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flying_dutchman2

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Everything posted by flying_dutchman2

  1. The following question has probably been asked numerous times. If my ship is in X scale what is the max legth and width of my hull and deck planks? I have looked in numerous books i possess, went to several ship model sites and read several articles. There is not a clear cut answer or math formula available. In "Planking techniques for model ship builders" by "Donald Dressel" on pages 70 to 81 there is a discussion about some basic information. Example. On an 1/8th inch scale model planks should not exceed 3 inches. On a 1/4 inch scale model the planks are 6 inches in length. Also in general planks were between 4.6 mtr to 6.1 mtr (15' to 20') in real life. So if my model is in a scale of 1 cm - 37.5 cm, what will the length of my planks be for the model? Thank you in advance. Marcus
  2. Thanks for the help, Ab. Will make the opening a bit rounder and have started on the carvings. It is the one exercise I am not very good at. So I make many of the same items and pick the best. I have 9 samples of the fish. Marcus
  3. Taffrail onstled and excess planking removed. Taffrail from the inside. Rudder dry fitted with tape. Dry fit rudder and tiller. Marcus
  4. Did what Ab mentioned in his post #174. First I dry fitted the taffrail to the batten that is screwed to the post. Glued the taffrail in place. After glue is dry remove the batten holding the taffrail and the excess of the planks sticking out backwards. Marcus
  5. Yes, I do. Also on a Dutch forum someone build the Zeehaen as well as the site ShipsofScale. Marcus
  6. Thanks, Ab. Once the taffrail is installed, I need to cut out a round area just below the taffrail. I think that once the taffrail is in then that should be easy to do. Just follow the curve of the carvings tbat will be installed at that location. Marcus
  7. Yes, she turned out pretty nice. My sister and brother in law love the build and she is proudly displayed on a side table in the living room. Marcus
  8. I am stuck. I have difficulty visualizing the transom/stern area (maybe it's me). I do have help from a Dutchman on modelbouwforum.nl who has built the Zeehaen in a smaller scale and his looks really good. I'll just go back to his build and stare at his pictures from the stetn area 😀 Marcus
  9. Druxey, good review. I read a detailed chapter in the following book. Going Dutch, How England Plundered Holland's Glory by Lisa Jardine. Book starts out with a detailed Medway incident and then goes into excruciating detail about united Dutch republic politics. I will read it some other time. Marcus
  10. The ship is coming along nicely and your attention to all the details is amazing. My cat does something similar. He catches whatever he can. Breaks its neck and brings me the offering and then looks at me in a way, "look here, what I got you". Marcus
  11. Created little deckbeam holders and glied the with a combo of glue and sawdust to the inside of the hull. The beams are dry fitted in the slots. You won't see any of this when the main deck is in. Once this is completed I will start on dressing up the inside of the hull. It is the area that is exposed. Marcus
  12. The pictures in the 17th century Dutch merchant ships book show the outside of the hull planking and on the inside long vertical square dowels. It seems like the ship was built shell-first. I am going to do veneer with 0.5mm planking on top with spaced square dowels on top of that. Making it look like frames. Marcus
  13. Have been doing some ship building but the last 3 weeks it has been mostly outside. Getting the edible garden ready for spring planting and pruned all the fruit. So I cut away excess wood from the railings. Still need to remove the wood to where the tiller goes into the ship. It is curved. Dry placed the decks on stainless steel rods. Through carefully sanding the inside of the hull the bulkheads have been thinned in thickness. My present dilemma is with what do I need to dress up the inside of the ship? As is. Veneer. Veneer with spaced dowels. Layer of veneer with 0.5mm thick planking on top of that and spaced dowels on top of the planking. The last option seems like the best option. All advise is appreciated. Thanks Marcus
