garyshipwright

Hi all - Some more done on Le Rochefort and thanks for all of the nice comments and likes.
 
I fitted the next plank down on the port side to frame the cut outs.  It was a bit tricky getting it around the stern as this plank is still 3mm x 10mm and its a very tight bend.  It also has to fit into the rabbet but I'm really pleased the way its turned out.
 

 

The bow was a lot easier to fit and I also placed the iron and wood nails as before
 

 

Next I marked out the cut outs on the port side - Don't laugh but I've been putting cutting them out for nearly two weeks as I just couldn't do it!!  Anyway I've done it now so no going back.  The reason for the small opening at the bow is because there is a small deck on the inside and the beams need somewhere to sit on the frames.
 

 

 

So the next job is to finish the ceiling which is going to take me a while as I need to plan it out first.  As soon as I have something to post I'll get it on here.
 
Cheers Mark

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Upper Capstan cont.
  Capstan Bars.
Bars are 54mm long but otherwise the same as the Lower Capstan Bars.
The inner end,from shoulder 1.99 tapers to 1.38. The outer (long) end also tapers to 1.38mm but is chamfered and rounded for most of its length. (lathe and sandpaper strips)
Although not shown, other images, including the 3D rendering, show a thin central cap on the upper surface of the capstan. This I added.
Also as per Lower Capstan has a pair of Capstan Pawls. 
These I made from wood (Previously for the LC, use some blacked copper.
I intend to fit the Drumhead and Bars at end of build- they are very vulnerable
 

here is the step by step for making the cathead supports.  These pieces are among the most difficult to make for any ship model.   This method may seem a bit unorthodox....but bear with me here and I will explain as best I can.  Ask a lot of questions!!!
 
The laser cut parts will get you only so far...about 80% of the way.   You will need to shape these and tweak them to get a really good fit.  But its leaps and bounds better than anything you will find on a kit as long as you take your time and dont rush through it.  Read the instructions several times.
 
Step one...A laser cut template from 1/32" thick wood is provided.  Temporarily glue this in position with just a few drops of glue or rubber cement.  Mark the side where you will have to remove the molding so your support will fit between them.  Cut the molding free with some sharp chisels.  NOTE....cut inside your lines and make the gaps smaller...dont make them too large.  You can always make them larger later as you test fit each piece.
 
The template is longer than you will need on both ends so you can cut it to fit your model so it fits.  Look at it from many angles to see if the curve is graceful and it runs well into the middle rail where it connects.  There should be a pleasing continuity from the template onto the middle rail.
 

Step 2...assemble the cathead support....NOTE, the entire span will be made of two lengths.  This portion of the support is just half and is directly under the cathead.  
 
There are several layers...the bottom is the longest.  It is 1/4" thick cedar.   On top of this glue two more shorter  layers of 1/4" thick cedar.  Then to finish the assembly...glue on the a final piece which is 5/32" thick boxwood.  It is super important to make sure you use the boxwood layer as the top layer.  This layer will show and its the tip or outboard end of the cathead support.  Four layers in total.  I said it was gonna get weird.   But just stick with me here.
 
There are templates in paper for this piece.   See them in the photo.  

Step 3....Glue the template onto the piece so it all fits nicely.  There is plenty of room.  I glued it on the outside only.  Use this as a guide to shape this piece.   Remove the heavy stuff with a sharp blade until you get close to the template and sand the rest.  This will get you 80% of the way to a good fit.

After shaping....below.  Dont over sand.  Just smooth out the sides.  Dont try and remove all the char as it doesnt matter.  You just want to have a smooth surface to add the outside layers in the next step.

Step 4....There are laser cut outside layers that are super thin.   These come in two pieces.  They are glued on both sides.  Do this neatly and get a nice clean joint between the two sections.  You may want to lightly sand the char from where the joint will be between these two pieces so it wont show when its all done.
 

It will look like this.   A few things to note...
 
Before gluing them on each side I rounded the edges of the support or chamfered them.   Then add the thin outer layers.   Sand them flush on all edges although NOT on the front fancy side where the friezes will go.  Similar to the cheeks we made you want to leave the edges standing proud on the front side to form a slight lip. see below.  I left it a little more pronounced until after the friezes are added and its all cleaned up.  
 
