robert952

I keep forgetting to mention this. Olha Batchvarov is posting a complete video build log on this model. Recent post is number 32 from a day ago. I 'scanned' (as in fast forwarded through) a couple of them. Look great. Not sure what the colaboration efforts were but Model Expo ran a deal (aren't they always?) on the model and promoting her doing the video log. Most of the videos are 2 hours (one is over 3). Easy to search for since not a lot of YouTubers post 'Muscongus Bay build' for the subject. (A lot of videos to look through if you go the her YouTube channel.) Definitely in my notes to review more when I dig down into my stash and work on this model.

Looks great hanging on the wall! Nice job. Well done.

Good start. Looking forward to watching your progress.

Sure. Give me a few days. On images I'll clean them up, probably 2 shots per page. For text pages I'll just scan them. The section is called "Muscongus Bay or Friendship Sloops." I'll post to WeTransfer so they come across full size. PM me email addy.

I have Chapelle's book. I used this book for my current project of the peapod. As stated, the book is a wealth of information on smaller craft. The pics are small as you suspect. The image @Dee_Dee posted above is 9" X 6" as a full page image in the book. Here's how I used the drawings in the book. I took pictures of the pages and drawings using my cell phone (Google Pixel 3a XL. Any camera will do, obviously.) I made sure I lit the image up and held the page flat as possible. I find a photo works better than scanning the page. It gives more options to tweak the results at higher resolutions over a scanner. Here's details from a shot of the same image in Chapelle's book I took today. I tweaked it using a photo editor: 'faked' the white balance; played with brightness and contrast. I had to straighten it along a horizontal line. (I can hold hold the camera steady or I can do straight...can't do both apparently). It's a bit of trial and error to get the results you want. The photo editor I use is PaintShop Pro. You can use GIMP (free downloadable software) and, of course, Photoshop. While the numbers are a bit smudged, they are readable for the most part or you can at least take a good SWAG at the numbers. With the scale on the image you have a decent chance at measuring details. And it is not any worse than some drawings I have seen. BTW, this a reduction of 50% of my original image. I wanted to show a larger area of the page and not have the website reduce the image much. Here's details of the offset table to show the detail at full size of the image (assuming only a small amount of reduction by the website. This was at the edge of the photographed area and not as evenly lit but you can see the numbers are readable. (And easier than using a magnifying glass.) Just an option on using a resource with decent line plans.

Congrats on completing a nice looking model. And a big thank you for taking the time to put details in your build log. I know I pick up a tidbit or two from reading them. I know it takes quite a bit of extra work to put these logs together. Your work on the log and allowing us to share your adventure are greatly appreciated.

Looking forward to the magazine. Good luck on this adventure.

From various posts and articles, my take is it helps to stiffen and shape the sales, particularly if you want them unfurled and show the sail full of wind. I also recall reading that you can mix color in with the PVA to put a tint onto the cloth since some material is too white.

Me too. I haven't worked much on my little project. Got to buckle down and get working on it.

I was looking through my 'following' list and wondered how the build was going. I knew it had been a while since your post. I didn't realize how long. Great progess and looks fantastic. Hope to see more on this build.

Great looking model. Congrats on completion.

Thanks for sharing this. Interesting. I had lost track (well, quit following) the rebuilt after the fire. Glad the Cutty Sark is looking good.

I love seeing the use of LEGO blocks (or similar). Their precision seems a big advantage. I wonder if I can talk my grandson out of a few of his LEGOs.

Joining in on this build. I look forward to seeing picks (even uneventful ones)

The decision to weathering a model becomes one of the many facets each modeler looks at when deciding on a build and how to approach it. Example, as you appear to have done, I've read posts on the subject of weathering copper. My personal taste when looking at a model with bright copper hull plating it's too shiny. I haven't done a model with coppering, but I feel I would tone down the copper with some form of weathering. Similar with rigging and sails and part of the look of sails. I think some of that 'weathering' comes from a matter of making sails that look to scale and possibly effect how much details the modeler wants in the sails. Pristine sails don't stay pristine for long. So a little weathering would still be an accurate "as built" representation. Weathering does provide one thing a lot of modelers want to do: differentiate thier build by others of the same ship. Again, a aspect of the hobby that varies from one modeler to the next. Additionally, as you point out, weathering models (wood or plastic) requires a set of skills that have to be developed and honed. Some builders want to learn new skills and may look at weathering. Bottom line: What does the modeler want to accomplish? What challenges is the modeler willing to tackle? What interests in a given ship or subject does the modeler have? I think the answer to these questions determines how much (or little) weathering is done. As for your current build, take the weathering to whatever level you want. There is not a right or wrong answer. And, I can't say I have ever found adefined 'tradition' that directs how to build. The decision on your current build is up to you. I this all gives you answers some of your questions.