CPDDET

Hey W4LKR! I attempted to follow the taper instruction on sheet #2 as best I could: Here is a close up of the taper instructions: so the taper goes from 3/16th to 3/32nds, stopping short of the forward end of the stem. About halfway the stem tapers to 9/64th: And then finally to 3/32nds: Near the top (forward edge of the stem) the taper ends and the thickness goes back to the full 3/16th. This pic of the plan is looking straight at the top of the stem. I used a compass with 2 metal points (removed the lead point and replaced it with a metal one) to take measurements from the plans and transfer them to the false keel. You might want to take extra care when you get close to the top of the stem. I tapered it too far forward and had to use wood filler to reshape it. I found it a bit difficult to get the symmetry on the right and left sides shown in the last pic. First my right side taper went too far and when corrected my left side taper went too far. That's when the wood filler came in. My taper ended up a bit more rounded off that the plan shows. On the plan the bottom of the taper stays flat as it narrows. Hope this helps! Dave

Thanks Bob, it's great to have experienced people like yourself available for us newbies. I'm enjoying Bob Hunt practicum but I see the bulkheads in his course was made from basswood, much easier to fair than the plywood ones I have to deal with. I plan on heavily reinforcing the bulkheads to help when fairing the tough plywood. Have a great evening and thanks again. Dave

Ok. A bit of reading and viewing pictures answered my questions. I wasn't sure exactly when to fair the bottom edge of the bulkheads but now understand this is done after the bulkheads are glued in place. And of course the bottom edge of the bulkheads need to follow the edge of the beard line. DOH! I'll double check my steps, but it looks like bulkheads alignment and gluing will be next.

Work time: 1 hour Total time: 16.5 hours Tools used: none Material used: 150 grit paper which I glued to craft sticks. Got the char sanded off the bulkheads and dry fitted them. I found 150 grit paper worked well for this so I made up a few 150 grit sticks and got it done. Now the issues: About half of the bulkheads meet the beardline nicely: The other half are too long, although they are level at the deck with the false keel: So lets start with "A". I'm assuming I will need to shorten it, but do I also angle it to follow the curving beardline? (red line drawn on photo in photoshop, NOT on the actual ship) So its back to research and asking questions. Deborgens: I found Bob's profile and sent him a message. Thanks for the tip!

DBorgens, Would you have a link to Bob Hermanns build log or his username? Tried searching his name on the site but came up blank, probably because his username is completely different. And there doesn't seem to be a member lookup function. Dave

I call mine Xena the Destroyer..... Yes, I'm doing my research before actually doing each step. I check 14 build logs I've bookmarked on this site, read over the instructions that came with kit, read Frank Mastini's book, read Bob Hunts practicum and view Youtube videos by Gary Brinker. I'll be doing that this morning before sanding the char off all the bulkheads. That will give me a chance to "chew" on what I learned during the research and address anything I don't fully understand.

Just to sum up the work on the false keel: Work time: Around 10 hours Tools used: Xacto blades #11, #17, #18, #19 Mechanical pencil - .05 Jewelers round file Small metal square 6 inch metal ruler 12 inch metal ruler Compass with center wheel screw adjustment Clamps Ultra Fine Saw Blade from MicroMart (used to cut out bulkheads, not used on false keel) T-pins Supplies: 2 small pieces of 1/16th inch basswood Wood glue Emery boards Masking tape Rubbing alcohol Wood filler 400 grit sandpaper

