Long9Ron
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Long9Ron reacted to Boccherini in Grants Triton - FINISHED
Mark & Christian, Pete and Wacko Wolf,
thanks for your interest/comments. I'll be returning to my model of the "Harriet McGregor" from Underhill's plans, shelved due to loss of interest brought on by some mistakes made early in the construction requiring fiddly fixes that depart from the plans. I'm now ready (and better equipped) to deal with the results of my ignorance/lack of understanding and finish her.
For general interest, here are some construction pictures for the stanchions, barrels and anchor.
A word of warning, before soldering the ring to the stanchion, make sure the fit is tight. Any wobble will allow the ring to go skew when soldering. The entry rope stanchions have an eye soldered on top instead of the bracket.
The barrels were turned from solid timber, I couldn't figure out how to cut the wedges required to show the staves. The ends were hollowed out to allow the installation of the barrel ends. I used paper strips for the hoops.
The anchor was made from wood and sprayed. The method is in the MSW data base, I modified it slightly, the results were better than expected.
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Long9Ron reacted to Boccherini in Grants Triton - FINISHED
Anthony & Joss,
thanks for the kind words. It did work well, not my idea though, this was borrowed from a Russian model of the Victory ( I think), from quite a few years ago.
It is finally complete and with the new owner.
Grant.
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Long9Ron reacted to AnobiumPunctatum in Triton (1:48) by kellrandy (Randall)
Randall,
these differences are quite normal. If you print out the parts on your deskjet, you will see that it makes a difference if you use landscape or portrait format.
They are very small (0.1) and are up to the manufacturing process of the paper. Another source of the porblem is the thikness of the line. If I remember right they are about 0.25mm. If you saw out a part and sand to the correct size, you see normally more than the half of the line.
0.25mm in sum are very small but if you glue more than one part together your get very quick a difference of 1 mm and more. I didn't count how many deadwoods I have casted off until I understand how to work with these problems:
Try to use allways the same paper and paper direction and sand your parts until the whole line is nearly invisble. And the rest is handcraft - so small differences are totally normal.
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Long9Ron reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
The main topsail sheet bitt pins are located within the upper well. These insert onto the aft face of the lower deck beam and there is a score for the upper deck beam. Once the well has been secured in place it will be difficult to access this area so I started them now. The pins are 9" square above the upper deck beam. Below that they taper on the aft face. They are perpendicular to the keel. Rather than make the entire bitt now and risk damage, I only made the pins up to the upper deck beam. To maintain correct alignment I glued on two temporary cross bars away from where the cross-piece and gallows will be placed. Holes were drilled through the score for the upper deck beam and into the beam. Steel pins are holding the pins in place. Holes have also been cut in the hatch cover for the main jeer bitt pins. The pictures show the bitt pins before and after the upper well was installed.
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Long9Ron reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24
Thank you for your nice words.
Building time comparisons: previously built a 74 gun ship at 1/48 and 1/24. It took the same time to build each one, so size is just a matter of space.
To have some space you must take some time to think where to store your tools and you need many drawers. By example,recently I regrouped the little tools.
in a home made old school chest with 16 drawers, For this matter square feet is important not volume, meaning many 1 inch high drawers. Just for this chest, if you put all the drawers together, you get 41 square feet. Before that, all these little tools were stored in many different places.
I do not do this professionnally, I just do it because I like it.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from Jeronimo in LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
Nice work Karl. Love your build.
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Long9Ron reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have completed and installed the beam arms. Because of their length, these were made scale 10" thick. The deck camber was shaped added after they were fit to the beam. This beam set is just aft of the dead flat, the widest part of the ship. In order to install the assembly, only one beam arm could be glued in place off the ship. The other one was temporarily glued and then drilled for the three bolts. The glue was de-bonded with isopropanol and the bolt holes were used to align the beam arm during the rest of the assembly's fabrication.
The hanging knees are now located on the aft faces of the beams. The pictures were taken before final sanding (I was running out of daylight). The next project is the upper well.
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Long9Ron reacted to Jeronimo in LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
Hello friends,
new photos of the construction progress of the BHR.
