hamilton

Hi Hamilton,
Glad to see you are back working on the Bellona. Looks good so far and you will probably catch up to me soon. LOL As far as the first planking and whether to carve the rabbet and bearding lines, that’s what I did on mine. I then had to carve them out again to accept the second layer of planks. If I can be of any assistance, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I will be watching you progress and look forward to having a partner building the same ship.
 
Cheers
Nearshore

Managed to resolve one of the issues noted above - fitting the main cabin bulkhead back under the poop deck. My results are not as clean as I'd like, but since this area will be pretty hard to see when all's said and done the clumsiness of it will likely fade a bit. 
 
There are three components to this bulkhead - a central section with the two doors, and two side panels. These are provided as photo-etched brass fittings, but as noted a couple of posts ago, the central part was too wide for the model as-built. I used the p-e parts for the side panels, and these worked fine. The pillars are also p-e brass, fitted atop .6mm x 3mm tanganyika strips so they stand a little proud of the panels. I decided to finish the pillars white to contrast with the yellow cabin bulkhead.
 
The centre part I scratch-built using 1/64 birch plywood sheeting. I traced the shape of the central p-e part on some card paper and adjusted this until it fit in the appropriate space on the model, then used this as a template to cut a backing from the birch ply. To frame out the panels and cabin doors, I used a combination of 1mm x 2mm and 1mm x 1mm strips, finished yellow. As I say the results are far from perfect, but this area of the model will be barely visible on completion, so I won't mind it too much and have learned a thing or two in the process. 
 
I test fitted these with the sub-decks for the quarterdeck in place, and I will have to make some small adjustments to those subdecks when the time comes to install them so they slot in properly - the back edge will need to be slightly thinned to fit - not a problem I don't think. 
 
Enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton
 

Given the need to consider an approach to the elements noted above, I decided to spend a bit of time today planking the f'csl. I installed two waterway planks to port and starboard these were from 1mm x 2mm strips of Tanganyika. The central king plank is .6mm x 4mm while the deck planking is .6mm x 3mm. A very straightforward process.
 
I also installed central sections of the garboard planking while considering how to proceed on the lower hull. I'll probably complete the lower hull planking forward as this is less mysterious than the planking aft, and then complete planking on the poop deck. Hopefully by that time I'll have a strategy for addressing the issues noted in my last post....until then - enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

Well - with the Bluenose being in a very nearly-completed state (and with me still fretting over how to approach the dorys...) I've decided to turn back to HMS Bellona, which has been languishing for the last year and more. 
 
Almost immediately on picking the model up again, I realised that I needed to re-acquaint myself with it - given that at the stage where I left it there were several threads I could pick up to move it forward - planking the f'csl and quarterdeck; working on the main cabin bulkhead beneath the poop deck; completing the lower hull planking....as I considered this I noticed two issues that I'm hoping I can get some advice on - I may post these as questions elsewhere, too - but if anyone's looking in and has advice on these I would appreciate it.
 
1. Lower hull planking at sternpost - I marked out the bearding and rabbet lined on the centre keel and had thought of cutting in a rabbet before installing the bulkhead frames, but the material is so soft and my hands so ungentle that I was worried about destroying this piece so I left it - now I'm face with a conundrum where I don't know how I can complete the hull planking aft while maintaining correct width of the sterpost...I could try cutting a rabbet along the aft part of the centre keel, even a shallow one, and then thinning the planks; or I could try feathering the planks along the bearding line (though this could be quite tricky especially at the transition points between the centre keel and the aft bulkhead frames.....I'll have to consider how to proceed, but any advice on these approaches would be helpful.
 
2. cabin bulkhead - these consist of 3 photo-etched brass parts, similar to the bulkhead under the f'csl that I installed earlier. The two p-e parts that fit on the port and starboard sides with nicely, though the starboard one might need to be trimmed at the bottom to allow the subdeck of the quarterdeck to slot in beneath them. The issue is the centre piece which does not fit at all - it is too wide to fit in the space on the model as-built....I followed the build order as laid out on the plans and installed the poop deck before adding these parts, which was probably dumb, as the space where they need to go, while not totally inaccessible, is tricky to get at. I will likely have to scratch-build this central part to fit and then use the p-e parts for the port and starboard side...fortunately, this area will be minimally visible on the completed model, so it is less of a concern than the other issue above....though installing the quarterdeck is a part of the build that I am not looking forward to.....
 
