CPDDET

Ouch!!!

As the holiday season approaches the family is asking me for a gift list. I figure you can never go wrong with tools. I'm a newbie at ship building and just starting to build my tool collection. So wanted to ask you more experience builders which tools you find to be your favorites or indispensible or for this hobby. Maybe something that's really not critical but would be nice to have. This could include tools for any purpose: cutting, shaping, clamping, gluing, painting et. Prices can range from a few dollars and up. Gift ideas? Dave

Y.T The product description of the MicroMark push hammer includes the term "spring loaded barrel". I really can't explain what that means since I've never owned the tool.

I'm following Bob Hunt's practicum on building the Bluenose. On the installation of the waterway he recommends using pins to hold the waterway in place after applying glue. However, the kit he used to write the practicum had basswood bulkheads, while mine are plywood. So the pins need to penetrate the endgrain of the plywood. So I'm not espically looking for an alternate method, I'm looking for the proper tool to do this job. Odds are I will have more pinning to do during this build. But I'm willing to keep an open mind, Dave

Is anyone using a spring loaded push hammer, such as the one sold by MicroMark? I have been using T-pins and pushing them in by hand but some parts of my kit are made from plywood and pushing the pins by hand is really tough. I have to push so hard while supporting the hull with my other hand I'm afraid im going to break something. I tried pushing the T-pins in with needle nose pliers but that didnt work very well either. Was wondering if the spring in the push hammer is strong enough to penetrate the plywood. Any feedback on the easiest way to insert pins for temporary holding of parts while glue dries? Would first drilling and then pinning work? Thanks in advance! Dave

Work time: 3.00 hours Total work time: 21.5 hours Tools used: Utility knife, T-pins, .05 mechanical pencil, small camel hair brush to apply glue Supplies used: Glue, two 24 inch 1/16 inch thick basswood x 3/8 wide Today things just took a little longer. I know I had to attach battens across the bulkheads but what method to use? I really don’t like using T-pins because the plywood bulkheads are so darn hard. So I thought maybe pushpins or carpet tacks or CA glue. After experimenting a bit I ended up going back to the T-pins. I sharpened them a bit on fine grit paper which helped some but I still have a sore thumb from forcing them into the edge of the plywood. Per Mastini’s instructions I cut a 24 inch of 1/8 basswood, 3/8th wide and laid it on the keel with the bulkheads inserted. Using a pushpin, I tacked the strip to bulkhead I had glued in yesterday and marked the center of each bulkhead slot on the strip. As I attempted to push pin the rest of the bulkheads the pins kept popping out. Then I realized that the aft deck and the fore deck are different heights and the batten kept pushing itself up, making the push pins pop out. The push pins were splitting the 1/8 inch thick basswood anyway and I needed another approach. To avoid this I decided to place 2 battens on the higher aft section and 2 battens on the lower foreword section. But first I would need to glue in a “starter” bulkhead for the aft section. So out came the square, glue and a scrap piece of wood to hold the batten in place. I attached the brace batten with CA glue and used TiteBond on the joint. While that bulkhead was drying I worked on the fore deck section. I decided to use 1/16th inch thick basswood instead of the 1/8th inch thick for the battens and cut those from my stock with a utility knife. I lined up the batten on top of the keel and marked center of each bulkhead; then transferred those marks to a second piece of basswood. I went back to the T-pins, sharpening them a bit on 400 grit paper. They worked, but my thumb and finger is still sore from forcing them into the plywood. Finally got both battens pinned in on the fore section. But somehow forgot to trim the length of one batten and didn’t notice it until I had it all pinned in; have no idea how that happened. I wasn’t about to remove the pins and start over so I tried to trim the piece with scissors; no soap. Ran out to the garage and grabbed my favorite cutters made by Wiss and snipped it right off. By now the aft “starter” bulkhead was firm enough to remove the brace, which snapped right off. I then marked the 2 battens for the aft section and pinned those in. Using a small brush, I glued all the bulkhead / keel joints. I suppose one could use CA to tact the battens to the bulkheads instead of T-pins. But I have little experience with CA and was afraid I might break something trying to remove the battens. I’ll let that dry overnight and glue in ¼ X ¼ “timbers” between the bulkheads tomorrow.

