coxswain

Hi Doug,
I have no reaction from the Aust-Agder-Museum yet, so I just send you the link for the
drawing of LEON.
https://digitaltmuseum.org/011012548813/ukjent
the ships bell
https://digitaltmuseum.org/011022541446/skipsklokke
a nice model
https://digitaltmuseum.org/021025899933/fartygsmodell
By the way, today I posted some photos of my own model. 
Matthias

In the meantime I have got the permission from Aust-Agder-Museum to use the Images, so here we go:
 

That photo was in Plank on Frame Models and I recall Underhill writing that it was taken very late in her life and that she had spars that were too long in the photo. 
 
Russ

I believe its just this famous photo......no copyright isues so its OK to post.
 

 
 

Good morning.

So now I'm into the ratlines. It's about a wash as to whether it is easier on the model of off the model. Notice that to get the mast to stay at the correct position, I had to use a couple of clothespins to stabilize it. Also, putting a white background behind the mast helps my aging eyes.
My opinion of ratlines is like forming the deadeyes (see page 2) "it's hours of great fun"
 

So with another hours worth of work, all the foremast shrouds are in place. Next step - ratlines.
 

I had the amended 3 and 0.8mm laser cut parts for third kit arrive yesterday, just before I had to go to work, so couldn't do anything with them until this morning. Everything is just quickly dry-fitted, no glue or pins at all. I have gone to town regarding the structural rigidity, no balsa filling blocks required for this! The decks fit into slots located on the inner sides of the bulkhead tabs, so no pins required for the edges and impossible for the edges of the decks to move, so deck line always follows the correct positions.
 
I am also trying out a new way to create a rabet, as you can see from the bow. This is a pre-prototype, it will not be used for building the model, it is just to check the critical hull assembly and making sure everything fits and interlocks as they should - and will be thrown away at some point..

OK, Speedy hull now complete.
 
I did have to reduce the length of the chainplates for the 5mm deadeyes by 2mm, as they should only be pinned to the main wale, so the ones shown are a little too low - but rectified for the kit.
 
Hand pumps finally in place, nice easy builds with PE parts, and the stove chimney is PE this time, to give the correct scale appearance. Everything is now glued down apart from the boat, which is simply pinned in place at this time. Boomkins are missing, but they will be added once bowsprit gammoning is in place (experience...)
 
I have also included half a dozen hatchets, which were used primarily to cut fouled rigging away.
 

Post 12
Cutting the Ports
The kit provides a combined capping strip/ gun port template (46) which has the port positions marked, along with the slots for the timber heads.

1640
These are very delicate strips and in my kit the front ends had broken away even before removal from the supporting fret. Even so they are a good idea, simplifies and takes all the hassle out of making a rail.
I always find the cutting out of ports a tricky business, but at least these are only half ports.

1641
To assist the process it is useful to have:-
 A square section strip the size of the port, with two grades of sandpaper stuck to two of the sides. I'm using an 8mm square section of Walnut.
A gauging strip with the 4mm and 6mm depths  cut out to mark and check progress.
A good quality narrow blade  razor saw, and scalpel for cutting and paring.

1639
Once the ports have been marked, Tamiya tape is used as guides for the vertical cuts.

1636
Always a relief when this job has been done.

1643
 With care things will go well, but watch the angles of the  vertical cuts across the top, they are not all square to the keel, but follow the curve of the bulwark.
 
B.E.
11/08/2019
 

Post 13
 Laying down some paint.
Having taken a minimalistic approach to paint on my Cheerful build, with this model I am going to broadly follow the paint scheme as indicated in the Alert Book.
I am using Vallejo Flat Red 031 for the internal paintwork, as I did with Cheerful.

1716(2)
This is a good point to coat the internal bulwarks and internal faces of the ports.

1719
Once the spirketting had been painted I added the Waterway using 1/32" Boxwood square stock.
 
For the stern and topsides  the suggested Humbrol Matt Blue(25) is a tad too dark for my taste.

1770(2)
I concocted my own mix based on the formula I used for Pegasus.
The base paint is Humbrol Matt 89 (Middle Blue) to which Matt 25 (Matt Blue) and  Matt 27 (sea Grey) and  are added.
The proportions are roughly 60% (89) 30% (25) 10% (27)

1769(2)
Still not entirely convinced that I've got the shade  right yet, but this is ok for a base coat.
 
Mouldings and rails
There are mouldings across the stern at Counter, Transom and Tafferal.

1721
I used 1/16th Boxwood strip for the purpose thinned down a little. These are much enhanced by scribing a simple relief using a razor blade cut pattern.

1718
For the Sheer rail which runs beneath the gun ports the kit indicates using plain 1mm x 1mm strip. I used a tad wider Boxwood stuff and as with the stern rails I scribed a profile on the face.
The kit  paint scheme indicates this be painted black, but I prefer to leave it bright.
 
I rather liked the look of treenails on my Cheerful model. After some thought I decided to add the treenails along the broadside above the wale.

1759(4)
Taking the arrangement from the Alert book drawings, I used a 0.6mm micro drill and filled the holes using a filler mix.
Not very distinct but that's how they should be.
A coat of wipe-on poly is applied to seal the surface.
 
B.E.
14/08/2019
 
 

Post 11
Planking above the wale
Above the wale I  have used Boxwood strip forming three strakes down to the wale top. At the aft end the planks are shaped to meet the lower side counter pieces.

1598(2)
I won't completely finish these Top sides off until I have cut the half ports along the bulwark.

