cog

It's a pitty you will put her in a bottle. A lot of this wonderful detail will be harder to spot!
Cheers

probably a file or a sharpening stone. Sanding sticks tend to run smooth rather quickly ... unless you like to polish

Hi Igor
 
Very nice and impressive work!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 

Then I completed the wiring of the running rigging of the first of the front sails

Nah, I'm thinking about a sub (pink?) Working on repairs on some parts of the superstructure like the range finder, and other parts. Doing to much different things at my workbench/desk. Still waiting on some stuff I need so I can continue. Holiday time is a major pain. With phisical shops you'd now if you could get it or not. Nowadays you just have to wait! Parts from downunder take rather long, because of customs here.
 
Your build, however, is going rather smooth. I like the colour the grating. Great contrast. Livens it up considarably. Your seven storied pagoda looks smashing, even with the few parts missing you mentioned

Then I made a couple backstays

Hi Hartmut
 
Many thanks for showing the stages to build your blocks.  Nice and precise, yet artful at the same time.
 
Cheers and thanks  
 
Patrick

Very nice work Hartmut,
 she is showing her future shape, and details. It won't be long before she is all dressed up and ready. Didin't know we Dutch had such colourful boots/yachts, when you look at the paintings from that period, we are wearing such a depressing dress colour

.... continued.
 
Gluing the top to the sides begins with the straight join at the front of the turret :

 
Next are the rounded edges :

 
Moving on to the cube on the left side :

 
Finally the large areas at the back of the turret :



 
Before fitting any railngs I glued on the PE Doors and Hatches. I used 0.2mm wire for the railings, starting with the legs on the top section :

 
Then I bent, rolled and fitted the trickier pieces at the front :

 
I used CA to glue the rails to the legs, one at a time :

 
Then the side railings using the same methods :



 
  Danny

Hello  PatricK!  Many thanks for your kind words!
 
As you wanted - some pics from the modelling of blocks.
     
First step: Drill in to holes at the end of the slots.
Second step: milling the slot in between the to holes

Next: forming the block by sanding
 

File in the groove for the metal fitting and drill in the hole for the axis of the sheave.

The fitting with its eyelet. 1mm brass soldered with silver

The finished block. The sheaves are made from 8mm aluminum

some pics of the rigging jobs.
 
the shrouds

 
The two back stays
 

 
 

 
Best regads Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Hartmut
 
Nice!  Very nice, in fact!  I especially like the block that you've made.  Talk about a 'work of art'....
 
Cheers. 
 
Patrick

Aye, Mates,
some pics from the last weeks. Next job is the modeling of the mast.
 
first parts to make were the chainplates. 2mm brass square tube. The eyes  are silver soldered.
 

 
The full channel
 

 
To turn the lower mast I had to extend the machine bottom of the lace.
 

 
The masthound.  Making this octagonal part by sanding on the milling machine.
 

 

 
The throat halliyard block . pearwood and aluminium
 

 
The lower mast
 

 
 
Next part: the bow sprit flagg stuff. A nice piece to make.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 
 
 

Great little jig. I will have to keep that idea in mind for the future.
 
Russ

Hey Frank. 
 
Nice work on on the ladder and jig!  
 
Cheers. 
 
Patrick
 

Hello One and All,
 
It's been almost a year since I last visited my log and it's about time it was resurrected. 
 
Life has it's ups and downs and unfortunately I have been on a bit of a down, without going into any detail I basically lost me mojo.
 
The boat has been completed and I will be posting the remainder of the progress pics very shortly.
 
Thanks to all who have enquired after my well being and showed concern, it's really very heart warming.
 
Watch this space guys.
 
mobbsie
 
 

Cog or me? The rigging is a lot harder on this as it's so fragile. My endeavour made far more sense. 

Thank you Fernando. With a pre-coloured Card kit the hardest part is getting the joins to fit together with the minimum of gaps. A wooden kit has a much bigger margin for error.
 
The three Main Turrets, which are all identical. Here are most of the card parts for one turret - the base on the left has already been folded and glued :

 
Before cutting out the turret top I cut the two slots for the barrels. I used my punch to do the rounded ends first, then a scalpel to join them :


 
The movable barrel base. I strongly suggest that anyone making this kit, or something similar, to actually get them to work freely. This allows you to move the barrels up or down when fitting the railings later :

 
The barrel "boots" fitted to the turret base. The 1.0mm brass tubing barrels haven't been glued in yet, as they would get in the way of future work :

 
Next step was to fit the turret sides :


 
The turret ops cut out. Most of the edges are bevelled :


 
 
Continued in next post .....

Nicely done Alan.  I wouldn't have thought of that way to use the insulin needles.  I couldn't imagine drilling .03mm then glueing them in!  Maybe I can try out your technique. 
 
I'm sure you're right that if I use the jig for a while I'll get more proficient with it.  
 
With your density of rivets I'm impressed that you made 2 different impressions - it would be for yourself not the viewer I think!

Doug,
 
Soft woods, such as basswood (one of the softest) and pine are very difficult to stain effectively. The wood fibers are less dense, and are very inconsistent. They soak up the stain, and because of the inconsistency in density, takes the stain differently throughout and tends to create a blotchy appearance.  I can see that in your photos.
 
Pre-stain, or Pre conditioners (minwax makes a good product) helps with soft woods since it saturates the fibers. After it dries, subsequent coats of stain will therefore adhere more consistently.  Conditioners are basically clear, but will add some darkening.
 
I must caution you however, no preconditioners are going to fully remedy the look of a soft wood when it is stained. Unlike hardwoods, such as pear, cherry, or boxwood, where stain enhances the look of the wood, staining softwoods almost always "changes" the look of the wood.
 
