hollowneck

That looks really good! Those 3d printed wheels on the carronade carriages look a lot better than the old PE versions.

Nicely done.  That does look sweet!!

Started fitting Adder out. I’d already made some of the fittings. She has very nice lines for a gun brig. 

Parts 173 go below the hawseholes on each side and are not mentioned in the instructions but are clearly on the plans - easy to miss if you just work from the instructions. 

The carronades still need PE parts 17 and 18 added. I’ve also left the sprue to the lower elevating arm for each carronades in place for now and will remove this at the last moment as I broke a couple of these on Grecian and they proved nigh on impossible to glue back on. 


I’m not fully rigging the guns but will certainly add breach ropes to the 24 pounders. I may add breach ropes to the carronades but I struggled to make these lie naturally on Grecian. 

The plans show six side steps on each side with the lower two on the main wale. Chris’s prototype in the instructions photos omits the lower two. I suspect that the plans are more accurate as the bottom of the four steps would be quite a reach from a small boat, but I’ve copied the prototype as it’s more aesthetically pleasing. The parts are there for six steps each side if anyone wants to add them. 

The deck and inboard fittings were treated with Danish oil and they came up very nicely. 
 
I’m not sure what to do on the exposed wood on the outer bulwarks and stern. I’ve scraped PVA glue off the bulwarks in places and I know from experience that Danish oil won’t be absorbed where the glue has been and would give me a blotchy finish. I guess I’ll try some poly varnish or make another attempt at mixing some wipe-on poly. I’ll put Danish oil on the channels to be consistent with wood fittings inboard. 

 

Top of the bulwarks painted black.
Then channels and upper rails fitted.
Gunwales painted black and glued. Eyebolts added to the inner bulwarks.


The gunwale across the stern needed to pre-formed to get the correct curve. I soaked it and let it dry for 24 hours.

On the stern the outer stern board was added followed by the rudder post cheeks. Then the aft gunwale and the black trim on the stern. 
I need to try a different white pain to touch up that matches the spray can white better. 
 
 

HMS SPHINX Build Comments & Observations
 
Note:
This post is not specifically a “What’s In The Box” Kit Review. The photos and comments have been prepared by ship modeler, Ron Neilson, in lieu of a full Build Log.
 
A Quick Summary by one modeler:
 
Although I am only about halfway through my build of the latest Vanguard Models kit, HMS Sphinx, and while I have made some of my own modifications (as any builder does), the process thus far has been excellent, thanks to the high-quality of this kit.
Many precisely cut pieces of mostly MDF and decent quality Swiss Pear have been provided. As I was building up the basic and extensive hull forms, I constantly referenced my calipers to double-check the fitting of parts. At first, I couldn’t believe the precision of these elements. In many cases, I measured +/- .005 – which is quite extraordinary. The construction in some areas is “Lego-like,” that is, “plug ‘n’ play.” This aspect of the fundamental hull “skeleton” also helps maintain precision tolerances across the entire length and breadth of the 1/64 ( 3/16” = 1 foot) model. The kit’s provided building jigs - which you assemble separately - are also very useful.
As witness to the unique design innovations embodied in the kit, what is shown in these photos was completed in less than forty-five days. I’d estimate that in the recent past, a model of similar complexity and scale would have taken me nearly twice the time. Vanguard has created a stunningly high-quality kit that can be crafted by any journeyman ship modeler with a moderate level of perseverance.
 
Precise, laser cut pear wood is employed throughout the build. The delicate “rails” along the hull are provided as pre-cut patterns which is a very interesting approach to creating these necessary elements. All gunports (22 including the bridle ports) align nicely with the layered approach to building up the bulwarks to faithful thickness. A single piece gundeck is delicately and precision-etched to indicate the tapered planking, trunnels included. The deck furniture pieces are all in pear and because they are lasered from similar stock, all match, beautifully. Although slightly tricky to align properly, the design of the amidships chain pump handle mechanism is brilliant. The same applies to the über-detailed hand pumps. Both are P.E mini-masterpieces that will be fun to build.
 
There is nice detail on the ironwork components. The deck coamings, hatches, bitts and various support stanchions lend themselves to nice extra detailing. The quarter galleries are always a challenge to fabricate, but the design in this kit is the best I’ve encountered thus far in years of building this era of sailing ships. The detail of the tiered P/E roof tiling is especially nice.
The severe stern tuck was worth the effort, the built-up rudder and cleverly-designed ironwork for the gudgeons and pintles is evident on close inspection.
 
