JerseyCity Frankie

These are just general photos of the build at an early stage, along with my work area. Not so much the green baize card table used by
Underhill as a green cutting board.


 

Almost all cutters of the period I have seen or even the the primary source documentation have two pair of braces.   They use  forward and aft braces as can be clearly seen on this model.
 

wonderful stuff. can you add these to our gallery of contemporary models please? each model should have its own album. thank you for sharing them

Beautiful.  Thank you for sharing.  I had a less intense but equally positive experience with the NMM folks a few years ago, refuting the horror stories I had heard.
I seem to see a few yards set on horses, but some not.  Are any of these vessels set up with sliding bowsprits?
I take particular note of the stay coming down to a deadeye in a loop, with the lower 'dead' sheaves drilled through the stem head.  I've never seen that, but it might come in handy.

Yes, indeed, Druxey. The feeling was mutual. I really admired their enthusiasm and knowledge, as well as their friendliness. Nick already sent me a reply correcting a previous version of my post about Smokey Joe. I had thought the museum named it, but he told me that it came to them with that name.
 
Further, as they were accompanying me from the museum, they took me round their store to see some of the enormous contemporary models (not of cutters) that they have in storage and then led me to some models they thought highly of in the museum proper -- including two very fine ships made from bone.
 
Tony

Cutter; 12 Guns. Object ID SLR0704. 
The description provided on the NMM web site is: "Scale: probably 1:72. A contemporary (?) plank on frame full hull model of a 12-gun cutter. The fact that the hull is planked in carvel fashion, (edge to edge planking), and that a square topsail is rigged would suggest a date of about 1820. Also the decoration on the stern indicates the name ‘Pelican’ although a cutter of this name cannot be traced either as a man-of-war or a revenue cruiser".
 
The interesting thing here (for me, at least!) is that again the belaying rack at the bow is running fore-aft by the bowsprit.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Tony

In order for me to understand better the rigging practices for cutters of the 18th Century, I wrote to the National Maritime Museum asking if I could see some of the cutter models they have in storage, now that they no longer have a model display at the Museum in Greenwich.
 
Nick Ball, the Assistant Curator of Ship Models, wrote back very quickly saying that I would be welcome to visit and could see all of the models I had requested which are now stored at the Royal Historic Dockyard in Chatham -- except for one which was stored in another location less accessible to the occasional visitor.
 
He, together with Dave Lindridge the Store Manager, gave me a very generous amount of time to look at and photograph the models that they had taken out for inspection – during which they provided a lively discussion about their jobs and the models they were showing. In fact Nick said he was pleased to show visitors the models because it gave him more of an opportunity to review models in their vast collection.
 
I asked Nick about permission to post my pictures and he told me it was fine as long as I made it clear the pictures were from the NMM collection. He also asked to be provided to the links of the photos as he himself (as a trained naval archaeologist) was very keen on the details and would enjoy any discussion that ensued.
 
I will post the photos of the individual models under different messages, this post deals only with the first of the models.
 
I just need to add that I am enormously grateful to Nick and Dave for their patience and generosity with their time for this visit, which for me was invaluable.
 
1763 cutter NMM ID SLR0510
 
First off is their cutter referenced in the NMM as Object ID SLR0510. It is described there as “a full hull model of a cutter (circa 1763) Scale: 1:48. The vessel measures 53 feet on the main deck by 20 feet in the beam and is armed with twelve 3-pounders. The model was donated unfinished and was completed in the Museum in 1960”.
 

 
For me there were four main points of interest, apart from the fact that it is dated the same year as my Sherbourne.
 
The first is that the fore belaying pins are arranged fore-aft beside the bowsprit. Gregor, Dirk, Kester and I have been trying to figure out how the belaying pins would be set given that the kit of the Sherbourne provides no plans for such a belaying rack. Each of us have provided our own particular possibility – with Dirk going for an arrangement such as that on the AOTS book of the Alert, and Gregor going for a rack right on the stem. I had made a rack that was parallel to the windlass.
 
However, now I have seen the arrangement on the NMM cutter SLR0510, and, as you will see, the 12-gun cutter I saw had the same arrangement, I have changed my own rack accordingly.
 

 

 
The second is that the topmast is fore of the main mast. I had understood that earlier in the century the practice was to place the topmast aft of the main mast. In fact the cutter Hawke (which I also saw at Chatham and whose pictures follow in a subsequent post) was the only one of these models to place the topmast aft of the main mast.
 

