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  1. And sometimes you find them in the oddest places, from the eponymous "Ship Rock" NW of Kharga Oasis, ~200Km from the Nile as the crow flies.
  2. I don’t know. I have a range from ~4”x6” down to about a quarter of that. Some were bought as scrapers, others are just some high carbon steel, sheared to convenient size and heat treated.
  3. I have both violin planes and scrapers. I think the scrapers are much better suited to working on spars. They are much more tolerant of twisty or uneven grain, much less likely to pull up a big chip. Also, you can easily work in either direction, something you can rarely do with a plane.
  4. It is all a matter of engineering. The first consideration is unless the spar is really strong you don’t want much load at the partners. That represents a big stress concentration and will break it if the load goes up too much. Say if you are running and get hit with a big puff. Then it is supporting the rest of the rig to keep it in column. This assumes a wooden spar, I have rarely seen any of those pictured with prebend. I also think the load cases work much better if the spar is more or less in compression. Again, think about the case of getting hit with a big puff. Now that the
  5. Well they might have been able to let it a little farther forward. Forward is fast, at least until the rig comes down. The idea is the sail becomes an airfoil from top to bottom.
  6. A Star going downwind. Note how the rig is allowed to go forward.
  7. The Star has no permanent backstay. You can see the runners coming down about halfway down the cockpit. Upwind it is used to control the shape of the mast and hence the shape of the sail. The mast has prebend so if you pull on the intermediate backstay it will add draft to the main and increase power. If you pull on the upper it will twist off the top of the main and depower the main. The main by itself will hold the rig up. Even on a fairly close reach the leeward backstay has to be released so the main can go out. Downwind it is an entirely different story. The backstays
  8. Don’t let the nozzle put you off, just make one. I did for all my big machines, sheet aluminum or thin plywood.
  9. I was thinking of this one at $350 https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/festool-ct15e-hepa-dust-extractor.aspx To put it in perspective, a HEPA Meile vacuum cleaner, also nice a quiet, is $699.
  10. I think Festool may make the quietest dust extractor, and HEPA filtration to boot. I have been thinking about getting one. There are a couple of dual speed models that advertise 62db low and 72 db normal. I think Fein may also have something in that ballpark. Of course a high end vacuum cleaner will do about the same. Just be advised none of those are inexpensive options.
  11. Can't help you for Victorian, but the Star Class has used tracks for shrouds for a long time. Tee track mints on the boat and the shroud adjuster mounts to a car that slides on the track. Taking the rig down is easy, let it go forward, pull the pins and slide the cars off the tracks. The best thing is that when you put it back up again it is still tuned or very close to it. In the photo the from pin is covered with tape to prevent the jib sheet from catching.
  12. If you want something serious, consider a granite square, something like this: https://www.penntoolco.com/precise-15-x-10-x-1-5-precision-granite-square-303-177/ good for 0.0001”/6”
  13. I have the Hegner. I consider it without peer. It is dead quiet and very smooth. It takes either scroll saw or jewelers saw blades.
  14. The easiest blanks to source are M2 which is considered to be an oil hardening steel, although for such a small section it will cool before it can make it from the flame to the oil. Daniels shows a pointed form for nonferrous and and rounded form for hardened steel. Drawing the temper will also be interesting. I plan on using my pillar drill as it is easy to get 300-500 rpm that he recommends for brass. It also has a very sensitive feed. It has a Albrecht chuck that holds down to zero.
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