cog

Excellent blacksmithing job !

Got the same one somewhere in my stash. Looking good OC. I'll follow along, and see what surprises this kit has in store for the ignorant builder

Evening all,  hope everyone is ok  - keep up your spirits  we will get through this,     anyway  work continues  starting with the instrument panel,  this is a multi stage thing starting with the frame  - this has three sections of PE  to be attached to it, when  set I painted underneath and around the frame in Green, then I built and painted the compass, this was then glued in place  under the frame,   I then did a bit of shading with a pancil  and finished off by highlighting,    next off was to build the  gun sight  - this is a clear part in two sections, I glued both together  then painted around the frame.
 
OC.

Seat assembled - painted and weathered, then the belts  from the  enclosed pe  were cut off and glued into place,   then when set  I  did a couple of coats of brushed on flat coat,  then I placed the seat in the tub  and routed the rear harness  through the rear framework  and glued it in place.
 
OC.

A bit more done  -  I brush painted the cockpit green  and flat alum  also the  fuselage  sides.
 
OC.

So not much done today as gardening took priority. The Svestapol set has a heap of thin little steel railings that are used on her deck. Perfect for non slip footings that are used on the anchor storage area. 
the housings amidships, I’ve painted in the windows and masked them off. A day of primer then a base rust coat next. Hopefully I can make it look a bit better than the old rough kit it is now. 

Some further work started as I received the PE I had drawn up, which I then send off to have etched.  The sheet is .025mm thick
 
Cheek Blocks - once I have parted the the base (backing) and top piece s off, I give them a touch up with the file.  I then drill out/clean up the holes to 0.6 mm diameter, then fold down the side pieces.  I then thread the base, sheave and top piece onto some 0.6mm brass wire and place into one of the holes in the soldering jig ready for soldering.  Once silver soldered, they need to be cleaned up before blackening.




I have also completed the Bowsprit Cap, adding the upper side lugs (for the foot ropes out to the end of the Jibboom) and the horns for the manropes (lead aft to stanchions on the knight heads.  The two horns have holes through the knob for the manropes but cannot be seen in the photo. The lower side lugs are for the Bowsprit Guys/shrouds, and the bottom lugs for the martingale (forward hole) and the Bobstay.  The start of the process for making this is shown at post #528 earlier on this page.  the whole of this assembly has been silver soldered together for strength.  Solder was needed for holding the base of the pin in the drilled holes as the depth is only about 0.2 mm and CA would have marred the blackening process.


The size of these made polishing the brass very difficult, especially with such thin walls etc; so some scratch/filing marks remain.  These are very close up shots, that I have sharpened a bit which enhances the scratches; the marks cannot be seen to the naked eye from about 150mms (6 inches) away.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Must be (getting) old and senile, besides I wouldn't know what marriage is like, so I keep on asking
 
What's the ratio thinner:primer you use? 1:1 , 2:1 , 3:2 ... I find the Primer quite thick, and have already slightly diluted it for brushing

Tamiya primer? I have not found anything adherent enough to stick to PE but rattle can primer. Either Tamiya or Vallejo. The bottled Vallejo primer is a no go on PE. Bold move

Forgot to ask previously: Red base coat when chipping to make it look like rust?
 
I presume these were in the after market set. The kit's booms were probably to weak to keep the net up ...

No half hull and wall mounted ...

Wow

Nope, he thinks everybody is like him
 
Fnick, I used Vallejo rattlecan lacquers for the destroyers I have built, and for a BF 109G I used AK from a bottle, because I didn't have any satin left in a can. In the end it all boils down to preference.
 
P.s. I didn't like Valleyo bottled lacquers for use in an airbrush, with a conventional brush it worked as expected

Wow

Must be (getting) old and senile, besides I wouldn't know what marriage is like, so I keep on asking
 
What's the ratio thinner:primer you use? 1:1 , 2:1 , 3:2 ... I find the Primer quite thick, and have already slightly diluted it for brushing

Tamiya primer? I have not found anything adherent enough to stick to PE but rattle can primer. Either Tamiya or Vallejo. The bottled Vallejo primer is a no go on PE. Bold move

Forgot to ask previously: Red base coat when chipping to make it look like rust?
 
I presume these were in the after market set. The kit's booms were probably to weak to keep the net up ...

Lovely. I especially like the bull rail detail.

Good evening everyone,
 
I hope this find you all in good health.
 
This week there is not much of an update, with all that is going on in the world and the COVID-19 virus affecting every corner of the world my primary focus this week has been setting the admiral and I up with temporary offices in the house since we have both been directed to work from home until further notice.
 
What was accomplished this week was the completion of the forward rigging on the landing stage, the installation of the bull rails, navigation lights and the lifeboat booms.
 
 
Finished rigging of the landing stage.

