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STEP AWAY FROM THE BUILD ---- with your hands in the air.
 
Normally, at times when you feel like this, it's necessary to take a break.  But you just had a break.  The problem is you're probably not ready to settle back into the building routine. 
 
My guess is that you have a million things on your mind and your normal 'escape' to the shop isn't working.  It's acting like the one millionth and ONE thing.  Give it a break for now and get those other things reduced to routine rather than crisis status.  You will then look forward to returning to her.
 
I've been in the same place.......I'm sure many of us have. 
 
Take a deep breath, relax and then whip that other 'stuff' into submission.  Your gal, and your friends here on MSW will be patient.

Hey all, thank you for the kind words!
Russ, yea I dont want to go too far with it. I really like the aged look on the rudder pintles. Like I mentioned I was Captain grumpy when I first saw it happening, but stepped back and took a breath and looked again, it works well with the "patina" from the rubbed oil on the hull. I would like to know what caused it though; one, to avoid it in the future and two to duplicate it when I want too.  I may have left the gudgeons in a couple of minutes longer than the pintles. I didnt write down the time or the temperature when I did either. Just soaked till it looked "right."
 
Rich I will probably give ole Edison a run for his money when it comes time to do the rigging.
 
Robbyn, its my furniture and cabinet making background, I cant help it it just gnaws at me. If I can get the rudder closer in tone and the steel closer in appearance I will be satisfied. Had the gudgeons worn more than the pintles I would have been fine with it, I could have said the rudder had been replaced at some point. 
 
Brian, no shame. Wood finishing is the one thing in this hobby that I have a fair amount of experience with.
 
I have a couple of thoughts for the gudgeons that I will try tonight, then a bit of airbrushing if that doesnt work. But that requires a trip to the hobby store which may have to wait till the weekend or longer, we are entering our busy season at work and will be swamped till the end of November. Robbyn, if your life isnt crazy enough anymore you and your new husband are welcome to come out and show us what real overacheivers can do!!!!   
 
Sam

Brian, try it you never know what you may not accomplish.....
 
Well, shipped my rudder last night after mounting the last of the "bolts" Overall it looked ok.
Then I oiled the rudder..... some of the blackening rubbed off. I was Captain Grump-o-licious for a minute till I stopped and really looked at it. The way the blackening rubbed of gave a very aged appearance that I started to really like. Then I excitedly oiled the hinges on the hull....and... different results. 
 
Not sure what I am going to do now. No matter how much I have rubbed at them, the blackening wont rub off. I think I will either try to strip the linseed oil and duplicate the effect with an airbrush or just go for an oil rubbed bronze/back with the airbrush. Maybe just use a gun blue touch up pen. Got some 'sperimenting to do it looks like.
 
I think I may need to add a yellow/amber glaze to the rudder to bring it closer in color to the keel and stern. Probably should have done that before I mounted the pintles. 
 

 
 

Brian, try it you never know what you may not accomplish.....
 
Well, shipped my rudder last night after mounting the last of the "bolts" Overall it looked ok.
Then I oiled the rudder..... some of the blackening rubbed off. I was Captain Grump-o-licious for a minute till I stopped and really looked at it. The way the blackening rubbed of gave a very aged appearance that I started to really like. Then I excitedly oiled the hinges on the hull....and... different results. 
 
Not sure what I am going to do now. No matter how much I have rubbed at them, the blackening wont rub off. I think I will either try to strip the linseed oil and duplicate the effect with an airbrush or just go for an oil rubbed bronze/back with the airbrush. Maybe just use a gun blue touch up pen. Got some 'sperimenting to do it looks like.
 
I think I may need to add a yellow/amber glaze to the rudder to bring it closer in color to the keel and stern. Probably should have done that before I mounted the pintles. 
 

