Robin Lous

I rather call it shading instead of weathering and I think it looks really good. The details show nicely and that's where this is good for.
 
Weathering on the other hand...paint damage, rust, rust streaks, dirt, smoke, grime...that's a very tough job to get it right.
More often then not it ruins an otherwise fantastic build.
 
Imho...you do fine! 
 
Robin 

Stateroom level done now.  What you see isn't glued down yet, but even when it is, there will be more gaps where the sides meet the deck than I'd like.  Fortunately, all of that will be pretty much hidden by the railing..
 
The instructions say to mount the compartment and then install doors and windows, but I did the doors and windows before mounting, and I think it would be lots more trouble to do it the other way.
 
The grating shown isn't varnished yet (I'll do it when I break out the varnish again), but I didn't paint it.  I have that same grating in another AL boat (Sanson Tug) and it varnishes to a nice brown.
 
Regards,
David

Here is my first attempt to the extra piece of the anchor system. Thoughts?

Deck furniture completed. They are ready to be primed and painted

Nice work Robin.
 
The untreated walnut is very realistic.
And, after treatment with oil or varnish it becomes indeed a red / dark brown color.
 
Most finds of remains of ships from this period have rectangular gun ports.
Reason : The greater the height of the gun port, the higher the elevation angle that the cannon can have.

lol guys...yeah, it was one of those fancy "all the way" dinners.
We do that a couple of times per year, more and we will go bankrupt.
 
@bearegalleon Yes, I'm well aware the Duyfken replica is a pretty looking ship without being overly accurate and it reminds me of English Elizabethan era ships.
The upper herringbone patern reaches to three fifth of the height of the stern. The cabin windows and the stern decoration on top are the remaining two fifth.
So it's not completely like the print you showed, but the resemblance is still remarkable. 
I'll fill the hull near the stern with balsa also, that's why I have to do the stern now, so I can finish the balsa filling.
 
@Old Collingwood The walnut is untreated plain...walnut. I also like the grey hue...it indeed looks like weathered wood.
I also like the colour diversity of this wood. From grey to very dark brown. Walnut is dense (hard?) wood, not easy to cut with a knife, but you can sand, saw and file sharp edges. The quality of the wood supplied in the kit is superb.
I did sand each plank with 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper...that's close to polishing. When you varnish walnut, the grey will become a rich dark brown.
I'm thinking of leaving it as it is...no varnish and certainly no staining.
For a deck I think it's a bit too dark though.
 
Before I can do the cabin wall, I need to do the deck planking, so that job will move forward. Manual #3.
 
More soon,
Robin 

lol guys...yeah, it was one of those fancy "all the way" dinners.
We do that a couple of times per year, more and we will go bankrupt.
 
@bearegalleon Yes, I'm well aware the Duyfken replica is a pretty looking ship without being overly accurate and it reminds me of English Elizabethan era ships.
The upper herringbone patern reaches to three fifth of the height of the stern. The cabin windows and the stern decoration on top are the remaining two fifth.
So it's not completely like the print you showed, but the resemblance is still remarkable. 
I'll fill the hull near the stern with balsa also, that's why I have to do the stern now, so I can finish the balsa filling.
 
@Old Collingwood The walnut is untreated plain...walnut. I also like the grey hue...it indeed looks like weathered wood.
I also like the colour diversity of this wood. From grey to very dark brown. Walnut is dense (hard?) wood, not easy to cut with a knife, but you can sand, saw and file sharp edges. The quality of the wood supplied in the kit is superb.
I did sand each plank with 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper...that's close to polishing. When you varnish walnut, the grey will become a rich dark brown.
I'm thinking of leaving it as it is...no varnish and certainly no staining.
For a deck I think it's a bit too dark though.
 
Before I can do the cabin wall, I need to do the deck planking, so that job will move forward. Manual #3.
 
More soon,
Robin 

Welcome to the secret brotherhood of oar nutters. 

lol guys...yeah, it was one of those fancy "all the way" dinners.
We do that a couple of times per year, more and we will go bankrupt.
 
