lmagna

I’m no match for Danny. 
i dont’ dare to......

Not to be started for a while, but just to let you know that Johan Scherft did another of his wonderful birds.
 
This time it is a bluethroat. I think that it is a European bird, not known in the America's or Australia. The blue is very blue indeed, size of the bird is about 'finch'
 


 
for those who want to give birdbuilding  a try: www.johanscherft.com
 
Jan

....and here's another update on Wulfie!  well....after faring on "the frame that tries men's souls",  I though I'd put equal time on her.   tackling the other wing,  I got the painting done on the turbos,  touch up paint,  the prop assemblies,  and both lights done.......they are pretty much complete now.

the stand got a coat of paint.......need to make a name tag decal for it now

I got back to obliterating those B decals on the tail fin.........I was beginning to think I should have painted them on in the first place.  using a Q tip,  a German light gray was dabbed on.......any other method would have torn the decal to shreds....flecks had already started to break away.  as in the picture I showed earlier,  they were bordered with a darker gray........I used a darker color German gray {I have such an array or gray tints now.....it's disgusting}.  I didn't dare go any further........

as you might have noticed,  I also went over the fuselage with bomber tan,  making the fading more pronounce.

from here,  I went onto the windows......cementing them in place with the window maker.

getting most of the windows in place,  I happened on one that is not in the kit.......I have nothing for it.

1:72 seems to be the perfect scale for the window maker......I filled in the missing window.  this morning I took a look to see how it had progressed.

looks a bit different than the plastic glass,  but it will have to do.  at least there is glass there.  the rest of the tail fin decals are in place........I wish Warbirds did the B decal the way they did the call numbers
the two together 
still the guns and tail gear to put in place,  and then I can close up the fuselage.  there are two bit of glass to go on the top of the nose...........but there's one bit of detail that I forgot.......I just thought of it.  I will add them today.   actually........there's a few more details,  but the last ones I can't add til the wings are in place.  one more update I think,  and this project will be finished.

a big hello as well      just all around good crazy fun here......I think my admiral is through,  keeping up with which medium I'm working in   

Thanks OC, I'm glad to be here. I thought after lurking here in non-ship I'd take the plunge and join the fun

Wonder why that is...would be easy enough to cut a notch in it, I'm assuming since you mentioned a foredeck you are reproducing the Clotilda...your way ahead now, I won't get the timberheads cut off till tomorrow

the faring process is pretty much done now......now the planking can begin.   starting with the bulwarks,  the top strakes were cemented in place.  I need to adjust the stern post on the starboard side though,  since it's off line at the stern.  as I'm fixing that,  I continued with the port side.   so far.....so good.




you can just make out the starboard side problem at the stern


...and like most models,  they design a bulkhead in the middle of the hold opening.   oh well.....closed it is   

Haven't started yet as I'm waiting for the planking, least that's my excuse...may well get into it later today...no sense delaying the inevitable 

hi there J..........man,  I hope we are!  how is your faring going?

that #3 bulkhead........it has the same problem as #6 & #7.  the good thing about it though is that I can break the bond at the deck platform and shift it over.   when I do fi get to begin planking,  I'll be using 1.8 X 5 X 880 mm planking

they come in packs of ten.....I buy it this way for good reason     given the length of this hull,  I can cut them in two and double the amount of planking.   should the hull frame be longer,  I can still do full strakes when I need to.  for this frame though...half is perfect.......it's almost the exact length {a little extra}.  I should have little waste.  this pack has 17 full strips and a few oddballs from a past planking job.

I should have enough........but if not,  I have a fair size bundle of 1.8 X 5 X 550 mm planking.

I have plenty of thin strip in various shades of annegre,  when I begin the deck planking.....but that's later.  ok........breaks over..........back to faring.......pfffffffffffffff!

You may still be able to sand a curve into your transom, just add some timber in front to make up the difference.
 
i had planed just to add additional timber heads to the bow and stern at the deck level, not sure how it will work but that’s the plan.
 
are we having fun yet

at the moment,  I'm faring the frame.......i'm finding some serious flaws.   even with finding and following the centers,  the shape of the bulkheads are very off.   with bulkheads #6 & #7,  they line up on the port side,  but on the starboard side,  they stick out like a sore thumb.  I need to sand down the contour quite a bit......that's going to seriously cut down the depth of the posts and reduce them to twigs.   the space in the deck platform showed me how much will need to be removed....looks to be about 1/8 of an inch.  I cut a couple of pieces and fitted them in to thicken the depth....they fit in the spaces.

you can see I already did it........taking down the offending overage,  that would have resulted in a monstrous bulge if I didn't.  the bow bulkheads are splayed out too much as well.  I know that some sanding is required,  thus the need for faring the hull frame......but it's pretty dramatic.  it's like they designed the frames,  to give the bow bulwarks a dual roll...protection of the deck from waves,  and to act as a breakwater.  I won't do much about it,  except cut down on the amount of splay that they have.  there is also another problem here,  but I'll get to that in a moment.......let's look at the stern.   Ideally,  I see this frame as unfinished...it's missing a few things.  I added those other two bulwark posts / bulkheads......this cuts down on the big gap between #9 & #10.  but where are the transom posts that are going to terminate the planking at the stern,  with regards to the bulwarks?  the #10 bulkhead only fits under the deck platform,  and does nothing else.  taking the #10 bulkhead and tracing it out,  I laid the #9 bulkhead over the tracing and drew in the bulwark posts.  cutting it out,  it looks like this:

after some sanding and fitting,  assembled over the #10 bulkhead,  the problem is solved.  the only thing it changes,  is that I won't be going with a curved transom.  it fits neatly under what overhangs back here and can be cleaned up with deck planking.  you can see that my faring the hull frame has somewhat rounded off the corners of the deck platform.  the hole for the rudder / tiller will be planked over to pave the way for a ship's wheel and wheel box....can't think of the name for it.   I'm half the mind to scratch a galley cabin and poop deck........knowing that it would dramatically change the specs of the boat.....aaawwwwww,  it keeps me from doing it {kick'in the can}.