Work time: 2.0 hours Total work time: 18.5 hours Tools used: 12 inch steel ruler, steel square, .05 mechanical pencil, scissors, T-pins Material used: Tack cloth, glue, copy paper, 1/16 inch thick basswood strips Finished up work on the bulkheads today and did a few things that probably weren’t necessary. But I figure this is my first build and it wouldn’t hurt to gain some experience in things that may come up in future builds. Or the process may expose a mistake I missed. I couldn’t find mention of it in Bob Hunt’s practicum or in Frank Mastini’s book but the kit instructions say to transfer the reference line form the plans to the bulkheads. Once inserted into the false keel they should line up with the reference line on the false keel. Looks like things line up pretty well. The second thing I did was follow Mastini’s book on checking the symmetry of the bulkheads. This involved tracing each bulkhead onto paper. Then cutting out the traced drawing and folding the cutout outside edge to outside edge and seeing if the centerline is correct. Since this kit has laser cut bulkheads I wasn’t expecting and problem and didn’t find any. The sanding of the char left lots of black residue all over the bulkheads and false keel, so I cleaned things off with a tack cloth in preparation for gluing the bulkheads. My research has shown a few ways to glue in the bulkheads and get them square to the false keel. I decided to go with the method described in Mastini’s book. This required gluing in only the amidships bulkhead, letting it dry overnight and then proceeding with the other bulkheads. I will post more photos of this process next.

It can be confusing. I had to read the stern post taper instructions several times and think about it for awhile before it finally sunk in to my thick skull. LOL

Hey W4LKR! I attempted to follow the taper instruction on sheet #2 as best I could: Here is a close up of the taper instructions: so the taper goes from 3/16th to 3/32nds, stopping short of the forward end of the stem. About halfway the stem tapers to 9/64th: And then finally to 3/32nds: Near the top (forward edge of the stem) the taper ends and the thickness goes back to the full 3/16th. This pic of the plan is looking straight at the top of the stem. I used a compass with 2 metal points (removed the lead point and replaced it with a metal one) to take measurements from the plans and transfer them to the false keel. You might want to take extra care when you get close to the top of the stem. I tapered it too far forward and had to use wood filler to reshape it. I found it a bit difficult to get the symmetry on the right and left sides shown in the last pic. First my right side taper went too far and when corrected my left side taper went too far. That's when the wood filler came in. My taper ended up a bit more rounded off that the plan shows. On the plan the bottom of the taper stays flat as it narrows. Hope this helps! Dave

Thanks Bob, it's great to have experienced people like yourself available for us newbies. I'm enjoying Bob Hunt practicum but I see the bulkheads in his course was made from basswood, much easier to fair than the plywood ones I have to deal with. I plan on heavily reinforcing the bulkheads to help when fairing the tough plywood. Have a great evening and thanks again. Dave

Ok. A bit of reading and viewing pictures answered my questions. I wasn't sure exactly when to fair the bottom edge of the bulkheads but now understand this is done after the bulkheads are glued in place. And of course the bottom edge of the bulkheads need to follow the edge of the beard line. DOH! I'll double check my steps, but it looks like bulkheads alignment and gluing will be next.

Work time: 1 hour Total time: 16.5 hours Tools used: none Material used: 150 grit paper which I glued to craft sticks. Got the char sanded off the bulkheads and dry fitted them. I found 150 grit paper worked well for this so I made up a few 150 grit sticks and got it done. Now the issues: About half of the bulkheads meet the beardline nicely: The other half are too long, although they are level at the deck with the false keel: So lets start with "A". I'm assuming I will need to shorten it, but do I also angle it to follow the curving beardline? (red line drawn on photo in photoshop, NOT on the actual ship) So its back to research and asking questions. Deborgens: I found Bob's profile and sent him a message. Thanks for the tip!

DBorgens, Would you have a link to Bob Hermanns build log or his username? Tried searching his name on the site but came up blank, probably because his username is completely different. And there doesn't seem to be a member lookup function. Dave

I call mine Xena the Destroyer..... Yes, I'm doing my research before actually doing each step. I check 14 build logs I've bookmarked on this site, read over the instructions that came with kit, read Frank Mastini's book, read Bob Hunts practicum and view Youtube videos by Gary Brinker. I'll be doing that this morning before sanding the char off all the bulkheads. That will give me a chance to "chew" on what I learned during the research and address anything I don't fully understand.

