hamilton

Hamilton, thank you for the compliment!

I think the most important thing you can do in order to build a clean ship is to work slowly and methodically. Use the right tools and treat each part as a project in itself. Do-overs are part of the hobby and there is so much to learn when doing them. So, don't settle for mediocrity. Try to get neat and tight fits when adding parts to the ship. Keep the work surface and hands clean.
 
Think about how you want to approach each project before you start and you will get a much better result.

Mike

A beautiful rendition, John! Your display room is quite a treat to look at, too! 
hamilton

Loving your work on this Mike! How do you keep your model so clean?
hamilton

The well/shot locker is now done apart from the hardware for the shot locker lids, which will be a challenge for me given my lack of experience with metal work....in any case the work is not perfect, but that's ok with me - learning as I go and hopefully the results will be better next time...in any case I'm happy with the results, such as they are. Everything is still dry fit, so it's tricky to get things absolutely lined up, but you get the idea.
 
After the hardware for the shot locker lids (or before depending on how well my experiments go), I'll move on to the pillar in the hold and will then install all these elements permanently. Before installing the lower deck beams, I'll have to mark them and notch them out for the carlings - for this a framing template needs to be made from the deck plan included in the practicum, adjusted for the model as built, and a centreline marked on the deck beams. And on, and on....
hamilton

The well/shot locker is now done apart from the hardware for the shot locker lids, which will be a challenge for me given my lack of experience with metal work....in any case the work is not perfect, but that's ok with me - learning as I go and hopefully the results will be better next time...in any case I'm happy with the results, such as they are. Everything is still dry fit, so it's tricky to get things absolutely lined up, but you get the idea.
 
After the hardware for the shot locker lids (or before depending on how well my experiments go), I'll move on to the pillar in the hold and will then install all these elements permanently. Before installing the lower deck beams, I'll have to mark them and notch them out for the carlings - for this a framing template needs to be made from the deck plan included in the practicum, adjusted for the model as built, and a centreline marked on the deck beams. And on, and on....
hamilton

The well/shot locker is now done apart from the hardware for the shot locker lids, which will be a challenge for me given my lack of experience with metal work....in any case the work is not perfect, but that's ok with me - learning as I go and hopefully the results will be better next time...in any case I'm happy with the results, such as they are. Everything is still dry fit, so it's tricky to get things absolutely lined up, but you get the idea.
 
After the hardware for the shot locker lids (or before depending on how well my experiments go), I'll move on to the pillar in the hold and will then install all these elements permanently. Before installing the lower deck beams, I'll have to mark them and notch them out for the carlings - for this a framing template needs to be made from the deck plan included in the practicum, adjusted for the model as built, and a centreline marked on the deck beams. And on, and on....
hamilton

The well/shot locker is now done apart from the hardware for the shot locker lids, which will be a challenge for me given my lack of experience with metal work....in any case the work is not perfect, but that's ok with me - learning as I go and hopefully the results will be better next time...in any case I'm happy with the results, such as they are. Everything is still dry fit, so it's tricky to get things absolutely lined up, but you get the idea.
 
After the hardware for the shot locker lids (or before depending on how well my experiments go), I'll move on to the pillar in the hold and will then install all these elements permanently. Before installing the lower deck beams, I'll have to mark them and notch them out for the carlings - for this a framing template needs to be made from the deck plan included in the practicum, adjusted for the model as built, and a centreline marked on the deck beams. And on, and on....
hamilton

The well/shot locker is now done apart from the hardware for the shot locker lids, which will be a challenge for me given my lack of experience with metal work....in any case the work is not perfect, but that's ok with me - learning as I go and hopefully the results will be better next time...in any case I'm happy with the results, such as they are. Everything is still dry fit, so it's tricky to get things absolutely lined up, but you get the idea.
 
After the hardware for the shot locker lids (or before depending on how well my experiments go), I'll move on to the pillar in the hold and will then install all these elements permanently. Before installing the lower deck beams, I'll have to mark them and notch them out for the carlings - for this a framing template needs to be made from the deck plan included in the practicum, adjusted for the model as built, and a centreline marked on the deck beams. And on, and on....
hamilton

The well/shot locker is now done apart from the hardware for the shot locker lids, which will be a challenge for me given my lack of experience with metal work....in any case the work is not perfect, but that's ok with me - learning as I go and hopefully the results will be better next time...in any case I'm happy with the results, such as they are. Everything is still dry fit, so it's tricky to get things absolutely lined up, but you get the idea.
 