Anyway, here are some photos to illustrate the issues.....any suggestions, tips or advice will be most welcome! Hopefully I've explained the issues clearly....
hamilton

Thanks Hamilton… Nope, I have never been a jeweler, LOL.  Just working on my new skill sets to keep up with all you watchmakers out there. A steady hand and a good Optomitrist, helps. Oh! And a lot of help from my friends on MSW. 👍

Wow! That is some impressive scale work! How do you do it?? Maybe I missed it but were you a jeweller or watchmaker in a former life? I cannot imagine getting those results...amazing.
hamilton

Given the need to consider an approach to the elements noted above, I decided to spend a bit of time today planking the f'csl. I installed two waterway planks to port and starboard these were from 1mm x 2mm strips of Tanganyika. The central king plank is .6mm x 4mm while the deck planking is .6mm x 3mm. A very straightforward process.
 
I also installed central sections of the garboard planking while considering how to proceed on the lower hull. I'll probably complete the lower hull planking forward as this is less mysterious than the planking aft, and then complete planking on the poop deck. Hopefully by that time I'll have a strategy for addressing the issues noted in my last post....until then - enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

Wow! That is some impressive scale work! How do you do it?? Maybe I missed it but were you a jeweller or watchmaker in a former life? I cannot imagine getting those results...amazing.
hamilton

Given the need to consider an approach to the elements noted above, I decided to spend a bit of time today planking the f'csl. I installed two waterway planks to port and starboard these were from 1mm x 2mm strips of Tanganyika. The central king plank is .6mm x 4mm while the deck planking is .6mm x 3mm. A very straightforward process.
 
I also installed central sections of the garboard planking while considering how to proceed on the lower hull. I'll probably complete the lower hull planking forward as this is less mysterious than the planking aft, and then complete planking on the poop deck. Hopefully by that time I'll have a strategy for addressing the issues noted in my last post....until then - enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

Given the need to consider an approach to the elements noted above, I decided to spend a bit of time today planking the f'csl. I installed two waterway planks to port and starboard these were from 1mm x 2mm strips of Tanganyika. The central king plank is .6mm x 4mm while the deck planking is .6mm x 3mm. A very straightforward process.
 
I also installed central sections of the garboard planking while considering how to proceed on the lower hull. I'll probably complete the lower hull planking forward as this is less mysterious than the planking aft, and then complete planking on the poop deck. Hopefully by that time I'll have a strategy for addressing the issues noted in my last post....until then - enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

Excellent work on the masts John - there's a lot to keep in your head with this part of the build in preparation for rigging - but it's nice to start building vertically! Really starts to come to life at this stage! 
hamilton

Excellent work on the masts John - there's a lot to keep in your head with this part of the build in preparation for rigging - but it's nice to start building vertically! Really starts to come to life at this stage! 
hamilton

Well - now I feel like I've already presented the big reveal even before the model is actually done....but as noted before, I still have a few little things. This week I installed the fore boom crutch, the sheer poles on the lower shrouds (photo below shows sheer pole clamped to the fore & aft-most shrouds to facilitate lashing them to the central two - clips are then removed and other lashings added) and tonight I took an hour after dinner and completed the running lights, which I knocked together from some 1/8" dowel and 3/64" x 3/16" lime. I could not figure out how these would have been actually installed on the shrouds, so I ended up drilling a couple of holes in the back face of the lights and lashing them onto the shrouds. Pictures follow
hamilton
 

Chief!! It's been over a year since you left this message, but I've not been working on Bellona so I haven't seen it until this minute! I'm sorry not have responded earlier - I hope you're in good health and doing well down there! All the best to you
 
I'll be picking up Bellona again soon, since I'm very near completion on Bluenose, which took priority for a while since it will be a gift for a colleague who is retiring in the Spring. 
hamilton

