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flying_dutchman2

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Everything posted by flying_dutchman2

  1. flying_dutchman2
    Jean-Pierre, I used full length planks on my Boyer and indented them at certain lengths. This time I want to try to use 20cm lengths and fit the scaphs as I go along. Hans, I expect the scarph joints to be different while following the curvature of the ship. Marcus
  2. flying_dutchman2
    When the time comes to plank the second layer, the planks will be soaked again for easier bending and following the lines. Marcus
  3. flying_dutchman2
    Thank you for all the likes. Preparing the second layer of cherry planking. Most of the planks will be 20 cm long with a Dutch scarph joint on each side. There will also be smaller lengths. Put the planks in some water as they will cut better without splitting. Once the scarphs are cut the planks will be dried. Top plank is to show what the scarphs look like when cut. Middle plank is to show when the scarphs are together. Bottom plank being cut to make a scarph. Close up from a scarph being created. I will be creating joints on about 80 planks. Not all joints will be created now, some will be made when I plank the ship. Marcus
  4. flying_dutchman2
    Hans, Finally caught up with your build. Beautifully executed. I've always built merchant ships but for a scratch built warship I will be building this one and as far as I know the book from Otto Blom is the best out there. Marcus
  5. flying_dutchman2
    Thank you for all the likes and Patrick, thank you for the compliment. Finishing up on the location of where the bowsprite goes into its holder and the little deck located at the tip of the stem. Started working on the bowsprite panel. Cut a piece of veneer by 0.5mm wider than the actual location of the panel so it is both a tight fit and slightly bowed or curved. Started paneling the veneer with 5mm wide cherry strips. I still need to raise the wall from hull by 4mm. So then it is even with the other side. Bowsprite panel can be removed for easy adding 2 catheads squares, 1 gunprt and 3 steps. Once the glue dried the paneling was marked for the catheads and gunport. Tomorrow the 2 catheads squares will be removed. Marcus
  6. flying_dutchman2
    # Jean-Pierre. The built looks great. I like how you did the decorations. Also, noticed that your taffrail is very different compared to mine. I like that about Fluits, numerous variations. # Jan, Thank you for the linguistic history lesson. Fascinating! Marcus
  7. flying_dutchman2
    Jean-Pierre, Beautiful!!! You did a great job so far. I like your explanation of the decorations. I hope my Fluit will look as good as yours. Marcus
  8. flying_dutchman2
    Worked on the bow most of the day. Figuring and creating a bowsprite holder. Strengthening the deck. Glued deck in place. Used card to make a template of where the bowsprite goes. With a hand drill, drilled a hole through the bowsprite, deck and part of the wood. The drill bit kept it all in place while i could draw the lines for the holder. The area where the bowsprite goes into the ship, is there a name for that area? Bowsprite holder. Dry fit planking and bowsprite. Once i have planked that area and made a hole in it, I can slide the bowsprite with some glue into the holder. Marcus
  9. flying_dutchman2
    Either a torch or plank bender will work. I think a plank bender gives you more control. Marcus
  10. flying_dutchman2
    Gorilla glue if they are small pieces. I have done that with epoxy. My motto is, if all else fails, epoxy is your answer. Love the pictures. Those are beautiful looking bikes. I am signing off and I am now going to reminisce. Marcus
  11. flying_dutchman2
    Working on the bow area. Building it up and figuring out how to anchor the bowsprite in that area. For me, this ship is difficult to built. It is the ultimate challenge for me and I will finish her. As I said before maybe I should have built something easier before doing the fluit. Anyway, the steps I follow in my head from keel to flags is at times a bit overwhelming. Like the Dutch shipwright who didn't write anything down while building a ship, it was all in his head. I am doing something similar, I am not taking any notes like some modelers do. Marcus
  12. flying_dutchman2
    Great that you are starting this up again. I will follow this built with great interest. Your fluit has a slightly different stern than my Zeehaen. Mine is round and bulging and yours is flat and then bulgy. Yours is easier to add the decoration (versiering) than mine. Will figure it out. Marcus
  13. flying_dutchman2
    CBX 1050 and a GSX 1150 wow, I remember those very well. In college (no money for a car) started with a 1981 Honda XL250S, moved up to a 1983 XL600 and that was a kickstart. Had that till 1988 when I finished grad school. Went to work in Saudi Arabia and had several Huskies. No spark arrestor, short exhaust and go all out on sand flats with others. Always wore a helmet. Marcus