After the hardware for the shot locker lids (or before depending on how well my experiments go), I'll move on to the pillar in the hold and will then install all these elements permanently. Before installing the lower deck beams, I'll have to mark them and notch them out for the carlings - for this a framing template needs to be made from the deck plan included in the practicum, adjusted for the model as built, and a centreline marked on the deck beams. And on, and on....
hamilton

Thanks Druxey! Means a lot coming from you!
 
Work continues on the well. Today I managed to make the forward panel of the well, which is actually the forward panel of the shot locker. I also made a small interior panel that separates the port and starboard sections of the shot locker. To do this, I made a small right angle jig and edge glued the pieces together before attaching a 4" x 4" stanchion to one edge - the other is fixed to the corresponding centre stanchion on the middle panel. Photos below.
 
Once the three panels were complete and the middle one attached to the forward one, I dry fit the panels onto the model in its proper position - this allowed me to run a tick strip alongside the panels and take a measure of its overall length. I then made a small "cradle" - really just some 1/16" basswood strips clamped onto a piece of plywood - to the well's length measure. The fore and mid panel stand on their own, while I used a couple of clamps to keep the aft panel upright while the first planks were installed. Photos also below.
 
I only planked as far as where the planks start to angle back to accommodate the shot locker lids. I then made the shot locker lids using 14" boxwood milled to 2". Two stripe were used for each of the lids, edge glued together. The top and bottom ends were chamfered off to fit snugly in place - they are not yet attached to the model but I am using them to cut the planking strips of the well that angle back in line with them....the work week starts again, but I may be able to carve out time evenings this week, so hopefully a bit more progress - hard to believe that another school year is about to start - they are going by faster every time - I might have liked that a decade ago, now, I'm not so sure....
hamilton
 
 

Thanks Druxey! Means a lot coming from you!
 
Work continues on the well. Today I managed to make the forward panel of the well, which is actually the forward panel of the shot locker. I also made a small interior panel that separates the port and starboard sections of the shot locker. To do this, I made a small right angle jig and edge glued the pieces together before attaching a 4" x 4" stanchion to one edge - the other is fixed to the corresponding centre stanchion on the middle panel. Photos below.
 
Once the three panels were complete and the middle one attached to the forward one, I dry fit the panels onto the model in its proper position - this allowed me to run a tick strip alongside the panels and take a measure of its overall length. I then made a small "cradle" - really just some 1/16" basswood strips clamped onto a piece of plywood - to the well's length measure. The fore and mid panel stand on their own, while I used a couple of clamps to keep the aft panel upright while the first planks were installed. Photos also below.
 
I only planked as far as where the planks start to angle back to accommodate the shot locker lids. I then made the shot locker lids using 14" boxwood milled to 2". Two stripe were used for each of the lids, edge glued together. The top and bottom ends were chamfered off to fit snugly in place - they are not yet attached to the model but I am using them to cut the planking strips of the well that angle back in line with them....the work week starts again, but I may be able to carve out time evenings this week, so hopefully a bit more progress - hard to believe that another school year is about to start - they are going by faster every time - I might have liked that a decade ago, now, I'm not so sure....
hamilton
 
 

Made the middle panel of the well today - same procedure as the aft panel with one added element - a 4" x 4" cross piece that defines the top of the shot locker and on which the hinges for the shot locker lids sit. This middle panel tenons into the central lower deck beam. The photos below show the parts dry fit on the cross-section.
 
Next up is the front panel of the shot locker, after which the port and starboard side cladding can be put on to complete the basic form of the well. The shot locker lids and hardware will finish this off - I will try to make the hinges, etc, from brass, but my metal working skills are pretty much non-existent....a real impediment for scratch building....we'll see how it goes....
 
In the meantime enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

Thanks Druxey! Means a lot coming from you!
 
