CPDDET

I continue to monitor your progress and really appreciate your sharing. As always, wonderful work. Dave

I finished some of the smaller parts for the aft end of the ship. Namely the boom crutch, quarter bits, small grate that goes on the starboard side of the wheel house and the "unidentified" object which goes on the port side of the wheel house. I decided to dress the "unidentified" object a bit by placing a brass band around the base. I haven't installed these because I still need to to deal with the boom sheet buffer and didnt want to black my access. The britannia metal part supplied with the kit looks awful. The plans show the actual buffer in detail. But one view shows the buffer mounted to the deck while the side view shows it on some sort of platform. Anyway, I'm still contemplating on just how to build this piece. I doubt that I can create it in all the detail shown in the drawing but I have to make something better than the britannia metal piece that came with the kit. This may take some time .........

Hold down table, about 12 x 12. Three t-tracks and mini hold down clamps.

Just wondered what you wanted pictures of since I mentioned the hold down table and magnetic fence. Didn't mean to imply your knowledge of Japanese pull saws was lacking. Always happy to share my novice techniques! Dave

Also use this saw for rip cuts. Have been able to cut 1/32 inch wide strips. Does take some practice as these are pull saws, vs American saws that cut on the push. The magnetic fence is a big help. https://www.suizan.net/products/suizan-japanese-saw-6-dozuki-dovetail

Wefalck: What did you want images of? The saw? The hold down table? The magnetic fence? Dave

Almost! The kerf is the same width as the blade, .012 inches. Actually made to cut dowles flush and very flexible. Makes very fine cut. I have 2 Japanese pull saws as I only use hand tools for my build. https://www.suizan.net/products/suizan-japanese-flush-cut-trim-saw-5-inch-hand-saw-for-hardwood-and-softwood

I'm using a Japanese saw and a magnetic fence I made for it. Using a machinist square to draw the angle. Clamp the piece under the magnetic fence on my hold down table (made this myself as well). The fence holds the metal saw blade tight to it and the Japanese saw has zero kerf.

My thoughts exactly. I'll be following along to see your progress.

The Smithsonian article has smaller pictures but may be of assistance in paint colors. Keep up the great job you're doing.

Not sure if this would be of any help with your figurehead but the Smithsonian recently published and article on recovered 19th century figureheads: https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/rescued-rot-19th-century-naval-figureheads-feature-new-exhibit-180974396/?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=socialmedia&fbclid=IwAR3Xwdz4XWr6EiFYfQAbAG6Rm6OlvDjYvA6suzChH6Dx3u4xaK76Cs-H0pg

Ingenious!

Thanks, Schooners. The idea of using brass belaying pins for hand holds seemed to come out of nowhere.

Seems I have a lot to learn about planes. I'm curious, what are the "legs" or standoffs bolted to the sides of the plane in the pictures?

Thanks Richard. I loved the challenge, even when my first 2 tries failed. Took me a bit to reach a doable method.

Thanks, Fright. It's not as perfect as I would have liked but I'm pleased with it.

You're welcome to it, but there may be easier ways. I'm still a beginner at this.

Thanks!

I'd love to know more about that plane you're using

This took a bit of time but I really wanted to build my own wheel for my model. After a few failed attempts the following worked pretty well. I started with 3 pieces of 1/32 inch basswood. Drew the outside diameter on the first piece with a compass and divided the circle into 6 parts. Cut the square into 6 pieces Reassembled the 6 pieces, spacing the 1/32 inch apart, and glued them to the second square. I thought I would have to shave off 1/64 inch from the edge of each piece to keep the correct diameter with the spacing but it seems the hand saw kerf took care of that. Using my pin vice I drilled a 1/16 inch hole through a small piece of 3/16 inch dowel for the center hub. I drilled a 3/16 hole in the center of the 6 pieces and inserted the hub. Then, using the 1/32 inch gaps as a guide, I drilled 1/32 inch holes through the hub with a pin vice. Using a compass circle cutter I cut the “wheel” from the square. Placed small pieces of 1/32 inch brass rod into the groove and into the center hub holes. Tacked these in place with CA. Using the compass circle cutter I cut another “wheel” from the third piece and glued this on top with wood glue. Clamped and let dry overnight. Cut down 6 brass belaying pins and glued then into the six, 1/32 inch square openings for handles. Did some final sanding, staining and mounted it to the wheel house.

Crazy nice work, Richard. You continue to amaze.

Are these custom made tools? Standard tools adapted to a new purpose? Specialty tools made for this application?

Ain't it great when you figure things out and get excellent results? Nice job! Dave

Making nice progress! I understand your tearing out the original deck. After planking the hull on my Bluenose I tore out about 25% of it and re- installed. Dave

So true, Richard. Not sure I can build a wooden ships wheel from scratch with hand tools but I'm looking forward to trying. Why do things the easy way when you learn so much more going the long route. Be safe and stay healthy! Dave