Work time: 4:00 hours Total work time: 15.5 hours Tools used: Xacto blades #11, #17, #18, #19, Ultra Fine Saw Blade from MicroMart Material used: Elmer’s Wood Filler, emery boards, 400 grit sand paper I really didn’t like the way I shaped the stem. It was supposed to have this taper but mine sure didn’t. So on goes the wood filler and I’ll try again. I double checked the rabbet at the stern post and found it wasn’t as deep as needed, so I touched that up. I also decided to be daring and to deepen the rabbet all along the false keel. I know it was close and probably could have sanded down the hull planks after they were glued in, but I figured I should push myself a little and try to get it as close as possible by cutting. This is why I can’t have nice things with a cat in the house. Luckily a bit of wood filler will repair the damage from the hell cat. Looks like I had better keep my work room door closed when I’m not in there. I had to wood putty the extra piece of wood I added to the bottom of the keel, the bottom of the stern post and the seams where the 3 piece false keel joins as well. So got hat done and let it dry. Then reshaped the stem and sanded all other areas. I feel I now have the false keel where I want it. So it’s on to the bulkheads. These laser cut plywood pieces are a totally different animal than the basswood false keel. Trying to cut them loose with a Xacto blade just wasn’t working. So I turned to the “Ultra Fine Saw Blade” (purchased from MicroMart). This made the process much easier as the blade is thin enough to fit in the laser cut and cuts the plywood fairly easily. Cut from both sides and the bulkhead pieces fell right out. Tomorrow I will go about checking the symmetry of the bulkheads and fitting them to the keel.

Thanks, Fright! Took the weekend off; had to close down the yard for the winter on Saturday and Sunday was football. Back to it today. Dave

Makes me wonder if us tool_aholics have an edge in becoming the Irish cabinet maker? We are aware of our weakness and more wary because of it. Building with hand tools has some romantisisim to it. People often ask me why I bother to shave with a straight razor with all the honing, stropping and using lather from a brush and mug. Instead of using the latest 6 blade cartridge razor and foam from a can. Tough to answer, but there is something about using a well made tool with the knowledge of how to use it. But I'm getting off topic here. It's great to have all of you here to advise a newbie on tool selection.

Yep, places like MicroMark, Byrnes and Lee Valley are nirvana to this OCD afflicted, wanna be, model shipwright. Dave

Just received my first MicroMark catalog. Holy smokes!! This reminds me of when I first became a boat owner and later when I first became a RV owner. West Marine and Camping world sold more gadgets, do-dads, thing-a-ma-jigs and what-ja-ma-call-its than one could use in 3 lifetimes. As a dyed in the wool tool addict this type of paraphernalia is dangerous to be within a country mile of the house. This newbie will be seeking the advice of you more experienced builders about which contraptions are worth having before I dish out any of my hard earned moola. Dave

Work time: 4 hours Total work time: 11.5 Tools: #11 Xacto, dividers, emery boards, round file Supplies: glue, tape, pins Spent time yesterday and today tapering the stem and stern post and gluing in the stern post. I also glued in a thin piece of wood on the bottom of the false keel to even out the transition from the aft section to the amidships section. I found the stem to be the more difficult of the two as it’s a very long gradual taper. And getting it symmetrical on both sides can be a bit of an issue. I’m not overly pleased with the results but will take another look at it tomorrow. Sometimes it’s best to leave good enough alone, but that’s tough for me to do. The stern post is a bit weird as it tapers fore to aft and top to bottom. But for some strange reason I found this not too difficult, once I was able to wrap my head around the plan drawings. Also spent time flattening the taper from the beardline to the rabbet at the stern. I found that, after cutting the rabbet, the taper wasn’t very flat. It took a sharp dive about ¼ inch from the rabbet where I had made the first taper cut. Took a bit of time to get that area to a smooth, gradual taper. I’m learning that often it’s better to use an emery board, sand paper and a block or a small file than it is trying to shave the wood with a Xacto knife. It may take a bit longer but it sure saves on mistakes. And as soft as the basswood is, the sanding can go quite quickly. Dave

