CPDDET

Cut the rabbet Work Time: 3:50 hours Total work time: 7:50 hours Tools used: Xacto blade #11, #17, #18, #19. Metal ruler, masking tape Supplies: Rubbing alcohol, masking tape, piece of 3/16 inch basswood for practice. I finally got the rabbet cut, too many days of fretting about it and putting it off. My biggest fear was cutting the rabbet too deep. After all, the false keel is only 3/16 inch thick and each rabbet needs to be 1/16 inch deep. That doesn’t leave much room for error. So I placed a piece of tape across the tip of a Xacto #19 blade, leaving 1/16 of the blade exposed. As for the angle, I decided to wing it. I figured if I cut the rabbet at a steeper angle than what was necessary I had a better chance of not cutting through the false keel. And I could always open up the angle after tapering down from the beardline if needed. If your using a brand new blade out of the package you will need to clean as they come lightly oiled. Of course the tape wont stick to the blade with that iol coating. After taking about an hour to practice on the piece of 3/16 X 4 X 24 inch basswood I picked up at the local hobby shop, I took a deep breath and went at it.The first side took me 2:15 hours, the second side was much quicker at 1:10. I found out that it was easier for me to cut the rabbet and then push a Xacto #17 small chisel from about ¼ inch above the rabbet cut to the rabbet cut. I then completed the taper from the beardline to the rabbet cut with a wider Xacto #18 (when possible). In many places the distance from the beardling to the rabbet line is just too small for the wider chisel, then I used the smaller chisel. I also found out it was much easier for me to cut the taper going with the grain rather than against it. As for the rabbet line at the stern I used a wheel marking gauge to draw a line 1/16 inch from the edge of the keel on both sides of the keel. I then used a Xacto #11 to trim the keel at a sharp angle so it was flush with line I had drawn. I then tapered down from the beardline to the 1/16 on the back of the keel. In the photo below the right side taper has been finished In the photo below (badly out of focus) the left hand side has been rough cut to the 1/16th line. If I had to do it again I might do the cutting before gluing the false keel together. The smaller pieces might be easier to handle. But I have a good amount of space on my work desk so it wasn’t a big deal. I still have to glue a thin strip of wood to the bottom of the keel to even out the joint between the amidships and the stern piece. Hope to get that done tonight. I’ll have to think about faring the bow and stern post now or later in the build. Also when to attach the stern post. Dave

Took some time today to build a keel clamp. I had an old table top camera tripod with a swivel ball mount that could be put to good use. With the help of my nephew, who has a drill press, cut 2 - 12 inch pieces of 1 X 2 and installed a 1/4 X 20 threaded insert (the screw on the tripod is also 1/4 X 20). Drilled a hole at each end and inserted a bolt, secured with a wing nut. Then threaded the wood clamp onto the tripod Seems it will work well for fitting the bulkheads and planking. I'll modify it later so the hull can be clamped upside down. Tomorrow is Sunday and it's football season, so I wont start cutting the rabbet until Monday. Dave

I'm posting this here as well as in another forum, asking for some help / advice. I have just finished gluing the sections of the false keel together. The beardline and rabbet line have been transferred from the plans to the false keel and I will next began cutting out and dry fitting the bulkheads before cutting the rabbet. I have spent time looking through the build logs, instructions and reference books but found little devoted to cutting the rabbet. I would think this procedure is critical to fitting the hull planks correctly. While I don’t want to get too far ahead of myself, I do realize that each step taken will affect the next step Question 1: Should the stern post be fitted before cutting? This isn't clear to me. Question 2: I notice in various logs that on more than a few occasions the bottom edge of some bulkheads either do not reach the drawn bearding line or extend past it. My question is; Should the bulkheads be modified to match this line or should the line be altered to follow the bottom edge of the bulkheads? Thanks in advance for any information or advice passed along. Dave

