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Brucealanevans

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Everything posted by Brucealanevans

  1. Thanks for all the opinions. Have a table saw for all ripping. Won't be dotting anything more than 3/8. Limited space too. I think the Proxxon 115 will work for me.
  2. More expensive tho, and some of the work I want to do has sharper curves Think I'll go with the Proxxon micro. Thanks
  3. I'm in the US. Went to Lowes today and they only had one scroll saw which was too big. The $500 was absolute top for highest quality. Would prefer to spend much less but needs to be a clear upgrade or I'll get by with the micromark saw as long as it lasts if it will cut the .5 cm holly when I start my Granado build.
  4. Hi all I have read all the posts about scroll saws, band saws, etc. I have a rather specific set of requirements and would like some advice and directions from owners. I will be cutting some pieces for my next build from holly for the bow pieces, and my micromark microliux mini scroll saw isn't up to the job. I also don't like that it doesn't have a vacuum port or blade dust blower. Looking for a replacement that is more capable and higher quality. . I have a Byrnes table saw so no need for ripping or straight cuts. Would like it to have vacuum port but not a deal-breaker. Unli
  5. Bob I believe I'm going to do this ship next. I love the look of the holly below the wales. Can you tell me how much holly you needed for that? How many strips? Did you rip them from 1mm sheets, from 5mm sheets, or buy milled strips. Haven't used custom lumber (or in fact anything but basswood) before. Bruce
  6. Thanks much I find the details draw my eyes - it's what got me going on this hobby to begin with. My wife, who is a (typical) surgeon, says she'd never put up with the fiddly bits. Horses for courses I guess. (She has other strengths!)
  7. I'm going to do the whaleboats after I finish the running rigging. The amount of equipment to include I each isn't clear to me. Mast/sail and oars for sure, but I don't think the line tubs, pointy things , and so on were put into the boats until they were getting ready to launch. Anyone know? Maybe I'll have one partially lowered and fully equipped.
  8. Gone on a family trip for a while, and I always have trouble motivating myself to beaver away on a repetitive job - in this case building the whaleboat stations as I finish off the standing rigging and prepare for the running rigging. I finished the 3 portside stations. I now - but not earlier - appreciate the precision with which the positional interplay of the channels, deadeyes/chainplates, shelter platform supports, and the components of the whaleboat stations need to be carefully worked out very early on. Because of even minor variances, I have had more than a little trouble with the
  9. OK, so the whaleboat stations are a lot more work than I was anticipating. I've finished the aft port station, and have the approach figured out, so hopefully the rest will go more quickly. The cut-outs, painting, and crane construction are all done for the other 2 port stations. I've used black laser cut rigging hooks from Syren for the boat hooks. Drilling 2 sets of 3 adjacent holes in the 1/8" ends of the davits to simulate 3 sheaves was fun. The hinges for the cranes were done with 2 eyebolts in the crane edge and 2 right angle steel wire "pintles" in the lashing posts, with more stee
  10. Minor sidestep to add the foot ropes and netting to the bowsprit. The foot ropes (at least the stirrups) should have been added prior to all the other rigging that gets in the way. I had to use steel wire for the stirrups for ease of mounting thru all the existing rigging. Looks ok except for the size of the "eye". Now work on the davits.
  11. Big day - finished the standing rigging on the Morgan. Not perfect, learned as I went along. Put the furled jibs (decided to skip the fore staysails) on as they fasten by rings to the foremast stays. Three tools illustrated. The scissors is expensive but great: cuts any line no matter how fine, and so close to the knot as your trembling hands can manage. I like the reach it gives too. I've tried a number of scissors including the supposed operative spring scissors - all of them frequently push the line at an angle between the blades, especially with a fine line. I tried a very good nail
  12. I'm so taken with this I've acquired the Caldecraft Grenado and the AOTS book and added it to my "to do" shelf. Retired now and finishing the standing rigging on my Morgan and thinking about the next build - Grenado? Confederacy? Gunboat Philadelphia ? Hope I'm around long enough to do them all. (And I have my eye on Chuck's royal barge ) Your build has been an inspiration and challenge to my gradually increasing but "miles to go" abilities. So many boats, so little time and display space. Congrats - she looks great!
  13. Yes, I have those and use them - I have found them heavy enough to sag some lines, and I have to get my fingers right next to the place to be clamped and they require significant force to open. They have a place and I use them alot, but I've found these electrical clips better for holding doubled-back rigging lines taut while tying them off, and easier to place. A matter of preference, obviously. I'm glad to have found them.
  14. 1+ on these. "Electrical test clips"I bought a small collection and they work great! Very light so don't cause the line to sag. Hold very strongly. With the pointy tips great for reaching into complex or hard to reach confined spaces since the actuator is remote. Model shops should sell these! Absolutely the perfect tool for this use. Just what I wanted and needed. Great to have this forum to get thoughtful answers to questions like this.
  15. Thanks If I finish the Morgan by the end of the year I think I will take on the Confederacy. It's calling to me from its box, pointing out that it won't need a huge (as in high) case like the table-case on its way here for the Morgan.
  16. As I work on the rigging on my C W Morgan build, I find I would like to be able to clip 2 lines together preparatory to seizing them. For instance , running a stay through an eyebolt and clipping it back on itself to hold the tension while tying the initial hitch for seizing. All of the "mini clips" I have are too big and heavy and cause the line to sag losing tension. Without three hands it's difficult at best. Does anyone know of truly mini mini clips, or have a technique to suggest?
  17. One thing I continuously learn is that despite our best intentions our eyes are constantly drawn to the things that can (should) have been done better. Note the most aft shroud/deadeye on the mainmast above that was too close to the forward "roof" support to line up without twisting, as just one example. Also a hurried and to my current standard not acceptable job of mounting the rudder and its hinges and supports. I just hope with each subsequent build, if I'm around long enough, to build to a higher and higher standard - I'm comfortable just competing with myself rather that some of the tru
  18. I just finished the ratboards for the first level of the masts. Dozens of boards and hundreds of knots. A tedious job I had to break up to an hour or so a day, so took a long time. I also inexplicably installed the main shroud ratboards on one side with the "free" shroud aft rather than forward - of course I didn't notice until I was putting the LAST on one. After some bad words, I had a long job picking off the securely knotted and glued ratboards without ruining the shrouds which would have been VERY difficult to replace. At any rate finally done. Looks OK but looking at the close up pictur
  19. Several days of work to produce the bits of the blubber tackle and mount/rig it all. Anyone building this model is strongly advised to get high quality blocks for this bit, especially the two large double blocks that hold the hooks. It's front and center when you look at her, so it should look its best. I used Syren Shipyard block sets from Chuck - they look great! Thanks for the "likes" (I know the anchor chains and the blubber tackle lines shouldn't both be hooked up to the windlass at the same time, but I took the liberty for visual effect anyway!)
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