garyshipwright

Just one more set guys and that should  bring the magazine up to speed.

Your very welcome Ron and thank you Joe. Here are some photo's of her keel, stem, stern post and deadwood along with her apron and building board. A couple of the photo's show the templates that were used to construct the parts and pieces.

another fitting:

Dear friends,
thank you very much for your posts, I appreciate your praise and recognition a lot.
Few days ago I finished  lanterns ( made of card, clay and foils):





 
 

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

One more update
 
the first canons in place for testing position
it´s not easy to hold the ropes in position
 
  
 
 
 
Have fun
 
 

Gallows Crosspiece
 
I've made and fitted the Gallows Crosspiece. This is used, not as a Gallows (they used a Yardarm for that ), but as the aft support for the Ship's Boat and spare spars etc. This pic was taken before a finish was applied.
 
I'm at a bit of a loss to see how the fore end of the boat and spars is supported. There is nothing in TFFM that I can find which is used as a fore support . Any suggestions?
 

 
I've also fitted the two half-curved entry steps to the waist which I'd made before I went on holidays.
 

 
A couple of progress pics of the decks. I've applied Minwax Wipe-on Poly to all the areas that I hadn't finished beforehand.
 

 

 
  Danny

That's about the only way I can see it working too John.
 
Thanks for the comment Grant .
 
I'm going back through Volume 2 to make sure I haven't forgotten anything - I skipped a few steps every now and then as I thought it easier or better to do some things "out of sequence".
 
I've made and fitted the Upper Capstan Pawls, which are the same as those for the Lower Capstan detailed earlier in the build.
 

 
  Danny

Hello again –
 
I got some time during the football games to write up the next installment.  I hope you enjoy it.
 
With the grating sheets made, I made the coamings.  My method here also relies on the table saw and uses no measuring with a ruler.  This time it is based on the specific grating to be framed.  I make the coaming to fit the grating rather than the other way around.  I get a much tighter fit that way.  
 
Here is a piece of grating that has been cut from a sheet.  The edges have been sanded flush and it has received a first finish coat to protect it from any glue stains.  It looks square, but it is slightly longer than it is wide.
 

 
As mentioned, the grating material is poplar.  For contrast I selected cherry for the coaming and cut stock 1/8” x ¼”.  Four pieces of coaming stock were cut longer than each side of the grating piece.  They will be joined with half lap joints at the corners.
 

 
The table saw blade height is set so cuts made from the top and bottom of the coaming stock just meet in the middle.
 

 
One end of each piece has a half lap cut into it.  The length does not matter as long as it is longer than the thickness of the coaming stock.  First, the shoulder was cut using the rip fence as a depth stop.
 

 
Then the lap was made by making multiple passes moving away from the fence to nibble away the unwanted wood.
 

 
A spacer strip was located that was wider but shallower than the lap that was cut.
 

 
Using the spacer and the grating piece the fence was set for the shorter sides.
 

 
A sacrificial stick supports the coaming piece as the shoulder for the second half lap is cut.
 

 
The coaming piece was turned around and the unwanted wood from the second lap was nibbled away.
 

 
The matching short piece was done, then the saw was reset and the longer pieces were done in the same manner.
 

 
Using the grating piece itself to hold the pieces square, they were test fit, adjusted as needed, assembled and glued.  When the glue was dry, support pieces were glued to the inside edges.  Doing only two sides is enough.  If you want the grating to be removable just make sure that the supports are glued only to the coaming.  Here I have glued the grating in place permanently. 
 

 
The corners were trimmed, the piece was turned over and sanded smooth, and all edges and corners were eased.  The bottom edges are left raw and will be sanded to the curve of the deck when installed.   The piece was finished with matte varnish.  
 

 
And here is the set of three for one of the QAR models.  In the insert the lap joint is clearly visible.  The joints were also treenailed for strength.   Two diagonal corners of each coaming were drilled but not filled.  During assembly longer treenails will go through them and into the deck for security.  A length of treenail stock is packed with the set ready for final assembly.
 

 
As you can tell from the brevity of the text, this all goes quite quickly with a some practice.  All of the work making the six hatches and gratings took only a little more than a day.  Doing the photographing and writing these build log entries took longer.
 
I hope that this was instructive and provides another technique to add to your tool box.
 
Be well
 
Dan
 

Been laid off for a bit. Christmas, outdoor work etc. and got back from the UK with a nasty chest infection...terrific so now drugged up, chest infection seemingly abating. The barky is now on it's base and the base is pretty well painted..bits of foam to be added....
I've also got the first sail up - hooray, but haven't included a shot yet as I've had to get help (thanks Weflack) about the run of it's sheets.....details, always more details. More tomorrow, all being well!
A tops'l

 
Rather useful having it on it's base as it creates a bit of a buffer zone...

