Hubac's Historian

The decorations on the lantern are completed, I added the remaining knees, completed the decorations above the galleries and currently working the Ensign staff. The final figures atop the taffrail will be added much later on.
 
Michael D.



 

Spring has taken over the last several weeks... planting, gardening, cleaning, staining, etc. Finally managed to (almost) finish the new wales. I studied the few Royal Duc drawings available (the premise being that it was a very slighter smaller sister ship that was launched before SR) and studied the sweep of the wales. And this is what I came up with after sanding off the old wales... the molded wales on the Heller model are all 4mm wide and mostly 1mm thick. The drawings (and Guy!) suggested that the bottom wales were wider/thicker than the middle wales, and they were wider/thicker than the top wales... and the spacings between the wales was different. The bottom wales are 4.2mm wide/1.5mm thick, the middle wales 4mm wide/1mm thick, and the top wales 3.2mm wide/0.75mm thick. It may seem sometimes that the spacing between the wales varies, but actully I maintained exact spacings alomg the length of the ship; I think the various curves and bends in the hull create a bit of an optical illusion. Oh - and the top two wales on the rear bulwark are paper! I can't attach the top wales on the bulwark until later in the process. You may notice that I removed the top sheer step on the rear bulwark and also sanded/scraped off all detail so that I can create my own.

 
I spaced the scarf joints about every 150 mm per the butt joints on the Heller model (except where they might land on a gun port opening). I found it easiest to make the individual wale planks, and then glued them together in one long strip. A long strip made it much easier to get the curves that I needed; a drop of glue was applied and I just went gun port by gun port to make sure the spacings were correct.

 

 
Now I can proceed to finish the anchor linings and the boat fenders. Also, I knew it was almost a certainty when I started down this path, but I am resolved to working on the quarter galleries so they follow the new sheer curves as the drawings show. I forgot where I got the circular gun port picture, but I found some brass rings that fit perfectly over the circular gun ports. And I will "bolt" the wales onto the hull using a pattern from the St. Phillpe monograph. The bottom wales will be bolted by the 0.03" diameter plastic rivet on the right, while the brass nail in the middle has a diameter of 0.02" and will bolt the middle wales. The top wales will be unbolted as they will be covered with "ses listons d'or" per Guy.

 

 
Finally, I actually found a use for my laser leveler! I bet a French carpenter would have paid a years salary for it... I used it to make sure the gun ports that I cut in were plumb as oppsoed to following the curve of the deck as some people have mentioned (Hubac's Historian, for example). I am also using it to mark on the wales where the "timber heads" that arise vertically to support the bulwark rails; I assume they are the top, visible pieces of the futtocks (vocabulary ?) and the vertical laser line will show me where to add my bolts to the wales, ala the St. Phillipe monograph (I hope that makes sense!). 

Dear friends, colleagues in hobby,( all said bellow - google translated -have fan ! :)))
I hasten to share joyful news! )) For me, at least for sure! The other day I painted the stands for this Galleon model,
the idea that I had a couple of years in my head, probably, finally got its practical embodiment so to speak ... I ordered the elements of the decor of the stand on the "shop of the masters"( there is site in Russia where we could get some artistic hand made things of all kind  , if we could say that),
I cut the excess a little, so that it would more or less fit into the concept "stand holders " for the Galleon model ... .. about the photo shoot - I shot Samsung on the phone, and the quality of the photos ... in my opinion, as if very not very much , if not worse, but my just "normal "camera "Nikon" is bent unfortunately - I can’t insert the batteries into it - it gets out that the wrong battery system !!! :, and there is no other alternative yet ... In addition to quality, also the background, is not homogeneity as it should be for good model representation? but for the moment this is all I have ...
Wish you all the best of the best!!!   
Kirill
 

Well, I can tell you that the central lantern that Batavia Werf constructed for the Provincien was large enough for a grown man to stand comfortably inside.  The Provincien carried five stern lanterns.
 
SOS has one large central lantern.  It does not seem implausible to me that maybe three people could be inside there at a time.

All of the woodwork is just beautifully executed.  Not a stray line to be found!

Happy Birthday, Marc!  I hope you and your family are well.

The mesh really adds to the lanterns.

That’s an interesting idea.

The mesh really adds to the lanterns.

The way I paint lanterns is to paint the fields of the windows yellow with white centers, to give the illusion that they're illuminated with light from the inside. Awesome job on the lanterns! 

