JerseyCity Frankie

I think the lines you mention DO go to the bullwark pinrails, and they do lead through the top. Often bullseye fairleads are lashed on the inner faces of the shrouds to lead the lines to the pins. Also the buntlines are always cast off or belayed all at the same time and thus they can live on the same pin, so that eliminates the need for one of the bullwark pins.

Hi,
Short Guide to period ship model rigging.
After hull finishing and mast installation is time for „spider works” it is rigging.
All belaying racks , cleats must be already installed also is recommended to install eye bolts on ship decks or drill holes for it .
My sequence is:
1.Standing rigging – stays , shrouds, backstays, bowsprit standing rigging. I start with this works from foremast down shrouds and proceed going up and next to stern.
With proper tension of shrouds, stays and backstays position of mast is adjusted.
This is very important to control position of masts using plumb-line.
2.Yards furnishing. I install blocks and standing rigging on yards as also yard’s truss or parral. After fully furnishing of yards is time for attaching sails and running rigging: lifts, clew lines, leech and bunt lines, reef tackles
Next is time for attach sails to the yards.
3. Yards with sails are installed on masts and required running rigging  is made -  from topmast sails going down.
4. Remaining running rigging is installed: sheets and tacks, braces.
With proper tensions of sheets, tacks and braces the yards are shifted into
required position.
Tension of bowlines can help form bunt of sails.
 
Foto 1-9 Rigging workshop and jigs
Foto 10-12 Deadeyes tyig and jig
Foto 13 Ratlines tying with use of upholstery needle and stencil.
Foto 14-16 Yards and sails ready for "weddin"
Foto 16-18 Jigs for blocks tying and tackle made
 
Recommended books:
Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson
Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft  by Lennarth Petersson
Historic Ship  Models b y Wolfram zu Mondfeld
 
Tadeusz

No, I finally decided not to rig the model exactly because of its size. The hull itself is 56in long. For now I have no idea where will I put her when is done but at the speed I am advancing this will not be an issue fore several more years at least.
 
SawdustDave, Bob, and everybody who liked my pictures, thank you for appreciation.
 
Regards,
Alexandru

I have this one but not sure where it came from:
 

 
Does it help?

Washed the pencil marks out of the sails. Hung them on the front door on a sunny day. The sun coming through the glass storm door heats the space between the doors & dried them very quickly. The stitched lines turned out looking fine to me.
 
I am now working on the reef bands & other cloths sewed on the corners for extra strength in the high stress areas where the sail was pulled on by ropes/rigging. Pics coming soon......... 

Hand stitching the lines for the sail cloths will not be easy. How in the world will I get all those line straight? I pined the sails to the sail plan sheet. Used a ruler to mark the lines in pencil. Used the penciled lines as my guide & very slowly over many days I stitched the line in keeping the stitching as close as I could, keeping the line as straight as I could.
 

Starting bolt ropes. Had an old spool of rope left over from a build a long time ago. Sewed bolt rope on first sail. Still nine more to go.
 
 

Forgot to post the pics.....
 

Thanks Grant & John. And thanks CaptainSteve for the tip on the reef points. I modified it a little. I'll try to show the steps I'm taking to tie the reef points. My camera doesn't get as close in as I would like I hope it show it ok.
 
First I pre-tie a knot in a line of sewing thread. I pull this through the reef band with the sewing needle - pulling the knot up to the sail. I cut it off on the un-knotted side with enough extra length to do some tying. Then I do the same thing all over again from the opposite way (through the same hole) each thread knotted on one side passing by each other through the sail with a knot on each side. Now each side has 2 threads hanging out - one knotted & one not knotted. 
 
 

Sewed the reef bands & extra cloths. Next time I do sails I will not use anything thicker than thin handkerchief material. The sails look real good with these details but ended up a little too thick where extra cloth was sewed on. Next will be the reef points & boltrope.
 
 

Got the ratlines done. This ship was a smaller vessel so there were fewer ratlines.
 
Found I had a broken yard truss so I glued another piece of wood on & reshaped it. A little paint touch up & it's good as new.
 
 

FINALLY got all the sail stitching, reef bands & points & bolt ropes done. Now I can start putting them on the yards & get to the next step that will take me forever- the ratlines.
 