Work continues on the well. Today I managed to make the forward panel of the well, which is actually the forward panel of the shot locker. I also made a small interior panel that separates the port and starboard sections of the shot locker. To do this, I made a small right angle jig and edge glued the pieces together before attaching a 4" x 4" stanchion to one edge - the other is fixed to the corresponding centre stanchion on the middle panel. Photos below.
 
Once the three panels were complete and the middle one attached to the forward one, I dry fit the panels onto the model in its proper position - this allowed me to run a tick strip alongside the panels and take a measure of its overall length. I then made a small "cradle" - really just some 1/16" basswood strips clamped onto a piece of plywood - to the well's length measure. The fore and mid panel stand on their own, while I used a couple of clamps to keep the aft panel upright while the first planks were installed. Photos also below.
 
I only planked as far as where the planks start to angle back to accommodate the shot locker lids. I then made the shot locker lids using 14" boxwood milled to 2". Two stripe were used for each of the lids, edge glued together. The top and bottom ends were chamfered off to fit snugly in place - they are not yet attached to the model but I am using them to cut the planking strips of the well that angle back in line with them....the work week starts again, but I may be able to carve out time evenings this week, so hopefully a bit more progress - hard to believe that another school year is about to start - they are going by faster every time - I might have liked that a decade ago, now, I'm not so sure....
hamilton
 
 

Thanks Druxey! Means a lot coming from you!
 
Work continues on the well. Today I managed to make the forward panel of the well, which is actually the forward panel of the shot locker. I also made a small interior panel that separates the port and starboard sections of the shot locker. To do this, I made a small right angle jig and edge glued the pieces together before attaching a 4" x 4" stanchion to one edge - the other is fixed to the corresponding centre stanchion on the middle panel. Photos below.
 
Once the three panels were complete and the middle one attached to the forward one, I dry fit the panels onto the model in its proper position - this allowed me to run a tick strip alongside the panels and take a measure of its overall length. I then made a small "cradle" - really just some 1/16" basswood strips clamped onto a piece of plywood - to the well's length measure. The fore and mid panel stand on their own, while I used a couple of clamps to keep the aft panel upright while the first planks were installed. Photos also below.
 
I only planked as far as where the planks start to angle back to accommodate the shot locker lids. I then made the shot locker lids using 14" boxwood milled to 2". Two stripe were used for each of the lids, edge glued together. The top and bottom ends were chamfered off to fit snugly in place - they are not yet attached to the model but I am using them to cut the planking strips of the well that angle back in line with them....the work week starts again, but I may be able to carve out time evenings this week, so hopefully a bit more progress - hard to believe that another school year is about to start - they are going by faster every time - I might have liked that a decade ago, now, I'm not so sure....
hamilton
 
 

Thanks Druxey! Means a lot coming from you!
 
Work continues on the well. Today I managed to make the forward panel of the well, which is actually the forward panel of the shot locker. I also made a small interior panel that separates the port and starboard sections of the shot locker. To do this, I made a small right angle jig and edge glued the pieces together before attaching a 4" x 4" stanchion to one edge - the other is fixed to the corresponding centre stanchion on the middle panel. Photos below.
 
Once the three panels were complete and the middle one attached to the forward one, I dry fit the panels onto the model in its proper position - this allowed me to run a tick strip alongside the panels and take a measure of its overall length. I then made a small "cradle" - really just some 1/16" basswood strips clamped onto a piece of plywood - to the well's length measure. The fore and mid panel stand on their own, while I used a couple of clamps to keep the aft panel upright while the first planks were installed. Photos also below.
 
I only planked as far as where the planks start to angle back to accommodate the shot locker lids. I then made the shot locker lids using 14" boxwood milled to 2". Two stripe were used for each of the lids, edge glued together. The top and bottom ends were chamfered off to fit snugly in place - they are not yet attached to the model but I am using them to cut the planking strips of the well that angle back in line with them....the work week starts again, but I may be able to carve out time evenings this week, so hopefully a bit more progress - hard to believe that another school year is about to start - they are going by faster every time - I might have liked that a decade ago, now, I'm not so sure....
hamilton
 
 

Thanks Druxey! Means a lot coming from you!
 
Work continues on the well. Today I managed to make the forward panel of the well, which is actually the forward panel of the shot locker. I also made a small interior panel that separates the port and starboard sections of the shot locker. To do this, I made a small right angle jig and edge glued the pieces together before attaching a 4" x 4" stanchion to one edge - the other is fixed to the corresponding centre stanchion on the middle panel. Photos below.
 