 
 

Progress at last!!!
I took everyone's advice and took a work/stress break today. I am still behind as far as school is concerned, but tomorrow is another day   Besides, every once in awhile you just gotta say what the heck and do something for yourself!
So all the lower shrouds and ratlines are complete...not perfect, but at this point good enough for me!
Now I am back to where I was before I ripped everything out lol. Need to spend some time reading the instructions again and figure out what I need for the upper rigging, then I can say I have made some real progress!

Hi,
 
Mick, the chains and plates supplied by Caldercraft are good in that they match the same style as described in the AOTS book as well as the Endeavour replica.  The ones I made were to replace the supplied ones but still match the style of the originals.  Not sure how the OcCre ones look like but perhaps as Alistair says might be easier to buy suitable ones.
 
Okay a bit of progress on the channels and deadeye chains.  The instructions/plans say to glue a strip of 1.5mm square walnut stock on the edge of the channels.  A couple of problems with this in that the plywood channels are actually 2mm thick?! Also the supplied 1.5mm walnut strip stock is pretty poor being splintery as well as…well not very square.  Its more diamond shaped and pretty rough.  So did it slightly different if not a bit longer to do.
 
To hold the deadeyes in place in the channel notches I dabbed a tiny amount of CA glue, using a needle, on to the strop and placed them in the notches.  I only used enough glue to hold them in place temporarily until the channel edge strip is in place trapping the strop in the channel.  Once completed a small tweek broke the glue bound and left the deadeyes free with in the notch as planned.

 
 
Instead of using the 1.5mm stock as instructed I decided to use some 1.5mm x 5mm lime planking left over from the first layer of hull planking for a number of reasons.  Firstly it is much more flexible being able to bend more easily against the edge of the channel and much more easily to work with.  I ripped the 5mm width down to 2.5mm so that the edges were proud slightly of the channel as well accommodating the slight bow of the main and fore channels.

 
 
Once the channel edge strips were glued on using CA glue I used a single edge razor blade to pare the strip edges down flush with the channel surfaces.  Because the deadeyes are free floating in the notches I could lift them up to clear the blade.

 
 
Edge strips in place, parred down and painted to match the channels.  Again I could lift the deadeyes up to paint the topside and pull the chains up to paint the undersides.

 
 
Next step now is to place a dowel in the mast holes and run some thread (to simulate the shrouds) from the height of the mast tops down past the deadeyes to get the correct angle of the chain and preventer links before fixing to the hull with nails. 
 
With the deadeyes being free I can pull them down on to the channels before securing with nails through the preventer links so that the deadeyes won’t pull up when the lanyards and shrouds put tension on them.  Well that’s the plan.
 
Cheers
Slog

Robbyn, not sure what happened, I was cruising along building a kit out of the box and some how I fell down the rabbit hole. Actually I think somebody pushed me...(looks at Russ)
Send your list but I warn you, I am not as qualified for the Overachiever Award as you. Also, Mom is still waiting for her fireplace mantel I started in high school wood shop. Nope! No procrastination in MY world!
Sam

Aldo,
Just took a stroll through your build, REALLY nice work! Now I guess I have to wander over to your Triton build. sigh.....
Sam

Thanks Russ,
They mate up pretty good, there is still that little planking woops from a couple of pages ago. I'll go with the sliver of wood under the gudgeons and be done with it. 
Right now I have the pintles cleaned up and drilled out for bolts, hopefully by Sat I can have the gudgeons finished and everything blackened. The rudder installation may have to wait till next week - work is picking up again and is likely to be busy till November. 
Sam

Aldo,
Just dropped in for a visit, thought I would be able to take a short stroll through your build. Now I see I am going to have to pull up a chair and hang out here for a while. Very nice wrk so far.
I have nicknamed the little model builders voice we all hear "The Gremlin", lately he has been whispering in my ear to try a scratch build one day. Right at the moment he is jumping up and down on my shoulder pointing at your build going "See! See! You too!" Thanks Aldo...... 
Sam

Mark,
Looks really good. 
I think that "weirdness" you are seeing in your picture is distortion in your camera lens.
Sam

Rich, Nice clean work.
The wife left you home with Beer, and...BACON!? I am on  my way.
Sam

Small update. I spent Saturday whittling on the rudder and its coming along nicely. It still needs some adjustment, actually I need to adjust the hole the rudder head goes through, I am hitting the front edge. That will allow the gap at the stern to close up. I also need to trim a bit more off the lower corner and close that gap up. I am thinking that little edge will need to be chamfered like the leading edge of the rudder itself or else it wont turn.
I blackened the hinges but didnt get them cleaned properly I think, there are some places where the brass is still showing.
 