I am not suggesting that you strip off the basswood and replace with expensive hardwoods (although some many modelers have done that with the Syren), but you might think about painting it.
 
As far as adding conditioner after staining, you might want to try that after you sand down the surface as it appears you are doing now. Apply a couple of coats of conditioner and restain. It might help, but then again, it might look similar to your first effort. At this point, I would suggest that you experiment on a section of scrap planks first to see what you come up with.
 
Good luck.  Your ship looks great so far. The gun ports and sweeps are spot on.  That is not easy to do.

Incredible work, Nils!
I think that your model can be studied for hours, so that we can see all these details!
Congratulations!

Best Regards!
Igor.

Good morning Nils, we have not actually moved yet we take possession on 23rd of this month. The Albertic is on hold until I get set up in the new space. Moving is going to be a challenge and I am sorting and reducing at the moment. I want the new shop to be set up and as efficient as Gaetan's shop when I am done. One can dream.....
 
Michael

Caught up with your progress Kevin. She's beginning to look like a ship. Nice work.
 
Cheers,

Part 35 – Forward Companionway
 
Kathryn has a small hatch leading to the area that used to contain the forward berths, shown in the following photo.
 
                        
 
The HAER drawings show a metal ladder leading to the forward berths.  This ladder (as well as the forward berths) no longer exists, but in keeping with the details shown in the HAER drawings, the ladder will be added to the model (since the berths already have been built).
 
The ladder is 13.5” wide, and the distance between rungs is also 13.5”.
 
The sides of the ladder were constructed using 1/8” x .024” brass strip stock.  The rungs are made of 3/64” round stock.
 
Preparing the ladder required a jig to ensure that the holes for the rungs were inline and properly spaced.  A length of Corian was used for the jig.
 
First a groove .015 deep and 1/8” wide was milled in the Corian. 
 
                        
 
The brass strip was inserted into this groove, and was held in place by miniature machinist clamps.
 
                        
 
Holes were drilled .042” apart.  A pilot hole was first drilled using a centering drill – this prevented the drill from wandering on the hard brass surface.  The hole was then fully bored using a #55 drill.
 
                        
 
Once the sides were drilled, the jig was developed further.  Two parallel tracks were cut into the jig using a .025 end mill.  The tracks are .050” deep and .042” apart.  The depth allowed the ladder sides to sit vertically in the tracks, while still exposing most of the holes for the rungs.
 
Tracks for the rungs were milled perpendicular to the side tracks using a .046 end mill.  These tracks were milled .020” deep and .042” apart.
 
The following photos show the jig ready for the ladder components and in use.
 
                        
 
                        
 
After soldering the ladder sides were shaped using files and diamond bits on the rotary tool, and the ends of the rungs were trimmed using the same tools.
 
                        
 
After cleanup with 400 grit wet/dry paper and steel wool the ladder was blackened using JAX Brown-Black.
 
                        
 
This is a new product I had decided to try out.  The finish is more of a warm black (leaning towards brown) rather than the cool black (leaning towards blue) provided by JAX Pewter Black.
 
                        
 
The difference doesn’t show well in the photos, but in real life it’s noticeable.
 
As can be seen in the last photo, the hatch coamings were made off the model, and the hatch lid is deeper than the other hatch covers and is natural rather than painted.
 
The hatch coaming was glued in place, and the ladder was then epoxied in place.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The lid on the actual Kathryn is hinged, but I decided to make it a press fit on the model.
 
I still haven’t started the planning for the cabin yet.  I may decide to do some other work first.  I hope to make that decision in the next few days, and will cover that in the next post.
 
 

Part 34 – Headrails, King Plank, Accent Stripe
 
The components for the headrails were painted at the same time as the hull was painted, so installation was simply a matter of gluing and clamping.
 
                        
 
                        
 
Kathryn’s headrails are bolted to the hull, and the bolt heads are painted to match the hull.  Work-hardened copper wire was used as functional bolts to provide additional security for the headrails.  These bolts will be painted to match the hull.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The king plank consists of two planks that are 16.5” wide and 2.5” thick (the rest of the deck planks are 1.75” thick).  The Sampson post and the mast both pass through the king plank.
 
                        
 
On the model, the king plank is made of four separate pieces. 
 
First, the two pieces that are forward of the Sampson post were fitted, butting the Sampson post.
 
                        
 
Then the aft two pieces were notched to fit around the Sampson post and were butted against the forward hatch.
 
                        
 
The aft pieces were marked and cut for the hexagonal opening for the mast.
 
                        
 
                        
 
In the post on painting the model I mentioned that I was awaiting some 1/32” red pinstripe tape that would be used for the narrow stripe at the bottom edge of the wale.  This tape arrived, but I didn’t like the effect it provided.  
 
This narrow stripe is actually a bead cut into the bottom edge of the wale.  I was able to find .030” quarter-round styrene strips, which would be much more realistic.
 
The styrene strips were held onto a board using 2-sided tape and were brush-painted a crimson color.
 
                        
 
The quarter-round strip was glued to the hull using Ambroid glue applied sparingly with the tip of a needle. 
 
                        
 
The hatch coamings and the king plank were then painted white, and the base of the mast and the bolt heads on the headrail were also painted white.
 
                        
 
The following photos show Kathryn with the mast and bowsprit temporarily installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
One or two more small items can be completed before working on the cabin and deck planking. 
 
Thanks for the ‘Likes’, and for following the build log.

Hi Frank
 
Dang!  Kathryn's all painted and looks really, really nice.  Without a doubt, all of your hard prep is paying off.
 
Well done.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick