herask

and this sums it all up. the ship, carvings, furniture, weapons, Nissan, everything... now you're just messing with us... 😄

and this sums it all up. the ship, carvings, furniture, weapons, Nissan, everything... now you're just messing with us... 😄

and this sums it all up. the ship, carvings, furniture, weapons, Nissan, everything... now you're just messing with us... 😄

Today I basically did the same thing as yesterday to 4 more launches. 



today the Tamiya tape worked great  I took the advice of Canute and put the tape on my jeans first,  worked like a charm too. 

Hello Rob and Mark,

Thank you very much. I'm flattered and do appreciate your kind words.  The lighting is one of my most favourite supplements in ship models and brings opportunity to see everything in the interior. I like sitting in our living room and watching illuminated ship models as if I were in the night port.
 
I use gold paint from automotive spray. I have already mentioned this earlier in my log. This is product I use:

 
 
I enjoy watching how the model looks more and more like the real Royal Katherine on Vale's painting, and it's even more impressive with the illumination. The jump into "the unknown", which I started to implement in spring of 2017, despite considerable uncertainty, is beginning to change in reality.
Here are some current pics also for your enjoyment:
 
Kind regards
 
 

Dear friends, 
I am pleased you like my work and thank you for your support and "likes".
 
 
Thank you Druxey and Albert, your words mean a lot for me.
 
Thank you Rob, 
oh yes, this larger scale brings much more opportunities for making fine details. I also enjoy building ship models in smaller scales. The sails - if you mean these ones on steam-sailing ship Napoleon in my post above, that is my new technique and I applied it first time. In fact it is quite easy to achieve such result. The sailis are made of thin fabric  - I used an old shirt from my husband, and dipped it in stong black tea with starch. The stripes are easily drawn by micro-pencil (I use softer pencil/graphite) and ruler. The reinforcement on edges is achieved by sticking another layer of fabric. Finally, the sails are over-sprayed with a flat clear varnish (I also use here my favourite Tamiya spray TS-80) and during drying are shaped. Weathering  is achieved with a special fine powder - the product of Tamiya - weathering master.

When I do other sails for my next model, I'll take some pics and post here a tutorial.
 
**************************************************************************************************
 
Today I completely remade the wiring in the model and added another circuit for lanterns on quarterdeck. Here is a LED wiring diagram that I used - in my model there are five parallel circuits - four in stern and one under the forecastle.
 


 
Best regards
 
 
 
 

Today I continued with last bulkhead in the great cabin, as usually I used card and self-adhesive foils. The back side of bulkhead is reinforced with wooden beams.
 

 
 
A view over windows into the cabin:
 

Have a great time and enjoy the pics.
 
 

 
 
 
 

Incredible! The level of detail you are able to achieve really has to make one consider the usage of different materials on a build. I have always tried to stick with wood but, after seeing what you can do with clays and foils I'm considering more and more mixing materials, especially when the appearance of the model is more important than how it is built. To be honest, if one were to just look at a random picture of your model, I don't think they would be able to tell it isn't made of wood! 

Hello Rob, 
that is right - in smaller scales is more difficult to achieve such details, but there is always a way how to make it perfect. These self-adhesive vinyl foils have the advantage that they can be repeatedly glued to the surface and modified. They also have excellent flexibility and they can copy different shapes thanks to a considerable bending potential. It is always necessary to use warm air -  it softens them and improves adhesion.
 
Here are other examples, what is possible to achieve with this material. You do not need any special tools, only fine sharp knife, a ruller and tweezers. And plenty of patience of course..... 😁
 
*outer side of the walls covered by foils:

 
*placed and sticked in the model

 
* rear part of the cabin after complete modification
 

 
Enjoy the pics and have a grat time.

hey folks! it's been a while since we posted last progress update. in the meantime I have managed to finish the hull thus completing the first two volumes of TFFM series. yay! 
 
currently doing the standing rigging, and having a blast with it.... sort of... ropes are not fun in 3D. but the ship is looking more and more beautiful with each day. can't wait to set sails... anyway, Greg gave me green light to post a few renders. hope you like!
 




 

Hello,
 
thanks for the nice comments and also for the LIKES.

At the moment I'm still practicing rope making. In the meantime, I have also made further attempts to dye the ropes.
It is still not completely satisfactory in terms of color. In a French blog I read that wax should not find use. Wax simply picks up dust.

There is still a lack of clarity regarding the conservation of the ropes.
 
For suggestions and hints I am very grateful.

Somewhere I have read that the angle between the lengthwise direction of the rope and
the strands should be about 35 °.

I will make the shrouds soon, so I hope.

I have just placed two seats of ease on the bow. Perhaps there should be other two pieces in middle section of the grating as indicated in drawings of HMS Lenox. I also continue with surface finish of the railings.
 


Kind regards,
Doris
 

Good morning.

Evening all,   I havn't been on the last couple of days  internet issue  - anyway  next stage with captain sparrows old ship  led me into the area of the rope support rods that stick out of the bulkhead protrusions,   firstly I had to carefuly drill a hole through the center of each protrusion/post, this went well with poop deck but when I did the same to the forecastle  - "upsee - daisy"  a  broke a  few posts  but always onwards  - so I just fitted some pins in anyway - they now just need paint and ropes.
 
Just a few pics -
 
OC.

Hello dear friends,
I appreciate your support and comments a lot. Thank you all very much.
Well, I tried to create all these decorations according to museum models and original paintings from 17th century.  I care about the greatest possible historical accuracy.
 