Old rudder.
I -The Gremlin- didnt care for the gap at the bottom edge or how the gap at the rudder head was corking working out.
 
 

New Rudder
I changed the lines slightly to match what I was seeing in a couple of books and filled in the gaps better. Still needs some adjustment. Minor changes, but the Gremlin is quiet.... for now....
 
Sam
 
 

Sigh..... The Gremlin won! He tricked me into going into the store the other day. "We will just go in for a minute and look around" He tells me. "See if they have the .014" brass rod you want.  Look Sam Look! Walnut! Almost the right thickness too!" So now I am rebuilding my rudder.
 
I am using the old rudder as a template and "Fully Framed II" for the joinery. Rather than making the rudder head out of the same piece s as the rudder itself I am taking a bit of license and making the head separately. The length of walnut I came home with had some grain change in it and I wasnt sure I could keep it from breaking as I carved on it.
 

 
A bit thick still
 

 
Almost there, the paper template is on the other side.
 
Sam
 

I see you have a few kits stacking up under your workbench and I love that Mahogany flooring!
 The quarterbadge redo looks very good!
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Brian,
Thanks for stopping by, I never considered that. I saw another builder, Auger, redo his and thought, "Why not?" Then my nit picky nature kicked in and it had to be "perfect" whatever THAT is. Anyway I am mostly happy with the door, the window frames could be a bit more consistent. I set the door in place a few minutes ago and took an "installed" picture below. Other than my cabin being crooked I may leave it, the window frame is just set in place so I still have the option to push my sanity (and my eye sight) a bit more and re-do it.
May need hinges and a door knob now too. Not sure what the hinges should look like, I havent found anything in any of my books - all 4 of them.....
 
Ok here are the pics I couldnt post earlier this morning.
 

The window frame.
 

"Installed" in the door
 

Door progression to date
 
(edited for typos)
 
[
Set in place, Not too bad except the cabin site crooked. Gonna have to rip that off tonight.....  
 
Thats all for now,
Sam

Thanks Robyn. 
More options to think about, nice, looks like a trip to Jo-anns fabric this week. More experimenting.
 
got my gun port hinges on. And, well, they look kind of sloppy. They are ok from a distance but......  I got sloppy with the epoxy. Even the tiniest bit seemed to oooz everywhere. Literally the tiniest bit on the end of the bolts was too much. I made the bolts with .019 wire heated and rounded over, thought they looked pretty good off the ship. Set them through the holes in the hunges and then put a tin dab of epoxy on and t=set them into place, still oozed out. &$^$^&$*       Not sure I will get them out, they are embedded almost a quarter of an inch in. Gonna try to rub some wax over them and see if that doesnt help blend everything in.
 

 

 
grumpy now....
Fingers crossed!
Sam

Rich, Sorry to hear about your laptop, thats no fun. I will keep an eye out for you.
Edwin, your welcome, but I cant take credit for it, I found it on MSW 1.0 BGC -"Before the Great Crash." Cant remember where I saw that here first.
 
Progress has been slow this week. Been making rings for my gun ports. I started out with 0.019 wire and that was just way to big. picked up some .012 wire, that was better visually, but working with it has been a bit of a challenge. Even with my little pencil torch at its lowest setting I have to keep the flame almost 1.5" away or things get hot so quickly I have melted the wire more than a couple of times. I think I averaged 4 failures to every success. I may need to look into a new torch, but my build budget for the year is getting low, have to see.
 
