Cleat
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CNC-Model Making
Cleat replied to Jefta's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I don't recall all the programs I checked out; some have subscriptions, some don't, and some are very expensive. Mesh Cam looks similar to VCarve, I think VCarve might have more features. I noticed VCarve is favored with many CNC users. You buy VCarve once and can use it without a subscription. You have the option to buy a low cost fee for a year of free updates. One feature you really need is a CAM module/program (CAM converts a drawing into G-code); VCarve does that and it looks like Mesh Cam does it too. Before I bought VCarve I used QCad ($40) and bought their CAM software ($70) but you need to know how g-codes work to troubleshoot problems (it outputs generic code). VCarve can output g-code for a variety of CNC machines and it looks like Mech Cam does that too. -
CNC-Model Making
Cleat replied to Jefta's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I import .DWG and .SVG files. I bought Qcad ($40) to learn CAD software, I now use it for designing my wood working projects. I also used it to design a jig to help bend wire to bend several stair railings, the jig was a simple shape cut into a piece of wood where I could place the brass wire to shape the bends.. I also use a vector based program like Inkscape which produces .SVG files. Inkscape is free and easier to use than CAD software but CAD software is more accurate. -
CNC-Model Making
Cleat replied to Jefta's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I bought a Sainsmart 3018 Prover a few years ago. I bought it primarily for laser etching; I got a package that included a spindle plus some accessories. For model shipbuilding, I used the spindle to cut a jig that helped me bend brass wire for stairway railings. I used it to create stairway runners that I had broken. I used it to cut walnut veneer to cover some plywood pieces for my current built. I consider it a good learning tool and Sainsmart has very good support. I learned enough that I decided to buy a bigger CNC router machine for my garage (I made a lake contour map in wood). I’ve used a variety of free and inexpensive software. When I bought the machine for my garage I bought VCarve which is worth the price; it has tools to design (you can import drawings), it has a variety of tools to create and troubleshoot toolpaths, and it creates G-code to operate a CNC machine (they support a variety of CNC manufacturers). I’ve been writing myself a manual for CNC processes because I don’t use it often enough to remember everything. It is helpful the learn what G codes are. The CNC learning process is steep but VCarve helps reduce the learning process.
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Time to cut some lumber for the planking. I have a 2-inch chop saw that I used to cut dowls for a woodworking project. I made a fence for it to make it useful for model ship building. I’ll leave the 2x5 mm stock for the bottom natural. I’ll be testing dark stains on 4x4 mm scrap pieces to see what it looks like, I can always paint those pieces black.
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I cut walnut veneer to cover the plywood stand. I had some breakage but it glued up OK. Rubber bands make nice clamps. I cut walnut veneer for several parts. I didn’t consider the wood grain when I created the file to cut the veneer for the stand. (I used a CNC machine) It turned out OK, I wasn’t sure how the stain would look. I tried to make it look worn but it took a few applications to cover results I didn’t like.
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Wipe On Poly Techniques
Cleat replied to Freebird's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I like to use thinned polyurethane for garage projects and Minwax Wipe On Ploy for my indoor hobby projects. A can of Minwax is more convenient for my small indoor projects. I've also used water based poly indoors too. -
Your riverboat looks great. The people give it a realistic feel.
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I worked with my hobby CNC machine and cut two sets of walnut veneer for the frames (good cnc experience project). After cutting the first set I made a change for the second set. Both sets had a reasonable fit. The top S-shaped piece wasn’t as precise as the other pieces, the second set was an improvement. Most of the pieces fit without adjustment, the small pieces on the sides took a lot of fitting. I planned on putting the second set on the front but I got into placing, fitting, and gluing and didn't notice which side I was working on. I scanned several kit pieces and processed the images with a variety of software to make a file to cut. I cut 0.5 mm walnut veneer and the cuts are pretty accurate. I also learned that 0.5 mm veneer is easily broken when handled.
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I cleaned up the interior wall end pieces and applied veneer the frame to gussy it up. There are a lot of different pieces stacked together. I installed the top deck but I didn’t want to install any pieces on the deck while handling the structure during the planking installation.
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I inadvertently put some posts of my build on another person's build (I have been referencing their build). I'm wondering how I can move the posts to my build.
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It is looking really good. What is left?
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I got another deck done and I'm ready for the top deck. I will be filling the gaps and cleaning up the ends and extension of the interior walls. I will apply some walnut veneer to the plywood frame.