Also note the second length which will connect to it and the middle rail.   This is laser cut for you and also gets thin outside layers.  This is important because these two pieces will join together like the cheeks did with the hair brackets.  You will need to get a nce joint between them which wont be seen when these are glued together.

Step 5...this forward length is laser cut but needs shaping.  It has one curve cut into it but you need to shape the other side.  You need to sand the curve that fits against the hull.  Just like the cheeks above and below the hawse holes.   You have done this before.  See below.
 
Also note the angled forward end which needs to be sanded into it.  This end is what attaches to the middle rail.   I rounded off or chamfered the outside edges before adding the two thin layers.  All of these parts are cut extra long so you can shape and tweak to fit you model.   This is where is gets interesting.... 

You should have both halves at this point completed.....like this.   At least roughly done so we can test and tweak them on the model.  There are lots of angles here.

 
Step 6A....This is just a dry fit of both lengths trying to get a tight seem between both lengths.   First I added the cathead support...tI tweaked the top edge so it was at the proper angle to fit against the bottom of the cathead.   You will no doubt have to do this.  You will also have to tweak the shape that fits against the hull.  Dont sand away too much.  Do a little at a time and keep testing until it fits nicely and follows the path of your template.   Then temporarily glue it in position with a drop or two of glue.  
 
Step 6B....Do the same tweaking of the forward half so it sits flush against the hull.  But you also need to create a nice tight joint between the two halves so it looks seamless.   The angled forward end should fit snug against the middle rail.
 
Keep working both lengths until you get a pretty good fit....below.  See how it fits between the molding on the hull?
 
 
 

Step 7...now you can do some last minute tweaks and glue it all on the model.   I added the friezes after the both lengths were glued on the model.   I put the friezes on in two lengths.  It was just easier this way.   Then I sanded the edges of those outside layers a bit with 600 grit paper so the the beaded edge wasnt standing too proud of the friezes.  Overall I just did some touch up work.   I think I still need some more but this is about it as far as the method is concerned.  

There is NO easy way to create these.  This is not a plastic kit model.  But this technique can be adopted for scratch building.  This is indeed how I make these parts when I do a scratch built model.  I just translated it to laser cut parts.   Having said this,   because everyones models will be slightly different you will need to go slow and shape them for a best final fit.
 
And as always....ask a lot of questions.
 



 

Part 4

When I started building HMS Victory there was no Internet. All research had to be done through print media and involved years of building your own library. Centuries-old treasures lay in display cases in museums available only to visitors, and at that, only about 10 percent of their entire collection is on display. In 1994-95 along came the World Wide Web (www). That's what it was called. The term, Internet, did not exist yet. In its cave drawing days it was like a bad set of Encyclopedias, but it was a start. As Dr. Watson says, "After all Holmes, we are men of Science," and a giant network was born that expanded with light speed.

In 2014 I discovered the National Maritime Museum's website. http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collec...8;collectionReference=subject-90308;start=260 
Up to this point I was working in the blind as to what the actual details for the pre-1800 period of the ship.

I eagerly went to the ship models collection, which is the link above, and found two contemporary Victory models in her 1765+ configuration.
 
These models were not on display when I made multiple visits in 1988. The NMM is under an umbrella called the Royal Museums Greenwich or RMG. This is only one snowflake on the tip of the iceberg. The wonders of the Internet, and thanks to the staff of RMG, are showing us not only what is on display, but the other 90 percent as well. I finally found what I needed to complete the build I wanted. Original plan drawings are in a section too.

With new inspiration I started back on the build and what changes had to be made. The first and most obvious was the fore and main channels had to lowered to below the upper deck gunports. I used brass pins to hold these in place so it was a matter of relocating them and replacing the missing moldings in their previous locations.
 
Following: a series of before and after the changes.
 
You'll notice other areas of progress between the below photos. Next thing on the list was the beakhead bulkhead and round houses. I had used contemporary model photos of another three decker for reference and the dimensions and moldings were too high. So this was cut out and newly constructed. Again before and after photos. Changes include entry ports and additional fenders.
 
 
The last four photos are from 5-2016 to 5-2017.

Next, Part 5 will cover the stern galleries.
 

