Jump to content

RGL

Members
  • Posts

    5,309
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RGL

  1. These photos show the throwers and storage stands. In 1945 the lantern radar at the spotlight pedestal was removed, the two single 2 pounders where the second of the triple torpedo tubes was removed and replaced by two Bofors single barrel AA guns. When I do the final build later this year I will do it here.
  2. So a bit of experimentation, a few thin lines of Red/Brown at the seams, then a run over of AK rust streaks then a few tiny drops of light rust. I’ll need a bit of alge next then a tiny tiny bit of salt
  3. Stairs, I bend the sides in first, then use the top of a scalpel to push the individual step out when I’m holding it between my fingers.
  4. Thanks guys. the tamiya thinner I have been using for smoothing the Tamiya putty to fill the massive gaps in the plastic structures. I just dip the finger in and smooth it across the damo putty to make a much smoother finish that does not need much (if any sanding).
  5. There is so much detail to go on this yet, this is now the main structures in dry fit
  6. Moving along, there is a big centre superstructure that will house or base most weapons etc, so this is just the base. So much more detail I need to add even to the bits I’ve done but I’ll need to do them separately.
  7. There are no photos apart from a few on the Australian War memorial site. this configuration was done up for me by someone on an Australian navy group
  8. Yes I’m aware of the 1/250. This one was $100 with the PE included so I grabbed it while I could
  9. It’s all about ease of painting, if I can dry fit it so it fits properly before painting I will so it is off ship. It’s easier to paint and work on a small piece than sticking it all together then painting. You just can get enough detail that way (well I can’t). If I get all the superstructures done without gluing them to the deck it allows them to be added when painted and then production line for the fittings and weapons.
  10. Bridge, there is a heap of detail to go but this lot will require painting first
  11. So good to see you back on Vendetta! I use 2 lamps, one on each side. Plus optivisor now. My suggestion for the railings is rip them off and just get a cheap generics set and paint them on the fret.
  12. I only learnt about that (annealing) last year!!!! Damn it would have saved me some grief. Good to see you back.
  13. So courtesy of Gerhard Koop, some of the final photos of Z 25 before she became The French destroyer Hoche
  14. I find rattle can, can loose detail, but an acrylic primer cones off PE when you mask it.
  15. Absolutely, you’d be better off with a clean slate. It’s only noticeable as a mold (and a very good one) from close up. You’ve got lots of PE, just like me you obviously don’t know when to stop. The best advice I can give you is use the Tamiya white primer through an airbrush on the PE as it sticks so much better
×
×
  • Create New...