aliluke
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aliluke got a reaction from Bill Hime in Pride of Baltimore 2 by Bill Hime - Model Shipways - 1:64 scale
Hi Bill
I'd be inclined to do the opposite of your approach. I'd lower the bulkheads by deepening the slot until their top edge is flush with the centre keel. If, on their lower edge, they are still too high above the bearding line I'd add shims to those edges until they all lined up. Test the shimming and fairing with a random plank and see how it flows. I think messing with the false keel is dangerous and getting the bulkheads to settle flush with it is as much about the outer planking as it is about the deck sitting properly. I had all of these issues on my AVS and never altered anything other than the bulkheads (and I had to alter them severely - shims and fairing).
That's my opinion - it is an interesting dilemma and I wonder what others think?
By the way, very nice lines on this ship - looking good.
Cheers
Alistair
P.S. I also add the keel and stem post before fixing the bulkheads in place. This allows this addition to be done on a flat surface and too be made very strong. Leave off the stern post until later. Others disagree with this, others agree with it...a coin toss and personal preference.
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aliluke reacted to Chuck in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Augie,
The planking is looking really good. One thing to watch is when you are ready to place the second layer of the wales (both of them) on top of the first layer. If your planking run isnt identical at the stern where the planks run off the hull, dont just follow that first layer with the wales. Make some adjustments on one side or the other so the wales are even port to starboard. Should they not be even it will cause you some problems when trying to get the quarter galleries built and the PE decorations on. The same is true at the bow when it comes time to make the headrails much later.
Try and measure down from the cap rail on both sides after taking the measurements from the plans. You have a bit of wiggle room there if you need to adjust them to make them even. Just giving you something else to worry about!!!! and I hope you find it helpful.
Chuck
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aliluke got a reaction from mtaylor in Pride of Baltimore 2 by Bill Hime - Model Shipways - 1:64 scale
Hi Bill
I'd be inclined to do the opposite of your approach. I'd lower the bulkheads by deepening the slot until their top edge is flush with the centre keel. If, on their lower edge, they are still too high above the bearding line I'd add shims to those edges until they all lined up. Test the shimming and fairing with a random plank and see how it flows. I think messing with the false keel is dangerous and getting the bulkheads to settle flush with it is as much about the outer planking as it is about the deck sitting properly. I had all of these issues on my AVS and never altered anything other than the bulkheads (and I had to alter them severely - shims and fairing).
That's my opinion - it is an interesting dilemma and I wonder what others think?
By the way, very nice lines on this ship - looking good.
Cheers
Alistair
P.S. I also add the keel and stem post before fixing the bulkheads in place. This allows this addition to be done on a flat surface and too be made very strong. Leave off the stern post until later. Others disagree with this, others agree with it...a coin toss and personal preference.
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aliluke got a reaction from Bill Hime in Pride of Baltimore 2 by Bill Hime - Model Shipways - 1:64 scale
Hi Bill
I agree with Lou in all respects. The plans are just plans. You can be very intuitive about the build around the planking. Get the planking flow right with respect to the frames you have and go for it. If the hull shape doesn't exactly match the plans; no one will know.The biggest lesson, that I still forget, is getting the relationship between the deck, wale and gun port sills right...but that is later. Good work on the keel flattening - you are underway and your woodworking skills make this one to watch.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from The Sailor in Mercury by The Sailor - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 - Russian 20 gun brig
Hi Richard
I look forward to this one unfolding as well. Good call on the plywood gun port pattern - mine, on the Fly, is still causing me grief well after the second planking is finished and I'll take your approach should I come across another one on a future build.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from BareHook in Armed Virginia Sloop by Rob Jones - Model Shipways - Scale 1: 48
Hi Rob
The whole stern area is perhaps the most tricky part of the AVS in my experience. The windows are tiny and very fragile but you need to use them as a template for the framing pieces. One small tip - after removing them from the billet, I separately labelled them in in small containers as it quickly becomes very difficult to tell the inboard windows from the outboard ones!
As all AVS builders will all so tell you, you really need to fair the frames up to the stern counter. If it not faired enough the planks will tend to snap as they bend up. I'm looking at your last photo with the filler - the frame forward of that needs to be heavily faired, much more so than you'd expect.
Look forward to more - a trip down memory lane.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from olliechristo in HM Colonial Cutter Mermaid by olliechristo - FINISHED - Modellers ShipYard -
Looking really good Ollie - you are on to it - the flow of the planks looks just right.
My preference is to fix the keel and stem well before the first planking is in place but I might be a rare voice for that opinion. Certainly I'd lay them before laying the second layer so that you have something to dress the second layer to, Leave off the stern post though until after the second layer is finished. It is very difficult to dress and sand that layer to the stern if the stern post is already in place. My opinion and many might disagree...