Adding the diamond grid to the lantern really brought it to life!!, Aleene's clear gel tacky glue works very well for this, now on to the smaller lanterns. The ladder is just placed there for reference, but actually looks pretty good minus a landing.
 
Michael D.

 

 
 

Kirill I might add the same diamond grid to the lanterns over the existing color I have now and see what it looks like, but as far as opening up the panes?, probably not, yes the large lantern would be possible without much effort, but the gallery lanterns as molded are solid and would require too much effort so this was a compromise.
I still need to add the storied ladder, I bet it would hold 10 people after reading about it. The Vander Velde sketch showing the port side ladder leading to the port entry in intriguing also, I recall seeing only one modeller including this in their build.
 
Michael D.
 

I have always wondered if they put the ladder there specifically for that occasion, for the ladies benefit.

Good afternoon Michael !
It looks between good and very good !!! :)))
You know, there are miniature plastic nets  with rhomboid cells that can be borrowed for the manufacture of models lanterns
- such nets are used for packaging garlic in vegetable stores, or a mosquito net also often has suitable cells ... household stores could be checked.
I also saw on classic models such lanterns have an imitation of glass - black imitation glass with hand -drawn drawings of the framework inside like You presented now? I saw You used such net with diamond shaped cells in your smaller windovs? Or big lantern should have big glass panels?
All the best!!!
Kirill

The lantern is about 90% complete, some touch up and repairs still left to do, filled the gap in the deck and fabricated the knees. While not entirely pleased with the look of the lanterns panes, they look presentable, but I might try something else with later. 
 
Michael D.

All of the woodwork is just beautifully executed.  Not a stray line to be found!

Adding some detail to the lantern and will need to address the gap between the poop deck and taffrail/stern, something I should've caught earlier but oh well and prep the deck for an offset Ensign staff.
 
Michael D.

Thank you, for the gracious compliment's gentlemen. This first attempt in mocking up the rudder coat ended up being the final result, is it what It looked like in reality? who knows, I must say though it really adds a finished look for such a subtle detail. Once I had the tissue paper ready, I worked my around the perimeter using PVA letting each section dry before proceeding. I used a base of red brown and a black wash to achieve a darkened leather appearance. As always thanks for looking.
 
Michael D.

Gor-ge-ous!
 
Interesting thought on the rudder coat.  Might be able to simulate that with wrapping tissue and dilute white glue.  Would have to maybe create some kind of conforming pattern that fayed nicely into the stern counter.  Not really sure how to do it, really.

Good day Michael!
Looks Great!!!
Follow your build with great interest!
All The Best!!!
 
 

I love your paint work, especially with your overall detailing of the hull.  The basic kit is very drab with its bare hull; the hull is bereft of any planking detail.  Your addition of such detail, coupled with your excellent paintwork is truly making this into a serious model!  I cannot wait to see the finished product!
 
Bill

I've also had this problem to solve. I cut a blank, longer than the finished ellipse, and PVA glued it to a backing block. This reduced the chance of breakage cross-grain. I then very carefully scratch molded the section. After soaking the piece off the backing, I was able to cut the joints with the straight sections of the moldings.
 
If there are any 'tricks' to this, a really good piece of boxwood is needed and patience while running the molding along it.

Thank you very much. The tips are great. I don't know if the translation is accurate? But I get the main point. Or guessed. I will try to implement a new way of working with the scraper. 
What will work (or not) I will try to take pictures with my camera.
P.S. I have after eight years of life fell to the death of the brave my phone. I tried to take pictures with it in the workshop, as I didn't want to keep the camera in a dusty room. But now, along with the phone, the shots I took during the work are gone. So it will not be possible to show the latest changes in the form of gradual changes. There will be only those shots with the current state of the work process. 
In principle, it is not so upsetting. There was nothing new or very interesting in the work. More had to be redone. Several times we had to remove what worked and do it differently. It's even good that I didn't have time to show anything.
But with the arch I will try to shoot step by step. The situation was not so trivial. Perhaps someday it will be useful to look at it again and remember what methods I used to do it. It often happens that I forget myself. So detailed comics about the arch will be useful.
 

The modifications to the rudder are completed, the shackles are in place awaiting the chain, something in the 30 to 40 LPI should suffice for this scale and contemplating adding the rudder coat, overall happy with the result.
 
Michael D.

Starboard side of the gudgeons are completed, at this point I'm unsure if she carried chains or ropes for the rudder and their arraignment, I'm thinking chains and if so, I'll need to search for some super small scale chain. Cheers.
 
Michael D.