Cutting off a small enough piece of solder is a challenge also, regardless I have 4 sets of rings I am more or less happy with. Today i hape to blacken them as well as re-blackening my hinges and maybe even get them installed Then I have to see about making the little "leather" thingies that the rope passes through. Haven't figured that out yet, maybe try taking my smallest brass tube, .031x.006 wall and try to file it into shape.
 
I have also been noodling on how to make some hinges for my door. Even my thinest brass sheet, .005" looks thick laid on the face of the door. Its possible that hinges just are not in the future for this build, again we will see.
 

Need to do some more shaping and re-blacken. the left hand hinge came out visibly larger than the others so I made another.
 

Managed to get 4 semi-decent rings soldered up
 

Even this little torch wants to melt the microscopic wire if I am not careful.
 
Thats it for now, as always comment and criticisms always welcome
 
Sam 

Sigh..... The Gremlin won! He tricked me into going into the store the other day. "We will just go in for a minute and look around" He tells me. "See if they have the .014" brass rod you want.  Look Sam Look! Walnut! Almost the right thickness too!" So now I am rebuilding my rudder.
 
I am using the old rudder as a template and "Fully Framed II" for the joinery. Rather than making the rudder head out of the same piece s as the rudder itself I am taking a bit of license and making the head separately. The length of walnut I came home with had some grain change in it and I wasnt sure I could keep it from breaking as I carved on it.
 

 
A bit thick still
 

 
Almost there, the paper template is on the other side.
 
Sam
 

Thanks everybody.
No progress to show at the moment, just drilled holes and resoldered a couple of pins that were off center. there is a little gremlin on my shoulder whispering in my ear to rebuild the rudder. there are a couple of spots where the gap is inconsistent with the stern. They are minor but my eye keeps being drawn to them, re building will fix that. rebuilding means buying more lumber.... decisions, decisions!   Everyday on my way home from work I drive buy a model train shop that has walnut, it wont match the Mansonia but should be close, we will see.....
Sam

Thanks guys... ok... the short-timer's calendar is running.  Day's like the last two make me realize that I'm getting too old for this work stuff.  We have heavy forest fires going on down here in Southern Oregon.  About 40,000 acres burned since the 26th of July and valley that Medford is in is filling with smoke.  Which causes problems on the air conditioning at work.  Which, even though I'm in IT, I have to monitor the switch rooms and temperatures, etc.  Long story short, one  of the units had some..er... issues.  Filled one switch room and my "lab" with heavy smoke.   Which has created other problems.  Hopefully, everything has been fixed and I can go back to being a run of the mill cubicle convict tomorrow. 
 
Hmm... I'm babbling aren't I, when I could be trimming gunports. 

Here's the guns mostly rigged.  I still have to trim the lines, but everything else is in place.  I think I'm going to leave the inhaul tackle off, since that'll make the deck look really cluttered.
 

 

 

Quick post, nothing new to show on the build, but received a PM asking about the clothes pin clamps used in post 71, "Laundry Pegs" as I now know they are called by our friends on the other side of the pond.
 
They are nothing more than your everyday clothes pin reversed and turned inside out. This was something I saw on the Old MSW in the tips or tool section I cant remember. I use two versions but I dont recall if both were found on the old site or if I "improved" on the original. For the clamps used in post 71 I needed more room to maneuver so I used a sharp chisel and made needle nosed clamps out of them. I like the wooded pegs for this reason, they are very easy to modify.
 
 

 

 
Hope this answers the question and maybe helps somebody in the future as well.
Sam

Thanks everybody. I too love the "useless" trivia that comes up here and elsewhere. I hadnt heard of the HL hinge before, should have installed some of those when I was with my ex.......
Religion comes up in a lot of period construction, a very common common door style, at least herre in the States is something called "Bible and Cross" I learned it as "Book and Cross"
It looks like sometime this week I will have to see if I can file a couple of brass strips into the right shape and make a couple of hinges.
Sam

Thanks Robbyn, I am going to limit myself to just one pat though, dont want to get a swollen head.
Sam