@bearegalleon Yes, I'm well aware the Duyfken replica is a pretty looking ship without being overly accurate and it reminds me of English Elizabethan era ships.
The upper herringbone patern reaches to three fifth of the height of the stern. The cabin windows and the stern decoration on top are the remaining two fifth.
So it's not completely like the print you showed, but the resemblance is still remarkable. 
I'll fill the hull near the stern with balsa also, that's why I have to do the stern now, so I can finish the balsa filling.
 
@Old Collingwood The walnut is untreated plain...walnut. I also like the grey hue...it indeed looks like weathered wood.
I also like the colour diversity of this wood. From grey to very dark brown. Walnut is dense (hard?) wood, not easy to cut with a knife, but you can sand, saw and file sharp edges. The quality of the wood supplied in the kit is superb.
I did sand each plank with 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper...that's close to polishing. When you varnish walnut, the grey will become a rich dark brown.
I'm thinking of leaving it as it is...no varnish and certainly no staining.
For a deck I think it's a bit too dark though.
 
Before I can do the cabin wall, I need to do the deck planking, so that job will move forward. Manual #3.
 
More soon,
Robin 

Today i worked on ship part that will hold the steering oars, not quite sure what correct term for this part is... It is basically a place where i need to bend few planks, make... oh well, lets get to pictures..
 
Again, plan is not quite clear how to set this part up so it is on builder's discretion (and some help from some other building logs) how to make this part as appealing as possible. Here is my end result..
 

So how did i get here:
First, made decision to use a 2mm instead of 3mm dowels for a peace that hold two steering oars, tighten up with a rope. This has to go into ship so small hole was drilled on both sides. Hand drill for better depth control. 

First dry fit testing was OK. Then this dowel was measured, cut and sanded a bit on the bottom. 
 

Then one 2mm hole was hand drilled in plank that will be installed on dowel... It was kind of a tiny whole that has to be drilled in 3mm width plank. After few broken peaces, it was all done. A bit of a sanding was done to make a hole slightly bigger so the dowel will slide into without to much troubles. The last thing i need is a small hole, not adequate for a dowel... I know this might sound a bit weird..

 

Dry fitting, all looks OK.

Cut both dowels and install them on the ship.
 

Then i started to bend two planks. Give them an alcohol bath for several minutes and bend them to the shape. 


One plank installed.
 


And end results:

 
And both from the bird view:

Then i cut extras, sand and they were ready for a danish oil coat..
 

That should be all for today..
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday we had dinner guests, so we had to cook and entertain...

It was an enjoyable evening, but it limited my shipyard time. 
 
Yesterday and today I spend my time planking the stern...

A time consuming, but rewarding task. The horizontal planks are slightly curved, top section 45 degrees, bottom section 60 degrees.
And my second modification...the gun ports.
The manual and plan show 8 mm x 8 mm ports...glued on top of the planking.
The replica ship has rectangular gun ports there. I made the outside measurements 9 mm x 11 mm.
The lids will be 8 mm x 10 mm...flush with the planking and a small gap of 0,5 mm all around, so you can see they're there!
I'll also make the "rope holes" next to the gun ports from a 4 mm drilled open ebony dowel. Rounded edges.
 
The shipyard received new supplies today!

A wooden ship's boat to replace the unsuitable (and likely frowned upon) resin ship's boat I already have. The gratings and a supply of walnut.
 
Still busy with the stern...it's a painstaking job to work around the gun ports, but I did that to myself. 
Edit: Finished manual step #2

I now continue with the gun ports and the cabin wall.
 
More soon, slow but steady!
 
Robin 

Im loving the grey shade of your planks (is it natural or bleached)  it is just what I was hoping to achieve with my deck planks.   Really nice work.
 
OC.

Sunday we had dinner guests, so we had to cook and entertain...

It was an enjoyable evening, but it limited my shipyard time. 
 
Yesterday and today I spend my time planking the stern...

A time consuming, but rewarding task. The horizontal planks are slightly curved, top section 45 degrees, bottom section 60 degrees.
And my second modification...the gun ports.
The manual and plan show 8 mm x 8 mm ports...glued on top of the planking.
The replica ship has rectangular gun ports there. I made the outside measurements 9 mm x 11 mm.
The lids will be 8 mm x 10 mm...flush with the planking and a small gap of 0,5 mm all around, so you can see they're there!
I'll also make the "rope holes" next to the gun ports from a 4 mm drilled open ebony dowel. Rounded edges.
 