 

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Hi all –
 
Here is the latest installment of the build log.  No pirate talk, just building - - -
 
Some work has been done on the hulls since the last build log, but not enough to show. Instead, the next of the independent subassemblies was completed.  These are the anchors.
 
Queen Anne’s Revenge carried four anchors of different sizes, all of which have been discovered.  They range from the largest, with a shank length of 13 foot 7 inch and a weight of 3,141 pounds to the smallest at only 8 feet and 642 pounds.  The others had shank lengths of 13 foot and 11 foot 4 inches. Here is the archeological drawing of one of them.
 
Image 1
 
Budriot has drawings of several sizes of anchor for Le Mercure, but the drawings are all identical other than size, and none quite fit the ones discovered.  I took his drawing and sized it up or down in Photoshop to make drawings that fit the sizes needed.
 
Image 2
 
An anchor is a fairly simple construct, with only a few parts:  the shank with its arms and the flukes pinned to the arms; the wooden crosspiece called the stock, and a metal ring through the shank above the crosspiece.  Here they all are for a pair of 11 foot anchors.
 
Image 3
 
You can see that they are in various stages of completion.  The wood used here is pear, throughout.  I did not cast the shank/arms because there were 4 pair of different sizes rather than 8 of the same size.  It would have taken longer to make 4 masters and then cast them.
 
The first piece to be shaped is the shank.  A piece of pear was cut on the Preac saw to a square cross section of the appropriate size and then cut to length.  The drawings show that it had a square head where it went through the crosspiece, then became round below the head, which widened and returned to square with rounded corners where it mated with the arm for the flukes at the throat.  A round tenon at the foot was secured through a hole in the arm piece.
I first milled the tenons on either end.  This is easily done while the wood is still square.  Here you can see the setup on the Preac.  The miter guage is used to keep the wood square to the blade and the fence is used as a depth stop. 
 
Image 4
 
The height of the blade is set by using an adjustable fitting that sits under the hinged blade holder.  It is a screw in a wider sleeve with a red plastic cap on the end of the screw.  The hole in the bottom of the sleeve conveniently fits around one of the bolt heads on the blade unit.  It is a cumbersome and fiddly arrangement, but I am used to it after 20 years.
 
Image 5
 
To cut the tenon I set the blade to the desired height, testing by making passes on a piece of scrap basswood.  I first cut the shoulders of the tenon, then nibbled away the rest of the wood using a wide blade.  The final pass is always sideways across the top of the blade to smooth the side of the tenon.
 
Image 6
 
The final result is a perfectly centered and square tenon on each end of the shank blank.  The tenon that will go through the fluke arm piece is narrower than the head tenon and will later be rounded by trimming the corners then twisting it through progressively smaller holes in a drill plate.
 
Image 6a
 
With the head tenon cut the square hole in the wooden crosspiece has to be cut to match.  This is possible because the stock is built up from two pieces.  Again using the Preac the blade was adjusted till the cut was exactly half the depth of the tenon.  I tested this by cutting grooves in two pieces of scrap that when mated allowed the tenon to fit smoothly but not too tightly.  You can see this in the upper part of the photo.  Below it is the first side of the stock with the tenon fit into the channel that was milled out.
 
Image 7
 
And here you can see how the two stock pieces fit together around the tenon.
 
Image 8
 
With the channels cut the side of one of the stock pieces is colored with black ink and the pieces are glued together and clamped using one of the shank pieces to locate and match the pieces.
 
Image 9
 
After the glued dried the drawing of the stock was cut from a printout of the sized drawing.  I used Scotch Spray Mount to temporarily attach it to the stock blank.  With the blank still having a square face the holes were drilled for the treenails and bolts that were used to hold the two halves of the stock together. (You may notice that this piece does not have a square hole for the shank.  I forgot to take a photo during construction, so this is a scrap piece made up later for the log).
 
Image 10
 
The stock was cut close to its profile on the band saw and then smoothed using a sanding drum in the drill press since I do not have a spindle sander.
 
