leginseel

The second pump is in progress

I decided to rebuild the deck pumps. Because the pumps I've made before seem very simple (first picture)

Today I gave myself a big list of things to do including dentist, grocery shopping, 5 acres of grass to cut then finish with completing and installing the rudder. If successful I promised myself a bbq steak and a trip to the liqueur cabinet( trying to follow EJ's footsteps) Well steak is still the fridge yet but there have been a couple of trips to the infamous cabinet, all jobs completed!!!!! 
 I realise there is a little overkill with pictures on this post, I feel there is never too many pictures when it comes to the rigging aspect of a build so please bear with me.
 


 
 This what the task was for today. Top picture showing the rudder and the next picture showing the rigging for the tiller.

Pieces for the rudder, straps made from 3 mm copper strip
 

 
Still needs painting, this is showing the bottom bracket and bar mounted on hull the top bracket and bar is then mounted on the rudder. Receiving bracket is then mounted on hull at top and on rudder at the bottom. A much easier process, I love it!!
 
 The tiller being rigged with 4 mm double blocks. Seizing is done using Gutermann thread readily available, wide assortment of colours and measures approximately .18 mm
 
 
Blocks and rope for rudder, 4mm blocks .5 mm rope and eyebolts all kit supplied, used approx 50 mm of rope for each. It is the same set up for the tiller with the exception of the eyebolt, a hook is used instead.
 


 
Showing rigging of the tiller, the use of hooks helps so much. Here I am showing running the rope through the blocks before attaching the hook to eyebolt in bulwark.
 

 

 
I will adjust that block after I'm done here. The plans do not show any sort of belaying point so I am assuming  coils of rope will be needed below the tiller later on. I have read the rope was wrapped around the tiller first to allow the helmsman to make adjustments??????
 

 
This is what the ship's cat might see. 
 
You all Take Care,  
Thanks for stopping in. 
 
 
 

Well put!

Nigel - Thanks for joining in and welcome to the Trabakul build. You are far too gracious, I surely appreciate it
 
Jean-Pierre - Thank You for the nice compliment. I couldn't agree more with what you have said. As much as I love the looks of a "ship of war" building something a little different such as the Trabakul has it's benefits and beauties as well.

Fitted the upper gun deck.
 
 
Since I am putting in lights inside the middle gun deck I tried them on before closing with the upper gun deck.  Realised that from the outside, looking through the gun ports a light strip was showing coming underneath the dummy barrel strips, so I fitted some strips behind the dummy barrel strips to barrier the light. Also added some detail next to the inside of the entry ports that can show when the lights are on.

 
 
Beams in place

 
 
 
Fitted half the deck.  When I tried the deck as a whole peace you have to bend it so much to put it in that I still can’t believe it did not break in two.  You have to trim it and check in place so I decided it was not worth the risk so I split it in two halves with a Stanley knife.  Work was much easier like that.

 
 
 
Fitted the other half.  Where possible I used nails but where not possible I used supports to hold the deck in place until glue was dry.  On the beams I avoided using nails.

 
 
 
Just a few places where there were no beams and because I split it in two, some reinforcement was needed.  Glued a piece of thin plywood from underneath.

 
 
 
Deck ready in place

 
 
 
Looking through the entry ports.

 

 
 
 
Dry fitted one of the cannon carriages, fitted two piece of the deck planks underneath and checked if the cannons are centred in the gun ports.  They seem to be perfect.  There is also a way how you can fine tune the height position of the cannons.  When building the carriages, there is a piece called Quoin (165) which is fitted on the carriage just under the back of the cannon.  Don’t glue this, glue it when you are placing the carriages in place on the deck. By moving this quoin forward or backwards the cannon will tilt up or down.


 
Next step is fitting the gun deck inner bulwark gunport pattern.  From what I can see, to get the gun port openings on the inner pattern in line with those of the outer pattern,  a lot of trimming is needed on the lower edge of the inner pattern.  But that is no problem as it will be planked.  The problem would have been if the cannons were not the right height with the gun port opening on the outer pattern.
 
Robert
 
 
 
 

Nigel,
 
Thank you for your nice comment.  You are most welcome.
 
 
Michael,
 
Thank you for your nice comment as well.  Maybe they are a bit inflated but I try my best!!!!
 