The shipyard received new supplies today!

A wooden ship's boat to replace the unsuitable (and likely frowned upon) resin ship's boat I already have. The gratings and a supply of walnut.
 
Still busy with the stern...it's a painstaking job to work around the gun ports, but I did that to myself. 
Edit: Finished manual step #2

I now continue with the gun ports and the cabin wall.
 
More soon, slow but steady!
 
Robin 

Sunday we had dinner guests, so we had to cook and entertain...

It was an enjoyable evening, but it limited my shipyard time. 
 
Yesterday and today I spend my time planking the stern...

A time consuming, but rewarding task. The horizontal planks are slightly curved, top section 45 degrees, bottom section 60 degrees.
And my second modification...the gun ports.
The manual and plan show 8 mm x 8 mm ports...glued on top of the planking.
The replica ship has rectangular gun ports there. I made the outside measurements 9 mm x 11 mm.
The lids will be 8 mm x 10 mm...flush with the planking and a small gap of 0,5 mm all around, so you can see they're there!
I'll also make the "rope holes" next to the gun ports from a 4 mm drilled open ebony dowel. Rounded edges.
 
The shipyard received new supplies today!

A wooden ship's boat to replace the unsuitable (and likely frowned upon) resin ship's boat I already have. The gratings and a supply of walnut.
 
Still busy with the stern...it's a painstaking job to work around the gun ports, but I did that to myself. 
Edit: Finished manual step #2

I now continue with the gun ports and the cabin wall.
 
More soon, slow but steady!
 
Robin 

The dark navy blue goes really well with the red brown hull. Nice!
 
Robin 

The dark navy blue goes really well with the red brown hull. Nice!
 
Robin 

Sunday we had dinner guests, so we had to cook and entertain...

It was an enjoyable evening, but it limited my shipyard time. 
 
Yesterday and today I spend my time planking the stern...

A time consuming, but rewarding task. The horizontal planks are slightly curved, top section 45 degrees, bottom section 60 degrees.
And my second modification...the gun ports.
The manual and plan show 8 mm x 8 mm ports...glued on top of the planking.
The replica ship has rectangular gun ports there. I made the outside measurements 9 mm x 11 mm.
The lids will be 8 mm x 10 mm...flush with the planking and a small gap of 0,5 mm all around, so you can see they're there!
I'll also make the "rope holes" next to the gun ports from a 4 mm drilled open ebony dowel. Rounded edges.
 
The shipyard received new supplies today!

A wooden ship's boat to replace the unsuitable (and likely frowned upon) resin ship's boat I already have. The gratings and a supply of walnut.
 
Still busy with the stern...it's a painstaking job to work around the gun ports, but I did that to myself. 
Edit: Finished manual step #2

I now continue with the gun ports and the cabin wall.
 
More soon, slow but steady!
 
Robin 

Sunday we had dinner guests, so we had to cook and entertain...

It was an enjoyable evening, but it limited my shipyard time. 
 
Yesterday and today I spend my time planking the stern...

A time consuming, but rewarding task. The horizontal planks are slightly curved, top section 45 degrees, bottom section 60 degrees.
And my second modification...the gun ports.
The manual and plan show 8 mm x 8 mm ports...glued on top of the planking.
The replica ship has rectangular gun ports there. I made the outside measurements 9 mm x 11 mm.
The lids will be 8 mm x 10 mm...flush with the planking and a small gap of 0,5 mm all around, so you can see they're there!
I'll also make the "rope holes" next to the gun ports from a 4 mm drilled open ebony dowel. Rounded edges.
 
The shipyard received new supplies today!

A wooden ship's boat to replace the unsuitable (and likely frowned upon) resin ship's boat I already have. The gratings and a supply of walnut.
 
Still busy with the stern...it's a painstaking job to work around the gun ports, but I did that to myself. 
Edit: Finished manual step #2

I now continue with the gun ports and the cabin wall.
 
More soon, slow but steady!
 
