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flying_dutchman2

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Everything posted by flying_dutchman2

  1. flying_dutchman2
    Too many guns on that drawing. Someone had a dream and put it on paper. The average amount of sailors on a Fluit was around 20 and usually they all came from the same town. Narrow decks were for less toll. Some fluits had 6 to 8 canons, most had only a few. They sailed in convoys and were protected by war ships. I would not place those canons where they are now. There must be other places on the decks where you can put them without interference from the grate. Marcus
  2. flying_dutchman2
    Observation. My Zeehaen needs 4 - 20 cm planks to cover one strake from stem to stern. If you plank with straight butts, top ruler, then 4 planks of 20cm long would cover 1 strake. If you plank with with Dutch version of butts, bottom ruler, then 4 planks will not cover 1 strake. You need more. That would be 4 - 1/2 planks. If a plank is 20 cm long and your Dutch butts are 2.5 cm each end, the full width of the plank is less then 20 cm long Now if the plank is 20 cm long and the 2 butts are 2.5 cm long then 2 x 2.5 + 20 = 25 cm long plank. This is wrong. Below I made various templates to form the butts. Top right a rectangular piece of brass of 2.5 cm long and two 90 degree edges on each end. Will need to sharpen one long edge so it is easier to cut the wood. Top left razor blade cut from 4 cm to 2.5 cm. On the hull I would overlap 2 pieces and make the cut so the butts would fit well. Bottom ruler just shows how the butts fit. Non of my models have all the same looking butts. I tried several kinds. On the fluit I will do all Dutch versions of butts Is there another word for the butts? Marcus
  3. flying_dutchman2
    I built only Dutch ships and they are known to have bluff bows. Presently building a Fluit. Towards the stern the wood bends both ways. All I use is water and when I really have trouble, heat, but that is rare. I soak the heck out of them, sometimes for weeks. But this is my method and we all have different methods. Whatever works. Marcus
  4. flying_dutchman2
    Roger, Wind powered sawmills was a Dutch invention and you are correct about the wood. The Dutch had special fluits called "Houthaalders" which means wood haulers and they went to the Baltic to get wood. The taffrail could be opened and wood would be slipped in. Marcus
  5. flying_dutchman2
    Yes, Clear. Thank you for all of that. 😁 Marcus
  6. flying_dutchman2
    Ab, Been reading about Dutch measurements on Wikipedia https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dutch_units_of_measurement#Voet and have two questions. In post #186 you said and I quote "He specifies the planking needed as 4 1/2 for every strake for this length. That means that every plank is about 27 feet, which is roughly 7,50 m." 1. 4 1/2 what? 2. What formula did you use to get 7,50 meter from 27 feet? Thank you Marcus
  7. flying_dutchman2
    Gentlemen, Ammonia is a Big NO-NO in making planks bendable. Technical background. Wood is made up of cells that have lignin, which is a complex organic polymer deposited in the cell walls of many plants, making them rigid and woody. Ammonia reacts with the lignin by making the cell walls mushy. It destroys the cell walls of the wood and over time warps the model. Your plank falls apart. Just think of what happens to all the planks of your model. Marcus
  8. flying_dutchman2
    Robert, Here is a link https://www.modelships.de/Fluyt-Zeehaen/Fluyt-Zeehaen.htm from a site of models made by professionals. The link shows the Zeehaen (which I am building) . If you have any questions, I might be able to answer those. On a Dutch site modelbouwforum.nl there are several modelers that have built fluits. Look under the thread called "Bouwverslagen historische schepen" Marcus
  9. flying_dutchman2
    How did I miss this one. This Fluit is looking very good. I like you clean lines on the planking. Ab Hoving would be a very good source of information on building this ship. Marcus
  10. flying_dutchman2
    Ab, I will look in Witsen's book and thank you for the suggested numbers. I am a bit embarrassed by the next question (and I should not be), What is the length of my planks in centimeters or inches for my model if the scale is 1:37.5? Do I divide 37.5 into something? Thanks Marcus Mark, Thank you as well for the measurements. Marcus
  11. flying_dutchman2
    Peter, Your English is fine not to worry. I am doing the butts on every plank. I practiced making these butts while building the Utrecht and the Boyer. Marcus
  12. flying_dutchman2
    The following question has probably been asked numerous times. If my ship is in X scale what is the max legth and width of my hull and deck planks? I have looked in numerous books i possess, went to several ship model sites and read several articles. There is not a clear cut answer or math formula available. In "Planking techniques for model ship builders" by "Donald Dressel" on pages 70 to 81 there is a discussion about some basic information. Example. On an 1/8th inch scale model planks should not exceed 3 inches. On a 1/4 inch scale model the planks are 6 inches in length. Also in general planks were between 4.6 mtr to 6.1 mtr (15' to 20') in real life. So if my model is in a scale of 1 cm - 37.5 cm, what will the length of my planks be for the model? Thank you in advance. Marcus
  13. flying_dutchman2
    Thanks for the help, Ab. Will make the opening a bit rounder and have started on the carvings. It is the one exercise I am not very good at. So I make many of the same items and pick the best. I have 9 samples of the fish. Marcus
  14. flying_dutchman2
    Taffrail onstled and excess planking removed. Taffrail from the inside. Rudder dry fitted with tape. Dry fit rudder and tiller. Marcus
  15. flying_dutchman2
    Patience.......
  16. flying_dutchman2
    Did what Ab mentioned in his post #174. First I dry fitted the taffrail to the batten that is screwed to the post. Glued the taffrail in place. After glue is dry remove the batten holding the taffrail and the excess of the planks sticking out backwards. Marcus
  17. flying_dutchman2
    Yes, I do. Also on a Dutch forum someone build the Zeehaen as well as the site ShipsofScale. Marcus
  18. flying_dutchman2
    Thanks, Ab. Once the taffrail is installed, I need to cut out a round area just below the taffrail. I think that once the taffrail is in then that should be easy to do. Just follow the curve of the carvings tbat will be installed at that location. Marcus
  19. flying_dutchman2
    Yes, she turned out pretty nice. My sister and brother in law love the build and she is proudly displayed on a side table in the living room. Marcus
  20. flying_dutchman2
    Thanks Ab, Here are several pictures from the back and both sides.
  21. flying_dutchman2
    I am stuck. I have difficulty visualizing the transom/stern area (maybe it's me). I do have help from a Dutchman on modelbouwforum.nl who has built the Zeehaen in a smaller scale and his looks really good. I'll just go back to his build and stare at his pictures from the stetn area 😀 Marcus
  22. flying_dutchman2
    Druxey, good review. I read a detailed chapter in the following book. Going Dutch, How England Plundered Holland's Glory by Lisa Jardine. Book starts out with a detailed Medway incident and then goes into excruciating detail about united Dutch republic politics. I will read it some other time. Marcus
  23. flying_dutchman2
    The mess will be hidden. You won't see it. Marcus
  24. flying_dutchman2
    The ship is coming along nicely and your attention to all the details is amazing. My cat does something similar. He catches whatever he can. Breaks its neck and brings me the offering and then looks at me in a way, "look here, what I got you". Marcus
  25. flying_dutchman2
    Created little deckbeam holders and glied the with a combo of glue and sawdust to the inside of the hull. The beams are dry fitted in the slots. You won't see any of this when the main deck is in. Once this is completed I will start on dressing up the inside of the hull. It is the area that is exposed. Marcus

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