Well - now I feel like I've already presented the big reveal even before the model is actually done....but as noted before, I still have a few little things. This week I installed the fore boom crutch, the sheer poles on the lower shrouds (photo below shows sheer pole clamped to the fore & aft-most shrouds to facilitate lashing them to the central two - clips are then removed and other lashings added) and tonight I took an hour after dinner and completed the running lights, which I knocked together from some 1/8" dowel and 3/64" x 3/16" lime. I could not figure out how these would have been actually installed on the shrouds, so I ended up drilling a couple of holes in the back face of the lights and lashing them onto the shrouds. Pictures follow
hamilton
 

Well - now I feel like I've already presented the big reveal even before the model is actually done....but as noted before, I still have a few little things. This week I installed the fore boom crutch, the sheer poles on the lower shrouds (photo below shows sheer pole clamped to the fore & aft-most shrouds to facilitate lashing them to the central two - clips are then removed and other lashings added) and tonight I took an hour after dinner and completed the running lights, which I knocked together from some 1/8" dowel and 3/64" x 3/16" lime. I could not figure out how these would have been actually installed on the shrouds, so I ended up drilling a couple of holes in the back face of the lights and lashing them onto the shrouds. Pictures follow
hamilton
 

I use artist acrylics on my models - there are many brands but I go with Golden. This brand is truly astonishing in terms of how long the pigment holds over time - I have bottles of this stuff that I use maybe once every two years and there is literally zero separation of the pigment, which is what you will normally find both with oils, as well as with cheaper acrylics. They're a bit more expensive, but if you want long-lasting paints and long-lasting results, a decent artist acrylic will be best.
hamilton
 
quick edit - the downside is that there tend to be less variety in tones and shades in artist acrylics as with modelling acrylics, since it's assumed that many artists will want to mix their own tones from base pigments. I have yet, for example, to find a good off the shelf yellow ochre or gun carriage red in the artist acrylic brand I use - obviously for many period ship modellers, these tones are not a matter of compromise....
h.

I use artist acrylics on my models - there are many brands but I go with Golden. This brand is truly astonishing in terms of how long the pigment holds over time - I have bottles of this stuff that I use maybe once every two years and there is literally zero separation of the pigment, which is what you will normally find both with oils, as well as with cheaper acrylics. They're a bit more expensive, but if you want long-lasting paints and long-lasting results, a decent artist acrylic will be best.
hamilton
 
quick edit - the downside is that there tend to be less variety in tones and shades in artist acrylics as with modelling acrylics, since it's assumed that many artists will want to mix their own tones from base pigments. I have yet, for example, to find a good off the shelf yellow ochre or gun carriage red in the artist acrylic brand I use - obviously for many period ship modellers, these tones are not a matter of compromise....
h.

Hello there:
 
So the sails and running rigging on the Bluenose are now complete, though the model itself needs a number of finishing touches, namely:
 
1. The fore boom crutch - some quirks of the model as built will require me to position this differently than the plans, which presumably means it will differ from things on the actual vessel....oh well!
 
2. Barrels - there is room on the rack I made forward of the cabin for 2 more and I think this will look better than the 4 I currently have....
 
3. Sheer poles - on the lower shrouds - a pretty straightforward element
 
4. Running lights - I have to consider how to approach these - I had thought of doing what I did with the MS Phantom (my very first model) and banging something up that more or less suits the purpose, but after all the effort on Bluenose I feel like I need to try something more authentic....
 
5. Dorys - I had a go at these this past Spring, but I found it very difficult to get the basic parts of these together using the jig design included on the plans - I've seen other Bluenose builds using these to good effect, so I do plan on having another concerted go, but I feel like I need enough time and leisure to really focus on it - this is not the kind of thing (for me anyway) that I can just nibble at with 30 mins here or 1 hour there....
 
6. rope coils - I've never been to concerned with these in previous builds - though I did make an effort to add them to the Armed Virginia Sloop that I built was back in 2010 or something - one of the models of which I'm the proudest - and considering (once again) the effort put into Bluenose it seems appropriate to me to go a bit of extra distance with these details.
 
Here are a few photos of the model as it stands. The first one shows the 1:64 Bluenose next to the (now pretty ratty) 1:100 scale Amati version I built back in 2012. Enjoy and happy modelling
hamilton
 
 

Very nice clean results!

