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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    See...now that is the technique sensitive issue I was talking about....thanks. I've worked with Silkspan when building RC airplanes. My experience with it in THIS application always leaves the sail with micro wrinkles. Something I just wanted to avoid. Maybe I just suck at using Silkspan. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    No problem Tim....I have used tracing paper as well...especially for furled sails. Your example is extremely nice and you achieved the very look I did. Swell. One reason I chose NOT to use opaque tracing paper on the Great Republic is her sails would have been more of the heavier foul weather canvas, due to the more Southerly trade routes she was designed to travel, requiring more substantial canvas. Therefore I avoided the opacity of a fair weather set of sails. The main reason I did not use Silkspan. Your examples are wonderful. You chose to lighten your panel seams.. where I chose to darken them. Looks like a topsail schooner. Your sails look wonderful! Thanks for posting.
  3. rwiederrich
    I'll be making some changes to the topsails...but I think I'm getting there. Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    Here are some pics of the partially finished topgallant . Rob
  5. rwiederrich
    I know... what a lame duck. I have 4 clippers in various stages...the Glory of the Seas is probably the farthest along....but GR is surpassing her quickly. Probably because I took up a different methodology of mast construction with the GR....and since she is on the bench currently....I'll finish her up first. I'll have too.... because I have no other place to put her until I build her own special shelf...and she can't have my work bench and she surely can't sit in front of my clipper painting over the den mantle. So....I'm forced to finish her first...... Stay tuned....I'll be at her soon. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    Or for those stuck in the doldrums....heehee. China tea clippers(British) were famous for rigging these fine weather sails nearly everywhere on their clippers....solidifying their characteristic billows on the annals of history. Unfortunately for those who had anticipated them on my Great Republic build, I will not be including them. Sorry to all stun sail enthusiasts. Here is a picture to wet your whistles.
  7. rwiederrich
    Thanks... not quite sure were that log is....do you have a link?
  8. rwiederrich
    I'm looking for others input on the subject. Do you have a technique or method you use to create paper sails. Any tips..ie...painting...detailing....rigging...weathering...? I am forever desiring to increase my technique base. I know there are some good ideas out there.......share-em. Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    Read my remarks to Dawmer....Stun sails were not employed on the Great Republic...McKay designed her as an experiment. Her vast array of canvas was considered sufficient, especially, when her designed trade route was for a fast passing around the Horn and to Australia. In latitudes far too treacherous for stun sails. I believe Palmer added them later, but that is when her redesign brought her back to a more traditional carrier. The Great Republic was a one of a kind vessel. Extreme clipper(for speed), Ginormous(Over twice as large as any other clipper)...built like a tank to withstand the most extreme weather conditions...carried the most advanced winches and the first to carry a steam engine for lifting yards/sail and cargo. She was designed to take on the Cape and all the fury the weather at those latitudes could throw at you. Stun sails were for whooses. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    I know right....but the Great Republic didn't carry them during the period I am modeling........her expanse of sail was the largest ever placed on a sailing ship(120ft main sails)...and by the way...she wouldn't have set them on her journey down the coast from Boston to New York anyway. Not one contemporary painting or model of her depicts her with stunn sails set. I still have to rig the buntline blocks on the yard for the topgallant and I'll be finished with that yard...and on to the upper topsail. Pics will be forthcoming. Rob(I know...*it never happened* unless you have pics)
  11. rwiederrich
    Dave....so true. Many years ago after I built my third Cutty Sark model...I diverted. I refocused and began modeling period HO steam model layouts. those are a bit more diversified in their subject matter. In addition to model railroading...I build Refractor telescopes(In my machine shop area of my shop)...and I dabble in furniture making as well(In my wood working area). So...I've had to diversify my hobbies to stay interested. I'll jump into one for a time and as I finish up a project(Or not), I tend to get re-inspired, and then I'm back at clipper ship modeling(Or what-ever). I have 4 scratch builds on the ways...not to mention several telescope projects...and now my wife needs me to build her a new Maple mantle for the living room before Christmas. Hang in there, and I'll bop in and see your new log...great job. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    Here is another example of what I am trying to achieve. Slight billowing that would be expected with a ship with all sails set....Cept stun'sls Rob
  13. rwiederrich
    One other note to point out for those interested. Some might ask why not use silkspan? Silkspan is a very nice, nearly to scale material..but I have my issues with it. One; silkspan does not support itself very well, in larger portions, and therefore need some treatment. Starching or lacquering. This means the sail will need to be formed and then will need some kind of forming mold to support it while it dries. Secondly; Silkspan once painted, tends to demonstrate a crinkled or micro wrinkled texture. In larger scaled vessels this might be acceptable...even if you are modeling drying sails. Limp drying sails generally look wrinkled. However, I want smooth tightly pressed/billowed sails.... and my years of experience with paper sails shows me that they will last...especially once painted. They form very nicely and retail their shape...and being paper you can use simple white glue to make them. This images demonstrates what I'm looking for.