Part 3

One thing about building a ship model is, that no matter what stage it's in, it's cool to look at. In 2002 my father-in-law built an oak and lexan case for the ship which fit over the building cradle to protect it from dust. The addition of the removable case made the ship construction look more museum like. It was the catalyst that got me motivated again to work on the project.
 

Below are the rigging stations for each port and starboard gun sets. These are the middle deck 24 pounders. The lower gun 32's were done by the same method. I cut and installed the hanging knees, inner planking, and ring bolts. The beams were fitted but removed for installation of the guns in sets of four. After installation the middle deck area beams for that section and lodging knees were installed. And finally the gun port doors with hand fabricated brass hinges. Then on to the next set. By switching tasks I was able to keep my sanity and the progress was more rewarding. During this period of time the rudder, tiller with ropes for the helm were installed, and the chain pumps on the lower deck. The Galley stove and pantry were fabricated and installed too.

As a working artist most of my weekday times, with some exceptions, are spent painting aviation art. (I specialize in the First Air War of 1914-18.) So construction on Victory has been confined to weekends if I'm not building something else. After the finish of the middle deck framing and planking it was back to guns again. This time the 24 pounders.

Again I divided up the tasks and started on closing up the bow. The forward forecastle bulkhead and the top head rails set the tone. The head timbers and rails are probably the most complicated structure on the ship. You can just visualize them cutting through the enemy's line of battle.
 
The finished head rails and timbers really stoked the fires of my building frenzy.

As C. Nepean Longridge writes in his book, The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, "One can light one's pipe at the end of the day and rest assured that the job was done properly." So British! Still cracks me up.

Next: Part 4
The ship project gains momentum.
 

Part 2

Thanks to all that have started following my attempt at a build log and for your likes and comments.

Although most contemporary Admiralty models had no guns, I decided early on to add this level. If I didn't I might regret it later on. My early visions included the possibility of a fully rigged ship and so it would have to have sea going artillery. I seriously underestimated the scope of building a 100 gun ship of the line. The guns and tackle added a tremendous amount of hours and really tested my patience. I often tell my friends that in the time it has taken so far I could've built three frigates. But the other side of the coin would mean I wouldn't have a three decker, the most awesome war machine of its time.

From early 1993 to mid 1995 I had made the master 32 pound barrel on my lathe, made the RTV rubber molds, and started casting 30+barrels. Carriages were constructed with the cross pieces and trucks. The cheeks I scaled on my computer, saved to a floppy disk, and I had them laser cut out of 1/8" white Lexan. The completed assemblies can be viewed in the above photos. Starting amidships in 1995 six cannons have been rigged, have gunport doors, and the middle deck framing has been started. I had also decided to have the guns run out to starboard and the portside guns run in with ports closed or open for viewing, to show the lines of the ship better.

Each gun has three single blocks and three double blocks with corresponding ring bolts and lines. (And like an idiot I made the blocks). There's the breaching rope, etc. Now multiply by 100 and you can see the enormity of the task. Not saying it wasn't fun but I had to take breaks and go back to ship construction.

One photo  shows the mainmast stepped. All three lower masts were made to line up through each deck.

In July of 1995 I was relocated to Orlando, Florida for my work for 3 1/2 years. My wife and I decided to take the train first class with a sleeper compartment from LA's Union Station to Florida. I built a carry case with a clear lexan top and Victory made the trip safely in our compartment with us. Victory was laid up in Ordinary for over 6 years, due to other projects, before I got motivated to work on her again. Let's see...more guns.

In Part 3 we will jump into the 21st Century.