Thought I would pass along a few other I have received from members and another resource I found. "One word of advice. It is easier to remove more wood than it is to replace it. Good luck." "If you want to do a really good job, expect to replace the kit-provided blocks and deadeyes, the rigging line, and sailcloth with higher end after-market ones. (Syren Ship Models is your friend here. They won't break the bank.)" "For a wood model such as Bluenose, get a small bottle of yellow carpenter's glue. That small bottle will last for several kits. One of it's advantages is that it is dissolved with isopropyl alcohol. There are a lot of builders who swear by CA but I rarely use it. For those times that you need to bond dissimilar materials, two part epoxy is your best option" "PVA glue will be the main glue you ll use. Aliphatic has quick set and dries yellow, normal PVA has more opening time and dries more clear. Epoxy can be useful for laminating and gap filling or for gluing dissimilar material, is messy and temperamental and has somewhat of a learning curve. I use it a lot though, usually thickened with talk powder as it is brittle on its own. CA glue for specific tasks. My personal opinion, all PVA glues are created more or less equal, epoxy and CA most definitely are not. For scratch building, glue sticks (pratt etc) are useful for gluing paper patterns to wood." Another resource I found is Gary Brinker who has done a 40 part Youtube video on building the Bluenose. While Gary is not an experienced ship builder (Bluenose is his first ship build), he is an experienced builder of other type models. Cant say I agree with everything he does but he does have some good tips and tricks.

Thanks for the kind words and support, I need all I can get! I haven't yet started the bulkheads but just ran upstairs to check out the sheets. The plywood in my kit seems to be smooth and dry. I'm assuming your building a Model Shipways kit? My plan is to finish the false keel as much as possible before starting the bulkheads. I have the rabbet cut but only about 1/2 the required depth (need 1/16 and I'm at a bit more that 1/32). The advice I'm getting from another builder is that I could install the plank at this depth and sand off the excess as long as I don't have to sand the plank too thin. Right now I'm tapering the stem and finding there are times when I should be sanding instead of carefully planing with an Xacto blade. The false keel is basswood, very soft and easy to shape. Still have to do the stern post and even out the bottom of the false keel which is off a bit (see above posts) Let me know when you start your build log so I can follow along. As for reference material I'm using the same practicum, Frank Mastini's book, the build logs on this site and the following site by genericDave who is a member here as well. https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/category/bluenose-canadian-schooner/page/12/ Dave

I cut the rabbet and beardline taper on my Bluenose yesterday. When I lay in a small piece of planking to test the cut the angle is about right but I'm short on the depth by about 1/32 or so. My question is should I try to deepen the cut to make the plank flush with the false keel or could I just sand the the plank down after its glued? I'm a bit afraid of cutting through the false keel if I try to deepen the cut on both sides. I realize I'm still aways from planking but it would be almost impossible to deepen the cut after the bulkheads are installed. Advice for a newbie? Dave

Cut the rabbet Work Time: 3:50 hours Total work time: 7:50 hours Tools used: Xacto blade #11, #17, #18, #19. Metal ruler, masking tape Supplies: Rubbing alcohol, masking tape, piece of 3/16 inch basswood for practice. I finally got the rabbet cut, too many days of fretting about it and putting it off. My biggest fear was cutting the rabbet too deep. After all, the false keel is only 3/16 inch thick and each rabbet needs to be 1/16 inch deep. That doesn’t leave much room for error. So I placed a piece of tape across the tip of a Xacto #19 blade, leaving 1/16 of the blade exposed. As for the angle, I decided to wing it. I figured if I cut the rabbet at a steeper angle than what was necessary I had a better chance of not cutting through the false keel. And I could always open up the angle after tapering down from the beardline if needed. If your using a brand new blade out of the package you will need to clean as they come lightly oiled. Of course the tape wont stick to the blade with that iol coating. After taking about an hour to practice on the piece of 3/16 X 4 X 24 inch basswood I picked up at the local hobby shop, I took a deep breath and went at it.The first side took me 2:15 hours, the second side was much quicker at 1:10. I found out that it was easier for me to cut the rabbet and then push a Xacto #17 small chisel from about ¼ inch above the rabbet cut to the rabbet cut. I then completed the taper from the beardline to the rabbet cut with a wider Xacto #18 (when possible). In many places the distance from the beardling to the rabbet line is just too small for the wider chisel, then I used the smaller chisel. I also found out it was much easier for me to cut the taper going with the grain rather than against it. As for the rabbet line at the stern I used a wheel marking gauge to draw a line 1/16 inch from the edge of the keel on both sides of the keel. I then used a Xacto #11 to trim the keel at a sharp angle so it was flush with line I had drawn. I then tapered down from the beardline to the 1/16 on the back of the keel. In the photo below the right side taper has been finished In the photo below (badly out of focus) the left hand side has been rough cut to the 1/16th line. If I had to do it again I might do the cutting before gluing the false keel together. The smaller pieces might be easier to handle. But I have a good amount of space on my work desk so it wasn’t a big deal. I still have to glue a thin strip of wood to the bottom of the keel to even out the joint between the amidships and the stern piece. Hope to get that done tonight. I’ll have to think about faring the bow and stern post now or later in the build. Also when to attach the stern post. Dave