 
Next was the installation of the bull rails. Another tedious task, although nothing compared to the placing all the battens on the Boiler and Texas decks. 
In order to access the battery for the LED's, I made a removable section so that I can remove the shipping crate to connect and replace the battery.

As a little touch of realism, I left a couple of the bull rails unpainted. I was going for the effect of the crew having to replace a few broken ones and not quite having the time to get them painted up. I used a little bit of graphite from a pencil lead shaved off on some fine sandpaper. Just rubbed on the bare wood with my finger to give them a slightly weathered look.

 
I completed the construction of the lifeboat booms and their brackets. as well as the cleats and boat rests.

I found these inexpensive micro drill bits on Amazon. They are extremely handy when drilling the small holes and cleaning out the sheath holes in the blocks. They are made for circuit boards but I found them more convenient than using a pin vise. 

 
Boom sockets in place.

 
Booms, cleats and boat rests in place and rigging ready to receive the lifeboats.

 
Lastly, the navigation lights have been painted up and partially installed. I wanted to run these with miniature LED's but I couldn't figure out a way to get the wiring ran where it wouldn't be visible, so I just painted them.

 
And here is an overall picture of where she sits now. Not too much more to go.

 
This week I will try to finish up on the lifeboats and get them installed. I also had an extra lifeboat that I had purchased from Model Expo several years ago that will make a nice work boat. I think I will assemble that one and add it to the top.
 
Thanks for all the likes and for looking.
 
-Brian

Good morning everyone,
 
This week marks one year that I have been working on this build. I must say my how it has flow by.
 
This week I worked on finishing up on the forward rigging of the chimneys, landing stage, searchlights, mast and boom. Completing this portion really starts to pull things together. It also creates lots of snag points and I am going to have to watch myself when working around these areas or I'm going to be rebuilding some pieces.
 
Tying off the top ropes on the chimneys.

 
 
Forward turnbuckles in place.

 
Last parts of the chimney rigging going in.

 
Searchlights mounted and the control ropes being ran.


 
Searchlight control ropes completed and upper mast and boom rigging.


 
I was also able to add a little details to the fore deck. I used some leftover dead-eyes to create the rollers on the fore deck fair leads.

 
Lastly, I finally finished the searchlights. I was looking for some old model car headlights to use for the lenses, but I wasn't able to find any that I had in my junk box. I had to ponder what to use for a while, I even tried drying out an old pair of contact lenses that I had, but these just didn't come out right. Then my daughter cam up with the brilliant idea to use googly-eyes for them.
 
This was what my first impression of using them looked like.
 
After having a little fun with this, and much to the disappointment of my granddaughter (she loved the eyes on the boat) I surgically removed the lenses from the googly-eyes, added some brass wire for the filament and then snapped the lenses into place. I couldn't have asked for a better fit.



 
That's all for now. I will work on getting the lower blocks and rigging to hold down the stage, the rope coils and the rest of the bull rails cut out and in place this week. I'll also try to figure out how to mount the lifeboat/work boat booms. Hopefully I will come up with some sort of solution. She is really starting to come together, I can see the finish line in sight.
 
As always, thanks for all the likes and thanks for looking.
 
-Brian

Nope, he thinks everybody is like him
 
Fnick, I used Vallejo rattlecan lacquers for the destroyers I have built, and for a BF 109G I used AK from a bottle, because I didn't have any satin left in a can. In the end it all boils down to preference.
 
P.s. I didn't like Valleyo bottled lacquers for use in an airbrush, with a conventional brush it worked as expected

Nope, he thinks everybody is like him
 
Fnick, I used Vallejo rattlecan lacquers for the destroyers I have built, and for a BF 109G I used AK from a bottle, because I didn't have any satin left in a can. In the end it all boils down to preference.
 
P.s. I didn't like Valleyo bottled lacquers for use in an airbrush, with a conventional brush it worked as expected

Must be the light in your house !!!

Good Morning Siggi;
 
Lovely work on the cannons. I congratulate you on your skills.
 
Regarding the number of cannons on board, it is not always necessary to count the foremost port on the gun-deck. This was frequently what is known as a bridle port, and was used to help attach the cat-block to the anchor ring once the anchor had been raised to the water's surface by the capstan. No cannon was fitted if the port was intended for this kind of use.
 
As you point out above, the manger is in the way of the cannon's recoil. In these circumstances, it would seem safe to assume the port is a bridle port, especially if it is smaller than the other ports.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

Nope, he thinks everybody is like him
 
Fnick, I used Vallejo rattlecan lacquers for the destroyers I have built, and for a BF 109G I used AK from a bottle, because I didn't have any satin left in a can. In the end it all boils down to preference.
 
P.s. I didn't like Valleyo bottled lacquers for use in an airbrush, with a conventional brush it worked as expected