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mnl

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  4. mnl
    Looks to be a water color. This effect is fairly common in that medium.
  5.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: How to "unstick" this chuck from the mill spindle?
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  12. mnl
    See brinelling bearings for what happens if you use a hammer.
  13. mnl
    Please do not use any hammer on the top of your spindle. The bearings will not like it. You will notice there is a small gap between the top of the chuck and the spindle. They make wedges specifically to separate Jacobs tapers. http://www.jacobschuck.com/Wedge-Set/52.html
  14. mnl
    Herreshoff New York 40 (not the more modern version)
  15. mnl
    It looks like the stern chase guns would impede the tiller range of motion. Also one view seems to show a tiller and a wheel while the side view shows only a tiller, and one that seems to be raised for convenient use.
  16. mnl
    Got an email from the preorder company pushing delivery back to 15-30 Sep. Don’t hold your breath.
  17. mnl
    PM sent on Sea Ordnance.
  18. mnl
    Renaissance Wax
  19. mnl
    How about something completely different: New York 32: https://newyork32.org or Q Class: https://qclassyachts.com/index.html Both classes of very nice, successful racers from the 0's to the 30's, and still racing today. Lines and design rules are easily available. Best regards, --Michael
  20. mnl
    Shamrock V displaces 146 tons. There is a rule of thumb that for a racing yacht the breaking strength of the shrouds should be equal to the displacement. A quick check of a wire rope table says 2” wire rope is 320,000 lbs, close enough. At your scale that would be 0.025”. I don’t know if they were using rod rigging yet, but that would obviously be a little smaller. I doubt they had gone to oval cross section yet to reduce windage. The pictures of Shamrock in the present day are all clearly rod rigging.
  21. mnl
    The Cameron is a nice unit. There are other options from Dumore and Servo. On the used market if you can find an Electro Mechano they are very nice.
  22. mnl
    You are within 0.001” with a pair of calipers. Have you checked it with a standard? That to me is a pretty good measurement. You need to be using a micrometer, and if you are measuring to that level of precision you need one that will read to 0.0001”, something like Brown and Sharpe, Starrett, Mitutoyo, or Elaton. Even with those measuring exactly across the flutes is hard. As far as quality goes, McMaster, MSC, Travers are all fine. Anything you get from any of them will be fine. If you are planning on drilling 316 stainless or Ti all day then selection matters. Do not buy carbide unless you have a CNC machine, you will only break them. Lastly, all drill bits flex and wander, so the hole will be larger than the drill, even if the flutes are perfectly ground. To get a minimum size hole you need to spot with starting point exactly concentric to the drill body. Most drill chucks are not concentric at that level, except maybe a small Albrecht chuck. Both the spotting drill and the drill need to be held in the appropriate collet. The feed pressure on the drill also needs to be just right so that it cuts, but does not have an excess bending moment.
  23. mnl
    A double block would be the most efficient way to deal with it. It would also provide the fairest run for each line.
  24. mnl
    DHL often has much better international rates. I’m surprised more people don’t use them. If I had to ship international I would call them first.
  25. mnl
    Certainly not tactically. My impression of these boats is they mostly drag raced. Not going to have a gybing dual to try and break cover.

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