Took some time today to build a keel clamp. I had an old table top camera tripod with a swivel ball mount that could be put to good use. With the help of my nephew, who has a drill press, cut 2 - 12 inch pieces of 1 X 2 and installed a 1/4 X 20 threaded insert (the screw on the tripod is also 1/4 X 20). Drilled a hole at each end and inserted a bolt, secured with a wing nut. Then threaded the wood clamp onto the tripod Seems it will work well for fitting the bulkheads and planking. I'll modify it later so the hull can be clamped upside down. Tomorrow is Sunday and it's football season, so I wont start cutting the rabbet until Monday. Dave

I'm posting this here as well as in another forum, asking for some help / advice. I have just finished gluing the sections of the false keel together. The beardline and rabbet line have been transferred from the plans to the false keel and I will next began cutting out and dry fitting the bulkheads before cutting the rabbet. I have spent time looking through the build logs, instructions and reference books but found little devoted to cutting the rabbet. I would think this procedure is critical to fitting the hull planks correctly. While I don’t want to get too far ahead of myself, I do realize that each step taken will affect the next step Question 1: Should the stern post be fitted before cutting? This isn't clear to me. Question 2: I notice in various logs that on more than a few occasions the bottom edge of some bulkheads either do not reach the drawn bearding line or extend past it. My question is; Should the bulkheads be modified to match this line or should the line be altered to follow the bottom edge of the bulkheads? Thanks in advance for any information or advice passed along. Dave

Being a first time builder and approaching the cutting of the rabbet. I thought it best to ask a couple of questions and perhaps some advice. I do have a build log going but wanted to reach a wider audience so decided to post in this forum. I have just finished gluing the sections of the false keel together. The beardline and rabbet line have been transferred from the plans to the false keel and I will next began cutting out and dry fitting the bulkheads before cutting the rabbet. I have spent time looking through the build logs, instructions and reference books but found little devoted to cutting the rabbet. I would think this procedure is critical to fitting the hull planks correctly. While I don’t want to get too far ahead of myself, I do realize that each step taken will affect the next step Question 1: Should the stern post be fitted before cutting? This isn't clear to me. Question 2: I notice in various logs that on more than a few occasions the bottom edge of some bulkheads either do not reach the drawn bearding line or extend past it. My question is; Should the bulkheads be modified to match this line or should the line be altered to follow the bottom edge of the bulkheads? Thanks in advance for any information or advice passed along. Dave