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To make the columns I marked the ends with a pencil. I used a round file to create the transition from the square ends to the round middles. I used a flat file to knock off the edges. I used 150 grit sandpaper to round the columns.
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I'm making progress. I added another deck. I noticed that I placed the columns inline with each deck with the first columns, the kit shows the columns next to the center features. I haven't decided if I want to move them of leave them as is and call it a personalization.
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The rope work is great. I nothing but trouble with the rigging (I failed trying to make the big knots).
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I assembled the first two decks. I had to revise the notch in the bracket frames (item 40) to make them fit. I started to think about how I might treat the ends of for the interior strips. There are some gaps to fill where the cross beams attach to the frame.
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While my finger is healing, the first thing I could do was use a mouse. I scanned some of the laser cut plywood parts and created CAD drawings that I can use to cut walnut veneer for the pieces – such as the stand. Unfortunately, my hobby CNC machine is down and they don’t make the control board for it anymore; fortunately, Sainsmart has very good customer support and they found one at a distributor. I’ve been gaging my finger recovery by doing some model ship building tasks. I assembled the grating and glued the seams with a Glue Looper tip (fits Exacto handle). The Glue Looper has a small loop that you dip in thin CA glue and apply it to a seam; it uses capillary action to draw the glue from the tip into the seam. It works great. The tip is small enough to fit into each square of the grid.
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It looks great. Did your passengers get a reduced rate while you finished the railings?
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I also had some trouble with the laser cut curved railings too. I reconfigured the curved sections at the stern to make my laser cut pieces work. I like how your railings turned out.
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Your build looks great (I hope mine turns out this nice). I've been thinking about painting the cannon base a dark red too, I'm glad to see how it looks. When you installed the side panels with the cannon openings, did you need to bend the panels to fit the frame? If so, what technique did you use?
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- Santisima Trinidad
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I scanned a frame piece before I started the kit. I traced the frame scan, scaled the drawing, and created structure components to emulate similar designs in other logs. I cut some walnut laminate with an inexpensive CNC machine to test my process and the see how the pieces fit. I applied stain and finish to some of the pieces to see how the walnut will look. I placed the pieces on the frame to check the how they will work (I didn’t fit the pieces). I created another file to cut another set of walnut laminate pieces plus a pair of the one-piece frame laminate; unfortunately, my CNC machine stopped working (part on order). I also dislocated a finger so I can’t use an Exacto knife for a while. I have a bunch of walnut laminate so I plan on cutting walnut laminate for more of the laser cut plywood pieces.
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I liked how the planks on the base of the frame turned out so I did the same thing for the decks. I decided to do all the decks at one time to so all the decks would look the same. I checked the width of each stock piece I used because the there are several pieces that have a slightly larger width. I applied stain to the 1x3 stock, when dry I cut the pieces to length. The parts list specs 90mm but I cut them to 91mm. I applied a single coat of Wipe-On poly (clear satin), I don’t want to make it too shiny. I’m test fitting the bottom deck and it fit pretty well. I’ll attach it after I apply veneer to the mast base.
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To make the deck columns I used a round file to make the transition from the square end to the round column. I tried using my micro lathe to turn the column but the stock is too small for the lathe (and centering the stock in the lathe was hard), I managed to knock the corners off but I could only process about half the column, I turned it around and knocked the corners off the other half to prepare it for sanding. I used 150 grit sandpaper to shape the column by rotating it in a sandpaper wrap.
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I hadn't considered adding a crew, I don't know where to get miniatures like crew. I've been looking though your build and it looks great. You log is helpful and I'll be following.
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The build starts with a temporary base, the instruction points out not to glue the keel to the temporary base. Looking through the instructions, you eventually cut the hull from frame tabs glued to the temporary base. I applied stain to the 2x5 mm stock to get uneven coloring before I cut and glue the floor pieces to bottom of the hull. The last floor plank on each side needs to be trimmed to fit; I needed a 3mm wide piece so I set my plane to 3mm and planed the 2x5 mm planks to 2x3 mm (it is nice to have the right tool for the job). I’ve noticed in other logs that some create the look of a structure on first frame. I plan on emulating what md1400cs did in his build log. I have some walnut veneer and a hobby CNC machine so I scanned a frame piece to start the process to create the structure pieces. (it will be a side project to practice working with my CNC machine). I wonder if the structure detail will be seen when the hull is completed.
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