Cheers,
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from Richard50 in Mercury by The Sailor - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64 - Russian 20 gun brig
Hi Richard
I look forward to this one unfolding as well. Good call on the plywood gun port pattern - mine, on the Fly, is still causing me grief well after the second planking is finished and I'll take your approach should I come across another one on a future build.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from Brigg Fair in HM BOMB VESSEL GRANADO by DaveB - CALDERCRAFT - SCALE 1:64
Your progress is great Dave and the base board jig is a very cool.
For the mounting pedestals there is a simpler way...
- Recess the raised base of the pedestal into the mounting board and epoxy glue it in there. I got a wood joiner to do the recess in the base for me. The flare at the base of the pedestal ends up flush with the base board but you could set it higher.
- The recessed pedestal when epoxy glued in place on the base is very rigid - immovable.
- Epoxy glue the keel into the pedestal and then, when it is dry, reinforce the connection with a wood screw or just a nail (I used a nail with some more epoxy for luck).
Your ship can never, ever be removed from the base after this but it saves a whole lot of fussing around early on and it is extremely rigid. It also means you don't have to predict mounting positions. Plus I think the recessed pedestal is more elegant than a placed pedestal.
I lost all of my pictures of this method but here is one from my AVS log. You can see that the pedestal is recessed into the base board.
I'm looking forward to your future work on Granado - I'm tossing up whether this will be my next ship model but that is years away!
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from Bill Hime in Pride of Baltimore 2 by Bill Hime - Model Shipways - 1:64 scale
Hi Bill
If that false keel is still warped after it is joined you must flatten it. I had this problem and got the keel flattened by wetting it, heavily weighting it and drying it several times over. It finally flattened. DO NOT put the bulkheads onto a warped keel - it will cause you no end of problems later. I'm sure you know this.
Look forward to your build and the interesting timbers you are planning to incorporate into it. I used boxwood for my hull and it is a very nice timber to work with, so much better than walnut which is, comparatively, brittle and splinters more easily.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke reacted to KenW in Fair American by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale
I finished the planking the deck and drilled all the treenails. I decided to follow the color scheme of the Roberts Collection model; at least to a point. Chuck Passsaro has placed photos from his trip to Annapolis in the Gallery section under, “Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections.” I should go down to Annapolis myself since it isn't that far.
Next up is to plank the outer hull along with the wales.
You can get to Chuck’s photos from here:
‘http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/448-fair-american-rogers-collection-annapolis/’.
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aliluke reacted to hamilton in HMS Blandford by hamilton - FINISHED - from Corel HMS Greyhound - 1:100
Hello all:
First of all, for Ferit I have the photo of the port side fore lower shrouds and ratlines (first photo below) - hope this is what you're looking for.
The night before last I shaped, finished and outfitted the spritsail yard, and this evening I installed and began rigging it. I had hoped to add the clews and sheets as well, but I only managed to add the sling, the halliard, the lifts and braces. I also added jibboom guys and guy falls (as noted in Lees), but ended up removing them because I felt they made the model look too cluttered. I'm now cursing the absence of a fairleader block on the bowsprit - which Goodwin features, but which I didn't feel confident in making - now I'm not satisfied with the chaos of lines at the bow, and yet don't feel up for dismantling all my work.......I will live with it, I suppose.
Anyway, I'll hopefully have a chance of finishing the spritsail yard rigging tomorrow - from there I'll start the spars from the mizzen mast forward.....Enjoy!
hamilton
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aliluke got a reaction from lb0190 in Niagara by lb0190 - Model Shipways - 1/64
Hi Larry
I agree get that garboard plank in now. I usually install that plank and several rows above it much earlier than you have. Perhaps also shorten it at the bow so that it is parallel to the keel and doesn't rise up the stem at all. That will increase the space for subsequent planks. Definitely you'll need stealers, maybe more than are shown on your plans, and if you make them and the adjoining planks full width the gap at the stern should close quite quickly. The only other choice - which is harder - is to take off a few rows of planks at the bow and taper them further back along the hull to increase the rise of the planks at the stem. From the photos it appears the lowest rows of your planks are parallel to the keel or even turning down slightly when they should still be rising.
Although the above may not be heartening, I hope it helps.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke reacted to Chuck in Niagara by lb0190 - Model Shipways - 1/64
It is looking good. Just as the others mentioned you should shorten the length of the garboard quite a bit. Otherwise the remaining planks will need to be tapered too much along the stem. I show in red the approximate amount. I would suggest after the garboard plank is in place that you divide up the remaining space at each bulkhead so you can see just how the remaining planks will run and how much they need to taper. Use a tick strip at the widest point of the opening midship to determine how many planks you will need. Once you know how many planks will fit at that widest point you can mark the width of that number of planks at every bulkhead in the opening. This will show you exactly how the planks will run and how much they need to be tapered.
Im guessing you will probably need six more plank strakes to complete that side of the hull once the garboard is in position.
Chuck
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aliluke reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Thanks Alistair. I use yellow carpenters glue (Elmers) for my planking and it doesn't seem to stain and any residue can be sanded off.
