iMustBeCrazy
-
Posts
955 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
-
Why is it that vessels after the invention of the camera pose the toughest questions? Given that the above two photos are taken from almost the same spot, it would appear that during the voyage the area between the 'ritz' and the cabins was fully decked in. It would also appear that the 'ritz' skylight was rebuilt (note that the man in the small pic in post #11 has his foot on the old roof of the skylight (he is also carrying or passing down a piece of wood suitable for making a ladder). Compare that with the following pic. So it looks like the roof was taken off, the glazed panels removed and the roof re-fitted. My guess is that it was getting difficult or dangerous to access the Bridge Deck using the external companionways.
-
Yep, if only they had added 10mm at the aft end of all strakes 😞 It was a while ago so I don't really remember and my photos don't show everything but I think the strake next to the garboard is the shortest. Having say 2mm overhang (not more) on the garboard will help with the length and hopefully the extra 0.5mm you took off the moulds will fix the width issues. (or you could take off a little from the inside of the next strake, shown in purple below, which will also pull that strake back a bit).
-
I bet that feels better. This model will spread if not restrained until you glue the thwarts in. I made a cradle for it to sit in but that was overkill. For my 16ft cutter I just glued three bits of wood together to form a frame that hung over the sides, it doesn't have to be fancy. A little fairing of the ribs themselves might be a good idea. Remember the laser cutting puts a bevel on the edges, unfortunately they are all cut from the same side, good for one half of the hull bad for the other. So you have to fix the 'bad' side and then fix the 'good' side so the widths are the same. Remember you don't really have any spare width and also that the bevel varies with the curvature of the hull.
-
Given the scale, the width of the cap rail for the yawl would be less than the thickness of a one cent coin with those of the cutters about twice that of the yawl. I suspect your 'planking' is thicker (mine would be). (Yawl 2 1/2" - 4", Cutters 4 1/2" - 6") Otherwise, simulate scarph joints with diagonal joins.
-
Tim, I can't think of any reason you can't just screw something (or some things) to the false deck. I gets covered up anyway. I think I just stood mine on the top timbers (bulwarks) but I think the above would be better.
-
Well, it was a valiant attempt and certainly a success in it's own way but I suspect that even if you churned out kits on a CNC mill it would be difficult to show a profit. Meanwhile a couta boat. There used to be a few in varying states of decrepitation and perfection on Mordialloc creek. If the sun comes out and I'm down there I'll see if there's any left and grab you some shots.
-
Tim, the one I started in 2018 is about 1mm out either side and when I re-drew it just now I get the same. Yours also seems to sit a bit high, have you joined it the same as Thunder did? EDIT: Maybe you did and I'm wrong, it's hard to tell.
-
And you should find the 'card' for Rattle Snake at No 116. On it in the lower left you will see the reference 'F 18'. As there is only one reference there is only one drawing. To access the drawing open the link Bruce provided in post #17 and search in the left column for F 18. You should find a F14-F31, click on the plus symbol, nothing but numbers, number 1 is F14, 2 is the back of F14 etc etc (most of the time) 9 is F 18. It's a real pity that they made this wonderful resource so hard to navigate. Anyway, have fun.
-
Months and months of fun at a guess! But for some of us your hard work (actually 'Diligence' seems more appropriate ) paid off. Thank you again. Lapwing (1816) Kite Fancy (1817) Racer Sprightly Nightingale (1825) Speedy (1828) Snipe (1828) Vigilant (1821) Swift (1821) Basilisk (1822) Bramble (1822) Skylark Diligence
-
Umm. Earlier was 2018, before I found this forum. First ever 'build' and I wasn't happy with what I was doing and with the family connection I wanted to show more of the interior. The moulds/bulkheads were corrected. Which lead to something more like Bruce is suggesting: But I still wasn't happy, so I bought a Bounty Launch kit and found this forum and started learning. But I still wasn't happy, so I designed and built my small Cutter and learned a lot. I was quite happy with that so I designed and am building my Bounty Launch (and 'Kitty'). Which brings us up to date.
-
Here's one I made earlier
-
True, but the plans Tim has will build him a cutter, just not Speedy. For me, my great grandfather sailed out here on Lapwing so I'm more inclined to build her and get her right, unfortunately.
