Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - Temp Out of Stock again! ×

rwiederrich

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,084

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    In this sail-less image, the lines missing are the buntlines and the stun sail yard rigging. Still lots going on with out them. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    Indeed, I am confident you are very correct. However, my point is that the smaller the scale, the more difficult the application....just by the size and my inability to handle the material...due to shaky old hands. I see a million applications for this material...and I for one will avail myself of it for future builds. Thanks so vary much for your tutorials. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    I took one of the over all build sight...and one from on face so you can see the the 20+deg pitch to the yards. This weekend and most of next week I'll be building like mad(I pray). Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    Spent a bit of time this evening making the lower top mast. Because this design is based on Forbes and not Howes...the lower topsail has a large gin block used for hauling up the spar. I remembered that I will be adding the yards going up in sequence and THEN coming back down adding the sails in sequence. Here is a couple pix of my slow progress tonight.
  5. rwiederrich
    I find this technique very reminiscent of a technique I also used on some models....however, I I didn't grasp the realization of using this technique extensively as Doris has. Not to answer for her, but I believe real wood is used for the proper relief needed and being real wood in a desirous shade it blends in after being sealed with the dull coat. Wonderful execution. My Great Republic deck houses are smaller than her interior panels alone.....so the strips would have to be extremely thin if I were ever to adapt this technique in my scale. Still it is intriguing. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    Michael...wonderful adaptation. Looks like something I would do...oh wait......I have. I also have some high speed air dental hand pieces, I Use as well that work very good. Great ingenuity. Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    Well.... having nice sail control rigging doesn't always mean it has to be completely blocked by the sails. When sails are removed you lose some additional rigging namely the buntlines and clews. You only get to see the rigging from the aft aspect...if it is done correctly, you can still enjoy it with sails set. Rob
  8. rwiederrich
    Wonderfully done. Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    Thank you Doris for the fine examples of the direction you are going. I suspect my own lack of the exact time frame for the shift from offset bowsprits to the more traditional forward and on axis designs drove me to this line of questioning. I'm looking at the counter action created by the gammon lashing, which do their work by pulling the bowsprite in toward the midline and down toward the stem. Your picture examples show that lateral forces are applied to the starboard side of the Stem not on top of the stem(which I referred to as the *Foot*)....which in later designs became more prevalent. If the bowsprit does not find support from contact with the *Foot* or Stem...then all the Gammon lashing energy is being countered by the fore stays. Regardless....my questions have been answered, and your attention is most appreciated. Love your work. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    I appreciate that very much Popeye....effective looking sails can be some of the hardest things to replicate...and keeping the web of rigging that controls them is just as critical. Now I'm back at the beginning stages again of yard fabrication and rigging for the mainmast. Much of what I learned along the way of fabricating the foremast will truly expedite this next masts construction. Foot ropes, stirrups, and eye bolts will all be added prior to install. I'll be off work for 11 days during the holidays so I hope to get loads of work done. Thanks again for your fine comments and compliments. Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    Doris I drew up quickly, an example of the 3 possibilities the bowsprit might find itself. Key elements are noted on the drawing. My question is, from your model, the exit hole for the bowsprit would place the bowsprit off axis if you were to seat it on the foot as noted by the example on the right. if you were to keep your bowsprits termination on axis, you would follow the drawing example on the left. the middle drawing is a representation of an average. Key notes: The bowsprit is abutted to the foremast(for reasons previously noted). The real question is, will you be actually resting the bowsprit on the foot(where it usually is found) or will you be placing it along side it and allowing for it to be centered and then fixing it there? That was my entire line of questioning. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    In most instances the offset for the bowsprit was established because of the internal proximity of the foremast and the bowsprit. Because the forecastle was short and tall, the bowsprit and foremast found no room to be on axis with one another...so they did indeed offset the bowsprit by fashioning it beside the foremast. I know this,....however, in one of the images Doris took of her additional seats of relief addition...the angle of the exit for the bowsprit and the bowsprit foot is too acute...resulting in the bowsprit being exaggerated to port by almost 20degrees....from what I can tell. My original question was centered around that angle....NOT that, was that angle(Or offset) correct. I can only assume the bowsprit will be fashioned NEXT to the seat and not ON the seat... Question: Doris...will you be rigging this model with masts, yards(sails) and rigging? Rob(inquisitive minds want to know)
  13. rwiederrich