Being a first time builder and approaching the cutting of the rabbet. I thought it best to ask a couple of questions and perhaps some advice. I do have a build log going but wanted to reach a wider audience so decided to post in this forum. I have just finished gluing the sections of the false keel together. The beardline and rabbet line have been transferred from the plans to the false keel and I will next began cutting out and dry fitting the bulkheads before cutting the rabbet. I have spent time looking through the build logs, instructions and reference books but found little devoted to cutting the rabbet. I would think this procedure is critical to fitting the hull planks correctly. While I don’t want to get too far ahead of myself, I do realize that each step taken will affect the next step Question 1: Should the stern post be fitted before cutting? This isn't clear to me. Question 2: I notice in various logs that on more than a few occasions the bottom edge of some bulkheads either do not reach the drawn bearding line or extend past it. My question is; Should the bulkheads be modified to match this line or should the line be altered to follow the bottom edge of the bulkheads? Thanks in advance for any information or advice passed along. Dave

Work time: (I should state this is actual work time, not including research, obtaining tools / material, set up / clean up, taking photos, log posts) 2:30 Total work time: 4:00 Tools used: Small square, metal ruler, Xacto knife, mechanical pencil, compass, emery board and clamps. (I changed over from dividers to a compass with a center wheel screw adjustment and found it easier to get precise measurements). Material used: 2 small pieces of 1/16th inch basswood to reinforce tab joints, wood glue I went back and re-checked my measurements for the “reference line” and found a small error which corrected the alignment of this line across all three sections. Now the top edges of the sections are even, the “reference line” lines up and the bottom of the bulkhead slots lineup as well. As it turns out the aft section isn’t too long, the amidships section is too short, by about 1/32 – 1/16 of an inch where it meets the aft section at the bottom. I checked vertical measurement of the aft section (where the stern post attaches) against the plans and against the stern post itself and found it to be correct. It looks to me like the bottom laser cut of the amidships section was cut at a slight angle because it mates perfectly to the bottom of the forward section but comes up short where it mates to the bottom of the aft section. I decided to transfer the bearding and rabbet lines to each section before joining them. After fooling around for about 45 minutes trying to transfer the lines with a compass I decided to follow the advice of others and cut the plans, lay them on the false keel section and trace them. Using this method, as well as a method passed along by Russ was much easier; seems like one needs a few different methods of taking measurements when doing these builds. I really need a large French curve so I can clean up these lines before I do any cutting. After using an emery board to smooth out the “nubs” left from cutting through the laser skipped tabs, I felt secure enough to glue the 3 sections of the false keel together and then deal with the bottom edge issue after the glue dries. This photo was taken before clamps were applied. I think the best way to fix the uneven bottom edge is to add a thin piece of wood to the bottom of the amidships section to make it even with the aft section and taper the forward edge to match the bottom edge of the forward section. Perhaps I’m being too precise with building the false keel, but I want to feel I did my best with it. And, to be truthful, I’m enjoying the precise work! Glue will need to dry for 24 hours so no work tomorrow. Saturday I plan to build my keel clamp and will post some pictures. Dave

Today marks the first day of my build. I cut out the 3 sections of false keel and marked the reference line on each piece before putting them together. I DID NOT glue these sections together as I have a few questions before I do that. WORK TIME: 1:30 TOOLS: Exacto knife, dividers, 6 inch and 12 inch metal ruler, mechanical pencil. Reading through the many build logs on this site I noticed that one issue mentioned quite often was the breaking of the aft section while removing it from the laser cut board. Using an Exacto knife I carefully and lightly scored through the laser cuts and cut the “tabs” from both sides until the sections literally fell off without any resistance. I then transferred the reference lines from the drawings to each section individually using dividers and also laying the sections on the drawing, sliding them slightly to expose the reference line on the drawing. Once I had the reference lines drawn, and double checked, on both sides of each section I dry fit them on a mounting board that will be used to glue and clamp them (using small pieces of 1/32 plywood over the joints to reinforce them). But before I glue these sections together I have a few questions. I have posted 2 photos below to help clarify what I’m asking. This photo shows the joint of the midships section to the aft section. As shown the top of the sections are perfectly level but the "reference line" is slightly off. At the bottom, the aft section is noticeably longer than the midships section. Will these be an issue in the future? Do they need to be corrected? How / when to correct this? This photo shows the joint between the midships section and the forward section. Again the top of the sections are perfectly level. However the "reference line" is off. The bottom of the photo show the forward section just slightly longer than the midships section. Will these be an issue in the future? Do they need to be corrected? How / when to correct this? One further question. I noticed in many of the build logs people are sanding off the laser char (and sometimes breaking parts in doing do). Is this really necessary? I realize that some char will be removed while faring the hull, but does all char need to be removed? Holding off gluing the false keel until I get some guidance, Dave

