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iMustBeCrazy

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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy

  1. I was looking at drawing this trunnion carronade ( https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86768 ) as a possibility For Lapwing when I get back to her. But it turned out that it was a poorly dimensioned sketch and the carronade is too wide for trunnion supports to fit on the slide and bed. I could have made those wider but decided to put the mount under the barrel as per more normal carronades. I also decided to do a 3D version which is something that has been outside my comfort zone. The results so far: The barrel was built in sections indicated by the different colours. And the mount was merged into the section of barrel. Drawings and perhaps an STL file later, decisions about what to include and angles still to be made.
  2. Looking good. But have you faired 1,2 and 3 already? That gets done after you fit the ribs to the other moulds (but not 1,2 & 3). Not a big deal if you have but you will have to glue on some false ribs. So, your spacers are about 0.1mm long giving a cumulative error of about 1.5mm or are the about 0.2mm long giving a cumulative error of about 1.5mm each end? I think the magic number was 26.1mm so I would suggest replacing every fourth one with one 0.2mm short (ie: 25.9mm). These have to twist to follow the faired moulds, I'm not too sure about a bending iron. I think I finished up boiling them for two minutes and fitting them as one piece (port and starboard as one) by poking it through the keel to the middle then bending but I don't think the keel actually needs to be fitted which would make it easier. Don't just grab the ends and bend, work your way out from the false keel applying pressure and clamping as you go. Make two sets of ribs so you have the intermediate ones pre-bent. When the second set has dried you could put a small dab of glue on each and then fit the keel. 😁
  3. I certainly did Tim. Fortunately my run has had better outcomes. Late last year my younger brother was diagnosed with leukemia, treatment seems to have worked but full recovery will take time. Two weeks ago my mother had a small heart attack during a pacemaker replacement, she is nearing recovery. Three days after that my elder brother was diagnosed with prostate cancer, it was removed and despite it being a very aggressive cancer it doesn't appear to have spread. Me, my migraines are almost gone (they were only mild anyway). But, that's life in a big city. As for cutters, Lapwing will probably get some re-drawing after reading this document posted by Kris.
  4. Well, that went well. She was recognised and appreciated, and I should be getting a few more colour photos.
  5. Ok, the deadline has arrived. I would have liked a couple more coats of paint but that's life. I didn't really expect to get any further in the timeframe.
  6. No problem. One thing that would help with the planks is to take a bit more off the moulds when fairing, half a millimetre might do. And you may be able to fit the transom with the TRANS on the inside and cover it with a backrest for the stern seat. Check it first, I might be wrong.
  7. Hopefully I've done all the woodwork needed for now. A little more prep and masking and get some colour on her tomorrow. That splash guard was a right pain, way too many angles all at once.
  8. No, sorry perhaps I did. However I do think that the Sailmaker painting is based on the Knijff painting and therefore the same vessel. I think here are just too many similarities. But hey, I could be wrong.
  9. And here the RMG show otherwise. The wiki entry for HMY Fubbs says James II had 9 yachts. The two paintings in your first post are showing the same vessel at the same event and I suspect it is the same as the closest one in the painting I linked to. I doubt either artist was at that event but both must have had access to the vessel or a painting of it Or perhaps one painter based his off the others painting??
  10. Greetings fellow Bounty Launch builder, I'm on my second which is a scratch build, the first was a Model Shipways. There are a few traps with the Model Shipways kit so I suggest you read all the build logs, this link should help you find them. The most common are the word 'TRANS' etched on the transom and the length of the planks (only just enough if you do them perfectly), they should have been a little longer. In this thread we try to sort fact from fiction, you might find it interesting. It starts as a discussion about oars but morphs into a more general discussion on the Bountys boats. Truthfully, nobody knows. It is likely it was white or perhaps grey but again nobody knows so do what you like. If that's about station/frame 3 it doesn't matter, that rib is added after removing the boat from the false keel. Same for 1 and 2. The ribs sit in the notches in the keel, the moulds should sit at a height that supports them there EXCEPT 1 2 and 3 where the moulds include false ribs as the real ones are added later. The instructions should warn against gluing planks to moulds 1 2 and 3. I believe I've got that all correct but it was a while ago.
  11. The last pieces of decking being glued: As you can see I was going to stain and 'varnish' the decks as the was how she was in the photos I had, but I found a later colour slide showing her in a pale aqua which is how I remember her (I couldn't remember if the deck was still varnished). I see the boom has a splint (has been fished) but when the photo was taken there wasn't even a breath of wind, I wonder what the story was.
  12. Steven, I may be wrong but: (I might have to put that in my signature) To me the depictions in the mosaics look more like sweeps through ports in the stern than any form of styrbord or rudder. I don't know how that would fit historically.
  13. At the rate you're going this might be too late but: On an open boat sand everything on the inside before fitting, sanding later is a pain. Dang, you just posted, I knew it would be too late.
  14. Well, I failed with the ply. It's just too stiff. So I sanded a piece of paulownia (which I used/am using on my Bounty boats and for everything except the bulkheads on Kitty) down to 0.65mm to match the ply and fitting it was a piece of cake. Paulownia is very like double density balsa. Once it's filled and painted no one will know.
  15. Well, as I expected the bow sections are a bit more of a challenge. Both the long edges change from overlapping the keel or side to a butt joint to the stem or side add to that getting the curve working and you can see it's going to be fun. The shape wasn't too hard, templated in card. And I think this will achieve the curves. It has been warmed with a heat gun but I do not know yet if it was warm enough. And yes, that's another stringer gone.
  16. A rubber band and a piece of scrap wood will create a reference you can measure from. You can also square it up from one of the transoms to align things lengthwise.
  17. Make a 'V' block as shown, if the brass is too short put a bit of wood through it and clamp both ends.
  18. Moving along, most of the bottom on but I suspect the rest will be more difficult. Broke two more stringers but she is learning to fight back, she drew blood twice.
  19. Chines and shelves connect to the stem and stringers connected to the chines. Sides fitted. Dang those stringers are fragile I've broken four or five so far, good thing I don't really need them.
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