Once the three panels were complete and the middle one attached to the forward one, I dry fit the panels onto the model in its proper position - this allowed me to run a tick strip alongside the panels and take a measure of its overall length. I then made a small "cradle" - really just some 1/16" basswood strips clamped onto a piece of plywood - to the well's length measure. The fore and mid panel stand on their own, while I used a couple of clamps to keep the aft panel upright while the first planks were installed. Photos also below.
 
I only planked as far as where the planks start to angle back to accommodate the shot locker lids. I then made the shot locker lids using 14" boxwood milled to 2". Two stripe were used for each of the lids, edge glued together. The top and bottom ends were chamfered off to fit snugly in place - they are not yet attached to the model but I am using them to cut the planking strips of the well that angle back in line with them....the work week starts again, but I may be able to carve out time evenings this week, so hopefully a bit more progress - hard to believe that another school year is about to start - they are going by faster every time - I might have liked that a decade ago, now, I'm not so sure....
hamilton
 
 

So, the riding bitts are on hold while I wait for the delivery of a 1/2" half round needle file. Meanwhile. .
 
Breast hooks
I decided to make each one these in one piece. Most of the work was done with the disc sander. Being able to set the angle for the outer edges of the hooks was a real time saver.
 
I always try to use whatever helping hands I can when gluing parts in place. Here I used two short 7/32" strips as spacers between the deck and lower edge of the hook.

Then I added a 5/8" balsa spacer which helped tremendously when positioning the middle hook. Some blue tape was added to show where the glue area will be.


Mike
 
 
 

So I may have been pre-emptive, but I decided to raise the deadflat frame on the keel today. Doing so took quite a bit of finessing and was definitely aided by the deadflat 1 frame when it came to final positioning.
 
The whole endeavour was slowed by the fact that I broke not one but both of the frames while adding the trunnels, and had to reset the futtocks and in one case re-make one of the chocks - which I did using the method suggested by Greg which worked way better for fit - still a bit of adjusting to do, but not as much as when I was just cutting them from the patterns on the frame drawings....
 
For mounting, the frame was merely glued to the keel assembly with PVA, which I will let cure for 24 hours before securing the seating with a length of brass rod - this will be invisible under the keelson, so I'm not going to treat it in any way, just use it for structural support.
 
I lined up the frame along the reference lines on the lateral framing squares and clamped these in place. I then clamped the forward square along the centre line (I etched a centre line on the acrylic base and vertical support for certainty)and then clamped the frame to the aft framing square.
 
Once this was done, I inserted some 2mm spacers (scrap basswood) between the two frames and used a length of 2mm basswood for a bracing piece at the top. This is only glued to the aft edge of the deadflat frame but clamped between the 2 frames to secure it. I was quite please not only with the seating of the frame, but with the alignment of the outside edges of these first two frames. I will be adding these horizontal braces to the tops of the frames as I go for structural support and to ensure symmetry and will saw the centre portions flush and sand down the remaining material flush with the frames when I fair the cross-section for planking. The bracing pieces you see further down the frame are not glued and will be removed once the glue is set and I'm ready to install deadflat 1, which I will do after completing frame 1 forward.
 
Any comments, tips or feedback on this process are always appreciated. Thanks and bye for now
hamilton 

Made the middle panel of the well today - same procedure as the aft panel with one added element - a 4" x 4" cross piece that defines the top of the shot locker and on which the hinges for the shot locker lids sit. This middle panel tenons into the central lower deck beam. The photos below show the parts dry fit on the cross-section.
 
Next up is the front panel of the shot locker, after which the port and starboard side cladding can be put on to complete the basic form of the well. The shot locker lids and hardware will finish this off - I will try to make the hinges, etc, from brass, but my metal working skills are pretty much non-existent....a real impediment for scratch building....we'll see how it goes....
 
In the meantime enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

Making significant progress since I last looked in. Very nice, Hamilton!

Made the middle panel of the well today - same procedure as the aft panel with one added element - a 4" x 4" cross piece that defines the top of the shot locker and on which the hinges for the shot locker lids sit. This middle panel tenons into the central lower deck beam. The photos below show the parts dry fit on the cross-section.
 
