king derelict
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Everything posted by king derelict
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Thank you very much Phil. alan
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Suddenly I seem to have reached the end of the Nate build. Taking the time to pin the head, arm and sword scabbard made all the difference. No more trying to hold everything in place and then watching it slowly fall out of place leaving a trail of half cured epoxy behind. This time things popped into place and stayed. I've added the spurs, and scabbard. The face piece for the helmet was a bad fit and needed a lot of filing to get it to slot into place the nose guard and helmet piece are very delicate but they stayed intact. The base was gussied up with Woodland Scenics grass and foliage. If he is supposed to be at Edgehill that was in October so the grass is starting to die and lose its green. I reworked the hair with Vallejo Cork Brown and didn't like the uniform colour so I dry brushed it with Yellow Ochre and I think its better. I think I have read that blonde hair is even worse to paint. I still have a few more A-G figures on the shelf and the interest is still strong so I think I will try another one to distract me from the Argosy when it gets annoying. Thanks for looking in, for the likes and the helpful comments. Alan
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I can't believe how much time I have spent fiddling with the prop tips. It hasn't helped that the Ammo acrylic red seems to be flaking off. I'm try the Tamiya version next. I had a thought for the white stripe. One of the paint schemes that Mikro Mir provided decals for involved fairly large white lettering. I started butchering the X, P, $ and ) to get small straight bits and tried them on the blade tips. It looks promising although I will have to touch up the red. Its just occurred to me - I am going to have to repeat the same exercise on the back side of teh props. Oh well. Thanks for looking in, the likes and the comments Alan
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Thank you very much OC. I'm starting to get an itch to do a figure in full armour. I will have to look back at the Art Girona catalogue Alan
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Hi Craig From what I have read Fiennes command a troop of cavalry at the Battle of Edgehill so I'm guessing this figure is representative of that time. He certainly isn't marching far in those boots. It sounds like plate armour was still pretty effective in the 17th century and infantry still wore a breastplate but it must have been a hot and heavy thing to put up with. The paint is Ammo Acrylic F-552 Red Leather. It is part of a six colour pack intended for face painting. I use it for the lips mostly but it was perfect for those boots. Alan
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It was another opportunity to revisit one of your great works OC. There is so much going on in this diorama and every detail is superb. Figures, vehicles and the planes its all great. Alan
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Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
king derelict replied to yvesvidal's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
A lot great, tidy work there Yves alan -
Thank you Mike They seem to be quite short projects and work well around other work Alan
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Thank you very much Ken Each figure has its new challenges but its greatly enjoyable Alan
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More glazes and detail painting added and we seem to be moving right along here. According to the notes the breastplate and helmet rivets and decoration is gilded. I had read somewhere that Tamiya transparent orange acrylic looks like gold when painted over polished metal so I thought I would try that. I really like how it came out, in this instance probably better than opaque gold paint. It is also easier to get the light touch needed for the rivet heads. The face is a work in progress. I am trying for lighter skin tones and hair colour and its harder than painting dark hair. For some reasons the moustache is being awkward even though it is well sculpted. The traditional cat hair seems to have arrived too. The beard is definitely going to get reworked. Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments Alan
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Thank you OC. Its interesting history. Near where I used to live in Derbyshire there is an old manor house that still has a Civil War cannonball embedded in one of teh outer walls. Alan
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Thank you very much Craig. Each one is a learning experience and I am starting to build up some of the tricks that make it easier. They really are a lot of fun to paint. Alan
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Some minor progress tidying up a few details and adding the red stripe decals after finding them documented in a couple of photos.. I added the props and started painting the red tips. I think there is supposed to be a white stripe in the middle of the red but that may be a little tricky. The props were a source of frustration. They were heavily covered with flash and are very delicate at the inboard end where the blade meets the hub. In spite of best intents I boke a blade off two of them and its far to small an area to effect a reasonable repair. The kit provides a second set of props for (I think) an earlier standard with thinner rounded blades. I clipped the tips slightly to square them off so they are a touch thinner than the real deal but I can't think of a better solution. Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments Alan
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Thank you very much Mike. Its easier with the 1/700 ships that you can mount on a pill container or similar to have a solid place to hold. I get focussed on exactly positioning something and fingers wander and always seem find something to damage. THe front part of the booms are going to be the safest place I think. Alan
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Super nice wall mount. Great imagination and beautifully executed alan