    I suspected that...but I thought I'd ask. The angle appears to be significant in relations to the distance of the hole(Bowsprit exit) from the foot. Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    The doors are magnificent...I assume they are made from the vinyl as well? One question: I noticed the offset of the bowsprit exit hole and the bowsprit foot are not aligned...is there some reason for this? Sometimes the bowsprit is laid port or starboard of the foremast because of proximity....but I would still think the exit and foot would be parallel to one another. Just noticing. Your work is so wonderful its hardly fathomable that it is made from card stock and some self adhesive vinyl laminate and modeling compound. The folks who build exclusively with wood, would have a rough time keeping up with your standard...... Just wonderful work Doris. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    Unfortunately the broken spar was almost inevitable....as the meat of the spar becomes less but the iron work remains the same. In their weakened state, with holes drilled through for jackstay eyebolts and in frequency....these slender spars have little in the way of rigidity when forcefully applying copper banding. I know this feeling myself...regrettable. If I took a picture every time I broke something or lost something in the hole that is the floor of my shop.....I would have no band width left for actual construction images. Ed your masterfully crafted YA is nearing her completion and the thrill of watching her come together leaves a giddy feeling. Wonderful. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    2 seats of ease for a hundred... requiring release from the stresses of their day....seams a bit short sighted. On the designers part.... Your model is looking superb... Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    Wonderful metallurgy.........Michael. It just keeps getting better, every time I look in....love it. Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Her...with this material it is recommended to use an iron to heat and secure the adhesive. I believe she is using the dryer in lieu of the iron. She probably heats up the area to aid in activating the adhesive. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    I have several rotary cutters...but you still need to draw it along the edge of a straight edge of some kind...to maintain evenness. I hope she pipes in and will honor us with her method... Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    Upon further investigation...I commend you on your tedious attention to the repetitious. The material you are using is exactly what I thought it was. A vinyl lament used to cover MDF and to simulate wood. It can be purchased in a plethora of colors and grains. Your extensive use of it is very evident and well executed. The only draw back for me is that you have to cut every plank/panel by hand. Cutting many strips requires good strong edges and clean even lines....you , evidently have mastered that. I appreciate your use of it as trim...molding...and edging. Painting it gold, brown, black.....whatever color you need. Wonderful! Casting the hundreds of figurines and molding, using a master mold is also quite industrious....Great Job! Now that I have a background on your technique...I see you have mastered it and the results are exquisite. Wonderful...just wonderful. Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    I am glad you expounded further for my benefit. I was not privy to your original explanation on this technique. Several questions, if I may? What is your source for these *foils*? Do they come in several widths or are you limited to the width they are made in? Do they come pre-colored and then you modify the color as you have described? If memory serves me correctly....I think this material is a self adhering vinyl....used primarily for furniture repair and for simulated wood applications. I noticed you used the material on the wood floor of the cabin you were dressing out. And a similar wood grained material on the walls. Your application of this material is nothing short of amazing. Rob(Why the hair dryer?)
  22. rwiederrich
    Now that the yards are all sized...I will begin by starting from the top(disregard the main yards progress...it was done out of sequence), first by rigging the royal yard and mounting it first, then the topgallant, and so forth and so on....... I lurnt some things...and this time.....I will fully rig the yards prior to mounting. I hope to expedite the main from experience I gathered from the previous mast. Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    I then decided to make the main yards....so I fashioned them and then decided to make the main yard...with its foot ropes and stirrups. This one has all the pad eyes installed...even the sheet chain guide and truss. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    This would be a prudent move.....I agree. However, I think I will not add the backstays until I first add some of the main stays. I want them installed inboard before I do outboard work. It will be some doing, but I agree. I opted to not do the stays tonight, but rather focus on making eye bolts for the many block connections that will be taking place on the masts as well as the yards. But first I chose to make a new tool to make this process move along much quicker. So I fashioned a hoop for my hand drill...make a collet to fit it because the stainless steel hoop wire was far to small for the drill vice. Once done I was able to knock out several dozen in no time. Here are a few pix of the job...one with a finished padeye on it....another showing the tool and still another showing the beginning process as I first begin to twist the eye(this one is not finished) Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    I may have missed this Doris....but when you mention (*foil tape*) that you used to simulate the planking...is that copper foil sticky back tape you use? And then you paint it? I never actually saw your technique in action...just the after effects. Rob

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...