RGL

The Plan—
It’s important to plan ahead to avoid conflicts and problems as construction progresses.
Questions to be resolved:
Degree of attainable accuracy, I consulted the kit instructions, Ashey’s book, and the Warship Pictorial #43. A lot of computer research time is being logged.
Materials available, this dealt mostly with a choice of kit vs aftermarket/PE such as main battery barrels, plastic or brass.
My current skill level, I have practiced PE on some 1/200 40mm Bofors quads by Veterans. I also did a practice build on a 1/700 Iowa to get up to speed on plastic adhesives, procedures, etc. The airbrush got some work. The paint job will be pretty clean. Oil canning and weathering hopefully on the next build. The kit supplied 40mm quads (14) and 20mm Orlikons (34) are reasonable so will be used. PE Orlikons are a real challenge to fold.
The superstructure will be constructed as separate mini projects.
The plan calls for working from the centerline out. Two major considerations for that are the paint scheme and fragile PE pieces and railings. Because most of the horizontal surfaces are blue and the vertical surfaces are gray, I feel it would be easier to paint most of the horizontal surfaces first and mask those surfaces when the gray is sprayed. I will prime all with Vallejo white surface primer. Both Vallejo and Model Masters acrylics are in the paint locker.
Thanks to CapnMac82 for his paint color comments on RGL’s Fletcher DD. That will help on Alaska’s paint scheme.
 
Painted deck
glued to hull,
brass capstans are wrong,
the bigger ones should be inboard, fixed.                                Deck masked for first gray paint on gun tubs etc.

 
Forward superstructure building up. Hanger doors are     PE vents, ladders, etc. being added
Evergreen .5mm V-Groove & .3mm half round

Clay used to brace PE support while glue dries                 Forward mast (Infini) building up

More next time, edit because the post fell apart!!

Some light weathering and I’m finished. Parked up beside Yamato.
. 

Thanks all, signal Halyards done, I finally got smart and placed proper belaying points being bent railings 

Multiple tiny bits finally starting to come togeather. 44inch spotlights, 21 inch signal mamas (Northstar), replacements for the Pom Poms and single 20mms, ladders.....bottom half almost done, need to rig the signal ropes. 
 
A source of frustration is Pontos has designed the PE for the Prince of Wales not the KGV, which just throws things out a tad, and the extras are on the borderline of my level of competence because they are so small. One of Pontos phots shows a DF sticking out the front of the bridge but it’s not on the plans or the frets, so it’s not going to be there. 

Grunge part 1: using a wash for grey ships to bring out the ringols and panel lines. 
 
Streaking grime next. I inserted a video by mistake but it appears to have worked! 




9E70AB2A-A8D4-47EB-87A8-9E6AA59B0E4C.MOV

Starboard side done. 
 
Don’t panic Cog, I’ll do some more dusting at the end. 

If I was going to do a Huge Submarine like Yves, is probably use chipping fluids. The difficulty with the camo scheme is not destroying it. 
 
This US Carrier shows how grubby they get at sea, 
 
 

Yves, when I get to the top of the boat I’ll get to the Cats etc as I’ve been saving up some images too, but thank you. 
 
Mr Coyle, my posit was no Russia and No USA in this scenario. I understand that the Nazi’s could never have won since they kicked off Barbarossa. The impact on Enigma’s loss  on the Uboat war was devastating on Germany. 
 
I framed the scenario in such a way they could have an impact and it’s the only viable usage of them. The WW2 photos of convoys of aircraft carriers really do show what the outcome could only be. If the Soviets did not stop at Berlin........
 
Harley, apparently enamel for paint was in short supply and a big tall ship like would be near impossible to paint at sea. 

Yves, when I get to the top of the boat I’ll get to the Cats etc as I’ve been saving up some images too, but thank you. 
 
Mr Coyle, my posit was no Russia and No USA in this scenario. I understand that the Nazi’s could never have won since they kicked off Barbarossa. The impact on Enigma’s loss  on the Uboat war was devastating on Germany. 
 
I framed the scenario in such a way they could have an impact and it’s the only viable usage of them. The WW2 photos of convoys of aircraft carriers really do show what the outcome could only be. If the Soviets did not stop at Berlin........
 
Harley, apparently enamel for paint was in short supply and a big tall ship like would be near impossible to paint at sea. 

If I was going to do a Huge Submarine like Yves, is probably use chipping fluids. The difficulty with the camo scheme is not destroying it. 
 
This US Carrier shows how grubby they get at sea, 
 
 

Basically look at photos of real ships to look for rust points, and see how it flows down the hull. As the side of this hull is so large I can’t imagine upkeep at sea would be easy. 
 
Pretty much a process of sponging on some black or using a brush , then dark rust then light rust. 

Yves, read post #1

Starboard side done. 
 
Don’t panic Cog, I’ll do some more dusting at the end. 

So Grunging part 3; Rust. Using Schwartzbraun as a base layer, then dark rust then light rust. 
 
That’ll do 
553A60D1-619B-47BB-A428-7BF6A868DA42.MOV

Basically look at photos of real ships to look for rust points, and see how it flows down the hull. As the side of this hull is so large I can’t imagine upkeep at sea would be easy. 
 
Pretty much a process of sponging on some black or using a brush , then dark rust then light rust. 

Starboard side done. 
 
Don’t panic Cog, I’ll do some more dusting at the end. 

Grunging part 2, streaking grime from every porthole and edge, I used salt from the portholes painted navy. Rust is next



433DB6A7-B6E4-444C-8F40-440EED0A8397.MOV

Grunge part 1: using a wash for grey ships to bring out the ringols and panel lines. 
 
Streaking grime next. I inserted a video by mistake but it appears to have worked! 




9E70AB2A-A8D4-47EB-87A8-9E6AA59B0E4C.MOV

Now to tone and highlight, using AK Kriegsmarine filter. 
 
This stuff is incredibly strong so it needs a lot of diluting but it works well bringing out highlights. If you use it strait out of the bottle it splotches. 

I intend to do some pin washes next then some dry brushing to bring out the panels and ringols. 

Glad to have you heard mate. 

Glad to have you heard mate. 

The lovely thing about this model is you just can’t hide your mistakes under paint like I do.  As a builders model it’s fantastic. 

The lovely thing about this model is you just can’t hide your mistakes under paint like I do.  As a builders model it’s fantastic. 

And off to the digital graveyard 

Now some comparisons