When I've used CA for spot gluing on planking, it will soak the wood and leave some staining . Usually, it can be sanded to be almost unnoticeable, but in any case, I've found that a coat of Wipe-on Poly evens out the appearance and solves any problem. I've never lacquered the plank ends and have no idea what that would do.
Bob
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aliluke got a reaction from augie in Niagara by lb0190 - Model Shipways - 1/64
Hi Larry
I agree get that garboard plank in now. I usually install that plank and several rows above it much earlier than you have. Perhaps also shorten it at the bow so that it is parallel to the keel and doesn't rise up the stem at all. That will increase the space for subsequent planks. Definitely you'll need stealers, maybe more than are shown on your plans, and if you make them and the adjoining planks full width the gap at the stern should close quite quickly. The only other choice - which is harder - is to take off a few rows of planks at the bow and taper them further back along the hull to increase the rise of the planks at the stem. From the photos it appears the lowest rows of your planks are parallel to the keel or even turning down slightly when they should still be rising.
Although the above may not be heartening, I hope it helps.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
As Capt. Haddock might say - "Great snakes" (Snake) that is really good work. You are on the finishing straight to a fantastic model. I'll be looking and learning here for my next rig. Hats off to you.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke reacted to augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
I would like to apologize to the members of MSW for my somewhat abrupt behavior over the last day or so. In addition, I apologize to Chuck for any difficulties this may have caused. He and I have been in contact, via PM and I hope at some point he sees fit to return to MSW administration.
We are, in fact, of the same mind. This site exists for the purpose of model shipbuilding discussion while, at the same time, leaving room for a certain degree of so-called off topic comments essential to establishing personal relationships. Others may agree or not depending on their own outlook. But in my opinion we have long been tolerant of one another in order to have a vibrant, harmonious site. Somehow, lines were drawn and we became divided.
This is not why we came here.
I intend to return to 'active duty', welcoming any and all commentary to my logs with the proviso that we keep things somewhat more focused than in the past. I thank all those who intervened positively during this episode and hope that those who chose to leave will return to MSW.
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aliluke got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Jason - I reckon you are well on your way to exceeding my first go at rigging ten times. Your work looks great - perfect in fact. I don't know about Hypo glue but suggest a toothpick is the gentlest way to remove any excess glue. The toothpick doesn't sand or gouge but can remove stuff you don't want . I've found that little tidy ups are a constant and a constant battle. The further you get on in the build the more gentle you need to be with the fix.
That said - you are making a model that I'd aspire to. Brilliant work!
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from CiscoH in Armed Virginia Sloop by aliluke - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
Just a couple more...
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from CiscoH in Armed Virginia Sloop by aliluke - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48
This will be the last lot.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
I just had a look at my AVS Jason. As the lashing is on the underside of the bowsprit it is impossible to see it without a dental mirror. You'd also need a magnifying glass and that is at 1:48 scale. Not that I didn't try to get it right but I wouldn't die in a ditch over it.
Another little tip from that model - I found that using the Amati keel clamp (if you have one) to lock the masts and spars while working on them was a brilliant tool. I think there is a picture of that on my AVS log.
Good luck and I look forward to your results.
Cheers
Alistair
P.S. Yes the Amati keel clamp for working masts + bowsprit + the same type of lashing as you are doing is on my AVS log.
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aliluke got a reaction from kiwiron in HMB Endeavour by kiwiron - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:54
Hi Ron
I think 65mm is much too short. The AOTS for Endeavour at 1/96 has them at about 88mm which translates to 150mm, more or less, at 1:54. The rule of thumb is about 26 feet which equals about 145mm at 1:54. Somewhere in that region - 140mm to 150mm is right for your scale. I also reckon a 3 butt shift is better than a 4. The deck layout is actually really complex so given that the deck is a simulation a more intense shift suits better in my opinion. However the short plank lengths are much too intense.
Just my thoughts - looks good and I'll keep up with your build.
Cheers
Alistair
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aliluke got a reaction from Blue Ensign in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
I just had a look at my AVS Jason. As the lashing is on the underside of the bowsprit it is impossible to see it without a dental mirror. You'd also need a magnifying glass and that is at 1:48 scale. Not that I didn't try to get it right but I wouldn't die in a ditch over it.
Another little tip from that model - I found that using the Amati keel clamp (if you have one) to lock the masts and spars while working on them was a brilliant tool. I think there is a picture of that on my AVS log.
Good luck and I look forward to your results.
Cheers
Alistair
P.S. Yes the Amati keel clamp for working masts + bowsprit + the same type of lashing as you are doing is on my AVS log.
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aliluke got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
I'd vote for A as well - more by intuition than knowledge. I would have thought the lashing would only go between the eyes and not over the bowsprit (I can't even figure how that would work). Intuition again though but that is how I did it on my AVS.
Cheers
Alistair
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