it still has that slight angle that I gave it....at least      the bow is missing something too........how does the planking initiate here?   with the splay as much as it is,  there will be a gap on both side of the bow deck.  I can fix it with deck planking,  but what of the stem........how would the bow spirit fit?   

you can see how I removed some of the post splay......even broke one in the process.   there will be a fore castle deck.......instead of a capstan,  I am going to use a windlass.  I do wonder about the two anchors....since I'm emulating the brig you see on the box,  this size vessel would probably do well with just one anchor.  if anyone has some knowledge of this,  please help me out here     not sure of the proper name for this part either, I scratched up this little fork like thingie..........I still need to drill the hole for the bow spirit........I left the door open for alternate placement of the bow spirit boom.

we'll see how all this will benefit,  when I get to planking her.   I should have more by this afternoon for ya'll  

Understood, actually the only areas that would patina are those exposed to the air, right at the waterline, most likely the rest would stay a deep copper color...think old penny.

It was like that when as a teen when I first started driving. I lived in central California in the Redwoods. Nights could get pretty dark, especially in the rain! On the other hand on full moon nights when it was clear we used to try and see how far we could drive on the mountain roads with our lights turned off. Some nights when we did not come across other cars we could go quite far.

I suspect the lights we do have are also sodium vapor as cities don't like high electrical bills. I could be wrong but as I said we don't really have that many street lights compared to some cities.

I suspect that by 1934 most of the city lights in England and Europe where this car was primarily sold had switched to electric lighting. But even then, If it was anything like my street where several of the houses were built just prior to the turn of the century and the rest just after, there were not that many street lights. My block does not have even one street light. Strangely enough though we do have an alley light, though it is partly covered by the 100+ year old tree in my back yard and does not cast all that much light up or down the alley. 

Turned out really nice Jack. I still like the Future coat over the model plastic to give a painted look.
 
Did you ever think that back in those days many streets outside of major metropolitan cities were possibly not lit at all, and certainly not roads between towns and cities. It could probably get pretty dark out on a rainy night!

I think that this is the first time I have heard of Future being used directly over the plastic to duplicate a painted color. Normally you see it used as a final finish over the painted finish and decals to give a highly polished look and protective coat. Nice thinking out of the box Jack. From here it looks like it turned out well. No raw plastic look. I don't know if I will ever have a need for the technique but I will certainly be adding it to my mental tool list.
 
The worse the predicted weather, the more off the weather Guru's seem to be. They seem to take delight in standing outside somewhere bundled up to their ears predicting the end of the world as we know it. I remember one a few years ago around here that was actually standing in water that was at least one half of an inch deep claiming the sky was about to fall! It seems like there is more weather danger on the days where they DON'T predict it! It almost always seems to be worse than they expected on those days!
 
Good luck on the yacht work. possibly you guys will get it done in time for the next global cooling. 

Just what I need, another model car in my stash! Don't even think of going the yellow/black. The brown/tan has FAR more class and is much more distinguished. 

It's interesting that you are going to go with the tan and chocolate brown coloring of the box top rather than the yellow/black of the kit. Yesterday while doing some chores and running around town, my attention was drawn to what must have been a restored VW Bug with that exact same color scheme. I was impressed enough to point it out to my wife. She was not impressed at all.  It looked very refined and high end even on a Bug. It should really look good on a Mercedes.

See you can improve someone else's build. I would have never thought of painting the interior frame color from the outside! My Huey has much the same design in that the frame is clear and part of the windscreen. I was wondering how hard it was going to be to do the inside gray and the outside black. Now I know.
 
Each picture you are taking of this plane makes it look more massive than the one before. 

Luckily you took pictures before and know what the part looked like. After seeing the stuff you have already done with this little plane I am certain that you will have no problems at all. Did you at least get mug shots of the offenders so that the rest of us can be warned what they look like? 

See you can improve someone else's build. I would have never thought of painting the interior frame color from the outside! My Huey has much the same design in that the frame is clear and part of the windscreen. I was wondering how hard it was going to be to do the inside gray and the outside black. Now I know.
 
Each picture you are taking of this plane makes it look more massive than the one before. 

Ours were even simpler. The only national marking was "UNITED STATES ARMY" on the tail boom and aircraft number on the tail rotor support. I can get away with either black or yellow, or even black and yellow numbers and that is about it. Many but not all had some kind of nose art usually the unit black jack crest, a few even had more personal additions like names or artwork put on by the pilots or crew. I would like to do some of that with mine. Face it, the stuff we flew in was pretty much just plain Jane functional.

I looked up the two colors by number and the 34102 is OD and the 16440 is gloss Gull Gray. Am I doing something wrong?
 
If your aircraft were like ours no two had the exact same color of OD anyway. Even some of the parts like doors and things were a slightly different color sometimes for the Hueys.