aliluke

Superb!

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

pretty much done with the deck ,some small things to do and they get glued in place then it gets interesting😎
Im really happy with the foc'sle  partition,looks pretty good in my humble opinion 🤣! ,and I've started the guns ,still not sure if im going to do all the tackle yet or just the breeching rope, (issue is I had a bad knife accident a few years back that took out the radial artery and nerve at the base of my left index finger ,even with microsurgery and time for the nerve to regrow i dont have feeling at the top and inside of the finger nearest to the thumb..Right where you need to hold things for fine work ,made it interesting trimming and cutting small pieces when i got back to modelling).
It's going to be interesting when it's time to start the rigging😒
Richard
 

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

Hi Bob
Key point, you're enjoying yourself!!! That's all that counts! I enjoy your log for you having a laugh, at times, at yourself, and always look forward to your posts. 
 
You asked me to be free about pointing out errors - these are for future reference rather than change what is now:
- Your anchor stocks are the wrong way around. The tapered sides should face the flukes, the straight side should be on top. Yours are the other way around.
- The Amati anchors have the wood grain running in the wrong direction on the stocks. It should be along the stock, not up and down - which makes logical sense. An up and down grain is going to see the stock snap. Blue Ensign captures this       in his Pegasus log.
- Your wheel rig is incorrect and the rope size is better, to my eye, in photo "One" than the next. The right rope size is about 0.4 mm. I'm amazed that you re-rigged this as, blimey, that must of been hard.
 
Plus sides, and lots of them, your model all comes together and the details mesh. Your anchor cables are of fit size to my eyes and lots of people underestimate their scale. From TFFM, I reckon them at 1.4 mm.
 
If you're going full hog on rigging I urge you to look at Blue Ensign's log. There is a hell of lot of stuff going on around the main mast that is going to be really fiddly later but can addressed now to simplify.
 
Look it doesn't really matter, there are things you can improve and there is always someone out there who knows more than you do. I'm only halfway there and I get pulled up on things that I didn't know - planking widths on ship boats - who would know? Someone does. The trick is enjoying it and you are motoring through this and clearly enjoying it!
 

Fantastic - looks like it is made of bone.

Fantastic - looks like it is made of bone.

Post One hundred and eighteen
 
Thoughts about the Figure
 This seems a good time to check out the Figure.
 
The resin warrior version provided by Chris is a mini work of art, beautifully detailed and styled.

2998
We don’t know what Figure ‘Indy’ actually had, but the choice of a Bronze age Greek Warrior fits perfectly.
 
During the late 18thc it was practice to paint Figures in natural colours, rather garish looking in some cases.
I have been pondering how to finish the figure, and I’ve concerns that too bright a finish may clash with the more muted tones of my build.
 
I have several books on the subject, but contemporary ship models of this period with ‘painted’ figures are hard to find.
A lot of Navy board models are without figures, and for those that have them they are usually either gilded or varnished.
 
For ‘Indy’ I want to use more muted tones with reduced contrast between the shades.
How that will turn out I’ve no idea at this point, but I first need to wash and prime the figure.

3002

3006
I use Vallejo Surface primer which shows up the detail beautifully.
 
Before I start painting, I create a colour chart of the likely shades I will use.

3032
These are painted over the primer coat so I can determine the coverage required.

3038
Incidentally, these little lidded 3.5ml pots obtained from Amazon are ideal for paint mixing small quantities and keep it fresh for a long time.
I painted the model in life colours but aimed for a soft tone. Vallejo paints were used throughout.
 
This is the result.

3068

3071

3073

3074

3078
I think the colours tone in very well, and the figure sets off the model beautifully.
 
I am particularly pleased with the Bronze used on the metal work, and the Red for the cloak which has a dark wine colour.
The reinforced linen of the Pteruges (skirt) were painted with Dark sand, and the tassels in Ivory.
For skin tones I opted for Ochre brown with a spot of Burnt Umber added.
The shield is Hull Red with the embossed hub and rim in Bronze.
                                                                         
I had intended to apply washes and varnishes, but I’m now thinking I should quit while I’m ahead.
It is after all a figurehead on a ship not a real-life depiction as may be created for a specific model figure.
 
A pleasant diversion from recent activity, but back to the build now.
 