1606
I then moved onto planking the internal bulwarks. For the Spirketing I used kit Pear wood strips,(1x3mm and 1x4mm)
Above this I used a Boxwood strip sanded back to the top line.

1607
The second layer of the Wales were then attached using 6x1mm Boxwood strip.
A rabbet is cut into the bow stem to take the forward end which is slightly reduced in thickness.
The plank requires a little heat bending to take the stress out of it and before fitting the three Hook and and Butt scarph joints are  represented by scribing into the surface.
I have followed the arrangement from the Goodwin Alert book.
Using Caldercraft metal black paint I applied a thinned coat to seal the wales, but these will need to be finished much further down the road.
As suspected the scarf joints are barely visible, and probably not worth the effort.

1604

1605
 I added the waterways along the deck, cut from some Boxwood sheet.

1609
Starting to look a little better now, my next  job will be to cut the half ports along the bulwark, before planking the deck.
 
B.E.
08/08/2019

More deck detail at the stern.  I need to find something to "decorate" that blank white wall above the railing.
 
Regards,
David

To those who gave likes, thank you and thanks for stopping by.
 
Carl and Mark, thanks for your kind feedback.
 
Steve
 
Beneficial occupancy.

The port lifeboats are attached to the davits.
 

Port davit rigging started.  As with the starboard side the boat rigging includes the cargo blocks and hooks, and four manropes on a cable hung between each pair of davits.

All port boats are rigged.

The awning is permanently set in its deck shoes.  Lashing of the perimeter poles to the railings has started.

The ship has reached beneficial occupancy, an architecture term that signifies the point in construction when the building is not quite finished but is ready for use.  More pics below.  I’ll get better ones after the shipyard gets a major cleaning.  I’m turning my attention to the upcoming test sail.

Rudder. You start from the photoetched part that needs to be bent to create a "hook". I have then silversolder the edges and smooth it with file. Blackening and the irons are ready. 

I have added the eyebolts and decoration of the transom

And starting preparations of the deck furniture

Some more Iron works. 
1. Rolling chock (with testing tack) 

2. Fastening of the stern-post to the keel

3. Horse (it will be blackend later) 

Good morning.

Mass production of family portraits of metal parts

I'm beginning to be a believer. Futtuck shrouds were MUCH easier to do off the model.

And yes, even the topmast shrouds are easier off the model. But I'm holding off any final comment until I see how it is to do the ratlines.

Other photos from the Annapolis Naval Academy Museum.  Some of these models were 5 feet long.  At least one is considered to be one of the oldest models in existence, built in 1650!  If you are in Maryland and get the opportunity, try to visit the museum.  I tried to keep the placard photos in line with the ship, but one or two may be out of order.
 


































































 









 
 

 

I went to Annapolis to visit the Naval Academy Museum.  They have quite a collection of models and other items.  Some of the models are as old as the original ships.  They have a model of a walking beam engine.  It is displayed in a position where it is difficult to get a shot of the back of it.  Also, it is attached to an electric motor and gear so you can see how it worked.  That part was out of commission, but there is a youtube video of it.
 
Here's a video of the walking beam engine I took.  If it doesn't work, message me.
 
Walking beam video
 
Here's a few pictures I took while I was there.





 











 
 

Post 10
Reworking the Transom:-
I have already departed from the kit arrangement by incorporating lower side counter timbers.

1453
My next step is to glue the stern transom pattern (49) this also is planked with thin box strip. I think the stern pattern will stand a slight beefing up and the Box wood cladding will do the job.

1462
Initial trial fitting of the transom  showed that there was no margin along the bottom of the gun ports inboard, to allow for the deck planking, which would otherwise rise above the framing.
The one clear photo in the build guide shows such a margin, but that is without the 1mm planking applied to the platform deck above the counter.
I had to tweak the transom piece by adding a strip along the bottom to raise it slightly above the deck level.
Once this is done it is clearer to see how the upper side timber (75) which incorporates the boom crutch, can be accommodated.

1463
With the Transom piece fitted, I now have a solid edge to work the Upper side timbers.
I think the inboard framing detail of the kit Transom configuration is a little sparse, having only the four vertical counter timbers, which are either side of the stern ports.

1460
Using Boxwood strip I added the transom beam which runs across the top of the gun ports, and a Tafferal capping strip.

1464

1459
Fixing Capping rails to the transom involves an eclectic mix of  clamping items.
 
These small additions, replicate more accurately the stern framing of the cutter, and imho greatly improve the look of the model, or will once I've fettled it.

1476
The modifications require making new side pieces including the crutch. The original piece is shown in the centre.

1481
These are attached to the transom  and will be fine tuned  on the model.

1482
A second layer lower Side piece is glued to the hull. These are quite intricate pieces that butt up to the upright and curve and twist down to meet the wale aft edge.

1486
Still very much wip but  it is progressing as I hoped, and with the structure now there I can decide on the paint scheme and add the second layer wale timbers.
 
B.E.
05/08/2019
 
 

Time to start the rigging. Normally, I step all the lower masts and add the shrouds and stays, then work my way up. However, the instructions say to build the masts and rig the upper parts before putting mast to the deck, claiming it is easier. I will try it on the foremast and see if I like the method. Here is the foremast, finished and ready for some thread.

 
 

A very quick update just to show how process of ceiling planking goes - sorry for pics quality - took some by mobile on-the-run :-) You may notice that some gunports haven't been faired  and of course  there's much sanding ahead. But inner sides are beginning to take shape and it warms my heart a bit ) Priming and painting is on the horizon.