  14. rwiederrich
    Dowmer...The details will get even better when I add the reef bands/points to the topsails and main course. One item I need to compensate for is the length of the sail. When it is *billowed* it shortens. I didn't want my model to have just *hanging* sails, but active ones.....so it takes a bit of 3D imaginational geometry. Kinda like when I make furled sails....I never use the actual size of the sail....but a modified version.so when it is furled it looks neat and tightly and clean...not oversized and bulky. The next couple of days might be a bit slower in the yard due to family issues...but I will attempt to keep moving forward. This is just the first mast...and I have 2 others along with the for and aft rigged spanker. Smooth sailing to all. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    The paint is the preservative. I mounted the topgallant and will take pics tomorrow. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    With these particular sails I am detailing the edges and seams with pencil highlights..adding wear and tear shall we say...just enough to validate the sail, because they are supposed to be new canvas prior to that eventful night the Great Republic burned. Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    One thing I failed to mention about the panel lines on the paper. I drew them out fist on both sides...then double sided copied them over and over....and I reduced the saturation to make the lines as dim but recognizable as possible.....so all that is needed is to cut and paint(after you added the bands of course). I have enough copies to last till the cows come home. Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Once you've decided on the opacity of the panels...let it all dry then add the bunt and clew lines. Reef bands and reef points will be added only on the topsails and the main course. I will glue the sail directly to the yard...since the jackstays will typically be hidden by the bent sail...in my scale I opted to not add the detail. If the yards were bare poles..I surely would have added the jackstays. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Thanks for the fine compliments, and comment. Their construction is very simple..first you take a piece of copier paper...draw in scale all the panel lines...mine is 3/32 to 1ft. Don't forget both sides. Then you measure and cut out the sail to size. I then cut and place banding using simple white glue(dries fast). You'll have to follow the design of the period and vessel you are building. Next I form the sail by rolling it over a 1/4" dowel..working it gently and rolling it to form the billow. I then us two colors of tan/cotton paint to simulate slightly different sail colors...to add dimension and realism. I'll paint one sail slightly darker then another...if you know what I mean. Several light coats per side will do....you want the panel lines to show through opaquely. Once done you can then add the hardware for the clews and sheets. I still have to add these on this topgallant sail. Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    Some more.
  21. rwiederrich
    I tinkered on the GR today..not much because a dear friend of ours was admitted to the hospital today...she has early onset Alzheimer's and she had a Grand Mal seizure this morning and she is currently alert but unresponsive..... So I only set the foreroyal. I wanted to do more.....but we're off to the hospital now that she can see visitors. I made the paper sail, rigged it prior to install. Some of the buntlines are loose and so much more needs to be done...but I'm on my way...to setting sail. Here are some images.. Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    I don't get all that precise or technical myself....just use a brown wood glue spread out thin....roll the rope coil up in the glue, starting in the middle and working out. when I have the desired size of coil...I lay the end over the rest and with my fine tweezer slide the entire glued coil up and off the plastic placemat I was working on and then place the coil were I want it...make some final adjustments and then simply let it dry. Yellow wood glue dries clear and with the tan rigging goes unnoticed. No runs, drips ,errors. Even if there is a bit more glue on the rope then needed it all dries clear. Now on to something else to model..... Here are some I did on a model of the Cutty Sark many years ago Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    Fantastic....I'm not sure but did you ever describe your method for making the long twisted wire sheets, and halyards? I have an idea, but would like to know your method. They are quite even and clean. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Won't get to work on the GR tonight...Grandkids are coming over. but here are some pic of yesterdays work. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    Thanks Pat...very much. I failed to get some images last night, but I finished up the stirrups for the foot ropes and am set to begin adding the relaxed lifts(All the sails are going to be set) and I'll be adding the sheet blocks and their purchases for the topsails, which will be fixed to the top. I try to do projects in separate stages(Like add the foot ropes, then paint any touch-ups...etc)...it makes the build go by faster I think. And for the first time (In 40 years)I am building each mast individually, with all its yards and sails affixed. I will only leave the main yards and their courses removable..so when I step the mast I can more easily rig the main shrouds and ratlines without any interference. As I said...this is the first time I ever tried rigging a mast this way....the advantage is I can fully rotate the mast/yards apart from the hull...making the assembly and addition of new components far easier....then if the mast was already stepped and I had to work around(In my small space) the hull. Pick in up and moving/rotating to the other side would be quite annoying. I don't have the leisure of having my model on a center island where I can work around it. Rob

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