DenPink

Hi John
 
Re glue, Don is correct , I use Titebond wood glue on the edges of each plank with a spot of thick CA on the frames.
I also use bulldog clips to hold the planks together, at the stern and bow I use curved forceps on the planks this is for first planking only ( you have used filler blocks at the bow so you cannot use them ) .
 
 
Denis

Hi John
Re what type of wood glue to use, that is a hard question to answer.
 
Some model builders like plain old PVA glue from the local hardware store.
Others like Titebond as it is very strong and dries faster than other PVA glues, but that is just my opinion and that may not count.
 
Some model builders use a combination of PVA and CA.
There is no set rule on what you should or should not use.
In the end it is what works for you and you alone.
 
Sorry I cannot help you more than that apart from just take your time and have fun.
Remember a mistake is not a failure it is just a learning curve to make us better builders of models.
 
All the best.
Denis.

Hi John
 
Re glue, Don is correct , I use Titebond wood glue on the edges of each plank with a spot of thick CA on the frames.
I also use bulldog clips to hold the planks together, at the stern and bow I use curved forceps on the planks this is for first planking only ( you have used filler blocks at the bow so you cannot use them ) .
 
 
Denis

Weld-bond is a general purpose white PVA which will dry clear.  Tite-Bond is a yellow wood glue PVA.  I find that I can get a quicker and stronger 'set' using the tite-bond, so I use it the vast majority of the time, while the Weld-bond requires a much longer clamping time in my experience.  Either should give a good result though.
 
I even use normal Elmers white school glue for a lot of things, like making the 50/50 glue/water mixture for securing rigging and rope coils.  It will also work fine for securing wood to wood.
 
In the places that I do use CA for securing metal to wood, a good epoxy like Mark suggests is the best choice, but make sure you never want to remove it!  I generally avoid epoxy just because I don't like dealing with the mixing and smell.

Hi John, she is looking good. I use a combination of weldbond and medium ca. I'll put the weldbond(white glue) on the edges then dots of medium ca and white glue on the surface. Doing this requires less clamping, and I have always had good results.

Hi John
 
Re glue, Don is correct , I use Titebond wood glue on the edges of each plank with a spot of thick CA on the frames.
I also use bulldog clips to hold the planks together, at the stern and bow I use curved forceps on the planks this is for first planking only ( you have used filler blocks at the bow so you cannot use them ) .
 
 
Denis

Hi John
 
You are doing a great job so far, keep up the good work.
 
Good luck with your planking, take your time.
 
 
Denis.

Hi John
 
You are doing a great job so far, keep up the good work.
 
Good luck with your planking, take your time.
 
 
Denis.

Thank you dear friends for the "Likes".
 
David, yes, the ply panels had both horizontal and vertical curves. While very thin it was surprisingly stiff. During the dry fit I experimented with suitable fasteners to ensure a tight fit in both planes. My locator holes were marked so once the glue was applied it was easy to get the pieces where they belonged. Sixty minute epoxy was used to allow ample time for adjustment.  I am satisfied with the result.
 
Brian, thank you for checking in. I am most pleased to welcome you aboard and look forward to checking out your own projects.
 
Doc, thank you for commenting. I continue to be in awe with your build.
 
Denis, yes, liners would not work for the small cannons fore & aft but to my eye are suitable for all the mid ship positions. I believe I'll like their appearance when the final planking is applied.
 
All the intended liners are in position and painted now. 
 
As I've seen others do in similar circumstances I have constructed a mount to hold the hull securely for planking and used soft ribbed rubber strips on the edges that are in contact with the ship.
 

 
I have a days tasking to make minor adjustments in the stem area, recheck fair lays, then begin the first planking. With no planking experience but having read the work of dozens of the rest of you and also studying many different techniques I plan to approach the first planking with the attitude that it is the final planking. Clearly, reading about it and doing it are vastly different. I want to do this so that my final planking with good wood and that I want to look nice isn't in point of fact my first attempt.
 
To that end, when I do the first plank layer I plan to use David Antscherl's dissertation and line off the hull in a suitable number of five plank bands. I'll do the same for the finish layer.
 
Can there be a suitable reason to not go slowly and learn?
 
