Captain Slog

Part 2 of the Swivel gun assembly process with some partially completed units in the last photo.  I still need to clean these up, blacken them and add the control arm knob/timber (not sure which way to go yet).
 
I am also looking foe pointers/advice on what to use or how to create a fixed circular pate about half the way down the spigot that would sit on the gun post and stop the spigot going further down the hole.  This then allowed to gun to rotate in the hole.  This will require a very small washer type part to be soldered in place which at about 1.5mm may be a tad small to achieve
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
   
 
   

Good Afternoon all
35c outside here this afternoon, so that's it for the outside work.
So I thought might as well do a little update, any excuse to think ship modelling, will do.



 
The bottom photo is of the first 2 hooked planks for the bow. it
took 4 goes to make the first one. The Jarrah is brittle and breaks little bits off.
 
I will be only posting a limited number photos until I finish planking below the wales.
Its too hard to take a good photo to show the details without doing a proper sanding
and putting a finish on the planks. Specially of the bow.
 
Any way planking is proceeding at usual pace, so won't take too long.
For those that haven't seen this pic I am trying to plank the bow
as per scan 38 on this page
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1207-endeavour-replica-construction-pics-moved-by-moderator/
 
On a different note I just noticed that I have followers, very flattering, thanks to all.
BUT, Being a follower here doesn't mean that you sit back for an easy ride.
You will need to put in at some stage, I will need it later.
Some have already offered advice and I always say "the more the better"
So chip in especially, if you see me about to do something wrong.
 
Hooroo Chris

It's been awhile since I've looked in, Ron.  Life and all that.  You Endeavour is looking great.  Very impressive.

All the ratlines are done,i find it quite relaxing and easy compared to most other things.I'll attach the bowsprit next much easier doing the rats without it there.Don't you hate it when trimming the ratlines you cut through the main shroud line and yes you do it more than once,oops.

Endeavour photo

Hi Kiwiron,
 
artificial sea level, cutaway, and seperate disposal of crew, marine soldiers officers, storage and cargo, lovely details
whoever built that model should win a prize for the idea, thanks for sharing that inspiring pic...
 
Nils

Finished Product
 
Being used to wood kits that take me 1-2 years to complete this was a very quick build.
I’m pleased with how it turned out although resin & plastic kits don’t really float my boat, I prefer actually making things rather than just “gluein n’ paintin.” For this build I was after the end result more than the process, I wanted a model of a ship I served on 30+ years ago to replace one from a different manufacturer (White Ensign Models) from about 10 years ago which is shown in the last pix.
 

Finally got around to doing something.Futtock shrouds done,top shrouds,tie the deadeyes together next.After 5 years we are finally getting the house rebuild after the Chch earthquakes so the present house will be demolished next month.

Hi All,
 
Well a major milestone, 3 years in the making has been reached.  The hull is essentially finished.  There is still a lot to do to it but its all little detail work and of course the deck furniture.
 
A lot of blood, sweat and tears to get to this stage but overall relatively happy with the outcome.  There are a lot of mistakes made along the way and lots of lessons learned.
 
Cheers
Slog
 






 

Hi Ross,
Thanks for dropping by.  Do you have a log of your Bounty?
 
I would have done a refresher of my build log for MSW 2.0 but I had some kind of HDD failure back in October 2011 and lost all my photos up to that point.  Probably around a year and half’s worth from box opening to finishing the second planking. (thankfully recovered all the Admirals stuff but mine was lost)
 
I do have photos from sanding and filling the second layer to where I am today but I had a flick through them all and nothing exciting in there.  So I doubt I will post them back up unless someone asks a specific question and I have a photo to show.
 
 
I spent an hour or so in the shed to make a jig for an issue that was bugging me also because I will be close to marking the water line.
 
The photo below was how I used to secure the hull in the stand to get it level and plumb for marking on and measuring bits and pieces.  Basically it was aligning the hull and then securing it with masking tape to the supplied stand.  Two problems, I needed to remove the hull for working on it so had to go through the measuring position and taping secure each time and I was concerned about repeatability.
Secondly even if I didn’t need to remove the hull I didn’t like the tape being in place for any length of time as previously it had marked the hull which showed up after varnishing.

 
The new jig below lets me lift the hull in and out without worrying about positioning and repeatability.   The  jig to holds the keel and stem post level and plumb respectively.  I simply bought a sheet of 16mm MDF, 1800mm long by 300mm wide.
 
I chopped it into 3 lengths of 600mm giving me a few tries in case I messed up and being a lazy sod just left the full 300mm width.  I simply routed a channel down the middle a couple of millimetres deep.  I didn’t go any deeper as the curve of the hull would have then rested on the board; to keep it level the keel needs to sit in the bottom of the channel.
 