The headworks are exquisitely designed and detailed with a combination of precision laser-etched pear pieces. I was impressed once more at the close tolerances of all these items that fit together like a glove. The single-piece upper stern cabin resin cast decoration is very clever and a definite showpiece of the model.
 
The extensive, decorative elements of this model are what will draw many modelers to make the investment in both time and treasure to build it. The sweep of the ship’s lines is very appealing; I can imagine that in real life, this was a gorgeous ship to behold, indeed. The clever design engineering, the fastidious manufacturing, excellent materials and comprehensive guidance provided in this high-calorie kit (the build manual and extensive, full-size plans) is exemplary; cleverness and ingenuity abounds throughout.  Did I mention the large, full-color, clearly photographed, 144-page Build Manual accompanied by twenty-three (count ’em!) extensive, full-size, actual scale (1:64) large plans? It boggles the mind initially when one opens the heavy (insert weight in pounds- 15lbs?) and sturdy box of goodies. The manual and plans alone must weigh 3 pounds. What kit manufacturer does this? Vanguard Models does. And there will be countless builders who want, need and can afford the exemplary challenges this kit provides. Regarding money, this kit’s ultimate value is that it can potentially deliver a museum-quality model and thus, in my world, it’s a bargain at twice the price.
 
The HMS Sphinx kit stands as the current pinnacle of Vanguard Models’ superb and innovative work over the last many years by the U.K.’s dedicated and well-regarded ship model kit designer, Chris Watton.
———-
The photos aren't in a chronological sequence, only random shots I've taken during my build to the date of this post. There will be more commentary and photos to come as I make more progress with my fun build. And why spend many solitary hours at this challenging hobby if it isn’t fun?

Be sure to use your NRG member discount to get 20% off of most items in our webstore!
If you misplaced the discount code, contact me at nrghomeoffice@gmail.com and I will give it to you.
 
Mary

Bob, you are the quintessential NRG member, your enthusiasm is infectious.  I'm proud to be your NRG colleague.

Are you a NRG Member?    YOU bet I am, with out a doubt. 
I join MSW three years ago, with the entry level membership.  After one year the amount of knowledge  and help I received was amazing.  Year two I tried to make more of a contribution.  The third year I up it a couple of levels,  
 The reason being that  NRG/MSW  was and is available to me,  The amount of fun I am having is priceless,  they are still trying to teach me how to build ships. . Lol 😆. 
I for one am a proud member, and will continue to support them.
So we (I)  can learn  how to build ships. 
Thank you NRG/MSW  and all  45, 955 thousand or so  members who have help an elderly gentleman  with his hobby,  and making him feel like he's 18 again lol  ok maybe 14 lol 
Bob M.
 

Post One Hundred and Fifty- four
This post follows on from Post 152 having a close relationship to anchors.
 
One of the reasons I made up the anchors is that I have also been thinking about anchor linings and billboards.
These do not feature with the kit and do not tend to appear on contemporary plans.

Many contemporary models show them, as on Amazon above. 
They were an important feature on ships of the period to protect the hull from the anchor flukes.

Chuck’s Winnie
My go to reference, here you can see the lining running over the wale.

7396
I added billboards to my Sphinx build as above.

3906
Having an anchor made up is useful in that the arc made by the anchor as it is swung horizontal from the cathead for securing, determines the position of the lining and billboards.
 
In considering Bolsters and Billboards for Indy I am hamstrung by the absence of specific sizes of timber to use. With Sphinx it was relatively easy having the TFFM book to refer to.
I know where these fittings were placed so it is basically down to what looks good to my eye.
 
I firstly made the Bolsters using some Boxwood square stock of 2.75mm. This was topped by some 3.5 x 0.7mm  boxwood strip.

3910
The length of the bolster worked out at 26mm. 
Notches were cut out of the back side to fit over the first two preventer plates of the Fore channels and a slight curve was induced to match the curve of the bow.
The bolster was fixed to the Black strake only with pins.
 

3913
With the bolsters  in place the Billboards can be made. For this I use some 1mm Boxwood scrap inscribed with 3mm wide boards which reflect the topsides planking.
 
The Linings

3914
These cover the main wale in the case of Indy and scribe an arc at the fore end that follows that of the anchor swing.
I settled on using some 0.6mm Pearwood scrap which suits my eye.
 

3917
3919

3929
In fixing the linings  I have used double sided tape. This gives me the option of easy removal if I decide I don’t like them, and the jury is still out on that.
 
Altho’ I’m not fitting the anchors I don’t think it will be an easy fit to get the bowers to look right.