 

 
The third point of interest was the windlass. The original NMM plans for the Sherbourne showed this type of windlass, and Gregor has already made one in the same style, and I followed his example – rather than following the type of windlass provided for in the Sherbourne kit.
 

 

 
The fourth point of interest is that, like the Trial that you'll see in a subsequent post, the lower hull is painted up to the wales, and not to a waterline.
 

 
The following were the other pictures I took of the1763 cutter, all of which will have details which will be picked up by those more knowledgeable than I am!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Tony

Sophie deck. My favorite ship model photo. You can see the scribed deck in this shot. The black football shaped objects are the smallest seeds I could find. I hope they never get wet and start to sprout one day since they are all over the rigs of a lot of my ship models! Donald Mcnarry describes using "Lobelia" seeds on his miniatures but I have never had any luck finding them. The cannons have a very slight blue color drybrushed onto them. I was watching a film and the cannons in the movie had a bluish cast to them so I said "why not"? It plays off the red nicely and to me it doesn't leap out at you and offend the eye but at the same time it suggests (to me anyway) the reflectivity of a glossy black surface. The coils of line are deliberately all different shades of grey and pale tan to suggest lines of various age and use.
 
 
.

I keep working

Elmers has a series of wood filler that comes in a tube.  They have a wide range of color choices and its water based.  I found that if you buy all the colors it is easy to mix them like paints and get pretty close.  In addition...if you have some weathering powders, you can add small amounts to color it further if needed.

Happy New Year!
Even during the holidays, I managed to sneak some time in the shipyard.  I laid out the stern framing using some leftover cherry and balsa filler.  I probably will need more sanding, but I’ll do that as part of the fairing of the hull.  I still have lots of sanding dust to make.
 

If they're square openings I make note of size and location, then cut to "close" by drilling out the center first.  After that, I sand using sanding sticks.  As a check piece, I make a block of wood the size for the ports that's again tapered such that one end is full size and rest isn't.  This tells me when I'm getting close.  I also put reference lines on the hull and the check piece to keep everything square.
 
Beware though.... on some ships (seems common on French frigates) the first port isn't a gun port but used for handling of the anchor.  It is often a different size then the gun ports.
 
On some ships, they aren't as the sides are vertical but the top and bottom match the run of the deck.  Same method would work, just a different "insert".
 
I'm sure others have their own way of doing this but this is what works for me.  As always, your mileage may vary.

Hi again,
 Took another photo of the violin/fiddle block arrangement that I've fitted but the technology's failed. You can see on the previous photo, port side aft, one of the double blocks made.  Comments even adverse would be welcome. A group of us meet once a month to chat about ship models. We take our stuff with us but the chat gets in the way of any progress. We are all in our 70s with the inevitable shaky hands. Good fun though!

This is the final shape of this station sandwich.  The near red ochre  of the Elm at the sides of the gunport contrasts against the Maple.  This represents the shaping of 8 frames/4 bends at one time.  Any more shaping will be to transition to the next sandwich, when they are joined on the faces. La Renommee has an elegant shape in her cross section.
    I now have to repeat this process 15 more times to produce the complete hull, less the stern framing and hawse timbers at the bow.

    Station VIII side

    Station VII side

    Station IX-VIII  has been shaped and is dry fit to Station VIII-VII


    In the process of  dry fitting and deciding how to mark the deck and wale locations once the pattern is removed ( a knife cut ),  I recognized that the keel location needed.work.   I drew the center line on the inside and placed tape to protect the keel site.  When the hull is shaped as a single unit this location is subject to erosion.

    The line on the inside will not survive any sanding.  I drilled a #70 hole in the center of every floor timber.  Although it was too late for these first two frame sandwiches,  The center line hole will be drilled in the individual floor timbers before any assembly with the rest.

    Stations IX-VIII and VIII-VII have patterns removed, faces sanded and locator holes sized to be an easy fit for the 8 dowels.

    My frame press helps get a strong bond.  Difficult experience has taught me to measure the thickness of a sandwich unit at the rail and the keel.  It has also taught me to assemble the hull from mid ship towards each end.  I do shaping at the glue joint with the addition of each new unit of frames.  With  each sandwich addition the whole becomes progressively more difficult to manipulate and the interior more restricted as the hull builds out.   I ease this task by  doing a smaller sub assembly of sandwich pairs.  I like the clamping pressure that my frame press generates.  The press will only open enough to accept pairs of sandwiches. If there is a problem with station thickness being different between the rail and keel, each sub assembly will be adjusted if the keel is not flat when the rail faces meet.  
 

