iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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The reasons are complicated but it boils down to 'I have to move the stem forward by this much': For those complicated reasons mentioned above, I thought (incorrectly) that it should touch the deck as in the pic in post #22. (Note: balsa has already been added to fill out to the end of the deck compared to the pic in post #22.)
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That was and still is the plan, the stem will just be further forward than I had pictured in my mind but where it is supposed to go.
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Ok, I made a boo-boo. When making my balsa bow filler I assumed that the planking finished inside the stem (which it does) but I forgot, didn't understand that the stem is intended to be fitted after the planking is finished. As a result I made the filler to accommodate the planking allowing it to fit inside where I thought the stem should be but the stem is actually going to be about 2.5 mm further forward. (don't worry, the picture will help). This is with the stem in the position I thought it should be: What I now have to do is fill this gap, later the stem will be fitted the same distance further forwards.
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Looking it seems 'just below the gun ports' might be the standard. Ultimately a painting is just a data point, now if you could come up with a photograph... 😁
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More worms. These are two captured French cutters (late 1700s) Two other drawings I have show just above and just below the deck. So far only American drawings show near the top of the bulwarks. But..........
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Ok, deck planked. That took longer than I expected. It showed up some asymmetry forward: And some shots of the new bow fillers:
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So does this one, well that's going to change.
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Starboard side aft of the aft stanchion it bends up, there is also a kink aft of the next stanchion forward, I really doubt it's rope.
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Thanks Keith. I have balsa blocks in now, roughly shaped but I need to think in 'double planked' which is new to me. The general idea with it seems to be 'make it boat shaped' instead of the shape of a specific 'boat' (understandable as a model of a replica of a generic French cutter I suppose). A 12 year old would just slap it together and be happy, maybe I'm just too pedantic. Anyway, I think I'm going to have to fit a strake then fair for the next one, then rinse and repeat until the shape finds itself. I may have to fit the keel and step about 5 steps early. We'll see.
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From the kinks in it and the guy sitting on it my guess would be galvanised steel cable. The colour was probably dull grey with rust flecks. You could look at braided fishing line (probably with CA or epoxy wiped into it) or multi strand stainless fishing leader.
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Relax, no you just have to make her pretty. It's a smaller gap than mine (see the last two pics in my post above). I called mine 'splinter planks'. What's that? When you stop learning, you're dead.
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You get to claim credit for some of the inspiration. I'm not.
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The 'sonar dome' is going away! There is a drawing that shows it in profile. I took a tracing, did some measurements, drew it in CAD, cut it out from an off cut of the original ply and glued it on. Looks almost original. I still need to add balsa fillers but I'm on the way. Deck planking is a little over half done.
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If you download my cutter plans (see the build log) they're on page 1.
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If it works. It's certainly not a first for this forum. For example allanyed built a 1:64 Bounty launch. Mine can carry my Renard and this cutter would make it look like an aircraft carrier.
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Yes, she does. Hopefully this is the start of a 1:48 9 foot cutter. (or 8'8" in 1:50) So far everything is in 1mm plywood. I'll probably fill it with balsa, fair it, cut grooves for 3 'frames', then plank it.
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Ok, 'that little problem' has been fixed. As I said, I had the false deck fitted with 'many rubber bands'. The top of the aft mould (the problem one) needs to be bevelled for the false deck (one of the many things not mentioned in the 'instructions'). Since I drew and made a number of angle 'gauges' for setting my bench sander I used them for checking the angle needed. Not quite 124°, probably 122° but I don't have one of those so it's either make another or fudge it. So I fudged it and tested it on a piece of scrap. It worked fine. Problem fixed. Next problem, this kit comes with a bow filler block made of some composite material (something like dough with a lot of sawdust the consistency of a rubber eraser). Again no instructions, and no build logs that I can find that show this step. Apparently the first layer of planking finishes at this filler block then the joint is filled and sanded into submission. I'm not crazy about that idea so I'll have to think about it. Meanwhile I think I'm stuck with a side project, making a teeny tiny boat to replace the metal one.
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Well, I probably shouldn't have but.... As I said in the title, this is an earlier version not the current laser cut one. It looks to be a fairly easy build but one perhaps difficult to build well. We'll see how I go. First off I checked the moulds/bulkheads, production errors do happen and it's best to know if there's a problem. I would normally check them against the drawing but there aren't any so I placed each one on a piece of paper, traced around them then flipped them over and checked. Two were a tiny it out but fine to use so long as I knew about it. Fairing will fix them. I fitted the moulds to the false keel making sure they were square to the keel and that the tops were square to each other (there's a bit of slop in the slots). When I got to the mould on the stern I found the false keel wasn't cut square and of course there wasn't room for my squaring blocks, so I decided to stop before I made a mistake. I did however dry fit the false deck (and found out I can glue the mould on the stern to it, yay win) and wrap it in many rubber bands so it will take the deck curvature overnight. Oh, that small cast metal boat in pic 2 feels like it weighs more than my 16' Cutter (see sig.).
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Sounds good. On 8/14/2023 at 6:00 AM, theoracle09 said: Additionally, I'm not convinced the hatch pictured in both images is over the ritz. It looks more to me the bridge was enclosed to the bulwarks, so the quarterdeck was completely enclosed. The hatch pictured would then lead to the skylight on the quarterdeck between the aft bulkhead and the aft wall of the ritz. Here's my interpretation of the above two pics: I've now come to pretty much the same conclusion although I think it was further forward (between the deckhouse and the beam). When they decked over the gap they would have fitted a hatch to access the hold with the crane, later they built a companionway on the hatch (or so I think). And it's way past time that I said - Nice work!
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The problem is the 'ritz' seems to be below the 'ritz'. Perhaps we need to think of the wardroom / officers mess / dining saloon as the penthouse
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More worms 'tween decks would imply to me 'on the lower deck' (between the main and lower decks), and then 'the wardroom' would be the officers mess on the main deck (under the bridge), heretofore the 'ritz'. So perhaps something like this (I know it's not going to be correct): With the wardroom / officers mess / dining saloon on the main deck untouched. Oops Wild, Marston, Crean, and Worsley established themselves in cubicles in the wardroom
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Printable scale rulers
iMustBeCrazy replied to FlyingFish's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
And some printers are inconsistent, if you want accuracy use calipers and calculated conversions. These rulers are useful for a quick check down to about 0.5mm (actual size) (about 5/8" at 1:32). Still, that's better than most people can cut by hand. -
Printable scale rulers
iMustBeCrazy replied to FlyingFish's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
No worries Andy, you're welcome. -
Printable scale rulers
iMustBeCrazy replied to FlyingFish's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've added 1:32 to my scale rulers HERE. Bob's right, you may have to adjust your print scale using 'Custom' or the like.
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