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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. realworkingsailor
    A decal needs a glossy surface in order to adhere properly, regardless of the underlying texture or material. Testors Glosscote works well, but any clear gloss finish will work. Otherwise, follow the instructions on the bottles. If you’ve never used micro sol/set: I typically will apply a small puddle of micro set (blue bottle) to the area on the model to allow the decal to float off the backing paper. This will help prevent air bubbles. Soak up any excess with a tissue, position the decal and gently dab with a cotton swab or hobby sponge. Allow to dry. When you apply the micro sol (red bottle), the decal can wrinkle. Alarmingly! This is normal. Do not touch the decal! The glossy surface will allow the decal to settle back down and conform to any contours (like the seams between planks). If there’s any air bubbles or silvering, when dry, prick the decal with the tip of your hobby knife or a pin and apply more micro sol. Repeat the process until all bubbles are removed. Apply one more gloss coat to seal the decal, this should make all the decal edges disappear, followed by whatever other finishes you desire. Andy
  2. realworkingsailor
    The problem is the possibility of UXO remaining on board. A risky and pricey salvage. Andy
  3. realworkingsailor
    It sure opens up a lot of options for those who don’t have a full airbrush setup! Wish I’d known about this a couple of years ago, before spending a fortune getting some Scalecoat paint rattle cans shipped up from the US to Canada for my railway car project(s). Not many online retailers (or postal services) will ship rattle cans locally or internationally. I’ve only seen UPS that will accept a shipment like that (enough said right there, lesson learned, never again!). Andy
  4. realworkingsailor
    I agree! I’m curious how it’s cleaned, since as a hobbyist, one can tend to bounce from colour to colour frequently (also seeing as most hobby jobs use less than an ounce of paint at a time). Andy
  5. realworkingsailor
    Would this help: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=6 ? Andy
  6. realworkingsailor
    Ahh, got it, ok. 👍 Andy
  7. realworkingsailor
    Well, that’s a double whammy for me. For primarily financial reasons, I’m not an NRG member either. Would like to some day, but right now, can’t. Andy
  8. realworkingsailor
    Out of simple curiosity, is there another way to notify the MSW membership of an outage outside of Facebook? I’m sure there are more than a few members (myself included) that want nothing to do with that site. Can another method be setup? (“Sign up here to receive email notifications”?). Rather than pestering the hard working admins with countless messages asking the same question. Andy
  9. realworkingsailor
    Saw this today, thought you might be interested: https://apple.news/A9jAAwtorQLWmWpPU-oZE1Q Andy
  10. realworkingsailor
    Looks good, but ya need some dunnage! (And lashings!) That load of pipes looks like it’s ready to cut loose in the hold and smash through your fine handiwork! If you really want to go all out: https://www.walthers.com/products/accessories/super-detailing-parts/rolling-stock/freight/load There’s a lot of railway car specific stuff (bulk loads and the like), but if you dig through, there are some other interesting items to fill your holds with. (If you use their dealer locator, Walthers has many locations in the UK, there should be someone near where you live). Andy
  11. realworkingsailor
    An unfinished past build can still come in quite handy! The benefits of keeping (hiding?) the leftovers! Your progress looks great! Andy
  12. realworkingsailor
    Bored? Nonsense! It’s just as interesting to see your build as it is to see those full frame wooden model thingys that others are building elsewhere around here. Besides, for me, there’s also a strong sense of familiarity, since I’d spent nearly twenty years of my life mucking around in very similar thingys. Keep up the great work! Andy
  13. realworkingsailor
    I should have been more clear, I meant the engine kit. Andy
  14. realworkingsailor
    What are the finished dimensions of the kit you have? It looks pretty good. The big slow speed marine diesels could be upwards of three stories high, so it might work for you. You could always scan it and scale it down on your computer to the size you want. Looks like there are a few Walthers distributors in the UK: https://www.walthers.com/storelocator Andy
  15. realworkingsailor
    Haha! Easy big guy! Found this intriguing offering: http://www.dhsdiecast.com/mobile/Marine-Engine-Load/productinfo/IMC33-0182/ It’s in 1:50 scale. Otherwise, Norscot offers a bunch of CAT engine models at larger scales (1:35, 1:12) that may also work as a main engine, with a little tweaking and a repaint. Not the cheapest, I’m afraid, but maybe workable. Andy
  16. realworkingsailor
    Looking nice! Will you be detailing the engine room? I had a couple of thoughts thought to help you get started: https://www.walthers.com/emd-567-prime-mover-kit https://www.walthers.com/refinery-piping-kit-509d60 https://www.walthers.com/piping-kit The first is a 1:87 styrene kit for an engine and generator (you’d need three), and the other two are a collection of pipe works and other fittings (valves, unions etc) that you can assemble as needed. If you feel like diving down that particular rabbit hole 😁 Andy Edit: Found this too: https://www.walthers.com/tanker-truck-loading-rack-kit-7-x-3-1-2-x-3-3-16-quot-17-8-x-8-9-x-8-1cm It has a bunch of pumps and other useful bits.
  17. realworkingsailor
    Nice idea to show some cargo too! There’s a trick model railroaders use for bulk loads where they start with a block of insulation foam (the rigid pink stuff). The block is then cut to the size of the opening and sculpted to resemble the shape of a heap of cargo. After painting the appropriate colour, a layer of “cargo” (iron ore, coal, etc) is then glued onto the “heap”, and then sealed (dullcote or whatever). Saves weight and “cargo” materials. I wonder if perhaps cornmeal might work better than sand to represent grain. The colour would be perfect for grain. As long as it’s well sealed it shouldn’t cause any problems. Andy
  18. realworkingsailor
    The hatch crane looks great! When you’re finished, will you show it doing its job? Or just parked? (Seeing as I see an open hatch) Andy
  19. realworkingsailor
    I wouldn’t worry about the wavy lines. As you said, things will straighten out as you build. It looks great so far! It’s a shame the kit isn’t offered in thicker card stock or even styrene sheet, if only to help combat the wavy paranoia. Andy
  20. realworkingsailor
    I wouldn’t drink it or take a bath in it… Most (all) styrene cements are not healthy products. No matter the company, every type of plastic cement should be used in a well ventilated area, and proper precautions should be taken to avoid skin and eye contact, inhalation of the vapours or ingestion. Andy
  21. realworkingsailor
    When it was still available, Tenax 7R was a great plastic cement. I’ve since had success with Squadron Plastic Weld. It’s not quite as aggressive as Tenax, but it still works well. Unless you’re using Plastruct products, avoid their Plastic Weld glue. It’s designed for ABS styrene, and can be a little too much for other, softer types of styrene. I have some and I also find it tends to gum up (and then solidify) my fine applicator brush. Andy
  22. realworkingsailor
    One more quick question: What does your current cockpit look like when surrounded by your high polish metal exterior finish? As is, it looks pretty nice. Andy
  23. realworkingsailor
    It begs the question, do it correct as it was, and risk losing the details in the blackness, or bend the truth a little to show them off? (Fully appreciating that you want to keep things as accurate as possible) If you have a spare cockpit (or cockpit pieces) leftover from another project, maybe you could try a side by side to see? Andy
  24. realworkingsailor
    Have you considered maybe dry brushing a little silver on the wearing surfaces and panel edges? Areas like the forward edge of the seat, for instance, and anywhere the pilot would have rubbed off the black paint through the routine actions of flying. Andy
  25. realworkingsailor
    Good luck with your re-(re-re?)start, Kevin! Andy

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