Here is the template I used to laser cut the window overhang on the stern.

By using the lines on that template, I was able to create a pattern for the black trim around the windows.  The 3D form is below.  This was printed on my 3D printer.

I also created a form for the area below the windows.

I designed and printed out the lettering on photo paper.  I wasn't sure exactly how large it should be, so I created a set of images in varying sizes.  The images on the left will be used later for the nameplate on the bow.

The lettering was cut out and glued to the shape that will go below the windows.

It was necessary to trim away some of the wood below the windows so that the shape would fit properly.

And this is the result, with the pieces glued on.  Some touch-up of the paint will be needed.

And this is a reference photo from sultanaeducation.org showing the stern.  I will need to add the window covers and the lamp, but I think I will save that for later.  If I added them now, they will be in danger of breaking off while I work on other parts of the ship.

Post 48
Gun rigging (Part 2)
 
 The breeching ropes are at last attached, and scuffs on the iron work touched in.
 

4005(2)

4001(2)
It is time to fix the guns in place along the bulwarks.
A small dot of pva is applied to the trucks to fix them to the deck, and the breeching lines can then be attached to the bulwark.
 

4023
Quite fiddly getting the eyebolts into the bulwark holes without marking the paintwork or even worse the gun blackening.
 

4024
The eyebolts also have to be orientated to allow the Breeching line to hang properly.

4028

4015
The Breeching lines are not glued down and it’s quite nice not to have to fight them to get them to drape naturally.

4013

4025(2)

4026(2)

4029
 
I’m quite pleased with the look of her, but now onto those side tackles, 24 tackles to make up, - what joy. 🙄
Happy Christmas to my fellow MSW members, and thank you to those who have shown interest in my build over the past six months.
 
 
Gun Rigging (Part 3)

In this post I am making up the Side tackles, again jigs are required to ease the pain of making up these fiddly little items.

4036(2)
The Alert Book indicates 5” double* and single (hooked) block combinations for the side tackles. These equate to 2mm blocks at scale.

 
*I seem to recall that only single blocks were used on small guns such as six pounders, so that is what I will use.

 
The tackle line is given as 2” circumference with 30’ length

This scales to 0.25mm ø with a length of 143mm.



Making up the tackles

 I am using Syren Boxwood 3/32” blocks (2.38mm) to give me a little leeway over the tiny 2mm blocks given that hooks must be attached.

 

4033(2)
For the hooks I am using Syren 3mm black plastic hooks, something Chuck no longer supplies, but they are ideal for tackle rigging at small scales, much neater than the equivalent 3mm brass etched versions.

 
For the tackle lines I am using Syren 0.20mm line which will provide a visible contrast to the heavier Breeching lines.

 
The blocks are rigged using a third hand tool, and the tackles are completed on the ‘Gun’ jig.

 
 Each tackle assembly takes me around 20 minutes to complete. For the full set around eight hours of work are required, but it feels a lot longer than that.

 
Side tackles are difficult to get looking right; often on models the blocks look over-scale and with the necessary addition of hooks there is only a short space between the two blocks, which makes the tackle arrangement look unconvincing.

 
There is a particular issue with Alert where the securing eyebolts for the tackles are placed in the faces of the shot garlands, reducing the distance between the tackle blocks.

 
In practice with guns run out the tackle blocks are quite close together as apparent on this shot of a twelve pounder on the Quarterdeck of Victory.


12 Pounder gun, Victory Qtr Deck.
I much prefer this look of secured tackles rather than stylized cheeses arranged on the deck.
The Royal Yacht Squadron it ain’t.

Getting a loose frap arrangement at model scale is very tricky, so my approach is to frap the lines and arrange the line ends in a loose coil.

This too is somewhat stylized, but it is my option at this scale.

Once made it is fairly simple to attach the tackles to the guns. and making up separate coils completes the job.

 
 
B.E.
24/12/2019
 

I started this built sometime ago. Given the scope and difficulty, I decided to focus on deciphering the plans and determining a comfortable plan of attack before starting a build log. 
  I’m presently building and installing frames.  At first I didn’t trust the lines and found myself leaving things proud to give myself a little room to work with. A good idea initially, but means substantial amount of sanding later on. Patience......
Some pictures to bring things up to date. 