3923

3924
If the bill is to rest on the Fore channel there is little room between the deadeyes.

3930
A possible fixing with the arm atop the fore end of the channel secured with shank painters around the timberheads.
 
I will be interested to see how others tackle the anchor rigging.🤔
 
 
B.E.
07/03/2024

Looks like the perfect balance to my eye...1 too few, 3 too many 🙂  The different paint tones really catch the eye and enhance the whole, very much to my taste as well.  Wonderful model you have there, very well done indeed!

Post One Hundred and Seventy
 
Completing the Cutter.
 
Apart from painting the bottom Ivory, and the wale Black/grey, the boat will be finished using w-o-p only.
 
The rudder is a plain laser cut affair intended I think to simply display in the sternsheets of the boat. There are no fixings to hang the rudder either on the stern post, transom, or rudder.
 
I chose to add these fittings including a tiller of the yoke type.

4287
Still requires a little further fining down, this is the third attempt which may still break.

4289
Trial fitting the rudder.; a few tweaks required.
 
One consequence of changing the rowing arrangement from double to single banking is that the provided oars are too short for purpose.

4290
They are fairly easily modified but it does require using two oars to produce one. 
To improve the look of the oars the blades should really be thinned towards the tip.

4295

4298

4299

4311
Set -up for single banked rowing.

4302

4306

4307
I quite like the look of her on the skids and the Pinnace and Cutter don’t obscure much of the Main deck.
 
B.E.
16/04/2024

Thank you  Nils and Nipper.
 
@ Nils - the figures  are  industrial workers  which I found suitable  for my Fishing boat models, but don't really fit naval figures of the early 19th century.
 
@ Nipper -  I don't really like action figures on my models, but I do like figures to demonstrate scale on a model. I agree the cook and the Pellew/Hornblower figures fit that bill perfectly.
 
Others that would appeal to me would be a Helmsman standing by the wheel, and a Marine Sentry to post outside the Captains Quarters.
 
I'm not holding my breath tho'😉
 
B.E.

Post One Hundred and Sixty – nine
 
Progressing the 24’ cutter
The floor of the cutter is covered by gratings at the stern, open boarded footwaling for the body, and a small close board platform at the bow.

4265
I changed the footwaling to a close boarded version as shown in the AotS book Diana which contains 1:48 scale drawings of a 24’ cutter.
 
Before I add the ‘false’ ribs I use a copy of the kit plan to mark the positions of the thwarts.
Positioning the ribs really needs to take into consideration the position of the thwarts and the related rowlocks for the oars, which are cut into the wash strake.

4268
The AotS drawings show the 24’ cutter arranged for single banked rowing. This is the arrangement I will follow, apart from any other consideration, there are less rowlocks to cut.

4270
I firstly fix only those ribs that fit aft of the thwarts before fixing the Rising, (thwart support strips) The remaining ribs can be slotted behind the Risings in the correct positions.
The risings are fitted using a 4mm depth gauge but in fact follow the line of the second strake down from the top.
 
Once fitted it is useful to check both the levels and the correct height of the thwarts above the footwaling.

4273
My 1:64 scale figures are useful for this purpose.

4275
I would like to see a sitting figure produced by Vanguard. A sitting Captain would serve well to give scale to the splendid Vanguard cabin furniture, and also the stern sheets of the boat range.

4277
I like to add small features to the boats such as here; the cap square for the Mainmast and step to take the mast heel on the Keelson.

4279

4280

4281

4280
Needs cleaning up now before finishing.
 
B.E.
15/04/2024
 
 

Been a long time since I've commented, but very much enjoyed catching up on your excellent work on this wonderful build.  Love the colours you've chosen on the pinnace which are a pleasant change and gives a very period feel.  I've just ordered this little kit myself from Chris, so hoping mine turns out half as well as yours.  Great stuff!

pff...such beautiful work man, you are a true artist!👍

Magnificent work Jason, that is truly impressive.
 
B.E.

Its scary to note that my last update was 9 months ago, much has dragged me away from keeping current with other's builds on this wonderful site, and making progress myself.  While not much, this brings me up to date.
 
Head Grating:
This caused much pondering!  Like everything, this had to be scratch built. and wasn't quite sure whether I could pull of the gracefully curved gratings that grace many period models.  In the end, this turned out to be a highly enjoyable little project.  The main framing elements were built following the layout and dimensions of previously assembled components.  The outside angled edge follows the curve of the main headrail, and the inside a foreshortened version.  No real secret other than use of lots of templates and continual trial fitting.  The larger framing elements were joined with a simple box joint for strength, the battens were individually shaped and glued end on.  Once completed, the front of the seats of ease were attached to simplify final installation.

