CPDDET
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Total work time on this build is now 127.5 hours. After reading all the tips I received I made up something that made the tapering easier for me. Taking the board I had glued the abrasive cloth to, I cut a piece of 3/64th basswood about 2 inch wide and 8 inches long. I then glued the strip next to the abrasive cloth. This provided 2 advantages, it gave the plank something to butt up against and provided support for a metal ruler. The abrasive cloth keeps the plank from sliding around. Then I took a plank and, using a wheel marking gauge set at about 1/32nd, scribed the end of the plank. Then laid the plank on the abrasive cloth, along the raised 3/64th piece of wood. Using my 6 inch steel ruler I lined up on the scribed mark. Using a mechanical pencil I drew the taper on the plank. Setting the plank on edge, I used an 8 inch sanding block to sand down to the drawn line. This is one of the sanding blocks I used to fair the bulkheads. If I had planks to spare I might try adding abrasive cloth to the back of the 6 inch ruler to really grip the plank and try cutting the taper. But for some reason I have a tough time making proper cuts this way and it looks like I'm going to have just enough planks to finish the quarter deck. So for now I'll stick to sanding. Anyway, I managed to finish the starboard side of the quarterdeck. Still needs sanding and a few coats of wipe on poly. Thanks to everyone for sharing your expertise and helping the newbie move forward.
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Boy, that sure sound much easier, and very tempting. But with this being my first build, I wonder if I should continue tapering just to gain the experience. Tough decision.
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Had a few things on the "honey do" list but managed to get the first 6 quarterdeck planks in. Tapering using the Xacto chisel blade and then sanding with the 8 inch long, 3/4 inch wide block is working well. Things should move along now since I dont have to notch (nib?) and more planks until I hit the outside nibbing strake.
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Dave L, your comment just gave me another idea. In order to fair the bulkheads I had made up 6 sanding blocks. Three are ¾ inch wide and three are 1 ½ inches wide, all are 8 inches long. I glued 100, 150 and 320 grit paper to these. I think using the ¾ inch wide block with 150 grit paper would work better than the fingernail file stick I’m now using. I’ll give it a try tomorrow. As for the abrasive cloth I glued to one side of the metal ruler and on the wood plank, it does work great on larger pieces of wood; really grips the piece being cut. It’s just that these deck planks are so thin it’s very difficult to keep the ruler on them while cutting the taper.
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Thanks for your thoughts on this Dave, I'm currently working on the first 6 center planks of the quarterdeck, 4 of which have to be tapered as well as notched (nibbed?) to fit around the previously set planks. It's taken me 3 hours to lay the first 4 planks but I'm getting better at it. My idea of using the "sanding sticks" didn't work out, at least not for these very narrow deck planks and a 5-6 inch taper. I ruined 2 or three plank boards trying to taper them this way and cutting them with a scalpel. I've found I'm much better with a chisel than I thought. I use the "sanding sticks" to hold the plank and draw the taper line. Then I use an XACTO chisel blade to work down close to the drawn line. I finish the last few millimeters with a fingernail sanding stick, setting the plank on the factory edge and sanding down to the drawn line. It's a bit slow but it's working for me and, so far, I'm happy with the result. I should finish the first 6 boards tomorrow and will post a pic of the finished work.
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Can't make any suggestions as, like you, I'm in the process of my first build as well. I can say that my Bluenose won't be perfect but I'm getting better as the build progresses. That said, I'm looking at this first build as a learning process and I know my next build will be better. Keep up the great work and don't be too hard on yourself.
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Prepping to plank the aft deck. I noticed that many of the planks on the aft deck will need to be tapered for about 5-6 inches down to about half their width (3/32). I have always had trouble with these very narrow cuts as my metal ruler seems to slip a lot on the basswood while cutting. In order to alleviate this I'm trying something new. I took my metal ruler, a piece of 1/8 in thick basswood with a factory edge, abrasive cloth (used by plumbers to clean copper pipe), spray adhesive and painters tape out to the garage. I marked the width of the abrasive cloth and masked the rest of the basswood piece. Cut a strip of the abrasive cloth for the basswood piece as well as for the metal ruler. Sprayed adhesive on the back side of the abrasive cloth, back side of the ruler and the exposed area of the basswood piece and waited a minute before gluing. My hope is that the grit of the abrasive cloth will "trap" and hold the piece I'm cutting and prevent the ruler from slipping.
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That was my thought. But it might be easier to make it one piece and then scribe it so it appears to be 2 boards.
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Have a question about the deck end planks. These 2 planks form the edge of where the aft deck planking ends. Does one have to make these from 1/16 in. thick stock? Or are they somewhere on one of the laser cut pieces? Help on this would be much appreciated. Dave
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I agree and thanks for your advice. I'll use some scrap pieces and try burnishing, sealer and wipe on. Might even be a combination of these for the best finish. Dave
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Thanks Dave, I figure I'll do the final finish and a coat of wipe on when I finish the aft deck, and do them both at once. Another thing I want to try is burnishing basswood with a piece of brown paper bag before painting. Would like to find a way to keep paint bleed to a minimum. Basswood is so absorbent. Perhaps a coat of wipe on poly or sanding sealer before painting? Seem like sanding or scraping just fuzzes up the grain. Dave
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Not sure I fully understand. But could you edge glue 2 or 3 planks together to form a wider strake? This has worked for me in the past.
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Thanks for the "push", just what I needed. Just finishing up planking the foredeck. Ran into a small issue. Should be able to post about it later this evening.
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Ship's name on transom
CPDDET replied to JamesBhm's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Perhaps there is someway to contact someone at Royal Museums Greenwich and get the info you need? -
Your progress on these ships just amazes me. Don't know where you find the time. But your progress inspires me to spend more time on mine.
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Ship's name on transom
CPDDET replied to JamesBhm's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
https://www.rmg.co.uk/discover/behind-the-scenes/blog/what’s-name-hms-‘victory’-and-naming-ships-long-18th-century Here is an interesting link. While it doesn't answer your question exactly, it may prove to be a resource to get the correct answer. -
Yes, Go to the section entitled build logs from model kits. BUT Read the entry "read this first". This will explain how to name your log as well as the rest of the procedure.
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Keep us posted!
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My build is going slowly as well. But my build log is a great place to keep notes for future builds, so I don't make the same mistakes again. At times I get advice and support when I update the log. The log reminds me how far I've progressed. Keeping the log helps to motivate me to keep my commitment to the build. Open your build log and I will gladly follow it. Us newbies need all the support we can get.😀
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Yep, they shipped me 20 new hull planks. No charge for the wood or for the shipping cost.
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While I'm not building the same model, I had made an error when planking the hull of my Bluenose and attempted to " work around it". Things only got worse so I tore out a good 30 percent of the hull planks. Ordered replacement wood and got it done right the second time. Yes, it added time and labor to the build but I'm in no hurry and feel better knowing it's done correctly. JMHO
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