Robin 

oh boy wine does not a straight line make   ! 

Sunday we had dinner guests, so we had to cook and entertain...

It was an enjoyable evening, but it limited my shipyard time. 
 
Yesterday and today I spend my time planking the stern...

A time consuming, but rewarding task. The horizontal planks are slightly curved, top section 45 degrees, bottom section 60 degrees.
And my second modification...the gun ports.
The manual and plan show 8 mm x 8 mm ports...glued on top of the planking.
The replica ship has rectangular gun ports there. I made the outside measurements 9 mm x 11 mm.
The lids will be 8 mm x 10 mm...flush with the planking and a small gap of 0,5 mm all around, so you can see they're there!
I'll also make the "rope holes" next to the gun ports from a 4 mm drilled open ebony dowel. Rounded edges.
 
The shipyard received new supplies today!

A wooden ship's boat to replace the unsuitable (and likely frowned upon) resin ship's boat I already have. The gratings and a supply of walnut.
 
Still busy with the stern...it's a painstaking job to work around the gun ports, but I did that to myself. 
Edit: Finished manual step #2

I now continue with the gun ports and the cabin wall.
 
More soon, slow but steady!
 
Robin 

Thanks Hans and Steven!
 
I can't complete the fairing without adding the cabin wall and the stern, so I do them now...and do the balsa on the other side...on the side as well.
Manual stage #59 deals with the rudder hole and the gun ports, I think it's a good idea to do both at stage #2 already.
 
With it my first minor modifications.
I copy the larger hole seen on the replica.

On this photo covered with leather or fabric.
I have close up photo's also, but those I can't show, because of copyright.

Made the larger hole, lined the inside with walnut strips. The outside planks will cover the edges.
I'm now bending the slightly curved horizontal planks. Reminds me...I still need to buy a plank bender. 
 
More soon,
Robin 

I don't own one...well, I do, but when I use that one I'll reduce my poor little build to rubble in less then a second. 
Not a suitable hobby sander anyway and I can't use the disk sander for it either.
So all "hecho a mano" with files, sanding sticks and sandpaper.

Done some more...and in between I do some sanding and with it the fairing started also.
 

When I feel a section is (more or less) ready...I tape it, so I won't sand off too much there by mistake.
Some frowning from the Admiral now. I hope I can finish this before sanding balsa will be banned.
 
More soon,
 
Robin 

yep, in (old) Dutch that's the kolderstok...

Happens to be the brand name of the manufaturer of the kit.
 
Carl and Steve, you're right about possible shortcuts.
Call me stubborn, but since this is new to me I try to work as neat as possible.
I'm not yet ready for shortcuts.  When I get the hang of it I think I can speed this up.
One of the things I learned here is...don't rush. Besides, I need time to look at things I still have no clue about how to do it properly.
 
Robin 

Maybe I should get me a kit like this, if they deliver such wines with it  ...

Sunday we had dinner guests, so we had to cook and entertain...

It was an enjoyable evening, but it limited my shipyard time. 
 
Yesterday and today I spend my time planking the stern...

A time consuming, but rewarding task. The horizontal planks are slightly curved, top section 45 degrees, bottom section 60 degrees.
And my second modification...the gun ports.
The manual and plan show 8 mm x 8 mm ports...glued on top of the planking.
The replica ship has rectangular gun ports there. I made the outside measurements 9 mm x 11 mm.
The lids will be 8 mm x 10 mm...flush with the planking and a small gap of 0,5 mm all around, so you can see they're there!
I'll also make the "rope holes" next to the gun ports from a 4 mm drilled open ebony dowel. Rounded edges.
 
The shipyard received new supplies today!

A wooden ship's boat to replace the unsuitable (and likely frowned upon) resin ship's boat I already have. The gratings and a supply of walnut.
 
Still busy with the stern...it's a painstaking job to work around the gun ports, but I did that to myself. 
Edit: Finished manual step #2

I now continue with the gun ports and the cabin wall.
 
More soon, slow but steady!
 
Robin 

Hoi Robin,
Nice work !
I Hope you did not start treenailing after enjoying such fine Bourgundy & Bordeaux wines