Catheads, fo'c'sl plansheer and breasthook:
With the gratings finalised, it was possible to install the catheads with some confidence.  The breasthook was cut following dimension estimates from contemporary models (as much as possible) Prior to that however, the fo'c'sl plansheer was finalised, which required the underside where the catheads are located to be slightly angled to allow for the upward slope of the cathead given the overlap of the plansheer, and to ensure it sits flat.

Timberheads:
It was necessary t get my head around how I was going shape the timberheads, and figure out what was possible, so that I could both get some practice in shaping these and maximise the chance that these could be kept consistent and of an acceptable appearance.  I did not want to have to redo the head rails as these had taken many hours to make.  After some experimentation, the following approach seemed to provide the most consistent results for me.  2x5mm pear was used.
 
From left to right:
Preventer cuts were carefully made using a jig and #12 Exacto blade The edges were cut back gently to roughly preform the shape.  I found the wood surface had a tendency to break off even with care so there were losses.  Wipe on poly was applied at the cuts at this stage to both prove better visibility for further shaping, and also to harden the edges that had been formed The sloped  faces were further refined, again carefully using a #12 Exacto blade, sanding sticks and microfiles.  The top is deliberately made a little overlong as it makes shaping easier The top is reduced to final dimension... The overall height is reduced to final dimensions (in this case 10mm) Finalisation and installation of the main rail and grating:
The main rail could now be finally dimension and shaped.  As identified in TFFM, it did prove necessary to shape for rear outside profile to ensure it fits nicely to the cathead.  I couldn't find much in the way of detail here, but the AOTS Diana book shows a slight wedge of wood sitting between the hull and the head rail.  I decided to add two small wedges to ensure the headrail is fully secured to the hull.  The plansheer also had to be nicked to allow it to sit properly.

And with everything finally installed...I am greatly relieved and pleased with the way this has turned out as this proved to be a most challenging, but ultimately satisfying, adventure.  The fore seats of ease have been made up and will ultimate slot into the grating, but these will not be installed until the placement of the boomkins is determined as everything is very tight in this small area.

Wow, this is an epic build Jason!  Really amazing work.  👏

A great result Jason, very nicely worked out, you have  reproduced that elegant shape perfectly.
 
B.E.

The Ekeing and Cathead supporter:
 
The Ekeing is a detail as presented in the kit that consists of a simplified approach consisting of cat head supporter and ubiquitous white metal moldings.  I was determined to make this as prototypical as I could as shown on the plans.  Studying numerous contemporary models, this is a detail that seems to vary quite a lot, and I'm unsure whether this varied significantly from ship to ship, or whether the model builders took their own simplified approaches.   The following photos of Minerva helped a lot in visualizing this complex shape consistent with the original plans (photos are my own taken at the Rogers Collection).
This was a very humbling experience and definitely one of the more challenging pieces to make, requiring many hours of fiddling and sanding.  In short (!) , the Eking and cathead supporter needs to meet the following criteria:
 
Narrow from 3mm to approx 2mm at the middle rail to butt into it cleanly Follow the curve of the hull Extend the graceful curve of the middle rail up to the cathead when viewed from the side Be positioned such that the cathead sits snuggly against the top of the main rail, and is perpendicular to the hull Follow a smooth curve outboard from the cathead to the lower rail, the ekeing curving forward almost immediately below the cathead Pass just upward of the outboard hawse hole, but cross the inner....(differing from Minerva above)  
I had a couple of abortive attempts which while failures, were very helpful in helping me understand the approach described in TFFM Vol 2.   The best piece of advice here is focus on one curved face at a time.  A cardboard template was made to approximate the profile (this was initially estimated using the spare metal molding strips which work well for this).   (Note:  In the photos below, the various rails have been cut out to allow placement of the final rail.  (When the template was made this had not been done which made this a little more challenging and subject to approximation)

The profile of the hull at the bow was taken using a profile gauge and transferred to block of balsa.  The ekeing template was transferred to some 5mm pear sheet and cut out leaving quite a bit of excess.   The hull profile was then introduced onto the inward face.  The shaped balsa block helped a lot in this exercise to allow frequent validation.

Once the inner profile had been finalised, the card template could be used to fine tune the shape.  This has to be transferred onto the curved surface that will sit against the hull, and it important to remember that the profile on the outboard face will be different because the shape will follow perpendicular to the interior face (i.e. the hull).  Some excess was still left here to allow additional fine tuning.