 
B.E.
15/12/2023
 

 

Head timbers actually fit my replacement stem ,basically slotted straight in with some minor clean up on the parts👍
 

You're one crazy guy. Fast as. I won't point out any mistakes or issues from here on because I just like that you are having fun and that's what it's all about...Manitoba - been there, Winnipeg at minus 15C - on Monday I go to Brisbane - looking at 35C, 90% humidity and I hate heat. Give me frozen streets. Rock on mate.

The Base
 
Happy Hoidays!
 
Decided on a Cherry Hardwood base with a light finish (essentially natural), to contrast with the green hull.  To determine the base length and width, measured the length and width of the model and added 3” to both, base is 12” wide by 36” long.
 
Had already a piece of Cherry milled lumber finished to 4/4 (1”), so cut it to the base dimensions.  Rubbed down the piece with 0000 steel wool.  As the base will be cased, it will not be touched, finished with Howard Feed and Wax, Beeswax and Orange Oil.  Flooded the surface, let absorb 20 minutes, wipe down, and repeat.  It’s also a quick way to finish wood.
 

 
 
Drilled two 1/4” holes in the base 12” apart.  Pedestals by Bluejacket with 3 1/2” #10 mounting screws.  Drilled out the pedestal bore slightly to accommodate the screws.  Stacked the base board on pieces of 2” x 6”, placed the model on blocks, with a couple of cradle blocks - so the beast doesn’t roll, the model is slightly higher than the pedestals.  Installed the mounting screws from below the base, through the pedestals and into the pre drilled holes in the hull.  Just before final tightening removed the blocks and rested the model on the pedestals.
 

 
Here she is.  I’ll take her out of the shop, while I build the case.  Once the case is done the base will be dropped into it.
 

 
 
 

You're one crazy guy. Fast as. I won't point out any mistakes or issues from here on because I just like that you are having fun and that's what it's all about...Manitoba - been there, Winnipeg at minus 15C - on Monday I go to Brisbane - looking at 35C, 90% humidity and I hate heat. Give me frozen streets. Rock on mate.

You're one crazy guy. Fast as. I won't point out any mistakes or issues from here on because I just like that you are having fun and that's what it's all about...Manitoba - been there, Winnipeg at minus 15C - on Monday I go to Brisbane - looking at 35C, 90% humidity and I hate heat. Give me frozen streets. Rock on mate.

You're one crazy guy. Fast as. I won't point out any mistakes or issues from here on because I just like that you are having fun and that's what it's all about...Manitoba - been there, Winnipeg at minus 15C - on Monday I go to Brisbane - looking at 35C, 90% humidity and I hate heat. Give me frozen streets. Rock on mate.

Add that Chris Watton designed it, And that's why it is a quality kit and why you should try his ship boats from Vanguard Models or anything else they make!

You're one crazy guy. Fast as. I won't point out any mistakes or issues from here on because I just like that you are having fun and that's what it's all about...Manitoba - been there, Winnipeg at minus 15C - on Monday I go to Brisbane - looking at 35C, 90% humidity and I hate heat. Give me frozen streets. Rock on mate.

Ah - okay. Maybe the instructions are different between the kits. For HMS Fly page 6 says Remove the exposed bulkhead tabs above deck level when 2nd planking is complete. Sand the remaining stub flush with the deck. There is a drawing showing this and it is done before you plank over the false deck. The next drawing shows no stubs above the planked deck. But perhaps, like Bob, you just paint the stubs black and the issue kind of disappears? It'd otherwise be very hard to correct and who's going to really notice?

No the instructions are fine - I'm effectively building the same kit - HMS Fly. Anyway, Bob, they kind of disappear now that you have painted them black. And good on you for fixing up the cannons.

Ah - okay. Maybe the instructions are different between the kits. For HMS Fly page 6 says Remove the exposed bulkhead tabs above deck level when 2nd planking is complete. Sand the remaining stub flush with the deck. There is a drawing showing this and it is done before you plank over the false deck. The next drawing shows no stubs above the planked deck. But perhaps, like Bob, you just paint the stubs black and the issue kind of disappears? It'd otherwise be very hard to correct and who's going to really notice?

No the instructions are fine - I'm effectively building the same kit - HMS Fly. Anyway, Bob, they kind of disappear now that you have painted them black. And good on you for fixing up the cannons.