Next up is the front panel of the shot locker, after which the port and starboard side cladding can be put on to complete the basic form of the well. The shot locker lids and hardware will finish this off - I will try to make the hinges, etc, from brass, but my metal working skills are pretty much non-existent....a real impediment for scratch building....we'll see how it goes....
 
In the meantime enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

A bit more progress to report on Echo. At this point, I will be making a lot of items and not installing them yet - I've reached the stage where I need to start thinking about how the structural elements (mast step, deck framing, mast partners) align to support the interior fixtures (well, pump shafts, bitt pins). So what you see below is all dry fit for now - in some instances a bit sloppily - till such a time as sets of elements (e.g., well, mast step, deck beams and pillar in the hold) can be installed together.
 
Today I cut the square mortice into the mast step, finished it with wipe-on poly and finished cutting and shaping the limber boards - because of a slight asymmetry in the milling of the groove in the limber boards, I had to make one set of limber boards 15" wide and the other about 15.5" - not a huge discrepancy but a little noticeable on close inspection. I also started on the well, making the aftmost panel, which tenons into the deck beam above and into the limber boards below. To make this, I took an athwartships measurement of the well from the plans and marked two lines on a piece of card paper that represented the outboard edges of the port and starboard stanchions of the well. I had a small strip of basswood glued to a slab of 3/4" ply and placed the card template against this - I could then take the 4" x 4" boxwood strips I milled put them against this stopper and aligned with the markings on the template. I clamped the boxwood stanchions and then milled some 2" x 10" planks to use as cladding. 
 
Cutting away the bottom plank to fit around the keelson and limber boards, etc. was pretty tricky. Once again, I made a template by laying a piece of card along the aft adge of the cross section and tracing the outline of the keelson, limber boards and limber strakes and cutting the card to this tracing. Quite a lot of little adjustments were needed until it fit reasonably well and I could transfer it to the wood strip (an extra wide one of about 12") at the bottom of the well panel. I rough cut the wood on the scroll saw and then finished with a flat needle file. It does not fit perfectly, but I think the results are ok for a first effort.....
 
I'll be finishing up the well over the weekend hopefully and if there's time I'll make the pillar that supports the forwardmost deck beam - I'll then be able to get started on the deck framing I guess....that's what's up in the practicum anyway - I'll have to try to puzzle out how to get the vertical alignments for the mast step/partners, pump shatfs, etc. - for this it seems necessary to get into the framing of both lower and upper decks at the same time....
 
In the meantime, enjoy the photos and happy modelling.
hamiltin

Made the middle panel of the well today - same procedure as the aft panel with one added element - a 4" x 4" cross piece that defines the top of the shot locker and on which the hinges for the shot locker lids sit. This middle panel tenons into the central lower deck beam. The photos below show the parts dry fit on the cross-section.
 
Next up is the front panel of the shot locker, after which the port and starboard side cladding can be put on to complete the basic form of the well. The shot locker lids and hardware will finish this off - I will try to make the hinges, etc, from brass, but my metal working skills are pretty much non-existent....a real impediment for scratch building....we'll see how it goes....
 
In the meantime enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton

Thanks for stopping in Brian! Yes, it does look that way - definitely not just you. But the parts are currently dry fit - it;s actually very tricky to set the parts up at this point and haven them sit nicely - this was the best I could get with my more or less steady-ish hands....when I do the final assembly of the well, I will definitely ensure that it is square and sits properly in its place! No one likes an unruly well!!
hamilton

Made the middle panel of the well today - same procedure as the aft panel with one added element - a 4" x 4" cross piece that defines the top of the shot locker and on which the hinges for the shot locker lids sit. This middle panel tenons into the central lower deck beam. The photos below show the parts dry fit on the cross-section.
 
Next up is the front panel of the shot locker, after which the port and starboard side cladding can be put on to complete the basic form of the well. The shot locker lids and hardware will finish this off - I will try to make the hinges, etc, from brass, but my metal working skills are pretty much non-existent....a real impediment for scratch building....we'll see how it goes....
 
In the meantime enjoy the photos and bye for now
hamilton