AndyMech

Hi,
 
A few posts back, Kim generously offered to build a display case for this ship, now completed.  I was really touched, but I had to turn him down as I had just started working with a friend of mine on building my own.  My friend has a nicely equipped woodshop in his basement and offered to help me out if I bought the materials.  I purchased an ebook with plans and started working on it about a month ago.  Out of respect for the eBook author, I'll not show full construction, but just a few shots of the work.
 
For a base, I used a half sheet of baltic birch plywood, 41" x 19":
 

 
I bought a nice piece of clear pine, and we ripped 3/4" square rods from it.  After they were done, we notched it 3/16" deep with a table saw.  These form the frame, the notches for the glass.  The supports are 30" high, which is maybe too tall, but better than too short!
 

 
The completed case awaiting stain.  I used General Finishes Prairie Wheat in gel form.  Wipe on, wipe off.
 

 
Stained:
 

 
After staining, I applied two coats of polyurethane.  Not the wipe on, but brushed and in semi-gloss.  
 
Just today, glass arrived, and here the glass is being installed.
 

 
I put in the ship, but it's not secured yet.  I'm going to wait until my cross section is done and I'll replace the canoe with the cross section - I hope it makes for a nice overall display.  Then, I'll mount the Connie on a base and screw that base to the display base.
 



 

Hi,
 
A few posts back, Kim generously offered to build a display case for this ship, now completed.  I was really touched, but I had to turn him down as I had just started working with a friend of mine on building my own.  My friend has a nicely equipped woodshop in his basement and offered to help me out if I bought the materials.  I purchased an ebook with plans and started working on it about a month ago.  Out of respect for the eBook author, I'll not show full construction, but just a few shots of the work.
 
For a base, I used a half sheet of baltic birch plywood, 41" x 19":
 

 
I bought a nice piece of clear pine, and we ripped 3/4" square rods from it.  After they were done, we notched it 3/16" deep with a table saw.  These form the frame, the notches for the glass.  The supports are 30" high, which is maybe too tall, but better than too short!
 

 
The completed case awaiting stain.  I used General Finishes Prairie Wheat in gel form.  Wipe on, wipe off.
 

 
Stained:
 

 
After staining, I applied two coats of polyurethane.  Not the wipe on, but brushed and in semi-gloss.  
 
Just today, glass arrived, and here the glass is being installed.
 

 
I put in the ship, but it's not secured yet.  I'm going to wait until my cross section is done and I'll replace the canoe with the cross section - I hope it makes for a nice overall display.  Then, I'll mount the Connie on a base and screw that base to the display base.
 



 

Hey anyone,
 
Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling.  As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have).  I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way.
 
So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12).  It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result:
 


 
Next up, I needed more experience.  I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet.  I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc.  A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model.
 
So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build.
 
I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can.  I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress.  Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Andy.
 
 

Hey anyone,
 
Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling.  As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have).  I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way.
 
So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12).  It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result:
 


 
Next up, I needed more experience.  I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet.  I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc.  A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model.
 
So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build.
 
I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can.  I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress.  Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Andy.
 
 

Awesome price - I hope it's intact inside when you get it.
 
As for ideas - I wouldn't have posted to a build log if I wanted to keep them to myself.  Use them, extend them, combine with other people's ideas.  Go for it.
 
Andy.

Awesome price - I hope it's intact inside when you get it.
 
As for ideas - I wouldn't have posted to a build log if I wanted to keep them to myself.  Use them, extend them, combine with other people's ideas.  Go for it.
 
Andy.

Do you plan on lighting the captains quarters? If not, it will be very hard to see in there. I spent a lot of time picking paint colors and detailing the furniture in there, and now it's completely invisible.
 
It's still worth doing, don't get me wrong, but do it for yourself mainly. Hardly anyone else will see it!
 
Andy

Hey anyone,
 
Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling.  As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have).  I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way.
 
So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12).  It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result:
 


 
Next up, I needed more experience.  I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet.  I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc.  A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model.
 
So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build.
 
I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can.  I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress.  Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Andy.
 
 

Ok,
 
Into the build - the first steps are setting up the frames.  Mamoli provides spacers (although not quite enough).
 