I then chopped a length off higher than the stem and screwed it to the end of the main board.  Ideally the vertical channel could have been deeper but did the channel in one length and since I didn’t have a bit the correct width of the channel I had to make repeated passes and didn’t want to upset the router setup.



 
Next up was the taffrail.  I cut stanchions from 3mm x 2mm stock as per the plans and after marking their position with tape I painted their edges before gluing to the bulwarks.  Once the glue was dried I glued the taffrail to the tops of the stanchions and the edges of the rough tree rail and held together with clothes pegs and some aluminium foil so the pegs didn’t stick to the rails.


 
One problem was that the geometry of the hull, stern and rough tree rails all appear to be out as the taffrail didn’t fit nicely either on the ends of the rough tree rails or between them and there appears to be a considerable gap to be filled. Not sure if other Caldercraft Endeavour builders had the same experience.
 
I cut some of the ply sheet which all the rails came from and used this to fill in the corners.  Again I used wood glue and the clothes pegs to hold in position.  Once sanded they blend in nicely and should disappear when painted.
 




 
Cheers
Slog
 
 

Hi Pat, thanks for the kind words, but unfortunately no way will I catch you up.  I had a nice 4 day long weekend to do a fair bit but this will be my last update for a while. Don’t know when I will get a chance again.  
 
Okay still working on the handrail area I cut out all the swivel gun posts and then used the black cartridge paper supplied with the kit to do the iron banding.
 
I couldn’t decide if I should paint the posts black like most references/other builds or leave them natural.  In the end I decided to paint them and of course the iron banding virtually disappears.  

 
I then painted the sides of the posts before gluing to the hull so I didn’t need to worry about trying to get a good edge against the blue.  I used the  newly made hull holder jig thingy and a square to get the posts plumb and marked the position with tape and glued them up.


 
When I next get a chance to work on the model I will paint all the rough tree rails, swivel gun posts, rail stanchions etc black.  I must say doing all the little fiddly hull details etc for me is probably the most enjoyable part of the build so far.
 
Cheers
Slog
 
 
 

Great job Dashicat
 
This is a very nice stage to be at.
 
Cheers
Slog

Great job Dashicat
 
This is a very nice stage to be at.
 
Cheers
Slog

After adding the decals it was time to finally add the “wings”. Several deck details have been added (the tiny windshield wipers were a real treat.) 
About 75% done at this point.

Second layer of hull planked with the 1x4mm walnut. I needed 2 half stealers at the bow bulwarks for the peak, but apart from that managed to come up the bow without trimming. At the stern I had to do some slight trimming to finish at approximately the top of the quarter deck bulwark.
 
She has had a coarse and medium sand. Then I made a stencil of the hatches, anchor slide etc. and traced these onto the hull so they don't interfere with the trennels and strake butts. Note: I've finished the forward bulwarks 1.5 mm above the frame tabs which has worked out good when stenciling on the hull fittings in relation to the position of the rubbing strakes. (I'm wondering if the thickness of the finished deck hasn't been included, just the false deck for the size of the frames and tabs which is the problem I encountered at the keel with the thickness of hull planks)? 
 
Next I will drill out the pin holes with a no7 bit to form trennels and mark and cut in the strake butts and drill the corresponding trennel holes. I will also drill trennel holes on either side of the hatch positions (which I've penciled on).
 
Then the plan is (which I havn't done or heard of before) to mix up some mahogany water based wood filler with a little black filler to get it a shade darker than the walnut. This I will use to fill the drill holes and joins to simulate the hull trennels and caulking. Then when this is all dry a fine sanding. (If anyone has used this method for simulating trennels, then could you please let me know how it went with links to photos if any cheers)?
 
As for the stern facia I will cut the rudder hole and plank the inside of the quarter deck bulwarks before adding this so I can sand them down to match the facia before gluing. Also will need to trim some ply away from framing parts 17 and 18 as I will be adding some projector film to the windows to simulate glass and don't want the inside to be covered with framing.

Hi All,
On equipment.
I bought this little mini drop saw some approx. 12 months ago.

 
I wish I had this little item from the outset of the construction.
I did all the planking on the hull, cutting planks by hand.
I've added run in and run-out table/s. I can clamp timbers to the back of the tables to hold or for a stop. 
Recently, I added a metal flashing at the rear to catch dust and off-cuts, I use it so much.
 

 
If you buy anything, I can recommend this is a must, as it cuts really neat square joints, 45deg to 90deg.
I reckon I am up for replacement blade, I have used it so much.
 
Dave R

No word from Jotika yet Slog, but haha yeah imagine that thing taking off over the deck after firing. Who needs enemys when you have a gun like this lol :-).

The bow splinter shield or wave shield. I added a few pieces of 0.5mm polystyrene cut to shape to represent the bolsters. I'm just awaiting some red trimline to add to the hull. I can start on the rest of the etch bending now.
 
