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mtbediz

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Everything posted by mtbediz

  1. mtbediz
    All fife rails are complete. At this stage I decided to make the canopies. While making the canopies I will solder the connection points. I will not be able to make the cube shaped elements in the connection points on the real ship in this scale. The canopy in the photo is a prototype I made to design how to do the job. I will not use it. Now I am working on a jig that will do this job properly.
  2. mtbediz
    Yes Peter, I exactly drilled them with a 1 mm diameter drill bit.
  3. mtbediz
    Thank you Phil. Pickle was a great rest stop for me after Essex.
  4. mtbediz
    I answered because I knew it would be difficult for you to find the answer you were looking for in my log. I didn't want you to get tired
  5. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg. Yes, the masts go under the gun deck and fit into slots in the false keel. You can see these slots in the MS kit plan. You can also see the mast holes in the gun deck in the photo.
  6. mtbediz
    Main fife rail completed. There is one more fife rail to be built for the mizzen.
  7. mtbediz
    Thank you Jon. I was very inspired by your work when I started building this model and I still benefit from it. I would be happy if I could help others too.
  8. mtbediz
    Fore fife rail completed.
  9. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg. I have a basic DB250 and a FD150 lathe. I don't have a PD250. I used the DB250 when I made the fife rail stanchions. You can work soft metals like brass, aluminum and copper with all three lathes. I bought the FD150 about two years ago and haven't had much use for it. The FD150 and PD250 are lathes that require a bit more skill. If you are thinking of buying a lathe, I would recommend getting the basic DB250 first. If I had my thoughts back then I would reconsider buying the FD150. They are quite expensive machines and I still don't know how much use I will get out of them. If I had to choose between the FD150 and the PD250 right now I would choose the PD250 because the FD150 is a very short lathe and a bit of a pain to work with.
  10. mtbediz
    The rigging of all the guns are complete and I started making the fife rails. First I fabricated ridding bitt knees. To make the stancions I shaped the 4x4 mm pear bar with a file on the lathe then I opened holes and channels to represent the sheaves.
  11. mtbediz
    If you used CA when gluing the carriage parts, you can try using pure acetone to separate them without damaging the parts. Pure acetone has the ability to dissolve dried CA. I have done this from time to time. But you should use pure acetone, that is, the diluted acetone that women use to remove nail polish does not work.
  12. mtbediz
    Thank you Greg. Now that I think about it, it would have been better if I had stained the blocks, but I just applied matte varnish.
  13. mtbediz
    Rigging of the carronades at the rear of the ship has been completed.
  14. mtbediz
    Yes, the waterways shown in the kit instructions are too wide, I made them narrower. By the way, I agree with Bthoe but it can be difficult to separate the parts you glued.
  15. mtbediz
    Thank you so much.
  16. mtbediz
    Absolutely beautiful work on the canopy frame Jon!
  17. mtbediz
    Rigging of the carronades on the spar deck continues. In the photos the tackle ropes look thicker than they are. I think this happens because the resolution of the photos is reduced when uploading photos to this site.
  18. mtbediz
    Thanks Greg. You spent bunch of money and bought a milling machine. You no longer need to purchase anything. We expect you to produce everything yourself. Enjoy your own work!
  19. mtbediz
    I would like to show how I produce these 3 mm blocks for those who are interested. I have shared this method before, but I wanted to share it again for friends who do not know. First, I turned the wooden dowel with a diameter of 3 mm into an ellipse bar with my milling machine. Again, using my milling machine, I drilled holes with a diameter of 0.6 mm on this elliptical rod and then cut slots to represent the pulleys. After these procedures, I separated the blocks from each other by cutting them with my circular saw. I got rid of the excess with my sanding machine and cut slots on both sides of the blocks with my milling machine.
  20. mtbediz
    Gun tackles will look like this, the smallest blocks I can make are this size. Now I need to make lots of blocks and hooks.
  21. mtbediz
    Thank you Greg. If I understand correctly what you mean; I prepare the gun tackles outside the ship. It remains only to attach them to the eyebolts on the carronades and bulwark.
  22. mtbediz
    All the guns on the spar deck are now in place. I'm now going to start making blocks for the gun tackles. Since the blocks will be quite small in size, a tough challenge awaits me. The blocks will be 3x2 mm in size, let's see if I can make it.
  23. mtbediz
    I think there's been a misunderstanding Peter. I was talking about the rings at the cascabel of the carronades, not the long guns. There shouldn't be rings at the long guns anyway. As far as I see, the carronades you bought from Czechoslovakia do not have those rings. I was wondering how you would add these rings to the carronades. By the way, I started preparing the long guns.
  24. mtbediz
    Thank you for the sketch Peter, what I did is almost the same combination as in sketch. In the photos below, you can see the long gun I prepared and the long gun on the real ship I used as reference.
  25. mtbediz
    The carronades look very nice, I'm just wondering how you would add the loops that the rope goes through.

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