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Everything posted by Paddy
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Thanks Pete. I need to stop messing about with this and get back to the framing. Since they're all ready for laying up I need to get that started so I can see what adjustments and issues maybe instore for me. But, a few more turns on the Ropewalk with the No. 100 DMC to see how close I can come to the scale 4 in. breeching rope.
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Russ: Thanks very much. Appreciate the quick answer especially since converting 1:1 to some other scale I'm not quick at. Rusty: Thanks for that. I'm getting better at the ropewalk the more I practice. One of the things that is important to pay attention too is the size of the die you use based on the diameter of the thread you have loaded. You receive extra dies with the machine and its up to the user to drill these for a snug fit between the thread and diameter of the bore.
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More ropewalk practice. Make of thread: DMC Cordonnet (Grant suggested giving this a try and I like it. Fuzz at a minimum.) Size: No. 30 Colour: ECRU Pictured: Small rope is 1 x 3 w/diameter of approximately .031 in. (possible use as gun tackle). Large rope is 2 x 3 w/diameter of approximately .062 in. (possible use as breech rope). Quarter scale Nine Pounder cannon. According to the book by Brian Laqvery Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815, in 1716 breech ropes for 9 to 6 pounders should have a circumference of 4 in. Next step is to do the math and see where I am but I think the .062 in. diameter or circumference of .195 in. is a bit large. Well, off to a skull session now. Does anyone know of a table that has the quarter scale ropes listed? P.S. Going to try some DMC Cordonnet No. 100 in the Ropewalk next.
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Following up with another staining experiment this time with some Artist Oil Colour in Burnt Umber, which I happen to have on hand. Made a very thin wash and applied to some of the white cordage left over from the previous test. Was the choice of material for the cordage in those days hemp? Wondering if that's the base colour one should try to simulate? P.S. The magic mending tape rapped around the tube of oil is to seal a hole punched by one of my shop attack cats.
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Grant, Thanks for the heads up on not trying to lay rope with the same twist as the previous strands. Here’s a quote from the document that Jim Byrnes sends with his Ropewalk that supports your comment. Notice that the twist in each step is opposite of the preceding step. Twisting fibers (or yarns, or ropes) together creates a “mutual friction” which does two things: 1) it holds the elements together when a strain is applied to the finished product, and 2) it keeps the finished product from untwisting itself. By twisting successive elements in opposite directions, the parts will tighten back onto themselves, which accounts for much of the ultimate strength of the rope.
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Hear, hear Joss. On the left is the left hand rope from the left hand thread from yesterday and on the right is my second attempt using the left hand thread and setting up the machine to make right hand rope. Thanks again to Grant for the good eyes and pointing out the left hand twist of the thread I am using when I had been reading it as right hand thread………. I believe there is a marked improvement with the right hand rope.
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Rocker: Thanks for that. I now have it setup here in the den. Just turn my chair around and can begin to ropewalk. Grant: Appreciate your comment and tip on the DMC Cordoned. I’ll begin a recon over the net. Not much in the way of selection in my outback area. Martin: Cheers. I decided to sell a number of items that I no longer use on e-bay and added the funds to the Ropewalk Hope Chest. A great trade I think.
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