I have no idea why but I cannot get the photos to orientate correctly. 

An update to work on the stern Flag Boxes(I believe they are called)
Probably used for storing flags and assorted attachments.
 
I thought I'd run a bit of a log on the process I use to make the hinges through to end. I don;t know how some of you modelers make things so small. This is how I do it.   
 
Lets start with the plan on the rear deck, the starboard flag box highlighted(from the AOTS):

 
Create and fix in place port and starboard box frames for the lids to fix to:

 
The lids; I made the lid/frame from left over 1mm planks:
Selected a purchased hinge to bash into a smaller version for this application.

 
Hinges bashed - grind and filed thinner.

 
The end of each curved to allow a thin bar(actually a model railway pin - so very thin) to pass through as a hinge pinion(is that the correct word?).


 
Blackened and CA/glued to hatches.


 
Make some very small pins(from the railway pin heads)
Craft some eyelets(fairly rough but you do not see them in the end really)

 
Loose fix the pins & eyelets to the hatches:

 
After touching up the black, gluing in place, ended up like....


 
A couple of coats of clear, should bring the timber grain out and onto the flag pole fixtures. 
Updated - coat of clear.


 
Dave R

Hello again
 
I have to do some additional updates... I did some very big mistakes... All sails rigging - clew garnet (?) is wrong. I always thought that something looks strange. But I did not recognize what. But yesterday I found out what was wrong. All the ropes have to be fixed on the backside of the sails not on the front. But I did all acording to the instructions. But the instructions are bad in view of rigging. They do not differ between front and back and they do not show exactly the Details.
 
I can not leave this failure. So I redo all relevant rigging (I estimate about 20 to 25 hrs all in all)
 
I will show some pice when I am through and then really finished
 
Cheerio
 
Max
 
 
 

Second layer of hull almost finished, photo's to follow in a few days all going well.

Meanwhile the height of the gunwale capping sits at deck level according to the bulkhead tabs which looks too low. I made up a gun carriage with bashed eyebolts and allowed for the gunwale to be approx 3 to 4 mm above deck level giving room for the breach robe eyebolt. Looking at photo's of the replica the gun tackle sits under the breach robe so is mostly out of view so I might settle with just a breach robe at this stage.

While I was about it I thought I'd place one of the overscaled guns they supplied in the kit on its carriage.

Airbrushing haze gray on the hull and vertical surfaces went well, then it was a matter of painting the cast on details. I found that a sharpened toothpick worked the best for that. I'm still amazed at the attention to detail that Orange Hobby included, as an example the blue cylinders on the deck next to the fire stations are the 5 gallon cans of AFFF fire fighting foam.
One error in the kit plans it that they call for painting the underbody and foils haze gray also. They were actually left bare aluminum, although the hulls began to pick up a splotchy brown oxidizing coating even while under construction in the Boeing assembly hanger. Once they hit salt water the oxidation really took off leaving the hulls and foils blotchy brown which I have tried to reproduce with several coats of thinned rust enamel, hitting it with the brush bristle ends while still wet.
Next step will be to spray the hull with clear laquer so that the decals will have a good base to adhere to.

That now brings us to the “tribulations” section o’ this series of postings …
 
“Arr !! Indeed-eth it does !!” noted CaptainSteve, forlornly. For, twouldst seem-eth that, upon final inspection, one o’ the stern timbers were to be out of alignment.”

 
Further, and far worse, whereby Our Hero didst e’er so lightly attempt to correct this piece, tragedy were to strike … and it didst break-eth !!!

“And it be a corner timber, as well !! Thusly, I beseech-eth, o’ Ye o' the Horde,” he were to implore-eth. “Wouldst I be able to re-attach the piece ??”
 
As of this past even-tide, CaptainSteve hath re-glued the broken timber upright …
“But,” he sighed, most heavily, “I be left a-wondering, will this be structurally sound ??”
 
Given that it is a corner upright, couldst he drill-eth a hole, and mayhaps use a small piece of wire – a piece from a staple, mayhaps – as an anchor, to re-affix-eth the errant timber upright ??

“Now, those wi’ a keen eye,” CaptainSteve were to continue, “may ha’ noticed above that there still be two o’ the stern timbers yet to be fitted.”
This be because, as previously mentioned, he doth plan on adding LED lights to this build.
 
These timbers have been drilled for the LEDs …

 
… and grooved to take-eth the wiring for same …

 
“A’ready,” Our Hero began-eth, “the wiring plug hath been fitted to me keel, and wiring stubs hath been brought inside.”

 
Unfortunately, that be close to the limits o’ CaptainSteve’s electrical know-how. Fortunately, he doth know-eth of a colleague much skilled in the (un)dark arts.
“As such,” he went-eth on, “I be leavin’ this update here for now. But a-fore we get into matters of Electrification, an anecdote …”
 
Indeed-eth, CaptainSteve doth recall-eth an incident from his own Youth, whereby he were to discover-eth for his ownself the basic principles o’ the process o’ Electrification.
 