  14. Back from India. The 3 day wedding was actually a 5 day wedding. It was a show of opulence. The groom arrived on an elephant. Several things that left a mark in my brain were: - The sheer amount of people, from dawn to dusk it is shoulder to shoulder everywhere you go. The country has 1.3 Billion people. (and I thought Amsterdam and Chicago had a lot of people) - I thought I knew what poverty was, due to living in South East Asia and West Africa, but it is nothing like that at all. It was an eye opener. - Three Traffic Rules: Have a working horn. Have good working brakes. Have some luck. Use your horn when you want to pass, when you are passing and when you passed. Use your horn when others: cut you off, going too slow, Anything you can think of. Everybody does this and it is very noisy. Constant fender benders. It happens, check it out, continue with your journey. Police and ambulance drive in both directions all the time. All in all the trip was a lot of fun, didn't get sick by drinking the local water and learned a lot about the culture and history of India. Back to the Fluit. Marcus
  15. Thanks, Steven, The 1st picture shows how the rudder and the tiller are positioned. The more pictures I see from that the better. I have seen similar pictures like the second one. It always looks like the over do on the curvature of the hips. Marcus
  16. Mark, thanks for the explanation and Ab, for the elaborate definition of all the decks. I appreciate the Dutch definitions as well. Marcus
  17. Measured many times the heights of the different decks. Meaning of the colorful push pins: Yellow and red is for the waterline. Green and blue is for the lower deck which will not be visible. White and clear is for the main deck, and decks I don't know the names for. This is the lower deck that will be completely hidden. I have put it in anyway because I will use it as a guide for the beams for the main deck and other small deck. What is the deck called under the poop deck (where does that name originate from?). Does the forecastle deck have a focsle on top of it? Please feel free to set me straight or steer me to a location where all decks are defined on any ship. I have books that have some explanation of decks but they are not complete. Thanks Marcus
  18. This morning I did the radical re-do without any problems. Removed the necessary planks and frames. Sanded everything and glued in the frames. Glued in the planking and for extra strength, drilled hole through plank and frame and hammered in a toothpick. Tomorrow I will sand lightly on the outside, add some more frames to the area and make sure there are no more drastic re-do's. Marcus
  19. Thanks for the suggestion. I will do the radical re-do and get the planking going straight up. I think it would look much better that way. Marcus
  20. Before I do another 'radical re-do', I have the following question for the modelers who have built a Fluit. When I am facing the ship with the taffrail/stern in front of me, on the left side from frame 50 to the taffrail the upper planking goes straight up. Facing the taffrail/stern again, on the right side. From frame 50 to frame 20 the top planking is at an angle and from frame 20 to the taffrail the planking goes straight up. Question: Do I need to do a drastic removal from the area on the right side from frame 50 to 20 and reinstall new frames, so when I plank that area the planks will go straight up? I am tempted to do this as it is easy to execute and doesn't take up a lot of time. On the pictures uploaded here, you can't really tell the angled planks to the straight up planks. On several pictures in the Merchant book it looks that way, not angled but straight up. Thanks for the suggestions in advance, Marcus
  21. Figuring the location of the decks. Starting at the waterline I measure between decks on the plan and transfer that number to the same location on the outside of the hull. Once all locations are marked with a pencil, I drill a tiny hole in the hull. I do the same for the other side of the hull. Stick a stainless steel rod through all the holes which give me an idea of where the decks will be. (From my Woodworkers club, a steel worker gave me stainless steel rods from sizes 0.3mm to 2mm) I just cut them in smaller lengths. Made deck templates from cherry veneer and put them where the permanent decks will be. The rods are temporary. Notches will be made where the tiny holes are located and a deck beam will be installed there. Then a new deck will be installed. On a different note. From the 10th to the 24th of February I will be in New Delhi, India. The first week is sight seeing and in the second week there will be a 3 day wedding. My niece is getting married in a traditional Indian wedding. I am the only paternal uncle and I have a crucial role to play. I will be giving the bride away. My wife and I have all the necessary clothing to wear for the occasion. Indian weddings must be one of the costliest occasions compared to other types of weddings. Feed 300 and counting guests for 3 days. Our clothes are in the frugal range of $$ but the wedding dress can go from simple to having gold strings sewed into them. My guess is that my niece's dress will not be cheap. Anyway, it is going to be an interesting affair. Marcus
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