I wish you all happy holidays.
regards Karl
T e i l 39
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Long9Ron reacted to SaturnV in SaturnV's 1:48 Full Framed Triton Build
Hello all,
I received my Swan book - what wealth of information that is! A good buy.
Additionally, I have been installing frames from stem to stern and am now working on the bow cant frames.
I feel I need to install these cant frames first so that I have a reference line for the bollard and the pieces that go before it. It should be an easier task to just fill in the gap rather than start with the bullard and then make frame W.
So below is my progress so far. Mini-me has made a return to help with scale. I have glued the pieces together for the cant frames and have just placed them in their position to see how they look. I will begin fairing them soon to a point close to their final shape then I can start the filler pieces and the bollard.
Please pardon all of the rubber bands. They are trapped on the frames but will be cut off when the cant frames are done at both ends. They are still needed to hold the model in place when I glue in the final frames.
Richard
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Long9Ron reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch. These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones. As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room. The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4. This was a fun little structure to make. The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room. I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade. On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door. Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room. There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there. Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door. The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt. The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8". This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square. Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead. Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side. The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
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Long9Ron reacted to Jeronimo in LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
Hello friends,
news pictures of the Bonhomme Richard.
Regards Karl
T e i l 3 7
B. Orlop-Deck
6 Surgeon's storeroom / Arztraum
7 Spore anchor / Reserve Anker
8 Scuttle leading to the carpenter's walk / Zimmermann - Laderaum
9 Scuttle providing acces to the shot-locker / Zugang zu dem Kugelraum
10 Dried vegetables / Trockenraum für Pflanzen
11 Officer's provisions / Versorgungsraum der Offiziere
12 Bread- room / Brot - Lagerraum
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Long9Ron reacted to Jeronimo in LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
Hi federicoaa,
some pictures of the construction the barrels.
Karl
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Long9Ron got a reaction from ZyXuz in My Homemade Wood Lathe
The drill that I use is an old Sears variable speed drill. It's range is from 0 to 1200 rpm. Running at 3 amps. It's not very fast, but will do in a pinch. It is also hard to hold a square piece of wood in a three prong chuck. When it runs for a period of time it does get a bit hot. Higher speed, with a capability of controlling the speed, would be a better choice in my opinion. I made this when I was first starting out with ship modeling and saw some DIY lathes, so I decided to make one. There are a lot of better DIY lathes out there. I hope your DIY lathe project turns out the way that's best for you.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from ZyXuz in My Homemade Wood Lathe
Just thought I would re-post the pictures of my homemade wood lathe.
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Long9Ron reacted to rafine in Triton cross section 1:48 by rafine
The outer hull is now complete with the addition of the molding, trim, fenders and steps. The molding is pear, made of two rounded and laminated pieces, rather than using a scraper on a single piece. The trim piece at the top is a piece of ebony. I chose to do this rather than another pear molding as a matter of artistic license. The fenders are cut from boxwood and sanded to shape. The steps are also boxwood and were filed to shape. Unlike some others, I chose to mount the fenders first and then added the molding and trim in pieces to fit. I just find it easier to get tight fits this way, rather than first mounting the moldings in one piece and trying to notch them perfectly.
It's now time to do the hatches, bitts and guns.