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The last two days have been spent decalling the model. A lot of small decals widely spread across the plane. I thought it was best to do them before the PE because holding the model after the PE is going to be delicate. Actually I had to do the decals in several sessions for the same reason. The Mikro Mir decals are very nice. They don't have a lot of extra carrier film, they slide off the backing nicely and seem well registered. I had to go back to photos of the real thing several times because the kit instructions for placing the decals didn't always seem sensible and are probably wrong in places. I went with the photos I need to tidy up the anti-glare black below the cockpit windows, then another satin coat to seal everything followed by the props and onto the PE. I plan to try to weather it quite heavily after the PE is on. A better shot to show the struts holding the ramp Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments. Alan
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Thanks Mike The instructions didn't mention being a tail sitter or adding weight. I tried some weight in the cargo pod (there is nowhere else to put it) before adding the doors and I needed about 15 grammes. Which took up a lot of room. I was toying with making it look like cargo but decided I could probably strengthen the ramp and use that to keep the tail up. Its a complete contrast between the two builds. Lots of struggling and bad language with teh Argosy (but its starting to look quite nice now) and the figure painting is all calm and reflective. Very soothing and enjoyable. Alan
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The directional shading with white over the black primer is done and the first glaze coat has been applied. The Argosy has been occupying most of the recent days. Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments Alan
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Thank you very much Mike. The excellent sculpting by Art Girona helps a lot along with the glazing technique demonstrated by the Nightshift YouTube. The sculpts have excellent folds in clothing and the glazing really brings it out. Alan
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The fire extinguisher is exquisite. Alan
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Hi Mike Thats a great idea. Mutual support may be the deciding factor for the Felixtowe kits and I could use the push to make the commitment. I've liked the Roden vehicle kits but the Condor was not one of their best. It was also my first attempt at 1/144 scale which probably didn't help. Thank you so much for the detail about filling gaps. I appreciate the time it must have taken to compile the information. I have ordered some thin plastic card to try next time. The Mr Dissolved Putty shrank considerably and needed several applications. It did sand down nicely though. I think I would have been better off with shaved down plastic card. I am a bit cautious about CA; the fumes tend to bother me if I use it a lot but I have now got some Bob Smith Gold odourless CA and that does seem to be something I can use. I will try it on the next gap. Thank you also for the advice on metallic paints. I really liked the ease of using the Vallejo Metallics and they look quite good. I need to really improve my game with the priming to ensure I get a really smooth surface to work from. It is amazing how much there is to learn in this hobby. So many techniques and I am very grateful that people are so happy to share. Alan
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Thanks OC. The figure sculpts make the work a lot easier and they do look great. I really enjoy watching the figure develop as I paint it. Alan
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I opened the box while I was waiting for some glue to set on the Argosy and somehow I started to fiddle with the bits - and here we are off again. I'm trying a few ideas to see if I can make life easier. The weight of the parts makes it hard to get the components to adhere even if you leave the glue to almost set. If I paint the components separately and I'm gluing up the painted parts its really easy to spoil the paintwork; especially with epoxy glue. so I have drilled the neck and hands and added 0.5 mm brass rod which has been epoxied into place in one half of the joint and the fit and position checked satisfactorily for later. A few more cast lines to remove on this one but nothing too bad. A lot more polished metal too and again I would rather polish the kit metal instead of painting it. Based on a suggestion by @Jack12477 I decided to try a mini engraver / polisher and a few wooden shafted cotton buds. With jewellers rouge they made quick work of it and got into the corners well. Everything not polished then got a coat of Mr Metal primer hand painted on The polished parts of the body were masked and a coat of Mig One Shot black primer was air brushed on Next will be the directional white primer to provide a base for the glazes. Thanks for looking in and I hope you enjoy another metal figure. Alan
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The last few days have been spent in a serious tussle with this one. Two related issues really. 1 - She is a serious tail sitter and needs a lot of weight up front. 2 - How to pose the clamshell door open in a reasonably robust fashion. I decided the weight issue could be resolved if I could get the ramp strong enough; then the aircraft would be held up at teh back by the open door. I tried drilling the doors and inserted brass rods to hold them open and was unsuccessful although I did break several of my nice new DSPIEA drill bits. I think they were the same as the ones originally used to drill circuit boards. After a lot of puzzling it occurred to me to replace the very thin plastic struts / actuators in the kit with brass rod and that worked a treat. I drilled into the back of the fuselage a fair way so I could adjust the rods to make sure the ramp pushed the nosewheel back onto the ground. It seems to have succeeded. The doors were a horrible fit as well but that was a relatively minor annoyance Doesn't really show the rods I'll try again. The next task is a gloss coat and the decals. I think I need to add them before the PE makes it very difficult to handle the model. Ooops - after the gear doors and the door hinges. I'm hoping this is the last major structural fight. Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments. Alan
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I have the Felixstowe by Roden along with a Gotha. I have no idea what I was thinking. They look like being a serious challenge. Especially as I have trouble with rigging a ship Alan
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