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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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Tinting shellac?
iMustBeCrazy replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
One thing to be aware of is how much shine you want, one coat of shellac can give you a low sheen finish but if you keep adding layers to get a darker colour it's going to get very shiny. So a few different diluted stains and tinted shellacs will give you the best control. Edit: Bob's got it, listen to him. -
Tinting shellac?
iMustBeCrazy replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I've done a little Dave, using spirit based stains (dyes,tints). I've also used the stain on it's own but diluted with denatured alcohol. There are only two three types of wood in my Bounty Launch, the knees are basswood, the thwarts footwaleing cap rails and windlass are Tasmanian Oak and the rest (including the quarterdeck) is Paulownia: -
Possibly the same thing that keeps moving? The wheelhouse is actually the binnacle-house (9). With the wheel at (19). The binnacle-house becomes the binnacle-pergola. A new compensated* waterproof binnacle is installed and the pergola is moved to between the funnel and ventilator. * probably to allow the fitting of the two Nordenfelt machine guns.
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I would say so. I think it's a binnacle. It seems to have 'balls'. Skip it, it only occurs in that pic. It looks like it belongs on a castle wall with a fire in it. You have to strike a balance, it only has to be good enough to sell and price will most likely be the deciding factor. It can also look a bit rustic. Rails could be bicycle spoke posts with automotive electrical wire with the insulation stripped off soldered to the posts (use one that has tin plated wire not bare copper) as cable. Don't do all the railing, just some. Pic 4 zoomed out a bit:
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She did when she arrived, later they moved it down the back yard as a garden shed and built a pergola for the helm. Later again they put a search light on the roof of the garden shed. One giant one aft with two small between it and the funnel and one big one forward (I can't see any others but). On the colour plans The giant one aft didn't have the 'hockey-stick' bend.
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Update time. Transom knees fitted, floorboards fitted, windlass chocks fitted, cap rails and thwarts made, windlass made. To do: Foredeck, there are several valid options but I think I'll go with framed with longitudinal planking. Thwart knees, iron or wood? Both the Bountys launch and large cutter had removable knees (and bolts), the cutters knees were stored in a carpenters chest - wooden knees would take up too much space so they were almost certainly iron - but the launch? Fender below the sheer strake. Cant frame in the bows. Mast steps and brackets, round or square lower mast? The drawings usually show round, the models square. Masts and sails. Oars. Rudder. Other stuff, probably.
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I figured that. One thing they couldn't stop themselves doing was playing with her, hardly any two photos are the same. The deck had a support in the middle of the turret (it shows in the drawing) and the 'cantilevered' deck stopped just past that. True but otherwise she would have been scrapped, at least we can still see her.
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G'day Steven, Having known her all my life and having walked her decks a few times Cerberus is certainly on my list. I have an original of this drawing inherited from my Uncle. I intend to redraw it in CAD but as usual it doesn't quite agree with other drawings I have found, unfortunately I can't find any 'official' drawings. Even her length varies. Anyway, I have a little collection of photos, drawings etc. If you need anything just ask.
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Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Oops. Doh! I blame working in 3D, it's unnatural. But on the bright side, we're getting closer and I'm learning things. -
Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
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Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
A section of an inverted cone sounds like a pretty good description, but shouldn't there be some curvature to it? Perhaps a section of an inverted bullet shape? -
Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I'm going to have to call it a 'rounded corner', an eighth of a sphere isn't right (but that's what is shown here). However you can see where the rounded corner cuts into T4 and T5, they will have to be shaped to fit. The rounded corner will need to follow the curve of station 29 and transom 3 will need to be extended outside the lower deck. The rounded corner will have to have a tighter radius. -
Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
(Note: The drawings below are really rough) It's both to give an intersecting point in space. The problem is that we know there are complex curves above waterline 5 and aft of station 29 and the plans give us no information about this area. Below W4 things are pretty straightforward because we have the shapes at the waterlines and adding new station lines aft of S29 is pretty much like nailing a batten on. We add in what info we have. And here we run in to my lack of skill, Transom 3 (in blue above) should have another curve on the aft surface curving forwards at the bottom edge. More importantly there is a shape, roughly an eighth of a sphere (visualise an orange cut vertically into four quarters the once horizontally giving eight "triangular" segments) with one of the points touching one of those top aft corners. (or something like that) The plans give no information about this shape or how it fairs into the waterlines etc we do have. Obviously the above drawing has errors, T2 is too wide t4 is too narrow and the curves aren't there. -
From the short grain where those three broke you were always going to have trouble. I suspect they were cut too close to a knot. Bending them at 90° to the way you did may have helped but probably not. If the wood had been milled with straight grain it would be a lot easier. I would suggest boil longer, take a rib direct from the boiling water and clamp it to to the mould near the keel, then walk your fingers along the rib bending it to the mould as you go. If at any time it doesn't feel like it's going to bend throw it back in the boiling water. I broke several when I did it but I salvaged a couple by putting a clamp over the split to keep the bend then superglueing them when they dried.
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Debating what to do about the colour scheme. The exterior I will probably paint white or white below the waterline, the interior I'm going to leave 'natural' but the wood seemed a bit too light (see first pic in the post above) so I took some shellac and added a touch of spirit based stain and brushed it on. Seems to have done the trick nicely. The stain bled through the plank joins in some places, but only enough to darken the seams a little. I could leave the hull with the current shellac finish without anyone noticing.
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Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Well I'm certainly not one of them, I believe I'm further down the learning curve than you. But since I have to do this myself sometime I had a play and this is what I came up with (not much): This superimposes the frame plan (green) and the outboard profile (blue) over the inboard profile (red) and shows that the transoms are horizontal across the stern and that they are horizontal in profile except number 3 which tilts down following the lower deck. Since number 3 tucks up under the lower deck, we can use the lower deck plan to get the shape of number 3. That's about all I can come up with, hope it helps. -
Kitty's hull is currently getting re-painted white, I had it wrong. She will look a lot better for it. I have also drawn up the mast, below is what I had to work with alongside one cross section drawn by my Father. That's the mast on the right and the boom at the bottom. And, no I can't read any of the measurements either.
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