Robert
 

Another update, moving slowly but will get there someday!!  I am using the walnut supplied with the kit and to fit the planks I am using a combination of spiling and edge bending.  There is no doubt about it, that spiling is the best way to go.  Since I made my calculations on 5mm planks in width and I am leaving a small gap in between, where the curvature is small, I am getting away with it with spiling, especially where the planks narrow more.  But there are places especially at the bow, that apart from spiling as much as  can I have to do a bit of edge bending as well.

 
The top part of the hull is going to be painted, and the lower part is not going to be copper plated, I am leaving it on wood.  I left a small gap in between planks which later on I will fill with black filler so that the individual planks will show more (stole Heinz's idea). They will not come out as much as the deck planking as with the filler the walnut will darken a bit too. The planks which on the photo are showing whole lengths are the once which will be covered again with the wales.


 

 


Can't wait to have the stern fascia and the quarter gallery finished to cover the mess of paint on them.  I had painted the inside all black, but after I glued everything in place and tried the lights, I thought that  they would look better wit the inside white, so I had to paint them through the windows. I also planked the floor of the side quarter galleries through the windows.
 
 

Had to go for a drop strake as the ends were going to be too narrow in this band.
 
 


 
Robert
 
 
 

some folks will use graph paper or draw lines on a paper to use as a backing,  when tying the ratlines.    I've seen others make a jig or template to gauge them.   the shrouds themselves can be slightly limp.......it's the back stays that do most of the work.   it's amazing how they are put together,  considering that the shrouds are adjustable.   we try so hard to keep the straight line for the ratlines,  but in real life,  if they were to be adjusted, the line would be offset by it.   it's best to keep the ratlines slightly limp........to make them taught in any way will distort the shrouds....it doesn't take much.
   I used to eyeball the dead eyes......but the last one I did convinced me that I needed to make a jig for them.   I made one......now to get back to the ship that I goofed up on.   it's compounded though,  since it fell on the floor a couple of times.......poor duck is gonna need a reno.
 
I still do other things by eye.........I find it quicker,  and my 'mind's eye' knows what I want   

Hi Popeye yeah think I'll keep the snake it seems rather a unique feature to me now that you have showed your like for it , as for the rat lines I love tying those things for some reason it sorta gives me a free evenings work where no brain power is required now getting the shroud line deadeye all the same height I find that frastrating it's a very very fine balance trying to leave a we bit to Allow for tension but not to much that there not level or leave to much and there to low I have tried every jig in the book for deadeye and ratline but have had no success so I try to eyeball both 

I'm glad that you don't feel like I'm critiquing in any way........it's not my nature    artistic licence is paramount in my book.   it just that I've seen other Bounty builds,  and the ratlines have been done closer together.   you've done a superb job with them,  and I didn't want it to come back to haunt you......especially near the finish where things would be in the way.   5 - 8 mm is good,  considering the scale.   are you going to keep the snake?   I can't recall seeing a build with it,  but you've done a super job with too.......hate to see you remove it. 

Popeye you have a very keen eye I think you are 100% right on the rat lines I knew there was something bugging me about them , I had went with billings suggested 10mm gap and the line I'm using is slightly smaller than the billings stuff I don't think that helped either ,don has suggested the 8 mm and I checked mine some even creep away to eleven mm in places so that 3mm difference could easily equate to six inches in the real world thanks for calling me out on this I played about a bit with them earlier to see if they will still move about which they actually can but if  I have any trouble with that I will redo them thanks 

Thank you friends for visiting my build log and for nice comments and for likes.
The pump has been stained  and i think it looks realistic.

Fabulous work Don, it was a real pleasure to read through your log - a master class in model shipbuilding.

Beautiful work as always Steve. I'm a good way behind you and your build has become my number 1 point of reference. 

Beautiful work as always Steve. I'm a good way behind you and your build has become my number 1 point of reference. 

Hi All, I've been busy with what seems small but time consuming stuff.  The heat here at the moment hasn't helped as we've been up around 44C (111F) for a few days now.  Hopefully this is coming down this week but it doesn't make me want to sit over a work bench!!
I made the tiller house a little while ago as per the kit instructions I didn't feel that it was good enough so I clad it with Mahogany and stained it Dark Oak and I think that it looks better.

These first two are as per the kit

Now after Cladding

Now after staining.  I'll give it a coat of Sanding Sealer before I glue it in place.
 