Bob
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Long9Ron got a reaction from AntonyUK in H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Long9Ron - Scale 1:48
I have finally finished the Lower deck now. I used a homemade punch to mark all of the treenails and then filled them with a ebony wood filler and sanded the deck and then applied 4 coats of Antique Oil. I think it turned out okay. I placed two treenails on every plank between the butt planks, maybe overkill, but I still think it worked out okay. Could have been a bit neater though.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from Pete38 in H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Long9Ron - Scale 1:48
I have finally finished the Lower deck now. I used a homemade punch to mark all of the treenails and then filled them with a ebony wood filler and sanded the deck and then applied 4 coats of Antique Oil. I think it turned out okay. I placed two treenails on every plank between the butt planks, maybe overkill, but I still think it worked out okay. Could have been a bit neater though.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from mtaylor in H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Long9Ron - Scale 1:48
I have finally finished the Lower deck now. I used a homemade punch to mark all of the treenails and then filled them with a ebony wood filler and sanded the deck and then applied 4 coats of Antique Oil. I think it turned out okay. I placed two treenails on every plank between the butt planks, maybe overkill, but I still think it worked out okay. Could have been a bit neater though.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from Paddy in Triton X Section - MainSail Top Bitts - Sheaves
I'm almost at the point on the build where I will be making the MainSail Top Bitts and was wondering if the sheaves were made of brass or wood. I see on some models it looks like wood has been used for the sheaves, but in other models brass has been used for the sheaves. Maybe it's my eyes, but if brass was used, then how did they mount them inside the post? Am I wrong? I don't see anything in the pdf files on the MainSail Top Bitts that mention brass. Can someone give me some guidance on how to make them. Thanks
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Long9Ron got a reaction from Roman in My Homemade tools - Long9Ron
Well, when the site was down I was in the garage building some more homemade tools. I already built my Wood Lathe http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/126-my-homemade-wood-lathe/ . Here are some pictures of my homemade Table Saw (not mini) and my homemade Drum Sander and my homemade Thickness Sander. No plans or anything, just built them as I went along. I think I put good use of the time spent during the change over, and they work too.
Ron
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Long9Ron got a reaction from Roman in My Homemade Wood Lathe
Just thought I would re-post the pictures of my homemade wood lathe.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from aykutansin in H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Long9Ron - Scale 1:48
Grant
I gave your way a shot at it, but I preferred to do in individually. Worked out better for me that way.
The following pictures show the lower deck planking being installed. I used the 1,3,5,2,4, pattern and 100 lb. weight black paper and it looks okay to me, although the joints never really aligned with the ledges and beams. Oh well. learn as I go.
I have not decided on how to treenail the lower deck as yet. Maybe use filler as I don't have a draw plate to make any bamboo treenails and I didn't like the way the toothpick inner hull turned out. Toothpicks look to big and I should have had two instead on one.
You can see in the picture how far out my framing is by looking at the planking on the right side of the deck. I have learned a good lesson on this build. "MAKE SURE THE FRAMES ARE ALIGNED AND SPACED PROPERLY WHEN YOU FIRST START" or problems will be compounded further down the build. Next build will be better. Further sanding is required on the lower deck before treenailing and continuing.
It's all a learning process at this stage and on this my first build.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from Paddy in H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Long9Ron - Scale 1:48
Grant
I gave your way a shot at it, but I preferred to do in individually. Worked out better for me that way.
The following pictures show the lower deck planking being installed. I used the 1,3,5,2,4, pattern and 100 lb. weight black paper and it looks okay to me, although the joints never really aligned with the ledges and beams. Oh well. learn as I go.
I have not decided on how to treenail the lower deck as yet. Maybe use filler as I don't have a draw plate to make any bamboo treenails and I didn't like the way the toothpick inner hull turned out. Toothpicks look to big and I should have had two instead on one.
You can see in the picture how far out my framing is by looking at the planking on the right side of the deck. I have learned a good lesson on this build. "MAKE SURE THE FRAMES ARE ALIGNED AND SPACED PROPERLY WHEN YOU FIRST START" or problems will be compounded further down the build. Next build will be better. Further sanding is required on the lower deck before treenailing and continuing.
It's all a learning process at this stage and on this my first build.
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Long9Ron got a reaction from Pete38 in H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Long9Ron - Scale 1:48
Grant
I gave your way a shot at it, but I preferred to do in individually. Worked out better for me that way.
The following pictures show the lower deck planking being installed. I used the 1,3,5,2,4, pattern and 100 lb. weight black paper and it looks okay to me, although the joints never really aligned with the ledges and beams. Oh well. learn as I go.
I have not decided on how to treenail the lower deck as yet. Maybe use filler as I don't have a draw plate to make any bamboo treenails and I didn't like the way the toothpick inner hull turned out. Toothpicks look to big and I should have had two instead on one.
You can see in the picture how far out my framing is by looking at the planking on the right side of the deck. I have learned a good lesson on this build. "MAKE SURE THE FRAMES ARE ALIGNED AND SPACED PROPERLY WHEN YOU FIRST START" or problems will be compounded further down the build. Next build will be better. Further sanding is required on the lower deck before treenailing and continuing.
It's all a learning process at this stage and on this my first build.
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