-
Definitely a nightmare. 2 sets of plans, 2 draftsmen. Sheet 1 and 2 are a pair but the one showing the moulds is different. The book of building the model gives the answer, despite the name on the box and book It's not Speedy! Page 31 of the book gives references and says "The original Admiralty draught of the naval cutter that the 'Speedy' model was based on" and shows a drawing. Except it's not! The drawing shown is ZAZ6373 which is the drawing 'Skylark' was to be built from along with 'Swift', 'Bramble' and 'Diligence'. I believe these were cancelled and the names 'Skylark', 'Swift', 'Bramble' and 'Diligence' and 'Speedy' were later given to vessels built on the lines of the 'Lapwing', hence the confusion. So the model is of the proposed 'Skylark' perhaps with some alterations taken from 'Lapwing/Speedy' drawings. Lots of room for confusion. So I confess I was wrong, it's ZAZ6425 which is Lapwing and therefore Speedy.. Tooooo many drawings.
-
Are you sure? I've been asleep but looking this morning there are some discrepancies between drawings. And it doesn't help that there are 10 stations and 9 moulds. The 1st drawing below has a scale to which I have corrected but the aspect ratio is wrong (only just noticed that) station 6 should be 10'11" ( half of 21'10" ). I traced the sternpost, keel and stem and copied it to the other drawing which has been scaled to Mould 'E' which should be 21'10" (twice station 6) and the length doesn't match. So there is possibly something wrong with the scaling of individual sections. Maybe? Or maybe I'm still asleep having a nightmare? See post #7.
-
At this stage she's looking better than the original! But don't forget the new paint scheme:
-
Sorry Tim, Speedy (1928) is based on Lapwing (1916) and believe me, there are no hires plans. Edit: I forgot about the Danish drawings found by Bruce_d (post #11 below) Revisit my Lapwing thread for clues: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23486-lapwing-1816-revenue-cutter/
-
Allan, I think the context is 'not reclaimed/recycled" so ground as in the past tense of grind. toes, tocs, I don't know.
-
The Captains (armoured) observatory. It's a little more complicated (just a little I promise). But perhaps I'm being fussy. And no, I wouldn't be making the boats either. Way over the top.
-
Tinting shellac?
iMustBeCrazy replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
One thing to be aware of is how much shine you want, one coat of shellac can give you a low sheen finish but if you keep adding layers to get a darker colour it's going to get very shiny. So a few different diluted stains and tinted shellacs will give you the best control. Edit: Bob's got it, listen to him. -
Tinting shellac?
iMustBeCrazy replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I've done a little Dave, using spirit based stains (dyes,tints). I've also used the stain on it's own but diluted with denatured alcohol. There are only two three types of wood in my Bounty Launch, the knees are basswood, the thwarts footwaleing cap rails and windlass are Tasmanian Oak and the rest (including the quarterdeck) is Paulownia:
-
Fenders and port cap rail fitted. I need to finish the interior before fitting the starboard.
-
Possibly the same thing that keeps moving? The wheelhouse is actually the binnacle-house (9). With the wheel at (19). The binnacle-house becomes the binnacle-pergola. A new compensated* waterproof binnacle is installed and the pergola is moved to between the funnel and ventilator. * probably to allow the fitting of the two Nordenfelt machine guns.
c.png.36c36fb6f539e411baa9bdbaa7688162.png)
-
I would say so. I think it's a binnacle. It seems to have 'balls'. Skip it, it only occurs in that pic. It looks like it belongs on a castle wall with a fire in it. You have to strike a balance, it only has to be good enough to sell and price will most likely be the deciding factor. It can also look a bit rustic. Rails could be bicycle spoke posts with automotive electrical wire with the insulation stripped off soldered to the posts (use one that has tin plated wire not bare copper) as cable. Don't do all the railing, just some. Pic 4 zoomed out a bit:
-
She did when she arrived, later they moved it down the back yard as a garden shed and built a pergola for the helm. Later again they put a search light on the roof of the garden shed. One giant one aft with two small between it and the funnel and one big one forward (I can't see any others but). On the colour plans The giant one aft didn't have the 'hockey-stick' bend.
-
Update time. Transom knees fitted, floorboards fitted, windlass chocks fitted, cap rails and thwarts made, windlass made. To do: Foredeck, there are several valid options but I think I'll go with framed with longitudinal planking. Thwart knees, iron or wood? Both the Bountys launch and large cutter had removable knees (and bolts), the cutters knees were stored in a carpenters chest - wooden knees would take up too much space so they were almost certainly iron - but the launch? Fender below the sheer strake. Cant frame in the bows. Mast steps and brackets, round or square lower mast? The drawings usually show round, the models square. Masts and sails. Oars. Rudder. Other stuff, probably.
Our Emblem ®