  14. flying_dutchman2
    Most mechanical objects follow strict protocol in building / rebuilding. You can't improvise. You do that, you get hurt or you die. What type of motorcycles do you build? You must have glued the canons on the deck. Oh well. All together the fluit looks great. Marcus
  15. flying_dutchman2
    Too many guns on that drawing. Someone had a dream and put it on paper. The average amount of sailors on a Fluit was around 20 and usually they all came from the same town. Narrow decks were for less toll. Some fluits had 6 to 8 canons, most had only a few. They sailed in convoys and were protected by war ships. I would not place those canons where they are now. There must be other places on the decks where you can put them without interference from the grate. Marcus
  16. flying_dutchman2
    Observation. My Zeehaen needs 4 - 20 cm planks to cover one strake from stem to stern. If you plank with straight butts, top ruler, then 4 planks of 20cm long would cover 1 strake. If you plank with with Dutch version of butts, bottom ruler, then 4 planks will not cover 1 strake. You need more. That would be 4 - 1/2 planks. If a plank is 20 cm long and your Dutch butts are 2.5 cm each end, the full width of the plank is less then 20 cm long Now if the plank is 20 cm long and the 2 butts are 2.5 cm long then 2 x 2.5 + 20 = 25 cm long plank. This is wrong. Below I made various templates to form the butts. Top right a rectangular piece of brass of 2.5 cm long and two 90 degree edges on each end. Will need to sharpen one long edge so it is easier to cut the wood. Top left razor blade cut from 4 cm to 2.5 cm. On the hull I would overlap 2 pieces and make the cut so the butts would fit well. Bottom ruler just shows how the butts fit. Non of my models have all the same looking butts. I tried several kinds. On the fluit I will do all Dutch versions of butts Is there another word for the butts? Marcus
  17. flying_dutchman2
    I built only Dutch ships and they are known to have bluff bows. Presently building a Fluit. Towards the stern the wood bends both ways. All I use is water and when I really have trouble, heat, but that is rare. I soak the heck out of them, sometimes for weeks. But this is my method and we all have different methods. Whatever works. Marcus
  18. flying_dutchman2
    Roger, Wind powered sawmills was a Dutch invention and you are correct about the wood. The Dutch had special fluits called "Houthaalders" which means wood haulers and they went to the Baltic to get wood. The taffrail could be opened and wood would be slipped in. Marcus
  19. flying_dutchman2
    Yes, Clear. Thank you for all of that. 😁 Marcus
  20. flying_dutchman2
    Ab, Been reading about Dutch measurements on Wikipedia https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dutch_units_of_measurement#Voet and have two questions. In post #186 you said and I quote "He specifies the planking needed as 4 1/2 for every strake for this length. That means that every plank is about 27 feet, which is roughly 7,50 m." 1. 4 1/2 what? 2. What formula did you use to get 7,50 meter from 27 feet? Thank you Marcus
  21. flying_dutchman2
    Gentlemen, Ammonia is a Big NO-NO in making planks bendable. Technical background. Wood is made up of cells that have lignin, which is a complex organic polymer deposited in the cell walls of many plants, making them rigid and woody. Ammonia reacts with the lignin by making the cell walls mushy. It destroys the cell walls of the wood and over time warps the model. Your plank falls apart. Just think of what happens to all the planks of your model. Marcus
  22. flying_dutchman2
    Robert, Here is a link https://www.modelships.de/Fluyt-Zeehaen/Fluyt-Zeehaen.htm from a site of models made by professionals. The link shows the Zeehaen (which I am building) . If you have any questions, I might be able to answer those. On a Dutch site modelbouwforum.nl there are several modelers that have built fluits. Look under the thread called "Bouwverslagen historische schepen" Marcus
  23. flying_dutchman2
    How did I miss this one. This Fluit is looking very good. I like you clean lines on the planking. Ab Hoving would be a very good source of information on building this ship. Marcus
  24. flying_dutchman2
    Ab, I will look in Witsen's book and thank you for the suggested numbers. I am a bit embarrassed by the next question (and I should not be), What is the length of my planks in centimeters or inches for my model if the scale is 1:37.5? Do I divide 37.5 into something? Thanks Marcus Mark, Thank you as well for the measurements. Marcus
  25. flying_dutchman2
    Peter, Your English is fine not to worry. I am doing the butts on every plank. I practiced making these butts while building the Utrecht and the Boyer. Marcus

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