iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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Again, I think there were more exceptions than rules: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-535332
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Which is a copy of HIL210 from the RMG. This is a drawing by a shipbuilder not the Admiralty which might explain some differences.
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I have been trying to work out what size boat this model depicts, could you do one measurement for me? Thanks,
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Only friendly fire. I concur with both thoughts.
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I would think so, but I also think it's a boat built for a specific task rather than modifications. It's too nice a drawing. The bow roller looks like a normal anchor handling roller, the stern roller 'feels' like it serves the same purpose but the drawing provides no details. It's possible not impossible that these could be used together to carry a cannon slung under the hull. Combine that with four swivel guns and we may have something fit to support a landing somewhere. Not impossible but...........fantasy perhaps? Yes, but it's backwards. I don't think so but it's a better guess than any I can propose at this time.
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I can't correct you as you are correct.
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Well, they might reach the water when fully loaded Hmm, I thought I did a similar cheat on my 16ft cutter but now I'm not sure. I think I dislike oars.
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G'day Allan. This drawing contains a few enigmas doesn't it? 'A' and it's mate/s in the bow look like sockets to me, the top section being drawn in black ink suggests they are near or on the gunwale, either for an awning stanchion or a small swivel gun. THIS would fit nicely. 'B' No idea at the moment but the red ink suggests it's near the centre line. 'C' (just in front of the mast) You didn't ask but it's probably a 'horse' for the jib sheet, Maybe? It would have been nice if the showed A, B and C on both drawings. Other interesting things: Double lifting eyes fore and aft, rollers fore and aft, cant frames fore and aft.
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Looks great! I really like the colour choices. I think you and I suffer from the same issue, the desire to make a wooden hull hewn with hand tools look like fibreglass popped from a mould. At least it's single banked, only six to make.
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And so we come to a rather delicate subject, one not much talked about in polite society since the advent of indoor plumbing. The backside! So she has an issue with her backside It seems to be a genetic flaw common to her sisters but never discussed. Her transom is wrong! It's wrong and it can't work. It will have to be bodged, fettling isn't enough
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No worries
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The bones are still there and everything but the deck gets covered up anyway
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Tough question. Expensive-ish. Very fine grain, often highly figured ,sometimes dead straight (like mine), growth rate can be < 1mm per year, often half that. Very long lived. Can no longer be felled, only salvaged. Very smooth finish, polishes to a high sheen without any need for oils or varnishes. Fades to a soft buttery yellow. https://www.australianwoodwork.com.au/blogs/news/what-is-so-special-about-huon-pine https://www.tasmanianspecialtimbers.com.au/special-huon-pine-slabs-for-sale/
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Welcome Rob, there are two other build logs here for the early version and they both started very slowly. The instructions are pretty poor if you're trying to do a serious build but we'll get there somehow. As mentioned earlier I do intend to fit the bulwarks prior to finishing the first planking as I'm not an octopus. I'll also fit the keel before starting the second planking so that it all 'blends' nicely.
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1st planking is Ramin, softish but doesn't bend well. 2nd is Mahogany or more likely Sapelli. It doesn't look too much like the Mahogany I know. I don't know many 'exotic' woods. On the other hand I finally bought some Huon Pine which will be reserved for models.
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No, they were supplied. But they're only 4 pounder pop guns. Slowly, about a third of the way through the first layer.
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Water spills, trust me. Don't use too small a diameter, trust me.
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Keep a few cotton buds handy, dampen them with saliva and wipe up the excess. But I don't often need them. Also my sanding stick is a fairly flexible ply about 20 x 180, it spans a few frames and follows the curve.
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I glue the plank edges. I do it full length using a syringe but even a few spots would help.
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I don't think I'd bother.
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6844 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86635
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Two examples, On the left 1 tap at the hull to let water drain into the well to then be pumped out. On the right 2 taps one at the hull and one at the base of the pump, this allows you to do the same as above or to pump from outboard without filling the well.
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