I've also made a start on the Rudder.
I need to tidy it up and fit the 'bolt' Heads and stain/paint as my next job.  I'm hoping to have it done and fitted before I go to England in a week or so.
 
 

Hi All, I've been busy with what seems small but time consuming stuff.  The heat here at the moment hasn't helped as we've been up around 44C (111F) for a few days now.  Hopefully this is coming down this week but it doesn't make me want to sit over a work bench!!
I made the tiller house a little while ago as per the kit instructions I didn't feel that it was good enough so I clad it with Mahogany and stained it Dark Oak and I think that it looks better.

These first two are as per the kit

Now after Cladding

Now after staining.  I'll give it a coat of Sanding Sealer before I glue it in place.
 
I've also made a start on the Rudder.
I need to tidy it up and fit the 'bolt' Heads and stain/paint as my next job.  I'm hoping to have it done and fitted before I go to England in a week or so.
 
 

I think I'm going to stop commenting from my iPod as it appears to repeat the whole post again including all the photos.  Has anyone any ideas how it can be stopped??
Sorry for clogging you up Steve.

Beautiful work as always Steve. I'm a good way behind you and your build has become my number 1 point of reference. 

Fabulous work Don, it was a real pleasure to read through your log - a master class in model shipbuilding.

Out in garage, cutting some spare hatch covers. I had a thought of maybe painting the hatch covers so I thought making some practice ones would be a good idea.

 
Covers and hatch got a total of six coats of spray on satin varathane


 
To attach the rope handles to the hatch covers I decided to use zip siezings. The rope I am using for the handles is .025 in. or .633 mm from Syren. The zip siezings are 1.3 mm i.d. and 1.77 mm o.d. and approx. 1.5 mm long

 
First step is to thread two siezings onto the line, after stiffening the end of the line with ca then cutting the end at an angle

 
Then run rope through the bottom and back down from the top. Then insert the end of the line though the two siezings

 
Flatten one side of an appropriate size of dowel to the proper height, in this case 3 mm, and adjust the rope around it.

 
When adjusted properly turn it over, glue and cut the ends off. In the macro picture it looks kind of bulky but in reality it looks good.

 
Finally here is how they look. Now 19 more to go

 
Have a Good Night

Good Morning All, Thanks to everyone for stopping in, for your likes and comments. This a new one for me, two updates in a week, but without my vehicle(another story) shipyard time has increased. I have completed the back rails which I will show in my next post as they aren't attached yet and will complete the breast hooks today as Mike is on edge waiting to see them. For now I have nailed the companion way and made some cleats from rosewood.
 

Here I am showing how I mask it to try and get a relatively straight line.
 

Here are a couple of shots showing holes drilled and nails in place. I used .4 mm nylon fishing line. First side I cut these off using flush cutters then sanded smooth, this side I used a sharp blade to cut off then sanded. The blade worked much better and very little sanding was required, just enough to remove excess glue. Should be noted the companion way had several coats of poly on it to prevent any stains from the ca glue.
 

 Here are the results, I think the .4 mm fishing line is the right scale and looks good. With a little more practice I may do a deck someday. I also found some light brown .3 mm fishing line that I may do a test section on my Pegasus with. 
 

Here I'm just showing the steps of making cleats. As you can see they are fairly large about 10 mm so they were fairly easy to make, that's one of the beauties of working at this scale.  The first one is after rough shaping on the Byrnes disc sander and the middle one is after some fine tuning with riffler file the cleat on the right is the kit supplied one. I would not normally spend twenty minutes making a cleat but I only need two so I thought what the heck. As you can see I have two extra ones that I am willing to offer to members here before I list them on ebay 
 

Here I'm rough shaping it on the disc sander.The thing off to the right in the picture is a crepe block used to clean the sanding disc, this helps prolong the life of your disc or belt if you have a thickness sander. You can get these at Lee Valley they are cheap and last forever.
 Thanks once more for stopping in and have a good one.
 

Thanks to all for stopping in, for your comments and for all the likes. Got a little more done in the last two days mainly the ship's stove is now installed complete with a stockpile of firewood and an axe. The pump was also made and installed, this is a little kit included with the package, I think it looks pretty good. It came with 3 mm copper strapping for the bands, however, I replaced that with some card stock
 

 
 Hope you enjoy, have a good evening

Beautiful work as always Steve. I'm a good way behind you and your build has become my number 1 point of reference.