Well its been Twenty years since I purchase my Byrnes table saw. Brought one of his earlier one, when he first came out with them. Been happy with it every since. Felt like a kid waiting on Santa to bring my toy and put it under the tree. Of course it never did make it under the tree. 🤪 I did get a email from Jim saying that he was about ready to start mailing them out and not long after that the real boss sent me one saying it might be a couple of weeks out, and she was right.  I got a email from Donna, who is a outstanding Lady, letting me know that it was going to be a few week's longer before Jim  finally got them ready to be shipped out. Well lets say the next couple of week's were a lot like setting on pin's and needle's , and finally a big box arrived at the house.  It is a heck of a machine and has been the best investment in to the hobby.  Any way I saw Jim's new table top back in 2017, believe that when I noticed it, but wasn't till now July 2022, that I took my saw table top off and sent it back to Jim to be replaced with the bigger table top and it's outstanding, well worth the money and will get many years of use. Wish I had done this back in 2017 but some times a couple of months turns in to year's.  Its a outstanding  table top and not sure what else I can say and if you have the saw you know what and how good that machine really is. In fact all their machines are great. It really brings a lot more to the table and with the extra length one can put the sliding table on with out having to remove the fence, cut what you need, remove the sliding table  and go back to using you fence.  Its very easy to remove and replace the fence when using the sliding table before, but even better when you don't have to. Guess you can call me just a little on the lazy side. Donna was telling me about what they did to improve the table top  finish's which I have found to look nice but item's seem to slide easier on it.  Donna  said I was going to love the new top and she was 100 percent right. Of course didn't have the heart to tell her that I have been in love with that saw since I got it, hum maybe I did.🙄   If you thinking about replacing the table top then do it and if you can afford the saw get the one that has the 18 x 10 table top. Guarantee you will be a very very happy camper I am that's for sure. Another thing about Jim and Donna, great  great customer care and other then making outstanding machine, they really know how to pack them for shipping.  Gary

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Good morning and thank you all for the likes, you are too kind, I continue with the photos of the kitchen, the new base for the shrine and the oar stand.
Un saluto.
 
 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add  a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary 

Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much. 

Good morning and thank you all, good to see you again, I will continue with more photos.
Un Saluto.
 

Well its been Twenty years since I purchase my Byrnes table saw. Brought one of his earlier one, when he first came out with them. Been happy with it every since. Felt like a kid waiting on Santa to bring my toy and put it under the tree. Of course it never did make it under the tree. 🤪 I did get a email from Jim saying that he was about ready to start mailing them out and not long after that the real boss sent me one saying it might be a couple of weeks out, and she was right.  I got a email from Donna, who is a outstanding Lady, letting me know that it was going to be a few week's longer before Jim  finally got them ready to be shipped out. Well lets say the next couple of week's were a lot like setting on pin's and needle's , and finally a big box arrived at the house.  It is a heck of a machine and has been the best investment in to the hobby.  Any way I saw Jim's new table top back in 2017, believe that when I noticed it, but wasn't till now July 2022, that I took my saw table top off and sent it back to Jim to be replaced with the bigger table top and it's outstanding, well worth the money and will get many years of use. Wish I had done this back in 2017 but some times a couple of months turns in to year's.  Its a outstanding  table top and not sure what else I can say and if you have the saw you know what and how good that machine really is. In fact all their machines are great. It really brings a lot more to the table and with the extra length one can put the sliding table on with out having to remove the fence, cut what you need, remove the sliding table  and go back to using you fence.  Its very easy to remove and replace the fence when using the sliding table before, but even better when you don't have to. Guess you can call me just a little on the lazy side. Donna was telling me about what they did to improve the table top  finish's which I have found to look nice but item's seem to slide easier on it.  Donna  said I was going to love the new top and she was 100 percent right. Of course didn't have the heart to tell her that I have been in love with that saw since I got it, hum maybe I did.🙄   If you thinking about replacing the table top then do it and if you can afford the saw get the one that has the 18 x 10 table top. Guarantee you will be a very very happy camper I am that's for sure. Another thing about Jim and Donna, great  great customer care and other then making outstanding machine, they really know how to pack them for shipping.  Gary

Hello every one. I have a question and hope that you good folk's can help shed some light on this. I am trying to find this print of the Queen of 1769 in Arnold and Henry Kriegstein newest book which is a joy to read and looking at the model's in his book, Historic Ship Models of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries in the Kriegstein Collection. The photo is on page  245 of the Queen of 1769, a second rate which says that it is draft shown to King George 3rd in 1773. I have contacted the NMM for a number and maybe getting a copy but with out the plan number it a little on the hard side.  I did go through the plan site that Allan showed us but no Queen of 1769. I also have been looking through the NMM site for it but so far nothing. I also sent a email about it to seaforth publishing but nothing back from them yet. Any help would be great and most helpful. Thanks guys. Look forward in hearing from you. Gary