Just to sum up the work on the false keel: Work time: Around 10 hours Tools used: Xacto blades #11, #17, #18, #19 Mechanical pencil - .05 Jewelers round file Small metal square 6 inch metal ruler 12 inch metal ruler Compass with center wheel screw adjustment Clamps Ultra Fine Saw Blade from MicroMart (used to cut out bulkheads, not used on false keel) T-pins Supplies: 2 small pieces of 1/16th inch basswood Wood glue Emery boards Masking tape Rubbing alcohol Wood filler 400 grit sandpaper

Work time: 4:00 hours Total work time: 15.5 hours Tools used: Xacto blades #11, #17, #18, #19, Ultra Fine Saw Blade from MicroMart Material used: Elmer’s Wood Filler, emery boards, 400 grit sand paper I really didn’t like the way I shaped the stem. It was supposed to have this taper but mine sure didn’t. So on goes the wood filler and I’ll try again. I double checked the rabbet at the stern post and found it wasn’t as deep as needed, so I touched that up. I also decided to be daring and to deepen the rabbet all along the false keel. I know it was close and probably could have sanded down the hull planks after they were glued in, but I figured I should push myself a little and try to get it as close as possible by cutting. This is why I can’t have nice things with a cat in the house. Luckily a bit of wood filler will repair the damage from the hell cat. Looks like I had better keep my work room door closed when I’m not in there. I had to wood putty the extra piece of wood I added to the bottom of the keel, the bottom of the stern post and the seams where the 3 piece false keel joins as well. So got hat done and let it dry. Then reshaped the stem and sanded all other areas. I feel I now have the false keel where I want it. So it’s on to the bulkheads. These laser cut plywood pieces are a totally different animal than the basswood false keel. Trying to cut them loose with a Xacto blade just wasn’t working. So I turned to the “Ultra Fine Saw Blade” (purchased from MicroMart). This made the process much easier as the blade is thin enough to fit in the laser cut and cuts the plywood fairly easily. Cut from both sides and the bulkhead pieces fell right out. Tomorrow I will go about checking the symmetry of the bulkheads and fitting them to the keel.

Thanks, Fright! Took the weekend off; had to close down the yard for the winter on Saturday and Sunday was football. Back to it today. Dave

Makes me wonder if us tool_aholics have an edge in becoming the Irish cabinet maker? We are aware of our weakness and more wary because of it. Building with hand tools has some romantisisim to it. People often ask me why I bother to shave with a straight razor with all the honing, stropping and using lather from a brush and mug. Instead of using the latest 6 blade cartridge razor and foam from a can. Tough to answer, but there is something about using a well made tool with the knowledge of how to use it. But I'm getting off topic here. It's great to have all of you here to advise a newbie on tool selection.

Yep, places like MicroMark, Byrnes and Lee Valley are nirvana to this OCD afflicted, wanna be, model shipwright. Dave

Just received my first MicroMark catalog. Holy smokes!! This reminds me of when I first became a boat owner and later when I first became a RV owner. West Marine and Camping world sold more gadgets, do-dads, thing-a-ma-jigs and what-ja-ma-call-its than one could use in 3 lifetimes. As a dyed in the wool tool addict this type of paraphernalia is dangerous to be within a country mile of the house. This newbie will be seeking the advice of you more experienced builders about which contraptions are worth having before I dish out any of my hard earned moola. Dave

Work time: 4 hours Total work time: 11.5 Tools: #11 Xacto, dividers, emery boards, round file Supplies: glue, tape, pins Spent time yesterday and today tapering the stem and stern post and gluing in the stern post. I also glued in a thin piece of wood on the bottom of the false keel to even out the transition from the aft section to the amidships section. I found the stem to be the more difficult of the two as it’s a very long gradual taper. And getting it symmetrical on both sides can be a bit of an issue. I’m not overly pleased with the results but will take another look at it tomorrow. Sometimes it’s best to leave good enough alone, but that’s tough for me to do. The stern post is a bit weird as it tapers fore to aft and top to bottom. But for some strange reason I found this not too difficult, once I was able to wrap my head around the plan drawings. Also spent time flattening the taper from the beardline to the rabbet at the stern. I found that, after cutting the rabbet, the taper wasn’t very flat. It took a sharp dive about ¼ inch from the rabbet where I had made the first taper cut. Took a bit of time to get that area to a smooth, gradual taper. I’m learning that often it’s better to use an emery board, sand paper and a block or a small file than it is trying to shave the wood with a Xacto knife. It may take a bit longer but it sure saves on mistakes. And as soft as the basswood is, the sanding can go quite quickly. Dave

