CPDDET
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Work time: 11 hours Total work time: 103.9 hours Time to plank the foredeck I wanted the first two planks to be exactly in line with the keel so I edge glued 2 planks on a piece of wax paper, tapered the forward edge to fit the bow and used TiteBond. To keep the planks in line with the keel I used snack bag clips and to keep downward pressure until the glue set I used the modified binder clamps. Following the practicum I installed 5 planks on either side of the first two and then placed the shorter wider board on each side (don’t know the proper name for these boards). Seeing that the next two planks on each side would butt up against these wider boards without any support below them, I glued a small scrap of planking to the underside to support the two deck planks. After adding one additional plank to each side it was time to lay the nibbing plank (strake?) and continue with the planking. I was a bit apprehensive about this stage of the deck planking but I think I did OK for a first timer. Still need to sand and give the deck a coat of wipe on poly, but I won’t do that until I complete the foredeck. I used the "graphite pencil led" method to darken the seams between the planks. Only thing I didnt like was the CA glue caused the graphite to spread a bit where I edge glued. But it is what it is and hopefully the sanding will minimize it. So, I have the starboard side finished (getting that last plank in took forever. LOL). Speaking of sanding the deck. Any tips on some type of tool that will get into tight corners? I was looking at this one but see there aren’t any reviews on it. https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Sander We will be dragging the RV down to Florida for the rest of the winter so I won’t resume work on the boat until April. It’s much too fragile to go bouncing down the highway. But I’ll be monitoring the site and keeping up with the other builds I’m following. Dave
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Not sure I fully understand. But I'll sit back and watch.
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Decent progress is an understatement. Looks great!
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Looking very nice!
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You are just a working machine! Keep up the great work.
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I know one of the Titebond formulas dries clear. Is it Titebond ll ?
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Work time: 4.5 hours Total work time: 92.9 No longer listing tools and materials as by this time it's getting pretty redundant. LOL In an effort to get a decent paint job where the waterways / false frames /bulwarks meet, I decided to deviate from Hunt’s practicum. According to the practicum on the foredeck: Install waterways inbound of the bulkhead extensions and then plank the hull Plank foredeck Install waterway boards between the bulkhead extensions Install 2 bulwark planks Chop out the bulkhead extension and install false frames My plan: Chop out bulkhead extensions Lay one continuous waterway board Mark and mask places for false frames Paint waterway board Paint 2 other waterway planks and install those Plank deck Paint false frames Install false frames Paint inboard side of bulwark planks Install bulwark planks So far I have removed the inboard waterway plank Removed the bulkhead extensions Made a “measuring tool” to properly space the false frames Installed the 1 piece waterway board and measured / masked for false frames Painted waterway board and removed masking Painted the two waterways planks and installed those. The foredeck waterway plank I had installed per the practicum prior to planking the hull (the one I removed) was 3/32 X 1/8. It took the place of the 2 smaller, 3/32 X 3/32, waterway planks shown on the kit plans. This is another way Hunt’s practicum deviates from the plans, I suppose in an attempt to simplify the build. Since I had to remove the larger 3/32 X 1/8 waterway plank, I went with the kit plans and replaced it with the 2 smaller 3/32 X 3/32 waterway planks. I’m thinking a bit ahead and wondering which type of glue to use for the false frames when I get to them. The bulwarks will be glued to these so I want get them as sturdy as possible. I plan on soaking the bulwarks and edge gluing them to the top hull plank to take some stress off the false frames, but still……
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I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the advice.
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Something for me to keep in mind. You do nice work!
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Looks very nice and I see you're planning ahead, something I need to get better at.
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You're making great progress. I'm enjoying, and learning.
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Great, thanks. I have several of those in the tool drawer. Dave
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Just so I'm not misleading you. I used a clear satin wipe on poly. No stain in it but it did change the color of the planks. Thanks for the compliment!