Image 11
 
The rest of the construction is pretty straightforward.  Going back to the photo of the pieces, you can see that the sides of the stock were tapered as shown on the drawings and the treenails inserted and sanded smooth.  The shank was fitted to the arm piece and both were smoothed to shape and to fit together at the throat.  This was done with the tenon just friction fit in the arm piece. 
 
image 3 repeat
 
Once the throat joint was smooth the arm was removed and a step was cut into it for the heel of the fluke.  The flukes were cut from 0.025” thick brass sheet, ground to final shape, and then peened to a shallow dish form.  They were fitted to the arms and pinned through using iron wire which was clipped short and peened on both ends to rivet the fluke to the arm.
 
Image 12
 
The stock was given its four iron strapping bands and a coat of stain.  The final wood selected for the stock was beech, which looks remarkably like oak in this scale.  The shank was painted matte black and was fitted to the stock.  The six bolts at the center of the stock were made from iron wire cut a little proud of the surface and filed smooth but not flat.  The cut ends will age over time to a generic metallic look that will contrast with the look of the treenails.  The ring is made from brass rod that was wound round a dowel, clipped and flattened, then chemically blackened.  Here is the completed 13 foot pair.
 
Image 13
 
Until I built these anchors I had little idea how large they really were.  Compared to my scale figure the 13 ½ foot anchor is massive, and even the 8 foot one would have been a handful.  The entire set of four anchors weighed over 8,000 pounds.
 
Image 14
Image 15
 
I’m off to the NRG conference next week, so it may be a bit until my next posting.  Until then, let me know if you have any questions about my methods and/or my madness . . .
 
Dan

And of course the steersman: 

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 35 –Deadwood scores continued/stern timbers
 
Chiseling out the cant frame scores in place has gotten some comments, so I will show a couple more pictures of this.  In the first picture, a ¼” wide paring chisel is being used to pare out the third score forward after the outline had been scribed fairly deeply to prevent tear out.  
 

 
In this picture the chisel is being used with the bevel against the work so the bevel angle can be used to keep the paring cut vertical and controlled by the angle of the chisel.  The chisel is being lightly tapped with a small mallet.  This permits much better control of the cut than pushing the chisel and risking slippage and tear out.
 
In the next picture the chisel is being used to plunge cut and deepen the side line.
 

 
Once the depths along the boundaries of the score are sufficiently deepened, the center area can be pared and leveled out.  There will very likely be some additional light paring done when the cant frames are fitted.
 
In the next picture, all of the scores have been completed and the work on the stern framing has begun. 
 

 
The starboard stern timber is being fitted up in this picture.  The height at the top was measured from the drawing and transferred to the “clamped square”.  With the square positioned on the base drawing, the correct position of the timber can be fixed.  These timbers will be glued to the sternpost and bolted through.
 
In the next picture the port stern timber is being glued on.
 

 
The small height pencil mark on the clamped square can be seen in this picture.  The next picture shows both timbers installed – with the clamps cleared away.  All six starboard scores can also be seen in this picture.
 

 
The forward faces of both these stern timbers are beveled to match the angles aft of the aftermost cant frames.  Those frame pairs will butt against those faces when they are seated in the aftermost scores.  Then lots of bolts.
 
Assembly of those two cant frames is shown in the next picture.
 

 
There is quite a bit of work involved in these.  First, the lofting is more time consuming than for the square frames.  A lot of measurements were required for plotting the three curves involved in each cant pair.  Also, in these aft cants, scores for additional stern timbers and horizontal filling pieces were included on the patterns.  Following the pictured assembly step, the frames still need to be beveled, including the face bevel for the deadwood joint.  Then before installing, scores for the fillers and other stern pieces also need to be cut.  They are quite complex.  I am hoping they will fit together correctly.
 
Perhaps we shall see in the next parts.
 
 
Ed

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary

Håkan, if I told you where I found the time, there would be less for me!
 
Mini update ..... I finally released Blanche from the building board she has been bolted to for so long.
 

 
It was with considerable relief that I didn't see any sag or hogging. More relief was due to the fact the whole thing didn't spring apart ......
 
So to avoid breaking off all the tops, I built a little support from some polystyrene glued to some timber ....


 
Which will be clamped into my portable workbench
for external fairing. I quickly took it outside to create some dust and the arrangement worked well. Less pleasing was seeing how much I have to do, as my early woodwork leaves something to be desired .... this is going to take a while.
 
Still, it was nice to see the undersides after all this time.
 

She looks a bit like a beached whale....
 
 
Cheers
Rob
 

Ok we are back on steady seas. The oops has been corrected and onward we go!
 

here a small update
 
the Blocks are now finished to takle on the Canons
 

 
 
The side takel had to be made once again because the hook and grummet were too long.
Everything carefully re-open (2 hooks broken) and a new strops. But this time in the correct length