Thanks Chuck, have bookmarked these for future reading / research. Thanks to Russ as well, have downloaded the 8 parts of John Earls practicum for future reading / research. I'm still in the process of searching all build logs of this model on this site. Dave

Getting ready to begin my Bluenose model and have been reading through the build logs on this ship. Ive noticed the term "Gene Hunt Practicum" mentioned on more than one occasion. Can someone tell me exactly what this is and where to find it? Newbie, Dave

Log has been started and I will use that for all future questions. Thanks to all! Dave

This will be my first build and I welcome any comments, suggestions and questions. Living in a duplex that’s built on a slab we don’t have a basement and the garage isn’t heated, so I’m using a desk the spare bedroom. I’ve done what I can to protect the desktop and the carpet below the desk. Since we will be spending the next week enjoying our last camping trip of the season I won’t be able to start my build until the weekend of October 20th. But I do have my work area set up and spent 1 ½ hours doing the kit inventory. My plan is to explain my next step as I go along and then wait for feedback from more experienced model shipwrights before actually doing the work. When I return next week I will be cutting loose the 3 sections of the false keel, marking the reference line and bulkhead stations on both sides and assembling the false keel. Any suggestions on cutting loose the false keel sections without breaking / damaging anything? Any suggestions on the best way to transfer the reference line and bulkhead stations from the plan to the wood? Looking forward to starting my first build, Dave

I'm about to start my first build, Model Shipways "Bluenose". My work area is ready, the kit invitoried and plan sheet #1 hung. Before I assemble the 3 piece keel I have a beginners question. I see the reference line will need to be drawn on both sides of the keel sections before they are joined together. I was thinking that using dividers to transfer measurements from the plans to the wood might be the easiest way to go. I could take several measurements from different points of the keel plans. Is this the best way to transfer these measurements? Would using the same method for the rabbet and bearding lines work? Is there a better way to transfer these measurements? Dave

Great advice! And thanks to all. Could you tell me more about glues? I see there are different viscosities of CA and wood glue may be used as well? Never fear, haven't purchased any tools yet; just asking questions as part of research. I already own a cordless Dremel but would have reservations about using it until I had much more experience (it could remove a lot of wood very quickly). The kit will arrive on Monday but I'm leaving for Arizona on Tuesday. So the box will remain unopened until I return home the following week. Dave

I've decided on my first build , downloaded and read over the instructions and also read Frank Mastini's book "Ship Modeling Simplified". In order to spread the cost of buying good tools, I'm going to purchase only what I need for each stage of the build. I used the kit instructions and Mastini's book to make my tool list but have a few questions for the more more experienced builder on a few items. 1. Block plane: Size and manufacturer? 2. X-ACTO Razor Saw Blade: X239 extra fine 54 tooth or X235 medium 40 tooth? Or both? 3. Miniature File set: number in set and manufacturer ? 4. Miniature Chisel set: number in set and manufacturer ? 5. Is a coping saw needed in addition to the X-Acto saw? If so, size and manufacturer? I should add the model will be the Model Shipways Bluenose II in 1:64th scale with a finished length of 32 inches, as this may determine the size of the block plane and other tools on the list. Thanks in advance for your assistance, Dave