 
I did find the instructions a bit lacking - I didn't realize the need for spacers near the keel and added them in afterwords.
 

 
Finally, added the false keel.  This is supposed to be 72mm long but was only 70mm, so I had to center in the hull.  Not a big deal I don't think.
 

 
I'm pretty nervous about making mistakes, so I tend to measure 47 times before cutting or gluing.  Which brings me to my next wood related question, for anyone listening:  I'm supposed to cut a bit off the bulkheads to make space for top deck furniture - I don't think my #11 hobby knife is up to the task.  Any tools (saws or chisels) that would make this an easier job?  I'm going to be cutting a fair bit as this progresses, so I don't mind buying a good tool, just need to know what that might be.
 
Thanks,
 
Andy.
 
 

Hey anyone,
 
Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling.  As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have).  I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way.
 
So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12).  It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result:
 


 
Next up, I needed more experience.  I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet.  I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc.  A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model.
 
So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build.
 
I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can.  I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress.  Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Andy.
 
 

Next up was the gun deck painting.  I was going for a wood deck look without actually planking the deck.
 
Overall, I remember the steps as:
 
- Deck were spray painted black (seen previously)
- I applied a base coat of "wood" color
- Using the back of a #11 knife, I scored each plank line
- I mixed a little darker and lighter "wood" color paint by adding a few drops of black and white, then individually painted each plank a random color.  
- Probably had to re-score the plank lines again.
- Final step was to apply either a wash or drybrush black onto the deck for some detail and depth.
 
I tried both wash and dry brush and was happier with the dry brush effect.
 



Dry brush:

 
Wash:


 
I am also creating my own eyebolts out of wire to replace the plastic ones:
 

I finished adding the yard supports on all three masts -- only for the lowest yard.
 

 
Next was adding the jeers.  I started with the foremast.  The instructions call for the jeer blocks be 3 1/2 inches apart.  I found that 3 inches (for the foremast) was a better distance - maybe 3 1/8, but it allows for a better separation between blocks.
 
See for yourself.
 



 
Next up, the jeers on the mainmast.
 
Andy.

Thanks lambsbk, I appreciate the thought. It's my feeling that if you take care of the details, the big picture will take care of itself. Heck,so much so that sometimes I don't even step back and see the whole thing. All I see at night is the many, many little blocks that needed painting!
 
And Augie, my moment of weakness has passed. There's still work to do - lifeboats, the sailors, the permanent case. Maybe even rope coils, but lets not go crazy. Good luck with your own rigging torture.
 
Andy

I also glued on the cannon door covers as the instructions indicated and added the ropes to hold them.

Doesn't sound like a lot, but it took time, especially with 32 cannon doors to rig. 
 
Using pencils to achieve a uniform door position. Pencils were almost the right size for the door openings - the cards are there to ensure they are up against the upper frame and won't move during gluing.
 

 
The pencils holding the doors - this is either a dry fit or after gluing.

 
The pencils were removed after about 3 hours drying time. The results were a pretty uniform set of doors at a good angle.

 
All the ropes installed on one side of the ship

I believe I used the same eye that the backstays were tied to, so I've got three backstays and one halyard tied to that single (plastic) eye.  I do remember looking around at that area to see if I did it right.  I also think there will be unused eyebolts in the hull, near the rear cannons that won't be used.  Perhaps they were put there for sails, but I can't see where I'll hook anything up to them.
 
I'm glad my photos helped - it's getting quite complicated back there.
 
Small update - I painted what I think will be the final 18 blocks - I counted the blocks for the braces and ships boats and prepared them all.  I can see the end coming!
 
Andy.

I had a question (in the original log) about my paint and color choices.  For anyone who might care, here it is:
 
Hull:

Copper: Testors Spray Enamel 1251 Copper Metallic
Matt White: Tamiya Color for plastics TS-27
Matt Black: Tamiya Color for plastics TS-6


I believe both the white and black are also enamel.

