John Allen

Here is the new technique I tried.
 
Step 1 - Paint "plywood area" with a base coat of Tamiya flat white. 
 

Step 2 - Make irregular brush strokes with yellow ochre ink over the primed area.
 

Step 3 - Blend ink (after 10 minutes drying time) using a brush dampened with water and maintain irregular brush strokes.
 

Step 4 - Coat of Tamiya clear yellow.
 

Step 5 - Coat of Tamiya clear orange.
 

Step 6 - Coat of Tamiya clear.
 

In retrospect, next time I will make my ink strokes heavier and a little more profound to show the "grain" a little better. I may have gone a little too heavy on the yellow and orange clear coats. Learning experience.

I liked the Moorland setting. So I did this one .
'Cutting the Peats

Mekong Delta 
Stop and search PBR investigates a Sampan covered by a Huey.
W/C 15” X 11”

Part 93 –Jib Lazy Jacks
 
Before the Jib’s Lazy Jacks could be installed, the Jib Club needed to be stabilized.  The Jib Club Lift was seized to the middle ring of the Spectacle Iron.  The hooked Jib Sheet block was attached to the bail on the Jib Club’s band, then the sheet was run between the two blocks, up to the single block at the hounds, and then down to the starboard pin rail.  The sheet was temporarily secured in place, and the combination of the club lift and the sheet stabilized the Jib Club.
 
                        
 
The lines for the four Lazy Jacks were laid out. The aft two lines were run through holes in the Jib Club, and the forward two lines were run under the Jib and were tucked between the Jib’s wrapping line and the Jib itself – this will keep the two Lazy Jacks from moving from their locations on the jib.
 
                        
 
Working from aft forward, each Lazy Jack was seized to the outer rings of the Spectacle Iron, and after adjusting the two sides of the line for position and tension a small drop of white glue was used on each seizing to make it permanent.  (I had tried installing all Lazy Jacks at once and then tensioning them, but this was problematic – two many lines in one place).
 
The following photo shows the current status of the model – all Jib Lazy Jacks installed.
 
                        
 
The next task is to install the Main Lazy Jacks – a very different arrangement of lines.
 
 

Vossie - Thank you for the clarification.
Jeff - An interesting video - don't you hate it when they make it look that easy.
Bedford - I guess have both learnt something today.
 
After 36 hours the hull was dry enough to take the wire wool and it now has a second coat. I'm hoping that the next coat dries more quickly.
 
Apart from the lawn and the dog walk I made progress on the port holes - 30 required. As I said previously they are pretty simple. I turned them on the lathe with the inboard end facing the tail stock. 8mm brass bar was drilled out to 5.5mm and then counterbored with a 6mm milling cutter to give a decent finish to the bore. I then did a further counterbore with a 7mm end mill to a depth of 5mm. this produced a shoulder against which to push the "glass" made form acetate sheet. I then parted off the resulting "stepped tube" at 5.5m length. 
 
I needed to cut accurate 7mm diameter acetate circles so I made myself a punch out of a couple of pieces of mild steel from the scrap box. The hole bore was reamed 7mm.

In the next photo the acetate still has its protective film on both sides.

 

I have backed the acetate with off-black card circles as I found leaving the acetate without a backing somehow looked wrong.
I have to admit however that the photographs don't give a good representation of what the eye sees.

 
I was pleased to see that one of the commissioning team turned up early and took up residence in preparation for sea trials.

 

Wow Jessie, I had to look at that top photo three or four times before I realized it was your model. It looks like the real thing!
Beautiful.

Added a few more yards and a lot more rigging. 
 
Jesse
 

I don't think the feelings for the loss between a real or a foster parent will differ, so I know the pain. My sincere condolences Jesse. I wish you and your family lots of strength during this time of grief.

The next step was put two halves of the above-water part of the boat in a bottle and put them in their places and to fill in the second layer of the sea. 

Then I poured the first layer of the sea and placed the underwater part of the boat in it.

Then I made some more small details for this composition

Then I connected all the parts of the boat on the slipway

Many thanks for yours feedbacks, Josh and John!
So, the next step is to check all the parts of the model.

o Masterful work as usual, Cap'n Jack spot on. Your good really really good!

o Masterful work as usual, Cap'n Jack spot on. Your good really really good!

o Masterful work as usual, Cap'n Jack spot on. Your good really really good!

o Masterful work as usual, Cap'n Jack spot on. Your good really really good!

Keith,
 
Nice on portholes, I would have had to get a teen video gamer to drill holes. (My hands would be shaking like Don Knotts skit whos nervous I'm not nervous) be terrified of screwing up a perfect planking. Well done again.

Haha! Incredible miniature work: Belt buckle, dread locks, and a functioning scabbard!! So great!

The next important step is turning the figure into Jack. I did not have any experience with figures, so I decided to improvise

The sail is almost ready.

And again with shrouds...

Jack

And with the sail

Many thanks, Josh! 
In fact, it wasn't very difficult to make these details.

Working with small elements