This is my own technique and I use it more than 20 years. It allows me to achieve wooden look on paper models, but also on some plastic kits - for example I can make better and more realistic planking on ship hull or decks. These self-adhesive foils are very thin, they are kind of plastic or vinyl. I have already written about this, but if you wish, I will take some pics from progress when I work with this material. Soon I will make interior of cabins and there will be used these foils as well.
Here are some links, where you can see, how I work with foils:
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=43575&start=180#p902161
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=43575&start=210#p930223
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=43575&start=240#p979994
 
Painting (with thinned Tamiya acrylic colours) is used to achieve more natural look and weathering.
 
Well, on Vale´s painting it is shown, so I am going to make them as well.
Do you mind this one?

 
Thank you, I am really pleased reading your words.
 
*******************************************************
 
Here are some current pics of RK in real colours on daylight:

 
 
Kind regards
Doris

Hello dear friends,
I am pleased reading your words, thank you all very much and also appreciate your "likes". I'm flattered by your praise.
 
 
Great, thank you very much for your help.👍
 
Hello Tom, 
no problem, I am glad I can help and share my tutorials with people here. If you have any questions, just ask.😉
 
Hello Piet, 
I really enjoy sculpting on ship models. I looked forward to making decoration since beginning of this project.
 
 
***********************************************
 
Today I finished skids/fenders on the starboard and soon I will move to cabins and under the decks... 
 
Here are newest pics, so enjoy them:

 
Best regards,
Doris

Hello dear friends, 
thank you for your comments and "likes", I am pleased you like my work.
 
That's right as well. Card/paper is my main building material for making models since I was 6 years old.
 
I like sharing my techniques with people and I am glad to help. Everything needs time and experience, my first decorations were not very good, but I continued and did not give up.  And finally I found the ways, how to do things better and have to say, there are always possibilities to improve.
I wish you great success and pleasure in making models and decorating them.
 
*********************************************************
 
Today I continued with other details on the hull - there are three external ribs ( I do not know, how to name it in English), I made them out of card and finished with self adhesive foils and thinned paint. At this moment there are completed on port.
 

 
Kind regards,
Doris

Hello Albert and thank you very much for your praise.
 
 
Would you like to go on board of the Royal Katherine?
No problem, here you have some stairs😎:
 

Best regards
 

Ab Hoving: Thank you for your praise, I appreciate your words a lot.
 
 
Well, I have just completed the entry port on starboard. There will be added wooden stairs of course. Now I am going to continue with the same work on port.
 

I will add it to the list....
 
I also managed to experiment with the mast parts.  I completed the ball truck for the top of the mast.  Its things like this that make you appreciate 1/2" scale.  The ball truck has two sheaves for the flag halliards. These were laser cut and etched for you.  But as you might guess, only on one side.  So if you want, you can add the simulated sheave slot between the two holes on the bottom of the ball truck too.  But in all honesty, I dont think anyone will see it.  I did it anyway.  You can see the unsanded version in the photo
You need to round off the edges and corners on the top  and bottom to make it look nice.  I did this after I glued it on the mast.  Its easy to rotate and twist the mast as you hold sandpaper against the ball truck to shape it.
 
Make sure you orient the sheaves on the ball truck correctly when you glue it on top.  They go parallel to each other for and aft....,one sheave to port and the other to starboard.
 

I also stepped the mast but not permanently.  On the contemporary models and in real life the mast would sit in a hole through the floorboards.  This would have been a pain in the butt!!  Lining up a hole for the mast in the floorboards even before you added the thwarts and just praying the mast would be lined up correctly.
 
So my solution was to create a thin mast step instead.  Its a little guilty simplification.  Its basically a square with a hole in the middle for the mast.  I rounded off the edges to make it look nice.  Its only 1/16" thick.  I placed the mast in position and in the mast step as the titebond was setting.  Then I adjusted the angle and straightness of the mast to find the proper placement for the mast step.  This was done before the glue sets so you have to work fast.
 

 
The mast is set straight up and down with no aft rake......having said this, I did add an ever-so-slight aft rake because when I add the forward stay, I always seem to pull the mast forward.  Knowing that I will probably do this yet again in error, I compensated for it by leaning the mast slightly aft.  It should correct itself once I rig the forward stay which will pull it forward slightly.
 

 
 
 
 
 

Hi folks.
 
A further update on my Genesis, Mega yacht model.
 
I’ve decided that her owner is a massive art-freak and has adorned his ship with a couple of pretty large arty-farty murals, as well as a fancy silver sculpture in the main saloon and a shiny glass sculpture in the aft deck, adjacent to the table and chairs.
 
I hope you enjoy these photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Today I finished the base and stand.  I used yellow cedar around the base after applying a sheet of burled veneer which was darker.  The hope was to make the boat stand out against the dark contrasting base.  I added some lettering around the base so now I dont have to make a nameplate.  Next time I will make the letters just a bit smaller but I am going to go ahead and use this one.
 

 
Chuck

I played with Fusion this weekend, tried drawing my cannon project. It takes a little getting used to, but it did create a high quality model.
 
Mark

I had planned to make the roof removable to show off the interior, but it turns out I can't. So I decided to make the four hatches with working hinges so some of the interior will be visible. Here are the first two - they work perfectly :





 
Danny

Maybe. I'll have to actually install the barrel and then make some modifications to the elevation pivot if needed.
 
Now we're really getting ridiculous. These are by far the smallest diameter tubes I've ever had to roll - a mere 0.6mm in diameter. They are the handles for control wheels, and are rolled around a 0.4mm drill bit (a 1.0mm drill bit is shown for comparison). The second pic is of three sizes of tube for the gunsight assembly, with the largest being 1.5mm diameter :


 
The gunsight and gunner's seat completed and glued in place :


 
More pieces of the breech fitted, including the catch basket for expended shells :


 
Danny