The top of the profile was then thickened using some more 5mm pear, and the cathead supporters roughly shaped and glued into place.  The cathead supporters were attached perpendicular to interior face, not the exterior face.  This rough structure can then be further fine tuned, again using the template on the inner surface and ensuring that the top and bottom face are perpendicular to this along its length.  Following the advice in TFFM, The sternmost face was worked first, and once finalized, the inside curve was worked using the outside as a guide.  Once these had been completed, the outboard curve following the underside of the cathead supporter was introduced.
 
The lower version shown below still required a lot of fine tuning on the model.

Once happy with the shape, the position on the model could be determined, and the decorative rails cut to allow the ekeing to sit flush against the hull.  This was definitely a little nerve wracking and will require a little touch up when all is said and done.  (The outer surface profiling was not introduced until after this work had all been done and position finalised - these still require some finishing as these photos embarrassingly highlight...)  The end of the ekeing also needed to have the shape of the hawse hole introduced onto its lower edge to open that up.To allow the position to be determined, the catheads also needed to be madeup.  The "cathead" decorations on the end was made from polymeric clay and followed the very nice original example originally on Trincomalee and other contemporary models - they look a little more acceptable at a distance!  Not much else to comment on other than the dimensions and decoration were estimated from the original plans and inspired by contemporary models.  These will get further attention in due course.  The upper rail is still just pinned in place and will require the top to be shaped prior to final installation.

Overall, I'm very pleased with how this came together, the various lines seem to flow quite nicely when viewed from the side which was a goal entering into this. The plansheer, ekeing, catheads and upper rail are all still dry-fit at this stage....but think I can move forward with more confidence.
 

Cruiser Class was only 5 feet longer along the main deck, and 2 foot broader - both classes carried the exact same armament, but Harpy definitely had the more elegant lines. In 64th scale, hardly noticeable, size wise, but I am sure the nicer rake of Harpy will be.
 
The old kits I did were really just keel, bulkheads, main deck, and lots of planking. The new kits have many times more pre cut parts, with planking usually relegated to the lower edges of the main wale down (for the small to medium size kits at least)
 

Many innocent sheets of material died to bring you these pictures...
 
This is the fifth hull I have made up, with incremental changes with each new version. I usually just remove and replace the parts I change, but there are many interlocking parts with this one, that I felt more comfortable restarting the whole hull assembly with all updated designs, so that I know all fits as they should. This will not be the final form, however, but am comfortable continuing using the hull form (which is final) to get more information for parts that fit onto it.
 
Hull has been sanded, ready to take gunport bulwark template (which are next to design)
 
(This will be thrown away once all info has been garnered from it...)
 

At some point I shall

Hello!  I have been "lurking" here for several years (actually, I go way back to the email digest days), taking in all the experience and expertise (there is a difference) of the many builders and researchers, and have learned a ton about ships (and boats), shipping, history, nautical engineering, etc., on everything from ancient craft to modern warships.  But now it is time for me to cross the Rubicon, and get my first build going.
I built plastic airplane models as a kid, and very sporadically through my working years (mostly with my young kids), but "building a ship" was always in my "someday" plans.  Over 20 years ago I gifted myself with MS's Niagara, but was never able to get much beyond dry-fitting the bulkheads to the center keel, and that only about 2 years ago at my retirement. 
After following many logs (and yes, all of the Niagara logs), it seems wise to me to take the "Cautionary" advice to beginners, and start out with the Model Shipways Shipwright Series, from which I have already started the Dory.  I'm referencing the many existing Dory build logs.  My immediate learning is that it is one thing to follow a log, but quite another thing to actually put sandpaper and glue to wood--already have errors to correct and questions to ask.   
I'll get my Dory build log going soon.  And just maybe, someday, I'll get to that Niagara...
-Eric

Going back to the Oliver Cromwell's case - the last set of sticks is done. These are the top ones, that are a bit tricky.
These pieces are right on the viewing angle (or a bit above), so I tried to make them as thin as possible. A the same time, they should not sag.
To make them stiffer, I added a boxwood strip that joins them tightly, adds a bit of T-profile and ensures proper alignment:

 
LED strip is mounted on a 45 degree angle, facing the inner side of the case:


 
There would be two strips running in parallel, one on top of the case, one in the bottom. Testing both:

The strips are pretty high quality, so hope it would be ok!
 
Planning to finish the glue-up and assembly after the holidays