 

Worked on the gaff halyards & the yard braces. I usually like to tie onto the pin & form the rope coil with the same line like is in reality but I'm having a very hard time reaching it- too much stuff in the way. So I'm tying off & forming rope coils separately & laying the coil over the pin.
 
 

More pics as I bring the build log up to date. As you will note, as I got further into the build I flattened out the shine look and painted Corel's gold pieces to flat black. Unfortunately, the bulwarks and deck gratings were not to scale. Pulling it apart would have made matters worse. This is when I decided to either throw the thing in the trash or continue building and use the ship build as something to practice on. 
 
This is what I have done and will finish it up. I am currently working on the upper rat lines and from this point will post pics as I go. There are not very many builds of the Greyhound out there so this is one of the reasons I'll swallow my pride and keep posting!
 
Again, while it is a poorly designed kit with inadequate and sub par build docs and wood, The full blame rests with me. I could have and should have researched the build further, bashed the kit, ordered better wood and replaced Corel's poor quality castings with my own builds. While this kit isn't Corel's best work, they do have some excellent kits and I have some waiting on the shelf to be built. What I don't understand is why Corel doesn't temporarily pull this product and make the appropriate adjustments. None the less, if you buy the kit from a good vendor such as ModelExpo they will stand behind the product and replace parts. Course, they will replace the parts with the same poor quality parts from Corel. 
 
I shouldn't be so hard on Corel. I am interested in what other members think about their products. 

1/48 scale! Many modelers have built (and are building) HMS Victories, but how many chose 1/48 scale? I remember the Longridge model is none feet long! Or maybe the case it resides in was nine feet? I wonder if you plan to rig the model? where this huge model go when it is completed?

I think the lines you mention DO go to the bullwark pinrails, and they do lead through the top. Often bullseye fairleads are lashed on the inner faces of the shrouds to lead the lines to the pins. Also the buntlines are always cast off or belayed all at the same time and thus they can live on the same pin, so that eliminates the need for one of the bullwark pins.

I can never resist putting in my two cents on the issue of weather or not to include sails on a sailing ship model. I always try to advocate for including the sails since I view them as a defining aspect of a sailing vessel. The argument against sails is most often framed from the perspective that "they block the view of details on the model" and that they "are difficult". I will certainly agree that they are difficult! But I don't think that is an excuse to leave them off the model. The idea that they block the view of other aspects of the ship is true only in the sense that actual sails block the view of actual aspects of an actual ship. Thats how actual ships appear. Incidentally there are other things that are difficult to manage on ship models which ALSO block the view of deck details and are time consuming and difficult to make and install: Cannons! But you NEVER see people omit the cannons.

Many thanks for the picture harlequin, i am going to approach this section sometime latter,   for now i have been continuing with the hull planking down to and including the whale, i have also cut out the oar slots and the lower deck acsess port, i have set up the whale planking by using two sections - one 2mm by 2mm  and the other 4mm by 2mm i think 6mm is quite a good width for the whale.
 
Here's the latest pics..
 
 
C.

I have no experience with table  top hobby saws, but on a full size table saw I would say you need featherboards, which are easy enough to make from scrap: http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=featherboard&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=yXvBVKqcMau1sQSr_IKYAQ&ved=0CCkQsAQ

Hello friends.
Manufacture of ropes for the shrouds of the main mast.
Regards Karl
 
 
 
 
T e i l  5 7

After processing the block exterior , I simply detached pieces, one by one, carefully numbered,worked inside and thickness, and relocated using keel.

 

Excuse me, I was rude. my name is gabriel. vasile gabriel , and i am from romania. I use methods that do not differ greatly from what you know.I draw inspiration from the work of Narin majgeldinov, aka woodeater.(whom I thank).I just have a good view.do not use a magnifying glass or glasses, but a head lamp, very strong. for the hull i worked a block of pear wood , composed of slices of 1 mm thickness, and glued together with newsprint.

Thank you for your attention.

this is the model today.

 

I first made of copper wire rings 0.1 thickness 2 mm in diameter.then with a pair of pliers I gave form directly on the piece.

I use camera on my cellphone. 5MP is enough - not to oversize MSW limits - but to get clear pictures.
 
For macro shots I add little cheep Chinese optical lenses in front of cell camera
 

 
Here are results I get with this technique
 
Wider look to rudder
 

Detail 
 

 
Don`t forget - macro shots are our enemy !!!! Mistakes you can not see by your own eyes, are very very visible on macro shots !!!!