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Everything posted by RGL
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These photos show the throwers and storage stands. In 1945 the lantern radar at the spotlight pedestal was removed, the two single 2 pounders where the second of the triple torpedo tubes was removed and replaced by two Bofors single barrel AA guns. When I do the final build later this year I will do it here.
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So a bit of experimentation, a few thin lines of Red/Brown at the seams, then a run over of AK rust streaks then a few tiny drops of light rust. I’ll need a bit of alge next then a tiny tiny bit of salt
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Stairs, I bend the sides in first, then use the top of a scalpel to push the individual step out when I’m holding it between my fingers.
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Thanks guys. the tamiya thinner I have been using for smoothing the Tamiya putty to fill the massive gaps in the plastic structures. I just dip the finger in and smooth it across the damo putty to make a much smoother finish that does not need much (if any sanding).
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Moving along, there is a big centre superstructure that will house or base most weapons etc, so this is just the base. So much more detail I need to add even to the bits I’ve done but I’ll need to do them separately.
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There are no photos apart from a few on the Australian War memorial site. this configuration was done up for me by someone on an Australian navy group
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It’ll look very different when it’s finished
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Yes I’m aware of the 1/250. This one was $100 with the PE included so I grabbed it while I could
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It’s all about ease of painting, if I can dry fit it so it fits properly before painting I will so it is off ship. It’s easier to paint and work on a small piece than sticking it all together then painting. You just can get enough detail that way (well I can’t). If I get all the superstructures done without gluing them to the deck it allows them to be added when painted and then production line for the fittings and weapons.
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So good to see you back on Vendetta! I use 2 lamps, one on each side. Plus optivisor now. My suggestion for the railings is rip them off and just get a cheap generics set and paint them on the fret.
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I only learnt about that (annealing) last year!!!! Damn it would have saved me some grief. Good to see you back.
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So courtesy of Gerhard Koop, some of the final photos of Z 25 before she became The French destroyer Hoche
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I find rattle can, can loose detail, but an acrylic primer cones off PE when you mask it.
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Absolutely, you’d be better off with a clean slate. It’s only noticeable as a mold (and a very good one) from close up. You’ve got lots of PE, just like me you obviously don’t know when to stop. The best advice I can give you is use the Tamiya white primer through an airbrush on the PE as it sticks so much better
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