I've seen paintings on copper where the dark (bituminous) background and any paint that had it mixed in simply craze into flakes and fall off, gesso ground included.

Frankly I think using a Oil paint Sepia wash would probably do the same thing from my experience dabbling in Oil Painting.  

Most of the metal parts have been finalized.

Rigging 8mm Double Block

Model Expo is coming out with a series of 'real' boat kits. Each is a progressive skill-building kit. The first one is an East Coast dory.

Fitting of yards started, foreyard first then upward and towards the stern. The fore sheet, tack and cluelines will be fitted further down the track, it's hard enough getting to the rig attachment points as it is, these lines would make it much more difficult.
Cheers, David.

Another hurdle to clear before I can start the rigging.
 
The figurehead!
 
I intend to start the rig at the bow and work towards the stern so the bowsprit is the first work area. I can't start on the bowsprit rig until the figurehead is installed. I have been putting this off for too long but the time has come and I can no longer avoid this part of the build.
 
Unfortunately my 3d people shape modelling skills are zero so this is going to be a steep learning curve and I don't have great confidence in the likely result.
 
The first challenge was to work out what medium to use. Do I build up a shape using some sort of modelling medium or do I carve from a block of something? I have some timber a friend gave me that he said was good for carving so I thought I would have a go at this first.
 
The next challenge was the shape of the figurehead. The Surprise carries the goddess Athena but she has many manifestations ranging from the elaborate metal look item on the replica used in Master and Commander to much more mundane items on other models. I decided to go for the mundane. After much searching I found a model which had a fairly simple Athena and I decided this would be the example I would attempt to  build. I feel I can justify a fairly simple approach as Surprise was very much a working frigate and as the figurehead would most likely be damaged in any major sea battle fought repairs would need to be made by the ship's carpenter with timber to hand.
 
The process and result are in the pictures. I am happy with the result, my first attempt at wood carving.
 
 

Post 45
A few more bits and pieces.
 
Scuppers
These are given as four in number each side with a diameter of 2½” (0.99mm at scale)

3881(2)
They are made from thin slices of aluminium tubing flattened on the anvil.
 
Iron plates for Backstays
As with the Chainplates I fashioned these from some brass strip.
 

3904(2)
According to the Alert Book drawings these are for (from aft) the Running Backstay, Running Backstay Tackle, and Standing Backstay. (set up with deadeyes.)
The kit rigging follows the Alert book.
 
The subject of Backstays.
There is a confusion in my mind about the notation used in relation to the rigging in the Alert Book. There are several instances where the description for the same line varies across the different drawings.
For instance, drawing H22/2 shows ratlines across all five connections along the channel whereas on H4/1 they terminate at shroud four.
The book narrative notes that:- a fifth pair of deadeyes were added for the Standing Backstay, - on the channel and shown in drawing H4/1
However, drawing D1/1 annotates this as being a shroud deadeye, with the first of the iron plates aft of the channels as relating to the standing backstay. The aft two plates being for the standing end and tackle of the running backstay.
So how many standing backstays are there?
Strangely, the rigging table in the Alert Book (taken from Steel) does not list backstays for the lower masts, only the T’gallant standing Backstay is mentioned.
 

3906(3)
Backstay rigging as I recognise it.
 
The use of deadeyes on the iron plate, ostensibly the same size as for the shrouds along the channel doesn’t sit easy with my eye. Tackles are usually seen hooked into iron plates on Cutters.
The question remains, if the first iron plate is indeed for a standing backstay, what size line is it, and is the use of deadeyes a drawing error.
The kit indicates use of 0.75mm ø line which scales up to a 6” circumference line, as with the shrouds.
Steel gives the circumference of the shroud lines as 8” scaling to a 1mm ø line.
None of the cutter models I have seen have a deadeye arrangement for this standing backstay, except those based on Goodwin’s Alert book, which the kit follows.
 

3301
The Hawke model with the usual tackle secured Backstays.
 
I note that Lennarth Petersson in his book Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft shows yet another variation on backstay tackles, but tackles they are, not deadeyes.
Having looked extensively thro’ all my rigging books and at many cutter models, I have decided not to use deadeyes for the backstays and I have formed all the plates to take hooks.
How I will rig the tackles I can now safely leave until later.
 
B.E.
16/12/2019