Jump to content

mnl

Members
  • Posts

    82
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I looked through a few references and most of what I found was that rake was because it looked good. As far as square rigged ships go, you can look here: https://www.cambridge.org/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/783FD78DE365F79DC6C5DA209CF6A971/S0373463323000103a.pdf/selected-issues-of-optimising-parameters-on-square-riggers-to-maximise-speed.pdf Interestingly the word rake does not appear in the document above.
  2. At least some people do change rake going up or down wind. A Star will have the mast raked several feet forward of vertical going downwind. You do need to be careful as shrouds and backstays start to lose geometric efficiency as the mast goes forward of vertical. I expect this has a lot to do with rake for a square rig. It makes it easier to set up shrouds. The yards require clearance to swing so the shrouds have to be somewhat behind the masts which reduces their effectiveness for athwartship support. If the mast is raked, the shrouds will be closer to ninety degrees to the mast at the attach point and provide better support.
  3. Mast rake is just another knob that is useful in rig tuning. Generally as the breeze comes up a little more mast rake improves things. This is especially true for a Marconi rig where it allows you to twist off the top of the main to depower the rig and reduce heel. It generally isn’t the first control you reach for as it changes other things like shroud tension. There are a lot of other variables that factor in such as the amount and location of draft in the sails. If the sail is cut with the draft forward then a little more rake may be required to bring the center of effort back to where it belongs. Another variable is the trim of the hull. If the trim is a little more down in the stern then the rake may need to be adjusted to add or reduce weather helm. A little weather helm is good, but too much is slow. You need more rudder and hence induce more drag.
  4. Find a good used Electro Mechano or Dumore drill press. You will be very satisfied.
  5. Making shorter straighter sections will be a big help. You will want to make a sled to hold it on the table saw. It must be clamped very securely before you try and feed it or it will go flying.
  6. Looks to be a water color. This effect is fairly common in that medium.
  7. See brinelling bearings for what happens if you use a hammer.
  8. Please do not use any hammer on the top of your spindle. The bearings will not like it. You will notice there is a small gap between the top of the chuck and the spindle. They make wedges specifically to separate Jacobs tapers. http://www.jacobschuck.com/Wedge-Set/52.html
  9. It looks like the stern chase guns would impede the tiller range of motion. Also one view seems to show a tiller and a wheel while the side view shows only a tiller, and one that seems to be raised for convenient use.
  10. Got an email from the preorder company pushing delivery back to 15-30 Sep. Don’t hold your breath.
  11. How about something completely different: New York 32: https://newyork32.org or Q Class: https://qclassyachts.com/index.html Both classes of very nice, successful racers from the 0's to the 30's, and still racing today. Lines and design rules are easily available. Best regards, --Michael
×
×
  • Create New...