Thought I would pass along a few other I have received from members and another resource I found. "One word of advice. It is easier to remove more wood than it is to replace it. Good luck." "If you want to do a really good job, expect to replace the kit-provided blocks and deadeyes, the rigging line, and sailcloth with higher end after-market ones. (Syren Ship Models is your friend here. They won't break the bank.)" "For a wood model such as Bluenose, get a small bottle of yellow carpenter's glue. That small bottle will last for several kits. One of it's advantages is that it is dissolved with isopropyl alcohol. There are a lot of builders who swear by CA but I rarely use it. For those times that you need to bond dissimilar materials, two part epoxy is your best option" "PVA glue will be the main glue you ll use. Aliphatic has quick set and dries yellow, normal PVA has more opening time and dries more clear. Epoxy can be useful for laminating and gap filling or for gluing dissimilar material, is messy and temperamental and has somewhat of a learning curve. I use it a lot though, usually thickened with talk powder as it is brittle on its own. CA glue for specific tasks. My personal opinion, all PVA glues are created more or less equal, epoxy and CA most definitely are not. For scratch building, glue sticks (pratt etc) are useful for gluing paper patterns to wood." Another resource I found is Gary Brinker who has done a 40 part Youtube video on building the Bluenose. While Gary is not an experienced ship builder (Bluenose is his first ship build), he is an experienced builder of other type models. Cant say I agree with everything he does but he does have some good tips and tricks.

Thanks for the kind words and support, I need all I can get! I haven't yet started the bulkheads but just ran upstairs to check out the sheets. The plywood in my kit seems to be smooth and dry. I'm assuming your building a Model Shipways kit? My plan is to finish the false keel as much as possible before starting the bulkheads. I have the rabbet cut but only about 1/2 the required depth (need 1/16 and I'm at a bit more that 1/32). The advice I'm getting from another builder is that I could install the plank at this depth and sand off the excess as long as I don't have to sand the plank too thin. Right now I'm tapering the stem and finding there are times when I should be sanding instead of carefully planing with an Xacto blade. The false keel is basswood, very soft and easy to shape. Still have to do the stern post and even out the bottom of the false keel which is off a bit (see above posts) Let me know when you start your build log so I can follow along. As for reference material I'm using the same practicum, Frank Mastini's book, the build logs on this site and the following site by genericDave who is a member here as well. https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/category/bluenose-canadian-schooner/page/12/ Dave

I cut the rabbet and beardline taper on my Bluenose yesterday. When I lay in a small piece of planking to test the cut the angle is about right but I'm short on the depth by about 1/32 or so. My question is should I try to deepen the cut to make the plank flush with the false keel or could I just sand the the plank down after its glued? I'm a bit afraid of cutting through the false keel if I try to deepen the cut on both sides. I realize I'm still aways from planking but it would be almost impossible to deepen the cut after the bulkheads are installed. Advice for a newbie? Dave

Cut the rabbet Work Time: 3:50 hours Total work time: 7:50 hours Tools used: Xacto blade #11, #17, #18, #19. Metal ruler, masking tape Supplies: Rubbing alcohol, masking tape, piece of 3/16 inch basswood for practice. I finally got the rabbet cut, too many days of fretting about it and putting it off. My biggest fear was cutting the rabbet too deep. After all, the false keel is only 3/16 inch thick and each rabbet needs to be 1/16 inch deep. That doesn’t leave much room for error. So I placed a piece of tape across the tip of a Xacto #19 blade, leaving 1/16 of the blade exposed. As for the angle, I decided to wing it. I figured if I cut the rabbet at a steeper angle than what was necessary I had a better chance of not cutting through the false keel. And I could always open up the angle after tapering down from the beardline if needed. If your using a brand new blade out of the package you will need to clean as they come lightly oiled. Of course the tape wont stick to the blade with that iol coating. After taking about an hour to practice on the piece of 3/16 X 4 X 24 inch basswood I picked up at the local hobby shop, I took a deep breath and went at it.The first side took me 2:15 hours, the second side was much quicker at 1:10. I found out that it was easier for me to cut the rabbet and then push a Xacto #17 small chisel from about ¼ inch above the rabbet cut to the rabbet cut. I then completed the taper from the beardline to the rabbet cut with a wider Xacto #18 (when possible). In many places the distance from the beardling to the rabbet line is just too small for the wider chisel, then I used the smaller chisel. I also found out it was much easier for me to cut the taper going with the grain rather than against it. As for the rabbet line at the stern I used a wheel marking gauge to draw a line 1/16 inch from the edge of the keel on both sides of the keel. I then used a Xacto #11 to trim the keel at a sharp angle so it was flush with line I had drawn. I then tapered down from the beardline to the 1/16 on the back of the keel. In the photo below the right side taper has been finished In the photo below (badly out of focus) the left hand side has been rough cut to the 1/16th line. If I had to do it again I might do the cutting before gluing the false keel together. The smaller pieces might be easier to handle. But I have a good amount of space on my work desk so it wasn’t a big deal. I still have to glue a thin strip of wood to the bottom of the keel to even out the joint between the amidships and the stern piece. Hope to get that done tonight. I’ll have to think about faring the bow and stern post now or later in the build. Also when to attach the stern post. Dave