Fernando E

Hello,  I am a 1:35 scale armor modeler wanting to start wood ship building. Ive done a few plastic ship models years back.  I have really enjoyed some of the forums on the builds.....great stuff! And many experienced builders on here that  I hope I can learn from.

Finally have the skylight together. I like windows as an architectural detail for whatever reason, so I really wanted it to be a nice point of visual interest on the deck. Still not sure if the bars are historically accurate, but I like them. The glass is 2mm plexiglass that catches the light nicely. I painted the interior sides white and added a flat black bottom to create an illusion of an actual opening in the deck. It works because it's hard to see too much in there with the bars. Hard to appreciate in the photos below because the light is catching the windows.

Hi all,
 
I've taken a small break from my M1-24D Hind helicopter to make a present for my Admiral. It's a paper kit of the Cape Byron Lighthouse in NSW Australia. Here's a pic of the real thing :

 
The kit is published by HMV (Germany) in 1:250 scale. The kit also has three other Australian Lighthouses, but I probably won't make them unless I find myself "kitless" at some stage.
 
The kit is well printed and designed, even with the use of tabs. All the parts so far have fitted perfectly. The instructions aren't the best, but workable. The card it is printed on is good quality, although with a touch too much of a "plastic" feel when folding it. This makes crisp folds a bit more difficult than usual. I also bought the optional laser-cut sheets which contain some really tiny parts and some great-looking mesh railings :


 
These pics are from the kit of a finished model :



 
First thing to make is the base, which has grassed areas and a car ramp :





 
The windows are recessed to give a feeling of depth :


 
The lower section :


 
A decorative moulding is on each external corner :



 
Danny

Joined up a couple of weeks ago so thought I had better say Hi.
A life long modeller building models ranging from ships to helicopters.
Since retiring I have kept busy building a live steam traction engine.
This project should be finished in 18 months or so, in the meantime I am indulging in researching which ship kit to see me into my dotage (a few years yet I hope)
A Chris Hatton design seems t be the front runner at present.
 

Hi James - I've remodelled my decking layout up at the bows having spent a little more time studying the cut-away sketch.
 

Complete re-build of the windlass as the cut-away seems to show it having it's "support" as a beam dropping down through the crew quarters and a number of period windlass' have the extra belaying pins mounted as I have. In addition I reversed the sliding hatch cover for the crew access as it didn't seem to work the way it was originally. I also had to move both the cat-head and bowsprit stays so that the anchors could in fact be hoist properly (unlike the model plans). Waiting on stuff from Cornwall Model Boats to finish the carronades and one or two other items towards the stern. Apologies if I have hijacked your thread but I thought this may save you some head scratching down the line. 😞
 
Rick 

I have cut out and attached the two rails from basswood sheet. I was able to make these in one piece and managed not to break them as I shaped them. I started by cutting out the pieces oversize then sanded the inside curve to fit. I used a compass to mark the outside curve using the inside edge as a guide. I then cut this out a little oversize and sanded the outside edge to the line. I then glued them onto the hull using medium CA, and will do a final sanding once they are dried. The port side especially needs to be thinned a little more. I will then prime and paint them the same green as the trim pieces. 

Just wished to say hello,  Have been away for awhile again.  But I have retired and have cleaned out the work area to again go into the daunting task of ship modeling.  I enjoy working with the traditional materials of wood and card.  Thank you for letting me be a member of this site.
Rick

So here is how the trim pieces came out. I touched up the green paint on the ends and I still have a little touch up of the white paint near them at the ends. I have the templates made for the rails so now I need to cut them out of 1/16" basswood sheet. 

Danny.....congratulations and a well deserved recognition of your work! 
 
Cheers.........Fernando 

Danny.....congratulations and a well deserved recognition of your work! 
 
Cheers.........Fernando 

Danny.....congratulations and a well deserved recognition of your work! 
 
Cheers.........Fernando 

Danny.....congratulations and a well deserved recognition of your work! 
 
Cheers.........Fernando 

July 12, 2019


 
Deck Fixtures


 
This build log entry covers the fixtures (or deck furniture as Fernando calls them!) on the decks.  Given the conflict between finishing the deck and attaching the fixtures, I decided to build all the fixtures attaching the ones that I could where it would not create a problem when it came time to finish the deck.  For example, I attached the anchor davits and cleats to the foredeck, but I did not attach the ladders to the foredeck, as I needed to finish behind them.


 
Since I was doing so much work on the deck, I decided I needed a better holding mechanism for the full.  I added an angled brace to the keel in the front and a rubber band in the back to push it against the brace.



 

The first brace did not hold up, so this is version 2.


 
There are a lot of pieces for this part of the project, so I used egg cartons to store the completed pieces until I was ready to install them.  This way I could keep them in order and tell starboard fixtures from port fixtures.


 

For all the posts in the fixtures, I added pins to help hold them in place (another recommendation by MSS).  This includes the binnacle, the belay pin racks around the masts, and the balusters for the railing around the quarterdeck.


 

To drill out the belay pin racks, I created a die from balsa wood so that the holes would be properly positioned and evenly spaced.  I used this technique for all the belay pin racks.