“T’was Christmas time o’ that year”, he were to begin-eth. “And I be but ten years o’ age. Me brother, CaptainDennis (fer whom this ‘ere build be intended), were but 16 months younger ‘an me ownself.”
 
“Indeed-eth,” Our Hero were to explain, “he remain-eth so, to this very Day !!”
Ahem …
 
To cut a long an’ rambling story short, Our Hero and his brother had managed to con their beloved parents into a deal whereby these two schemers would receive the super-duper-all-extras-included-bestest-deal-on-the-planet-ever-Mum-and-Dad-honest-to-God-electric-race-car-track-set as a combined Xmas AND next birthday present for the both of them.
 
(Regular fans may wish to take-eth note o’ CaptainSteve’s choice o’ terminology here: specifically, "a combined ... present” and, " ... for the both of them".)
‘Scuse me ?? Betwixt two brothers, you say, CaptainSteve ??
Surely this could lead to nothing but co-operation and an out-pouring of filial love.
 
All were goodly up until the time whence we didst taketh to re-designing the track lay-out. Something went awry, and one car didst becometh stationary and most uncompetitive !!
 
Reasoning, even at this tender age, that there be no mains power, Our Hero decides to test the voltage … by applying his tongue across the metal bits of a section of track.
 
Crouched o’er the track and with his tongue in contact with the rails of the track, he signals to his beloved younger brother:
“Juth a wee bid, bruvva-deareth”, he were to utter.
 
“What ??” asked his beloved younger brother, as he plunged the plunger on the controller to its’ full-plungeable depth.
 
“GAAAAAAAAAAahhhhhhh !!” were CaptainSteve heard to reply-eth.

There hath been troubles, triumphs and tribulation a-plenty in CaptainSteve’s modellin’ room o’er these past few weeks ...
 
Now, despite being greatly enthused and inspired as he was by works of magnificence such as those from Doris … and Siggi … and so many, many others, CaptainSteve doth wish-eth to note that he hath always intended fer the stern quarters interior detailin’ to be viewed at “galloping horse” speeds.
 
“Or faster, if possible !!”, he were to interject.  
 
“Forsooth,” he were to open with. “I didst maketh plans and all …”

 
For, verily, from whence Our Hero didst first plan to display some sort of furniture in the Great Cabin region, he didst intend-eth plan to utilise the veneers of Tasmanian Blackwood for the interior panelling…

 
“It be a beautiful wood, don’t it ??” he enquired of the horde.
 
The problem, and the part that he forgot to be mentioning, is that it also be an extremely close-grained hardwood, thusly making it most difficult to work with …
“But it also be a right PITA to work-eth with, and prone to much splinterin’ and shatterin’ !!”, Our Hero were to declare-eth.
 
“Whilst I were not to keep many pictures o’ me failings,” he stammered weakly, by way of explanation, “I didst try to simulate the panelling with me Proxxon mill.”

 
Eventually, CaptainSteve did constructeth a board-room table from a small piece of the Blackwood …

 
CaptainSteve explains: “In the instance o’ the first, I be a-planning on adding false doors at the back of Bulkhead R …”

 
“… as well-eth, there wouldst be doors leading to each o’ the side galleries.”

 
“In addition, I didst also paint-eth some wall-paintings …”
If truth be known, Our Hero didst merely build-eth a frame, some 3mm square, and didst glue-eth such to a postage stamp. All that remained was a quick trim.

“Arr !!” he were to mumble, sheepishly. “I be found out. I didst think-eth that, at a ‘galloping horse viewing distance’ mayhaps no-one wouldst notice.”

 
Here be pictures ….

 
“Ye may note,” CaptainSteve noted, “that the lounge be just a piece of doll-house furniture which I were to ha’ a-layin’ about the place.”

 
Our Hero intends to be a-leavin’ the doors sittin’ ajar …
“It be the better fer allowing me lighting to be visible through the side gallery windows.”

 
As a final touch, he didst make-eth up a pair of map scrolls …
“These, I be just sitting lazily upon me Blackwood Captain's table,” he explained.

 
“By the by … “, CaptainSteve were to cry-eth out !! “I didst modify the angle o’ me window frames e’er so slightly.”
 
Upon checking the pictures in AOTS more closely, Our Hero didst find-eth that the angles of the window frames are, more accurately: 3.50, 70 and 10.50. As such, new templates were cut from scrap card pieces.

“In truth,” he were to explain-eth, pointing to the above picture, “I didst decideth to go instead with angles of 40, 80 and 120.”
 
CaptainSteve be thinkin’ that these settings be more aesthetically pleasing …
 
What say-eth the Horde ??