Model Master Acrylics:
4714 Insignia Red (gun carriages)
4768 Flat Black (stern)

4769 Flat White (sternl)
4709 Dark Tan (belaying pins)
4673 Wood (pin rails, cleats, probably yards and boat fittings) (I used an enamel Wood on the decks)
4674 Leather (deck framing)
4675 Rust (fiferail, stairs, monkeyrail)
4681 Gun Metal (cannons)
4736 Interior Green (bulwarks, stern highlights)
4622 White Primer (not using that anymore, doesn't seem to be needed)
4601 Skin Tone (tiny bit on the stern figure)

Model
Master Enamels:
1735 Wood (deck base, and I added a little black or white enamel for the different shades of Wood)
1749 Flat Black (hull touch up, mixed with Wood)
1768 Flat White (hull touch up, mixed with Wood)


Testors Enamel (these are the small 1/4 oz bottles):
1144 Gold (hull detailing)
1111 Dark Blue (stern highlights on figure)
1140 Brown (captains cabin furniture)
1162 Flat Blue (captains cabin curtains, bench)


I think that's it. I'm pretty sure that will last the rest of the ship, with the possible exception of finding a dark green for one of the ship's boats. Based on a photo of the current Constitution, the hull of the port side boat is green, the others are white. But it seems a darker green than the bulwarks. We'll see when I get there. I have a Testors 1171 Beret Green enamel in my box from some previous project that might work. 

I also glued on the cannon door covers as the instructions indicated and added the ropes to hold them.

Doesn't sound like a lot, but it took time, especially with 32 cannon doors to rig. 
 
Using pencils to achieve a uniform door position. Pencils were almost the right size for the door openings - the cards are there to ensure they are up against the upper frame and won't move during gluing.
 

 
The pencils holding the doors - this is either a dry fit or after gluing.

 
The pencils were removed after about 3 hours drying time. The results were a pretty uniform set of doors at a good angle.

 
All the ropes installed on one side of the ship

Yes, thanks.  So, achieving a nice graceful arc in lightweight thread (instead of heavy rope) is difficult.  Make sense.  I personally am not willing to attempt a fake curve on a long line, set with glue etc.  It was hard enough to do on the footropes.
 
Andy.

I had a good 3-day weekend on the ship.  On Friday, I finished the lifts on all three masts and tied in the blocks to the crosstrees in preparation for doing the leech and bunt lines.
 
Saturday and Sunday, I completed the leech and bunt lines (step 5).  The upper ones tied off on the fight top railing, the lower ones through blocks and tied off at a railing.
 
I skipped step 4 for now so as not to work around those lines (sheets).  I'm going to look through the instructions and rig those lines that tie off near the mast base prior to doing some of the outside lines.  Next up will be rigging the bowsprit left and right, including the studding sail boom.
 
Andy
 
Foremast:

 
Mainmast:

 
Full ship as she stands:

I had a good 3-day weekend on the ship.  On Friday, I finished the lifts on all three masts and tied in the blocks to the crosstrees in preparation for doing the leech and bunt lines.
 
Saturday and Sunday, I completed the leech and bunt lines (step 5).  The upper ones tied off on the fight top railing, the lower ones through blocks and tied off at a railing.
 
I skipped step 4 for now so as not to work around those lines (sheets).  I'm going to look through the instructions and rig those lines that tie off near the mast base prior to doing some of the outside lines.  Next up will be rigging the bowsprit left and right, including the studding sail boom.
 
Andy
 
Foremast:

 
Mainmast:

 
Full ship as she stands:

I can see the light, perhaps, at the end of the tunnel, but I try not to think that way.  I'm afraid it would me to rush things and do a sloppy job of the final rigging.  Over the weekend, for example, I only added 2 lifts to the main mast and rigged a couple of blocks.  I'm on step 3 of the running rigging.  I may finish that step next weekend, if I can get some time in.  I'll post photos, perhaps, at the end of each rigging step.
 
Thanks for stopping by - appreciate the comments.
 
Andy.

Hello again.  I started this log back on November 1, 2011, and I think I've managed to salvage most of it.  I have all the photos, and will re-build the log as best I can.
 
Having been through catastrophic data losses before (professionally), I know the feeling the moderators must have and completely sympathize.  Re-boots and recovery are always difficult, but the "can-do" attitude of everyone here and the overwhelming friendly atmosphere obviously hasn't been lost.  For that, I am thankful.
 
Here's the last photo I took (some progress made since then, but not photographed).  I will start the log from the beginning when I have more time.
 
Andy.