Respectfully,
John Maguire
Cougar Mtn. Shipyard
 
PS: two of my other hobbies (ham radio and bikes)
 

 
 

Vince, pretty difficult to assess the position of your top rail from the photos above but I thought I would throw in the attached photo which could/ should serve as a guide to the top rail/ grate positioning. The photo does not clearly show the fact that the grate frame is almost totally above the top rail mid-way along. The drawings in side view do not show any of that frame - it seems to me that some will be visible however the rail is curved. In the end, you have to go with what you produce. I have a large data bank of photos to assist in your interpretation of this ship, so if there is any hiccup, send me a PM and I could send a few photos.
Pete

Actually, Kevin and others, the Euromodel kits uniquely allow you to work at many different levels of difficulty. What you are seeing on MSW are some very skilled builders - like KeithW - who are 'pushing the boundaries' and thoroughly enjoying what they do. So what is presented is not the standard level of build. Their work in milling out the windows is a high skill level BUT many, many completed Euromodel ships (and others) simply have the solid window panes painted over. It does not have to be complicated !
 
Have a look at the Euromodel photo gallery and you will see what I mean - every ship is shown there in quite some detail. I don't think any of those displayed models have their windows milled out. There are just so many things you could do to enhance these models. While on their site, notice they are having a really big discount on all their models.
 
Pete

Hi Mark
 
Nice planking well done.
 
Denis.

Finishing up with adding the remainder of the head rails. After placing the rails, I noticed that the top rail was curved so that it was way out from the lower rails. This would make the head timbers uneven and at a impractical angle. I had to remove the top rails and completely rebend them so they followed the curve of the lower rails more closely. Since they were already painted, using a torch was not a good idea. I had to bend them by hand, very carefully and slowly so as not to break them. The last photo shows the top rail hugging the hull more closely. Another mistake I learned from. Installing the rails from the bottom up would make more sense.
 
Vince P.

Hi Nenad
 
Re cannon and CA glue Acetone will soften the CA but not sure how it will react on the roof finish.
 
Denis.

I like the methodical approach you're taking, Nenad.  It's paying off with the pieces you're making.

Hi Nenad
 
Re cannon and CA glue Acetone will soften the CA but not sure how it will react on the roof finish.
 
Denis.

Hi Nenad
 
Re cannon and CA glue Acetone will soften the CA but not sure how it will react on the roof finish.
 
Denis.

Hi John
 
Nice to see you back on your build again.
 
Re your cannon carriages, I take it that it is PVA glue you are using ??.
 
I think you will be better of using 2 part epoxy glue.
Don't forget to scratch some of the varnish off on the deck where the wheels touch the deck then put the epoxy glue on.
Or you can put a pin in that block, drill a hole in the deck, then put the epoxy on the pin and place it in the hole.
 
 
Denis.

Hi John
 
Nice to see you back on your build again.
 
Re your cannon carriages, I take it that it is PVA glue you are using ??.
 
I think you will be better of using 2 part epoxy glue.
Don't forget to scratch some of the varnish off on the deck where the wheels touch the deck then put the epoxy glue on.
Or you can put a pin in that block, drill a hole in the deck, then put the epoxy on the pin and place it in the hole.
 
 
Denis.

Thanks very much for all of your great comments,i can just sit here and look at it now.If anyone else does this kit follow the measurements on the plan not the ones in the colour instruction book.Now for a rest and follow all of your builds.Thanks for looking in and for your help.Ron.

Hi Ron
 
Lovely work Ron it is a credit to your skills as a model builder, well done.
 
 
Denis.

Hi Ron
 
Lovely work Ron it is a credit to your skills as a model builder, well done.
 
 
Denis.

Some more.

More or less finished the Endeavour now,just need to attach a sail above the ships launch if Occre send me one or I find it again.Two and a half years as time permitted pretty good kit overall but who knows what the Endeavour really looked like,there's so many variations around with great details.Now to organise a case for it.Thanks to all of the guys who have built or are building Endeavours for the photos and advice and also for everyone else's help,it would have been nearly impossible without your help.For micklen32 and Augie r.i.p thanks men,see you later on.

Hi Ron
I agree with you re freight
Ie I wanted to get a Proxxon miller, asked for a price from Proxxon New Zealand they wanted $2,500nz.
Had a look at the Tool shed in Australia, I think it was just under or just over $700au + P&P and import duty it came to about just over $1,200nz.
A bit different to $2,500nz that Proxxon New Zealand wanted.
Sorry it is not Tool Shed    it is MY TOOL STORE, sorry Dave for putting you wrong.
Denis.