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Tony Hunt

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About Tony Hunt

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    Sydney, NSW

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  1. Great stuff Steven. Another fascinating build, it's been a pleasure to follow along.
  2. Valeriy, perhaps this can be our next project together after I finish the pearling luggers book!
  3. That is a work of art Valeriy. Really extraordinary detail. Thanks for sharing it with us!
  4. Lovely work on that propeller. Now all it needs is a bit of tuning to ensure there isn't too much vibration when it's turning at normal revs....
  5. Congratulations on your focus and tenacity across such a long build. The finished model looks superb. All the more impressive that it's been achieved at 1/160 scale.
  6. I didn't seal the ends, it was already dry when I got it and it's been kept dry ever since. If it's a fungal stain I think it will be long dead by now, it doesn't seem to have softened the wood. I'll certainly try to quarter saw as much as possible, it doesn't look like it will be a problem to do so. I ended up gluing the block to an offcut of fibreboard, using Weldbond, which is pretty strong. This made it easy to run the block through the saw. For the longer pieces, still to come, I'll use the same technique but I think I'll make a slightly heavier sled using thin ply as the base, and glue a hefty block of pine as a butt stop at the rear of the workpiece to give it more support going into the blade.
  7. I agree with Wefalck, it's a superb museum that hasn't lost its way. The models on display are numerous and magnificent. An excellent place to spend a few hours. Or days.
  8. Well, I took the plunge and cut a shortish piece off one end, then had a crack at milling it into model-sized lumber. It went surprisingly well, I'm happy (and relieved!) to say. The thin piece was cut to ~3mm thick on the table saw, then brought down to 2.5mm using my little thickness sander. The boxwood seems to have a nice hard, tight grain, mostly the expected yellow colour but with a grey streak through it, quite pretty! It has that unusual honey-like smell that boxwood seems to have when freshly cut. So far, so good!
  9. I just found this build log. It's looking great so far! I'm just down the road, in North Rocks. I like the Triumph in your avatar too - we'll have to go for a ride together sometime!
  10. Thanks Eric, I appreciate the feedback. There's always more to learn. I certainly need to get a flat edge somewhere to start from, and you're quite right, loss to kerf isn't really that much of an issue in the grand scheme of things. If I get some time today I'll make a few preliminary cuts and see how it goes.
  11. I do have a chainsaw but the kerf is quite large, so I'd lose a lot of valuable wood, and the log isn't all that large in cross-section, a bit over 4" x 2" along most of its length. I only have a Proxxon hobby bandsaw; while it does have enough depth of cut I think it would struggle with something as dense as boxwood. I don't want to kill the motor!
  12. Thanks for your concern Cathead and mnl. I have a very healthy respect for the power of my tablesaw, that's for sure. I do plan to use a sled to rip it (and crosscut it!), at least to put a planar surface onto it. I've also considered using my belt sander with a really coarse (40 grit) belt on it to do this, I might give both a try. Good feedback, anyway, the voice of caution is always worth repeating!
  13. Many years ago I acquired this nice big log of boxwood at a woodworking show (it was being sold as a woodturning piece) and it's been sitting in my wood collection ever since, so it's well and truly dry and seasoned. As you can see, it's a bit over a metre long (that's a bit over a yard to my American friends!) and has a few minor curves along its length, plus the stub of a decent-sized side branch at one end. I think it's time to mill it into model-making pieces, but I'm only going to get one go at this so I thought I'd take advantage of the collective wisdom before I put blade to bark! I'll be using a 10" table saw fitted with a thin kerf planer blade, so hopefully I won't waste too much as sawdust. My initial thought was to convert it into shorter and straighter lengths, crosscutting it at the red lines for example. Then ripping it into thin boards. I'd quite like to snip off a short piece first and "take a look inside", perhaps starting with one of the shorter pieces at the top and bottom, which might contain some interesting curved grain for use in parts such as the bilge sections of frames, or curved stems. Should I try to quarter-saw it? Will it make much difference with something as close-grained as boxwood? So many questions, and quite a bit of apprehensiveness! What do you think? Thoughts and suggestions all welcome! Cheers Tony
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