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Oh. I do have a question. I had the ship keel side up while planking and got sloppy with the CA glue. Now I noticed that I have a build up of CA on some of the bulkheads extensions where the notch was cut. So the waterways boards between the bulkheads aren't going to sit flush. Any tips or tricks on dealing with this dried CA? It seems to be extremely hard. Dave
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Thank you both! As for the waterways I think it might be best to follow the practicum. If I go a different route now my fear is it will lead to further complications down the road. And my skill level at this point isn't up to that. Others have advised that if one is following the practicum they should follow only that. My only change so far was to install the great beam and deck beam which Bob Hunt doesn't include I know by following Hunts practicum I won't end up with an exact replica but that's something to shoot for in a future build, when I have more experience. Thanks for the tip on the waterways painting. I thought Hunts looked quite sloppy and I wanted a cleaner line. Hope you and yours have a wonderful Christmas. Surprisingly we don't have any snow on the ground here but may get an inch or so Christmas morning. Dave
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During the sanding process one of my fat fingers managed to snap the 1st waterway plank. Since the next step in Bob Hunt’s practicum is installing the 2nd waterway I’ll need to repair / replace the broken one. After reading Nirvana’s build log on the waterways I’m a bit confused / conflicted. So today I’m going to check the practicum, ship plans and kit instruction to get a clearer idea of this process before proceeding. I also noticed in the photos that come with the practicum that the waterways will eventually be painted gray. I’m wondering if it would be better to paint the topsides and edges of the waterway boards before installing them so I get a nice clean paint line where they meet the deck planks. As always, any advice is welcome. Dave
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Work time: 30 hours Total work time: 88.4 hours Tools used: Xacto knives, razor saw, tack cloths Material used: CA debonder, CA glue, various grades of sandpaper, Elmer's wood filler, wipe-on poly The sanding went easier than I thought, once I figured things out. Good thing I did most of it in the garage as there was a ton of dust. I started off being much too careful with too light a grit. About a quarter through I switched to a 60 grit to knock off the high points and then went to 100 and then to 150. The job went much quicker with this method. After I got the ship back up in the workroom I noticed some areas that needed further attention with wood filler. These were very thin coats and dried quickly. I finished the whole hull with 320 grit paper for a nice smooth surface. I wiped the hull down with a tack cloth and applied a thin coat of wipe on poly. Then, after drying for a few hours, a very light sanding with 400 grit. As for the timing, I figure I have about 30 hours in the planking, filling, sanding process. This takes into consideration the time it took to tear out 16 planks and re-do them. I apologize for calling the garboard plank "lardboard plank" in my previous posts. One would think I would know the difference after sailing for many years; have no idea where my mind was. 😜 One last point; while Bob Hunts practicum states there is no need to soak the hull planks on this Bluenose model, I did find it necessary, at least for me, to soak a few of them. Hopefully I will begin the deck planking after the Christmas holiday. Wishing all a Merry Christmas!! Dave
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Good idea. I think I'll do mine on the work bench in the garage.
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Just a quick update. The holidays have been keeping me busy but I'm making progress. Didn't post my work time as I have been catching an hour or two here and there since the last post. I'll post an estimate when the hull is complete and paint ready. Here is the hull fully planked and sanded: I then applied a layer of Elmer's wood filler. May have overdone this but some extra time sanding will take care of that. Tomorrow I will begin the final sanding and then apply a wipe-on poly. Will post pics when I reach that point. Dave
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Nirvana, I think I made 2 mistakes. 1. I had the larboard plank flat against the keel instead of slightly angled away from it. 2. I wasn't tapering the planks. These 2 combined to cause the problems. The kit plans show the larboard about 1/2 inch high where it meets the stern post. At this height it would easily reach from the rabbet to the bottom of at least 3 bulkheads. But I'm following Bob Hunts practicum and he shows using a standard 1/8 inch high plank for the larboard. Please explain the white glue longitudinal setting. I'm still learning and would like to understand more.
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It took what seemed like forever to tear out 16 planks, but it’s done and I’ve got a much better start now. The rabbet took a bit of a beating getting out the garboard plank but I cleaned it up the best I could. Wood filler and sanding will take care of the rest. As I stated in my last post the proper placement of the larboard plank is difficult due to the width of the plank and the distance from the rabbet to the bottom of the bulkheads. In order to overcome this I decided to carefully dry fit the larboard plank and the plank above it. Then, placing the planks on wax paper, edge glue the 2 planks together. This way the wider width of the 2 planks reach 3 bulkheads and allowed me to get the correct angle of the larboard plank. Have 4 planks in now and they look very good, no more “stair stepping” I also picked up some Z-Ends for my Zap glue. What a difference that makes! I hardly get any glue on my fingers now and have much more control of how much and where I place the glue. The planking continues at a slow pace because most every plank will require some tapering, as well as some stealers. Feels like each plank is a project onto itself. I’ll update the “build time” once I finish the planking. It will be a bit longer than it would have been because of my “do over”.
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