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RGL

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Everything posted by RGL

  1. Apparently so, the conversion apparently cost $300k so I expect that it wasn’t worth it. Im pretty happy with the Hull now, grunge and rust.
  2. About all I’ll get done today, the cargo hold covers.
  3. So the metal latticework I painted upside down because the flat bits on top will seat the flight deck, but it means the whole tiny needs a respray.
  4. So lots of tape to pull off, but the superstructure and upper hull base coat done, needs filters, washes then weathering.
  5. Masking time, I spent the day priming everything done so far, then giving the deck a dark grey and the tops of all the superstructures.
  6. Another overspray of grey then matte, I’m actually quite happy with it.
  7. So another layer of green oil wash, still really shiny, will really attack it tomorrow. I’ll pulled off the masking tape to attack the boot strap as well. Oh, it’s too green?
  8. I’ve evened up the sponge work and then a tan/grey overspray, then a green overspray. I need a bit more work yet.
  9. Alge part 1, mr Surfacer 1000 patted on with sponge. I reckon if I let this dry then do a few more layers I’ll get there .
  10. And a light coat of pink to represent faded red paint
  11. Next step using some Matt raw sienna from Lifecolour (which just does not agree with my airbrush). now to fade it
  12. Just found this, great reference photo to show how big the propellers are, the positions of the depth charge racks and the smoke pots.
  13. Boot strap done, base red coat, i intend to let this sit for a while (OK I’m back to work), then paint it up properly as a faded hull then take to grunging it up. I imagine as this ship in the South Pacific, and particularly the warm bath that is Darwin harbour her lower hull would be quite a mess.
  14. I went straight to first class and got a Harder and Steenbeck then rang up @BANYAN who talked me through how to use it. I can’t imagine not using one now, but the tamiya primer mixed with lacquer thinner is just the best thing ever for PE.
  15. Thanks but it’s pretty simple stuff, i won’t put people off, it’s quite easy so far. That’s not me being a smart ****, it goes together like any other plastic kit. I first timer Could do this .
  16. So that’s the latticework done up for dryfit. Little bit warped but will glue down ok. no comparison to the plastic is there!
  17. I think it’s amazing. You have to be an artist to do the CAD regardless so you can’t just print it either. . I think whilst it is an evolution of the hobby it does not change the skills required for the woodworking class or plastic kits. I’m really enjoying this build / Print!
  18. The Cv-1 upgrade has it (you can basically just use that set for the CV-3). The Eduard set covers off on some railings and the nets and stanchions for the flight deck with are so much better that the Trumpy stuff.
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