 


To try to make sure that the hatches and skylight moldings were square, I glued them together inside the square corner of a box.  I put wax paper underneath so that the fixture would not get stuck to the box.


 

In order to be able to drill the balusters for the quarterdeck railing, I created another die that would mark the center of the baluster so that I could drill it (there was not a lot of room for error on the baluster!).

 

Here is a completed set of balusters for one side of the railing.  I marked the top and bottom of the railing while side by side to ensure uniformity in baluster placement.  I used the end of a brad in the hand drill to make the corresponding holes in the railing and deck for the pins.  This same technique was used on the other fixtures with pins.


 
Here are the decks with everything installed before the finish was applied.  The green tape masks off areas for gluing on fixtures that will be added after the finish.


 


… And here are the decks after finishing of the deck and the remaining fixtures, then installing everything.


 


·        Anchor davits, cleats and bowsprit belay pin rack on the foredeck

·        Binnacle with bell, ladders, foremast belay pin rack, forward belay pin racks and cleats and the forward hatch on the main deck


 

·        Second and third hatches and lifeboat cradles


 

·        Pump, mainmast belay pin rack, middeck belay pin racks and cleats and forward skylight


 

·        Middle skylight, ladders to the quarterdeck, helm and hatches to quarterdeck on the main deck

·        Quarterdeck railing (including belay pin rack), aft skylight and davits for aft lifeboat on quarterdeck

 
Note:  The kit provided windows for the three skylights, but was short two windows for the second skylight.  I made up the remaining two windows using extra window in the middle window fore and aft, as they are the hardest to see (normally!).


 

Build time to date – 319.75 hrs: 61 hrs for the work in this build log entry.


 
MSS - Model Shipbuilding Simplified by Frank Mastini


 

 

 

So I think the great rudder saga is wrapping up. The new hardware came in, along with some drill bits for the Dremel tool. I cut the bracket pieces to length (which lopped off one of the two holes), then drilled a new hole with the Dremel tool. Got them attached and painted, then mounted the whole thing onto the boat. The nail heads are the heads of sewing pins. Getting the whole thing attached to the boat was trickier than I thought and isn’t the neatest job (you're seeing the more photogenic side!) I wish the DVD covered that a bit more, or maybe I missed it? On the transom, you can see the notches I cut out to fit the stern davits.

Here's the modified companionway. Lowered and flattened as per the sketches.
 

... and dropped in to place but not yet glued. I may have some more work to do here when I've clarified how a flying gaff is rigged, possibly more cleats for rigging.
 

 
Rick

Hi.
Another update on the build.
The stern section. The Tudor Rose is a wood carving from E-Bay.. More timbers to be added to this area later on.

 
 

 

 

 
The Beak area. as you can see in progress at the moment.

 
 

 
Ladders are not glued yet as I have more work to do in the deck first.

 

 
 
Not 16 century and a tad small... OK he is 5' 1" high.. Easy solved.

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Not a lot to say.. Sorry but that's me.
Regards Antony.
 

Lovely looking paint job Tom.
 
Cheers........Fernando   

Lovely looking paint job Tom.
 
Cheers........Fernando   

I gave the hull bottom another coat of black paint, then removed the masking tape. I had just one spot at the stem that I had to touch up with white paint. I gave the trim pieces three coats of green paint so now I was ready to start adding them.
I started on the port side because I plan to display this model from the starboard side, so this was a good side to practice on. I glued the first trim piece under the port scuppers using medium CA. I started at the forward scuppers and worked my way back to the last scupper, trying to keep the trim piece in a fair line and right under the scuppers. I then glued the forward part of the trim to the stem, using a clamp at the end to get it tight at the stem. I trimmed the aft portion to fit into the stern post, then glued and clamped the aft section.

I was really concerned how this was going to come out but I am pretty happy so far. We will see how it looks after I take the clamps off later.

Hi all from hot Florida! I’m originally from Stonington, Connecticut and now live the retired life in Florida. I sail Soling OM RC boats with the local club and have built 3 of them and 2 RC powerboats, the last of which was a scratch built model of a Stonington Fishing Dragger. I am presently working on a model LN Tug which is a kit from Dumas. I do keep adding details to the Dragger and have a display stand for it on the plan table. I admire the detail that many folks have put into their models. Here are some photos of my RC models that have been created:

Hello all. Thank y'all for accepting me into your community of ship builders. I am new to ship building. I received my first ship kit yesterday. It is the Occre Buccaneer. I will be starting this kit in a week or so. I would welcome any tips that y’all might have for me. Thanks again folks. 

Hi Antony
 
Really coming along and already looking beautiful.
 
Cheers............Fernando 

I'm procrastinating getting back to the rudder and played with the skylights. Not sure if I'll get much else done this weekend. We'll see.

Thanks for the input...helpful to know I'm on the right track. I've got some .51 brass bars that I'm going to attempt to mount lengthwise, I just have to figure out exactly how to mount them. 

I have applied three coats of diluted black paint on the hull bottom and I will probably add one or two more. I also primed the four trim strips, which will be painted green before gluing to the hull. I stuck them in a chunk of balsa wood to hold them while they dried.