I could get Bluenose in a double plank kit made by ARTESANIA LATINA. But after viewing the results of the ongoing poll on this site I feel better about the MS kit, even though its single plank. I would like to give myself every advantage for my first build and getting a quality kit will help to that end. I have received, and read through Franks Mastini's book, Ship Modeling Simplified. Hardly seems like anything is simple about this craft but Mastini's instructions give me hope and a sense of confidence. After reading the book my head was spinning but when I thought about taking one step at a time (just think about building the hull) and not getting ahead of myself, I felt much better. It's a tough choice for me between these two kits as they are both beautiful ships and while the Latham is a slightly larger scale, the Bluenose cost less; money that could be put toward tools. But I have to get my feet wet sooner or later so I will be ordering the Bluenose. Dave

"....... but I will add this if I may: your build should govern your tool kit. Not the other way round." Chris I appreciate everyone's advice and comments, thank you all for taking time out of your day to post a reply. After reading the advice from Chris (quoted at the top of this post) it suddenly struck me; what's the hurry? I realized I was getting ahead of myself with some of these inquiries. And if I'm not careful I'll get ahead of myself with the build. Time to slow down. I think it best to purchase tools as I need them and, as others here have advised, buy quality tools. After all, "haste makes waste". And if it takes a few days to obtain a needed tool it will make little difference in the overall time of the build. How ever I will ask about the brands of quality tools for this work. I have my doubt that Snap-On, SK or Klein would have the type of tools needed. Dave

The advice I've received on this forum is to choose something I really like for my first build. With that in mind I have picked 2 different models and would like to hear from more experienced builders if one of these would be better for a first time build. I believe, because of the model numbers, these are Model Shipways Kits. Both are plank on bulkhead. Model Expo No. MS2109 Benjamin Latham Length 33" / Height 27" / Scale 1/4" = 1 ft. (1:48) https://modelexpo-online.com/model-shipways-benjamin-latham-1-48-scal Model Expo No. MS2130 Bluenose Canadian Schooner Length 32" / Height 26-1/2" / Scale 3/16" = 1 ft (1:64) https://modelexpo-online.com/model-shipways-bluenose-canadian-schooner-1-64-scl Any comments are welcome! Dave

As stated in my New Members Intro "still deciding", I'm in the process of assessing this craft to see if its something I want to undertake; a decision I'm not taking lightly. While cost isn't a big concern, I wouldn't want to purchase something I really don't need or won't be comfortable. I have 2 questions for the experienced shipwrights on this site. The first about tools because as with anything from vehicles to RVs to boats, the right tools make the job easier. The second about workstations. It appears that this work is not something to be done at the kitchen table. 1. Tools. I see there are various tool kits offered on the web and wondered if these are workable for the beginner. Do brands make a difference? Tools needed but not included in these kits? Tools / supplies you find indispensable? 2. Workstation. Do you find a standard table and chair height comfortable or does a workbench with taller stool a better choice? Seeing this work demands time and patience I would think comfort is key. How much work space is required? Lighting? Dave

Thanks you all for the welcome and much needed advice. As things progress I will have many more questions and hope to learn from all of you. There's no replacement for experience. Dave

Hi all, and thanks for letting me explore your craft. My interest in ships and sailing began with a vacation to Cape Cod, many years ago. Knowing that I would be near the old whaling center of the country I decided to re-read Moby Dick and visited both the New Bedford and Nantucket Island whaling museums. Returning home I took sailing lessons and eventually purchased my own small sloop. I had the pleasure of sailing the Great Lakes, making a few solo crossings, as well as spending time in the Gulf of Mexico and the Leeward Islands. Being a bit older now, and having sold my beloved 30 foot S2, I’m interested in perhaps building boats rather than sailing them, although I do on occasion sail a small Pearson Ensign with a friend in Milwaukee. Not wanting to dive into something that could be expensive without knowing more I happened on this web site, which seemed to be home to serious model shipwrights. And after browsing around I found what I thought to be solid advice for someone like me. I invested $9.25 in Ship Modeling Simplified and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits by Frank Mastini. It’s my hope that this book will not only give me insight into the world of model construction, but also give me some idea of necessary tools and work area. Once I receive this book and have time to digest it, I’ll be back looking for further advice or to say this just isn't for me. Dave K