Very neat and tidy work - with great results! At this point, I think you could fit the rail - I can't imagine that deck planking would cause any issues with the rail installed. You did a great job with the chainplate slots in the rails....I fudged this by filing out sections after the rails were installed and then covering them over with very thin stripwood that was then sanded to blend them in...yours will produce a much nicer and cleaner look
hamilton

Very neat and tidy work - with great results! At this point, I think you could fit the rail - I can't imagine that deck planking would cause any issues with the rail installed. You did a great job with the chainplate slots in the rails....I fudged this by filing out sections after the rails were installed and then covering them over with very thin stripwood that was then sanded to blend them in...yours will produce a much nicer and cleaner look
hamilton

Thanks Gregg - that means I've been successful at hiding my mistakes! I've had that kit for a while but have been a bit too intimidated to build it. I haven't done anything with it since I picked Bluenose back up i think back in January, but now I'll return to it with some gusto!
hamilton

Hello there:
 
So the sails and running rigging on the Bluenose are now complete, though the model itself needs a number of finishing touches, namely:
 
1. The fore boom crutch - some quirks of the model as built will require me to position this differently than the plans, which presumably means it will differ from things on the actual vessel....oh well!
 
2. Barrels - there is room on the rack I made forward of the cabin for 2 more and I think this will look better than the 4 I currently have....
 
3. Sheer poles - on the lower shrouds - a pretty straightforward element
 
4. Running lights - I have to consider how to approach these - I had thought of doing what I did with the MS Phantom (my very first model) and banging something up that more or less suits the purpose, but after all the effort on Bluenose I feel like I need to try something more authentic....
 
5. Dorys - I had a go at these this past Spring, but I found it very difficult to get the basic parts of these together using the jig design included on the plans - I've seen other Bluenose builds using these to good effect, so I do plan on having another concerted go, but I feel like I need enough time and leisure to really focus on it - this is not the kind of thing (for me anyway) that I can just nibble at with 30 mins here or 1 hour there....
 
6. rope coils - I've never been to concerned with these in previous builds - though I did make an effort to add them to the Armed Virginia Sloop that I built was back in 2010 or something - one of the models of which I'm the proudest - and considering (once again) the effort put into Bluenose it seems appropriate to me to go a bit of extra distance with these details.
 
Here are a few photos of the model as it stands. The first one shows the 1:64 Bluenose next to the (now pretty ratty) 1:100 scale Amati version I built back in 2012. Enjoy and happy modelling
hamilton
 
 

Hello there:
 
So the sails and running rigging on the Bluenose are now complete, though the model itself needs a number of finishing touches, namely:
 
1. The fore boom crutch - some quirks of the model as built will require me to position this differently than the plans, which presumably means it will differ from things on the actual vessel....oh well!
 
2. Barrels - there is room on the rack I made forward of the cabin for 2 more and I think this will look better than the 4 I currently have....
 
3. Sheer poles - on the lower shrouds - a pretty straightforward element
 
4. Running lights - I have to consider how to approach these - I had thought of doing what I did with the MS Phantom (my very first model) and banging something up that more or less suits the purpose, but after all the effort on Bluenose I feel like I need to try something more authentic....
 
5. Dorys - I had a go at these this past Spring, but I found it very difficult to get the basic parts of these together using the jig design included on the plans - I've seen other Bluenose builds using these to good effect, so I do plan on having another concerted go, but I feel like I need enough time and leisure to really focus on it - this is not the kind of thing (for me anyway) that I can just nibble at with 30 mins here or 1 hour there....
 
6. rope coils - I've never been to concerned with these in previous builds - though I did make an effort to add them to the Armed Virginia Sloop that I built was back in 2010 or something - one of the models of which I'm the proudest - and considering (once again) the effort put into Bluenose it seems appropriate to me to go a bit of extra distance with these details.
 
Here are a few photos of the model as it stands. The first one shows the 1:64 Bluenose next to the (now pretty ratty) 1:100 scale Amati version I built back in 2012. Enjoy and happy modelling
hamilton