Work time: (I should state this is actual work time, not including research, obtaining tools / material, set up / clean up, taking photos, log posts) 2:30 Total work time: 4:00 Tools used: Small square, metal ruler, Xacto knife, mechanical pencil, compass, emery board and clamps. (I changed over from dividers to a compass with a center wheel screw adjustment and found it easier to get precise measurements). Material used: 2 small pieces of 1/16th inch basswood to reinforce tab joints, wood glue I went back and re-checked my measurements for the “reference line” and found a small error which corrected the alignment of this line across all three sections. Now the top edges of the sections are even, the “reference line” lines up and the bottom of the bulkhead slots lineup as well. As it turns out the aft section isn’t too long, the amidships section is too short, by about 1/32 – 1/16 of an inch where it meets the aft section at the bottom. I checked vertical measurement of the aft section (where the stern post attaches) against the plans and against the stern post itself and found it to be correct. It looks to me like the bottom laser cut of the amidships section was cut at a slight angle because it mates perfectly to the bottom of the forward section but comes up short where it mates to the bottom of the aft section. I decided to transfer the bearding and rabbet lines to each section before joining them. After fooling around for about 45 minutes trying to transfer the lines with a compass I decided to follow the advice of others and cut the plans, lay them on the false keel section and trace them. Using this method, as well as a method passed along by Russ was much easier; seems like one needs a few different methods of taking measurements when doing these builds. I really need a large French curve so I can clean up these lines before I do any cutting. After using an emery board to smooth out the “nubs” left from cutting through the laser skipped tabs, I felt secure enough to glue the 3 sections of the false keel together and then deal with the bottom edge issue after the glue dries. This photo was taken before clamps were applied. I think the best way to fix the uneven bottom edge is to add a thin piece of wood to the bottom of the amidships section to make it even with the aft section and taper the forward edge to match the bottom edge of the forward section. Perhaps I’m being too precise with building the false keel, but I want to feel I did my best with it. And, to be truthful, I’m enjoying the precise work! Glue will need to dry for 24 hours so no work tomorrow. Saturday I plan to build my keel clamp and will post some pictures. Dave

Today marks the first day of my build. I cut out the 3 sections of false keel and marked the reference line on each piece before putting them together. I DID NOT glue these sections together as I have a few questions before I do that. WORK TIME: 1:30 TOOLS: Exacto knife, dividers, 6 inch and 12 inch metal ruler, mechanical pencil. Reading through the many build logs on this site I noticed that one issue mentioned quite often was the breaking of the aft section while removing it from the laser cut board. Using an Exacto knife I carefully and lightly scored through the laser cuts and cut the “tabs” from both sides until the sections literally fell off without any resistance. I then transferred the reference lines from the drawings to each section individually using dividers and also laying the sections on the drawing, sliding them slightly to expose the reference line on the drawing. Once I had the reference lines drawn, and double checked, on both sides of each section I dry fit them on a mounting board that will be used to glue and clamp them (using small pieces of 1/32 plywood over the joints to reinforce them). But before I glue these sections together I have a few questions. I have posted 2 photos below to help clarify what I’m asking. This photo shows the joint of the midships section to the aft section. As shown the top of the sections are perfectly level but the "reference line" is slightly off. At the bottom, the aft section is noticeably longer than the midships section. Will these be an issue in the future? Do they need to be corrected? How / when to correct this? This photo shows the joint between the midships section and the forward section. Again the top of the sections are perfectly level. However the "reference line" is off. The bottom of the photo show the forward section just slightly longer than the midships section. Will these be an issue in the future? Do they need to be corrected? How / when to correct this? One further question. I noticed in many of the build logs people are sanding off the laser char (and sometimes breaking parts in doing do). Is this really necessary? I realize that some char will be removed while faring the hull, but does all char need to be removed? Holding off gluing the false keel until I get some guidance, Dave

Thanks Chuck, have bookmarked these for future reading / research. Thanks to Russ as well, have downloaded the 8 parts of John Earls practicum for future reading / research. I'm still in the process of searching all build logs of this model on this site. Dave

Getting ready to begin my Bluenose model and have been reading through the build logs on this ship. Ive noticed the term "Gene Hunt Practicum" mentioned on more than one occasion. Can someone tell me exactly what this is and where to find it? Newbie, Dave

Log has been started and I will use that for all future questions. Thanks to all! Dave